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The old girl still polishes up well ....

The end of a very hot day 🥵

At the Res earlier................

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

I tend to take photos with either a Minolta Dimage F100 or an S304, depending on the situation. However, my Mum's Kodak EasyShare I found in a drawer. It's not that bad, it kept overexposing slightly in automatic mode, so I've compensated for that when loading the images into Ulead PhotoExpress 3.0 (yeah it's about 25 years old but works bob on).

Duly noted. 👍

The Cygnets were paddling flat out to keep up with Mum! 1070898~2.mp4 And a few others we spotted......... 1070802~3.mp4

I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

The system can trigger unexpectedly and can be quite sensitive.Two examples from my own experience / one annoying and one superb. As I exit my driveway, the path dips toward the road causing the front of the Car to drop. At any speed over a few mph it will see the road as a danger and Brake. Last year I was waiting at a Mini Roundabout for an opportunity to go straight across. There was car crossing from my right and a car waiting on the road from the left. The car on the right passed me and there was no further traffic so I looked over at the car on the other side. It started to move , there were no indicators to show that it was turning right so I assumed that it was going straight on. So I started to slowly move straight ahead. Then the Car suddenly did a u turn and crossed in front of my Car. The autonomous brake sensed it and slammed on the anchors and we stopped dead.There was no contact between the cars but it was close. The Car in front then shot off down the road.All caught on my Dashcam. I spoke to a Road Traffic Officer some days later and he said as described it was a 'Baiting' technique for crash for cash , he said that if it wasn't for the fact that I was going so slow (4mph on the dashcam) and the Braking that I would be involved in an accident that would have been deemed to be my fault. Automatic Emergency Braking does have its uses.

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.

The time has come to bid farewell to my Superb, shes served me well with only servicing/tyres costs for the last 5 years. I usually move when a car hits 100k but kept until 123k. Its a move thats not come easy but time to make a leap of extreme faith into an Audi EV (don't hate please),

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

First visit of the year to Coningsby.... 1440078~3.mp4 1440077~3.mp4

That’s a wrap! pause for applause and general mirth A nice bit of morning sunshine and no plans with the family meant I could finally finish wrapping the passenger side chrome strip. The rear quarter light has some dings on the chrome from an unknown event with the previous owner so that took about 4 failed attempts to get right. Eventually got it looking good enough with the only tiny crease of the whole project. It looks great from a distance, just don’t look too closely! As I say with a lot of my projects “Stevie Wonder would be pleased to see it” Just the roof rails to swap out and then the full dechrome is complete. They require a guaranteed dry day so may be some time before I attempt that!

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

Love is in the air 😍 1430349~4.mp4 And a few others from today.........

That'll be one person in this thread... 🤣

Carry one of these in the boot

Surely it doesn't really matter either way if you treat zero as zero... Which is what most sensible people do

Little Donkey meets the basic criteria, and tbh an EV is what really suits my needs now.

So i did 120 miles for £3. Then i put in £7 charging. Then another £19 and have done 170 miles. Now at 98%. Showing 175 mile range but in my 160 miles to get home i will put in a £5 charge on the way. So £34 for 330 miles and there will be maybe 30 miles range once home. No charging issues with last 2 chsrges @ 65 pence and 55 pence a kWh. Real life EV travel like this maybe half the time, or more when using familiar charging places. When it is crap experiences is often when in a hurry ,or during bad weather and when i lesst want the hsssle. A 300 mile plus range and home charging is obviously more sensible than a low range BEV. EDIT. Stopped for dogs to stretch legs, plugged in for 5 minutes and put in 4 kWh. £2.69. Got home with 30 miles range. (Average speed including stop 50 mph. Half was Motorway.)

It looks something like this.

I've just done it, 7mins after turning the engine off. The oil is about 3/4 up within the range it's supposed to be. So now I'm just concerned about the measurement at cold, but perhaps I shouldn't be as the manual makes no reference to this? Thanks for all your advice so far.

Opening the bonnet can cancel the warning for 62 miles / 100 km.

As above, they started showing up from MY19 onwards, with the 280/272 Superb. Though in some markets, they continued to get the DQ250 for a few more years. DQ250 is DSG-6 wet clutch. DQ381 is DSG-7 wet clutch

Well... Based on previous experience bugger all... Except the pride In knowing you guessed correctly. 😉 If you're lucky I'll post a picture of it tomorrow as a reward.

Hi all, Long time lurker, finally pulled the trigger on a mk3.5 superb l&k iV. Really impressed so far, very comfortable, great on fuel and plenty of space for the family. Came from a Leon fr, so getting used to not chucking into the bends 😅. Hope everyone is enjoying the recent good weather in the uk. I look forward to contributing to the forum, already had a good look about the various topics on here and can feel my wallet getting lighter. Cheers, Jay

Quite old for a hire car I didn't stand a chance 😁 G

Thanks. As you predict, Skoda are being no help at all. Dismissive even. I am so angry at the lack of customer service. Their website says Skoda website says “"Tow bar preparation" for the Škoda Superb IV means the vehicle is equipped with the necessary fittings and wiring to easily attach a tow bar, but the actual tow bar is not installed. This allows for the tow bar to be fitted later, either by a dealer or specialist garage, without major modifications. This preparation includes mounting points and electrical connections needed for towing, making it simpler and quicker to add a tow bar when required. It ensures the vehicle is ready for safe towing once the tow bar is installed and properly secured.” Nowhere does this state that the towbar must be a Skoda manufactured one. I am not giving up...

A few from this evening........ 1440152~3.mp4

Now if they would make an electric Octavia estate..... that would be my sweet spot.

As an aside, batteries can die very quickly. In my case the car had been driven the previous day but next morning showed no sign of starting. I called the AA (I have Have Start in case my wife needed it) and he started the car after connecting another battery in parrallel. Following an engine start and a 15 minute engine run, he disconnected the jump start battery and the engine immediately stopped. The car battery read 0 Volts and presumed to be open circuit internally. Unfortunately the four year guarranty (well known German make) ran out two weeks earlier.

Now installed. Forgot to get a “before” picture of the back! Before: After:

2 years. Comes from @varooom who is sadly no longer here but definitely from the inside and pretty much font of all knowledge.

What you have on screen is the Adaptive Cruise Control modes. These determine how fast/slow the car accelerates again after slowing down when ACC detects that the reason for slowing down is gone. These are different to the Driving modes which are Eco, Normal, Sport and Individual.

As a little extra, even the VW R models, Audi RS3, and Mercedes A-Class AMG, Cupra etc...have a multi-plate friction clutch; only the high-performance models have two of them, and the preload is achieved differently. However, the complete system isn't a VW or Audi development. It also comes from our company. Currently, we're offering the electrification of this model. 😜

VAQ diff was @ 3 years / 30,000 miles and Awsome GTI and others recommended 2 years / 20,000 miles, then Skoda changed to 2 years / 20,000 miles with Mk4,s. As it is many a Dealers Service Desk person with no mechanical knowledge says 'Optional'. This is VAQ,s i am speaking of.

Under the impression? Usually? Or told definitely by multiple dealers and Skoda UK? Can't see anything that says they're lifetime on the internet.

Not today, but finally found the way how to convert seat unit from 5Q0959760B/C/D/E/F to 3Q0 with lumbar massage About an hour of soldering, then firmware, and we get a unit with a massage

With each trip to look at houses being approx 500mile round trip the noise from the tyres (what's been diagnosed as the noise above 65mph) saw-toothing is really quite tiring (my mk2 used to do this too). so... I bought 40sheets of the 2mm Silent Coat sound deadening, covered the boot floor, put some in the boot side panels, put some under the back seat and the inner rear wheel arches & also lined as much of all 4 doors as I could (all covered as much as shown), with the little bits I had left I put them on the roof (not much todo as I have the panoramic roof). Its made a huge difference and glad I spent the time doing this (did it on my mk2 too) I bought a mk3 false floor when I bought the car in August '25 as our cocker spaniel can't see out of the boot without jumping up, just wanted something simple as it will either stay in permanently or just get removed (if more space is needed) so didn't bother with the whole kit and made a simple frame out of spare decking (instead of taking it to the tip).