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So they are not driving to their summer cottages like I am?

Whilst all of these examples suggest premature failure, the life of a turbo can very much be influenced by driving style, driving habits, mechanical sympathy and service intervals. Lots of stop /start driving can expose the turbo to more actuation's compared to cruising down a motorway, so low mileage can't always be used as a clear cut reason for complaint. Driving habits vary hugely, some people accelerate hard all of the time. "I bought a vRS so I intend to drive it like one". Others don't. Mechanical sympathy, allowing the turbo to cool before turning off the engine (on models where the oil pump doesn't run on after the ignition is turned off). Disabling stop/start to keep the engine ticking over and the oil circulating. Not accelerating hard until the engine oil is up to temperature. Not driving fast through deep puddles etc. etc. The turbo is lubricated by the engine oil. Saving £100 every couple of years by following the long life service regimes (2 years or 20,000 miles), instead of the fixed intervals (12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever is reached first) might sound appealing but fresh oil replaced more regularly extends the life of the turbo. Can you be sure your garage is using the correct specification of oil too? So, whilst it can be easy to blame the manufacturer (and I'm no Skoda fanboy, they've dropped some proper clangers in the past) there are lot of variables that can shorten the life of a turbo that we, as the drivers, are able to directly influence. One of the examples above is on an 8 year old car, its worth noting the design life of a car rarely exceeds 10 years / 100,000 miles. One of the risks of running an older car outside of warranty. As a final note, a new reconditioned turbo for a MkIII Octavia should be well under £1,000 fitted and inc. VAT.

Young Children? My wife's little legs would like those as well.

This is correct. £10 for a passenger wristband and you can jump in any car the driver will let you! Helmet also £10 to hire from MSV for the day, but you can often borrow one from someone not going out. Thanks for all teh bookings so far. November seems ages away, but we already have 50 out of 66 cars booked.

i catched free download link here on BriSkoda, but it's removed :( dead: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/444123-workshop-manual-english-edition/ alive: https://www.drive2.com/l/493938282543972532/

After 29 years, 1 Estelle 120L, 2 Favorits, 1 Felicia, 6 Octavias and 1 Yeti I find myself without a Skoda :-( I've been tempted by the dark side and bought a 2018 Nissan Leaf. Quality and finish are not a patch on Skoda - actually similar to a Favorit - but zero road tax and (for the moment) zero fuel cost were the deciding factors. I'll still be on here though and still happy to help with VCDS coding in the Edinburgh / West Lothian areas if anyone needs it (I'll keep my hand in on my wife's golf and our VW T5) In the mean time if anyone would like a low mileage 1.4 Octavia Estate 2015 then drop past lookers in Carlisle before they shift it on

Not sure I'd want a vRS Kodiaq. I swapped my Octy vRS for the scout because the vRS turned me from an mild mannered Janitor into hong kong fuey!!

Adverse to dusting though

OK final update on the issue of the blowing fuse... After bumping up the rating of fuse F4 from 5 amp to 10 amp I heard the sizzle *POP* of something burning out in the engine bay. But afterwards everything appeared to work fine !! But I was convinced that something had burnt out (am familiar to the smell of burnt out motors etc) I ran vcds, cleared all faults and only 1 returned... "Air quality sensor OPEN or SHORT circuit". Went on a mission to find location of the air quality sensor - am pleased to say I did indeed find it and it was definitely burnt out ! So for the benefit of anyone coming across this post due to similar symptoms, here is what the trouble was for me... I suspect that a previous post from someone saying he fitted a bigger fuse and the problem went away was probably similar issue - but under normal driving conditions you would never even notice if the air quality sensor was working or not (they're a bit rubbish at what they do anyway !) My short was caused by the air quality sensor - Part number 1k007659 It is located under the black plastic cover which is at the bottom of the windshield (the guard which covers the window wiper motors). It is on the PASSENGER side of the vehicle - thankfully that half of the cover simply pulls off without having to remove wiper blades. Under there is another black cover held on with 2 torx screws (this covers up the main air intake into the cabin) The sensor is clipped to the side of the air intake box with a steel folded clip which has barbs on it to grip the plastic. The sensor is connected via a 3 wire plug. Hopefully there should be some pics below showing the location of sensor and how it was burnt across its pins.... Location of sensor - right hand side of engine bay right up near windscreen... in bottom left corner of that grille... Sensor is near bottom left hand corner of the grille clipped to plastic. . The connector to my sensor showing evidence of burning... The sensor itself showing the melted plastic around the connection pins (one pin was very wobbly - almost falling out) It also smelled like burnt out motor. I am pleased to have found this and hope it helps other people. Looking back at the posts I realise that this is all thanks to Wino and a666andy who suggested upping the fuse rating. (Which led to the distinct "snap, crackle, *POP* followed by a burning smell !) NOTE TO Andy..... It might be worth checking your air quality sensor, if you situation is like mine, then upping the amperage of the fuse might have simply burnt out the sensor completely thus allowing the other devices to function correctly... Not that it really matters if the air quality sensor is not working ! Many thanks to everyone ! Forums and Professor Google have saved me 100's of pounds by avoiding paying out for hours of electrical fault finding (and I've learned more about my car in the process) Do Haynes not make a manual for the Skoda Superb !>!??

Hi Guys, I just become a Skoda owner, have a lovely Estate Superb 190 DSG SE L, loving it!

Even for a full service, Skoda don't remove the wheels or disturb the brake's. I do my own, take my time and that way I know the sump plug hasn't been zipped on with a impact wrench by some 17 yr old

Hi VCDS is a scan tool used in the aftermarket and is specific to VAG vehicles and is pretty much as good as (I think better than) the dealer tool. Once the fault has displayed it should store a code, same as above. This code pretty much means the car need a new shift assembly and we have seen this a lot and always now go straight for this and have had no issues once replaced.

Very much agree. I enjoyed my drive of my first ever electric car. Best to start it off with the maddest one you can find no? Thanks @Xavier!!!

Unfortunately I don't have the equipment or technical expertise to do that. I would have thought it would be a continual noise if it was low pads though? And IIRC my dealership said my pads were fine at my last service? I think I may do as wiilydog suggests and take it for the free check at the Kwik-Fit near me rather than going to my dealer, who may well charge me for an hour's Labour just to do the same checks.

Fantastic Review and fantastic photos from the air as well. Davy

Probably not particularly new or original but - parking. Supermarket car park only about half full, park in the most deserted part, furthest from building. Come back out 10 minutes later nothing much changed but car still had to park uncomfortably close to mine, could start to get a bit paranoid.

Got it mate, Took me about an hour to write the post

not that great for low mileage though as the turbos need decent run to stop sticking vanes, also got extra complications with turbo engine if it doesnt regularly get up to full temperature its not best for turbos regarding oil

Wish mine was . Same whatever the weather. I’ve emailed Skoda direct. I’ll see what happens. Such a shame. Lovely car otherwise,

55mm

Ah good point. Yeah it came with a physical service book. I will have a look and see what it says. Thanks!

What is your average journey length, average speed and type of road when you are achieving those figures. I've said before in another thread but I get no where near those figures and can only just creep into the 40s when really trying at constant speed on the motorway circa 70 mph or less. Some average speed limit 50 always helps.

My Sandisk camera embeds, GPD, speed and time into the recording. One dashcam probably wouldn't be evidence enough to convict but a serious of dash cams all showing the same or similar things would probably prove beyond reasonable doubt to a courtroom that the cars were breaking the law. The GPS location and times on something like the sandisk could give a reasonably indication over average speed as well if you got a few on the same route. The GPS data is also accurate and reliable. I suspect it would be trusted if it was across several sources. With the Cars ID oyu'd probably find they will have logged their movement across the cellular phone network. This would all be recoverable if plod felt it was worth the effort.

I must be the youngest member with a completely standard Citigo! Although mine is on finance and was never intended to be a keeper, just a cheap motor for uni, I plan on handing back and getting something much more powerful! Yours is looking fantastic! Wish I had the money to change the alloys for something else, I've got the standard SE L alloys and do wish I had them in a darker colour!

Just to be clear, premium petrol is worth the extra money if your car will benefit from the additional octane rating. Premium diesel is not the same, it contains a special additive pack which deep cleans the fuel system and combustion chamber over time, the cetane enhancer is a red herring because regular diesel engines cannot benefit from it. Neither flavour of fuel will do any harm and might do some good but in standard road cars the benefits are frankly moot and the additional cost is all margin for the fuel company.

Why do I keep seeing the now retired minister for Silly Walks and Basil.

Its not leaking so I doubt it will fail but you might get a minor advisory due to dust cover incomplete stopping ingress of dirt. Bit like when you have a CV boot split. Could always get a garage to look at it before the MOT ?

Off the Bay, as new condition, no quibble return etc.. Quite excited lol

I was fortunate that they were installed on the ex-demo model I bought and can definitely recommend if you have young children as my 3yr old can climb in herself using them

I have used my Pela/sealey extractor on oil that has been pretty warm and had no issues, probably 50-60C, but TBH I would say anything over 30C is warm enough to suck the oil out with ease.

I can Google it for you... https://mapcreator.here.com/ https://help.here.com/en/support/solutions/articles/24000009505-where-can-i-report-problems-with-the-map-in-here-wego-

Try kwik-fit for a free 45 minute brake diagnosis and quote as there is no obligation to have the work done by them as it might simply need a good strip and clean.

Hate to say it, but have a read of this It got sorted eventually but was a battle, and the fault had to be proved independently before Skoda paid out.

If your hoping to get one for under a grand expect for it to need some work on the common wear and tear parts. Id say the 1.2 is a decent engine and better on fuel than the early mpi engines, but it is slow despite having reasonable mid range torque id go for at least comfort/ambience spec as you get electric windows and air con which is a bonus in this weather. also central locking is a useful feature. Youd probably struggle to find one with FSH as people don't tend to bother on cheap old cars but there are some exceptions (older people etc who do low miles) Personally id go for an sdi diesel if i wanted a cheap runabout as they are fairly bulletproof and return good fuel economy, not that bothered about shorter journeys either as no turbo to worry about.

Look for a car coming up for sale in the BRISKODA cars for sale ads. & maybe post a 'Wanted ad'.

No mate. The BC's height adjustment is separate to the spring preload so I could lower it to the point it was undriveable if I wanted lol I think once I get my Mitsi sold I'll keep some money saved to buy the cleanest one I can find. Ideally want something as standard as possible this time round or maybe breathed upon but only if it's done very very well.

Here is my all black sportline 220, had it about 4 weeks and love it. Came from a mk2 fl octy VRS diesel. Only done a few things to it. Coded a few things with obd eleven and debadged the rear for a cleaner look.

I don't think that's a very valid metric - I agree more with wyx's response below. The big energy companies are all at it. Shell buying The New Motion last year. More recently, BP buying Chargemaster... They're realising that relying on fossil alone isn't enough and you have to be in the game to win it. My guess is they'll look at also increasing their presence / deals with retailers, like M&S currently do with BP so people do their shopping by the traditional fuel station whilst their car tops up at a rapid charger. This goes back a bit - it was with the floods / hurricanes in the US where they unlocked the software-limited 60kWh capacity to the battery's native 75kWh battery. Having OTA updates allows this kind of stuff. It's cheaper to manufacture one type of power source and software limit it than do several different ones. Just like some of the VAG engines are physically identical and differ simply by ECU programming. I hope so. Nissan have really shot themselves in the food with Rapidgate on the new Leaf. It's such a shame. Arguably, it doesn't affect that many people - only those doing long trips which need several successive rapid charges, but the negative PR has been awful :( What it does show though is that people are trying to use these cars on the limit of what the engineers thought people would do which is a good thing IMO - it's pushing the envelope and forcing continuous development. Agreed! I also find it fascinating how the "unlimited supercharging" thing isn't really costing Tesla that much but the perceived value for the end-user is MASSIVE and an exclusive Tesla perk. I'm approaching 50k miles in just over two years and my total electricity bill to date is less than what it would have cost me to do 500 miles in my old Fabia! Despite having a "limited" range in mine of 250 miles, say, I'm doing more miles than I ever did in the Fabia. The range (once above 200) isn't an issue providing you have a decent-enough charging infrastructure. I regularly do my Reading - Pau (South West France) trip in a day on my own. That's 900 miles in a day on my own. It's just not a problem. It maybe takes an extra couple of hours compared to bombing along in my old Fabia where I'd just do one pitstop, grab a coffee and motor through. However, in the Fabia, it was a lot more tiring and did involve me writing off my first one à la Jason. With the Tesla, it's just so much more effortless and relaxing, especially with things like Autopilot.... Anyway, I'm repeating myself now. Mind you, I say doesn't cost that much - the electricity itself isn't that expensive wholesale, it's the hardware and infrastructure that cost a small fortune. You're looking at over £1M for the larger Supercharger installs - between the cost of the chargers and huge step-down transformers and power supplies, it's eye-wateringly expensive. Some time ago, Tesla disclosed that globally, their 4G data bill for all the cars worldwide was larger than the electricity bill for all the Superchargers...

Need to make a choice on my dash cam and will be following in your steps shortly

It's currently at the mapping place for the final work. That's assuming no little issues creep in of course. Hopefully an update very soon.

Have you jacked it up and rotated the wheel to see if it's binding? Squeal could be debris or maybe brass filings in the brake pad material? Or low pads. I'd be tempted to pop the wheel off and have a butchers, check any anti-squeal shims are in place, look for anything untoward, then if it looks dirty drop the calliper and give it a jolly good clean and perhaps some copper grease. Think your dealer is most likely to be non-committal until they can work out what the problem is. They they'll probably present you will a fait accomplis, whether in your favour or not. Gaz

Small update, It's had a full service, new fuel filter, oil and filter etc but it's still driving not quite right. Seems to be a lot of lag when pulling away, especially when pulling away at a junction with the wheels pointing sideways (could be me) Also keep getting a smell, possibly diesel in the aircon. I'm starting to suspect maybe I have an injector problem. Also still got the "water in fuel, see manual" error popping up, despite the new filter. Hopefully a faulty sensor. I don't have the money to fix it all, especially as I'm not 100% sure what the faults are. Other than the above, I love it, it's comfy, fast (when it's running well) and gets looks!

Thanks Aubrey. I did find more when I put the search in Google, it took me to this site. There was a good pic' of Manni's car with tow bar fitted.

Here is a Russian post with lots of pictures. Same car, different name. Use google Translate as a rough guide. http://skoda-ural.ru/repair/remont-zamena-sireny-shtatnoi-signalizatsii-na-a-m-skoda-octavia-a5-fl

I installed a Dashcam in my MKIII Octavia this afternoon, and the one step that caused me the most grief, was removing the trim from the A pillar. I was pleased to find this thread, and then a little disappointed at the missing pictures. @mabnz's description was very helpful, but I though I would add a few pictures to help the next person with this task. This is the reverse side of the removed trim piece. Here you see the two metal V clips, and their plastic locating studs. And the two mounting locations, at the top and middle of the A pillar. I found the key was realising that you have to pull the trim out enough so the plastic studs come out of their locating holes (there's no 'wiggle' room, it has to come straight out), then slide the trim rearwards to allow the metal V clip to slide out to the wider part of the slot so the trim piece can come free. Again, thank you @mabnz, you description was the difference between success and failure.

Nice of you to cross out your number plate but not that of the other party. I wouldn't want my number plate on the internet for the same reasons you don't and I'm sure they don't either.

Paid Booked into Premiere Inn Sunday night

Placed an order on the 2nd of June for an SE L 1.5 TSI DSG with a few extras. No build week yet but I'm not expecting it anytime soon. ETA is December and the lease on my Yeti runs out in March '19 so we should be ok. I have been following the conversation with immense interest and will continue to do so. There is a real sense of community here, I feel like we're all in this together! I've seen 3 Karoqs on the road, one red, one Meteor and one Candy, and every time my partner and I cheer in celebration because we're just so happy for the people who have got theirs. It's so bizarre but so wonderful! Has anyone else recently got an order in?

I really do ....