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Have to agree with others... Theres nothing about it that 8 find particularly attractive or inspiring... It's certainly not a car id aspire to own... Unlike some older Jags.

I don't think Jaguar is deluding themselves that the car is elegant, I'm pretty sure it is simply making an incredibly bold statement. I don't get most modern art, or say, Captain Beefheart, but there are many who do, perhaps that's what Jaguar is aiming for. They are not looking for big sales, that's for sure. There will be crossover tech from this car and some of the innovative engineering solutions will be carried over to their other upcoming cars, so there might be a little more method in their madness than just to shock everyone. Personally, I don't think the world cares if there is a Jaguar or not, it hasn't cared for many years, regardless of the excellent cars it's made over the last few decades. I'll wait a few years and see if the gamble pays off. One thing for certain, I'm super excited to see one in the flesh, which in itself speaks well to the interest this car has evoked.

In comparison the Jag looks like all four sides of it have been driven into a wall at speed... Just shows how bad the Jag design language is IMHO

yes, only handbrake cable on drum goes on lower part od axle and disc brake on upper part, but cable can be fixed with strong ZIP ties, that is not a problem. and disc version have 2 disc bracket holes. you can ignore them.

Not sure, but in this thread I appear to have looked up by VIN the suggested replacement part for a car with drum brakes and got the part number that's described as for disc brakes, so they may have rationalised part numbers. Can look up your suggested PN if you can tell me VIN. Typing at same time as Jack25 above, whose info is usually excellent, so have a read of his link. ^

That Jag at least had some elegance to it, even if it was derided at the time. The Type 01 has none as far as I can see. As for Jags not selling that probably has more to do with pricing, specs, reliability and comparisons against contemporary opposition marques, as opposed to design?

I wanted to close the topic after a good few miles and time, hopefully someone might find this useful - I believe my car is fixed by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I got this Bosch one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235945871878 Fiddly but pretty straightforward to DIY replace too. Thanks again to this forum, and the people on this thread 👍

I was hoping the new Jaaaaag was going to look like below ie like the Alfa Romeo concept has come out like...

@imart143 Thank you so much - that’s exactly the answer I was hoping for! I’ll be ordering the Diederichs one (as I understand it’s the best aftermarket option) along with the other 'while you’re in there' parts this week. I’ll post an update once the job is done.

Buy the brake disck rear axle and you will need these parts, https://darksidedevelopments.com/products/rear-brake-drum-to-disc-conversion-for-skoda-fabia-5j-mk2.html (the fitting point in the frame are the same even for the shock and spring), maybe consider to fit polyurethane bushing in the rear subframe to increase the handling. Let me know if you want to upgrade the brake setup to fit 256mm vented rear discs (and to increase front to 288 or 312mm)

C, D, E, Mk2.

Coming up to 13 years of ownership from new. The 1.2 tsi Roomie apart from servicing and replacing consumables has only needed an offside headlamp and registration plate bulb. I have had no dash warning lights or any other gremlins. The paint is still in showroom shine and interior showing no signs of wear. I am so reluctant to change it..

Sorry, but that is BS. Especially mentioning Seat here, together with Cupra they are very noisy cars. Perhaps something is broken in your Octavia so you find it more noisy, but in general it is the same as similar class VW cars. No modern car remembers settings which EU regulation mandates them to forget. But unlike others, at least in newer models Skoda offers a button to quickly return to previous settings. Not the case in Octavia yet, but show me any other car from around 2020 which is better in this regard?

Current/suggested part number confirmed by VIN as 6Q0500051BB. Wondering if in that other thread the OP maybe gave me a VIN of a car he knew had disc rear axle, as that was their goal. Anyhoo, looks like the others have solved the info shortage well ahead of me. 🙂

Might also be a good idea to ask in the Octavia 3 forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/

Presuming the switching between lobes is achieved by solenoids (as on an ACT engine) they would be visible on top of the engine after removing the plastic cover? If they are present then the fault code suggests either a wiring problem, or a failed solenoid. Time to investigate with the plastic cover off I reckon.

I've appreciated the guides, advice and straight up kindness from members here during my time on the forum (mostly lurking!). My Mk1. Octavia TDI and the Fabia were amazing cars! I was quite let down by the mk2 VRS but still kept an open mind moving forwards. (It still had it's own charm when I wasn't busy fixing something!) Unfortunately someone has hit my wife's little Fabia which has now been written off. Replaced with.... a mk1 Nissan leaf! (I did try and get her to go for a mk3 VRS but the budget just couldn't stretch!). My Octavia will be gone by the end of the month as well as a gearbox/differential bearing is acting up and I couldn't justify the cost. I loved the Enyaq but it just wasn't financially sensible for us so I've settled on an old zafira tourer shudder (the way I feel AND the clutch before you ask!). I feel a little bit sad to be moving away from Skoda.. but hope to return one day when I can eventually afford (and am allowed to keep!) an Enyaq or some other form of skoda EV.

Eeew - that's unfortunate for you... a Mk1 Leaf AND a Zafira... you have my sympathies

Mine currently reads 4.6 -4.8 70ah size.

From VWHub -

Meant to add it may be a failing ignition switch. Did read that there is a plastic bit/switch that lets the car know if theres a key in ignition. If it sticks the car assumes theres still a key in so doesnt shut down properly and beeps to warn you about locking key in car. Read it on a VW forum so may not be aplicable to mk2 octavia Maybe someone on here could help. They said try a squirt of wd40 into ignition to see if it frees up plastic bit, Alasdair

Cant hear chime sound on clip but it may be the siren battery thats failing and car is continuosuly trying to charge it hence drain over 3-4 days. You could pull the fuse for the siren back up battery. From memory think its fuse 35 in side of dash and see if it makes a difference. Might be worth a scan with vcds to see if it pulls up any random faults. Alasdair

Definitely a possibility, the engine I have is the earlier EA888.3 (as a few components were upgraded after 2017 i believe) but that could be a very possible outcome, its good to keep it in mind thankyou

or DSG car

Thank you for this. My wife is now trying to stop 'riding' the clutch. Hopefully it won't need another new clutch in another 30,000 miles!

Yes demolished old 8 x 6 shed and thought about hiring a skip, but no 3 trips to the local tip and its all gone Good old Roomster.

Yes, that's a good idea, thank you very much!

I’ve posted the link just to let you know which parts are needed, probably if you look for the various part needed on different platforms the final prince would be cheaper

difference is only on places where handbrake cable mountings are welded.. new aftermarket parts have probably disc and drum parts welded.

Thank you very much!

I’m pretty sure this isn’t possible on facelift models.

Plenty of scope for the first keeper to take a few lives out of the clutch in 8K - compounding that with 'riding' it occasionally in your ownership would easily finish it off. An expensive bad habit. Possibly the weight of the Karoq clutch is lighter than the Octavia's was, and even only a slight, inadvertent pressure on the Karoq's clutch pedal was causing excess wear.

I'd love to see one in Vanta Black. Batman would run scared of it (assuming he could see it)

Good job!! :)

Some are good apparently Mine was not. Secondhand car dealer “full Skoda service history” Nothing on the digital “Erwin”system. Battery checked by AA ok but failed /replaced by main dealer after 300 miles. Plus DSG oil change as insurance (main dealer said filter good “for life “ (Maybe due to inaccessibility issues (around PHEV)). Chiller unit discovered compromised after third diagnostic attempt at main dealer (.£1463 quoted). The infotainment/connectivity was a nightmare - so main dealer upgraded to “1914” (?) so that is recognised as ok (now). In my opinion I wouldn’t recommend an early second hand Octavia 80K PHEV Mk iV to my worst enemy however cool they look (and they do). The inaccessibility due to cramped bonnet space, the vulnerability of the fragile tech associated with that sophisticated simply (too) clever (by half) engineering and as second hand the more than likely lack of any warranty makes such a purchase a money pit. Take away the PHEV aspect giving more engine bay accessibility, less fragile control system also the problemic “Covid year(s) issues the MkiV is probably a worthy successor to its previous iterations.

I do like that colour. One of my neighbours has it.

Hi I'm in the midst of buying a car during an approved used event that's currently running. My intention was buying outright but the dealership suggested taking it on PCP in order to benefit from £750 towards the finance. They said if I cancel after the first 3 payments and pay the remaining balance outright then I'm still eligible for the £750 but won't be penalised with years of interest. My extensive AI conversation about buying the car suggested that under consumer rights I can actually cancel within a 14-day cooling off period and still not be penalised. Does anyone know which is accurate? Is the whole 3 month thing just down to a commission payment for the salesperson or do I actually need to pay the 3 months to keep the £750 bonus? Thanks!

Deal direct with Skoda financial services not the Dealership , The key thing is you are not cancelling the agreement you are withdrawing from it. Once I received the figures I was had 30 days to make the payment.

I withdrew from my Škoda finance agreement last year after 11 days (within the 14 day period) on a 3 month old used Karoq I had to pay £72.38 interest ( £6.58 per day) but retained all the incentives that were given at that time, £250 Škoda Contribution, 2 years roadside assistance and two services.

This thread has contains a nice guide from one user for how to do it and where you can download the FW files from... From memory there was another dedicated thread to this update but I can't seem to find it. The most important is to know the firmware you have and how many steps you need to get to the latest one. You also need a tool like OB11 or VCDS which can send the confirmation code after the firmware update... If I understand correctly, this last part is not mandatory but it will remove a permanent fault from the infotainment unit about the update.

Best solution ever: Cut the original plastic retainer prong. Trim flat. Use a temperature controlled soldering iron to insert an M4 hot melt knurled insert. Set the temperature to 250⁰C. Keep on side a water sprayer full of water and tested for proper spaying. Melt the insert using as little vertical force as possible in the position of the prong you cut. When the plastic gives in, prepare to spray water. When the insert is flat with the surface, spray plenty of water on it to cool it. Use an M4 black Torx screw to attach the lanyard.

It's a RSC608, but I think this model was updated a few years ago.

Yeh, that’s a combined bump stop/ dust cover thing, but I was really referring to the not-in-shot double wedge rubber guys that clamp the damper to the body and give the swivel compliance. I also need new boots to go on top but fear I’ll need to mould my own from silicone or something.

I took delivery of a ex demo SE l Edition DSG 1.5 tsi on Monday. Traded in my 2018 Suberb for it. Must admit having second thoughts now

I have finally sorted out my problem. After trying numerous things which resulted in various messages on the screen about timing out/ failed to connect/ try again later etc. I created a new email address, which I will use exclusively for the car. I then went to the Skoda ID portal logged in and changed the email address to the new one. Next I went to the My Skoda app deleted everything. Then uninstalled the app. Reinstalled the app with the new email address and password. Went to the car deleted all user information, then registered with the new email details. It then allowed me to become primary user and all my Skoda connect details were again available Glad that I didn't pay Skoda the £200+ that they wanted to sort out the problem.

Hi all Long time lurker first time poster. My mk1 Fabia estate with drum brakes needs a new rear axle. Can I fit a used one from a mk2? They are easier to find, and seem to be in better condition cosmetically. If I find a mk2 axle with drum brakes, is it a relatively straight swap? I need to replace mine due to rust, I'm worried it won't get through it's next MOT, or worse, will fail in use! Thanks

Fitted the new axle yesterday and all seems fine. I could not find any difference between the one I removed and the replacement. The one I removed was scary rusty and in far worse shape than I thought. Thanks again. If I can find a way to upload photos I will share the horror.

Thanks so much. I now have a new axle which I will attempt to fit next week. I can't see any part numbers on it, but it appears to be visibly identical to the one on my car. The new axle is off a 2013 car.