Leaderboard

The old girl still polishes up well ....

The end of a very hot day 🥵

At the Res earlier................

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

I tend to take photos with either a Minolta Dimage F100 or an S304, depending on the situation. However, my Mum's Kodak EasyShare I found in a drawer. It's not that bad, it kept overexposing slightly in automatic mode, so I've compensated for that when loading the images into Ulead PhotoExpress 3.0 (yeah it's about 25 years old but works bob on).

Duly noted. 👍

The Cygnets were paddling flat out to keep up with Mum! 1070898~2.mp4 And a few others we spotted......... 1070802~3.mp4

I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

Not true - all versions of the Mk3.5 vRS came with 18” Gemini wheels as standard. Both 230ps and 245ps variants also had 340mm front brakes - the difference is that the 245 has 310mm vented rear, rather than 272mm solid. The easiest way to tell a 230 vs a 245 is to take a look at the rear brakes. The interior stitching on the 230 is also white, whereas the 245 is red - this is probably the most useful when looking at an advert. You can also check the door sticker for the engine code. 230ps models will be CHHA or DKTA, whereas 245ps will be DLBA, DHGA or DKTB. The DKTA and DKTB variants are Euro 6 with the GPF. You’ll find people claiming that the 245 has black exhaust tips - this isn’t true. They were, technically, meant to, but a lot of them didn’t. The 230 was phased out around 2018, but build dates and dealer stock means some do exist with later registrations. You want to get the 245. The extra power is irrelevant, along with the rear brakes - but you want it for the LSD and DQ381. Nothing wrong with the 250, but the 7-speed ratios are just that bit more friendly. The LSD, frankly, makes the car what it is. You’ll find that the prices are pretty much the same - whether it’s a 230, 245, 245 Challenge or whatever. The base build spec of both cars was the same - that’s how my 2020 car has ACC, the digi dash and £600 worth of black paint on the spoiler, but manual folding mirrors and no heated seats. If you want to do some research on the 230 versus the 245, you can compare the GTI to the GTI PP. It’s the same thing. There are lots and lots of posts about this - just use the search function.

Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

The system can trigger unexpectedly and can be quite sensitive.Two examples from my own experience / one annoying and one superb. As I exit my driveway, the path dips toward the road causing the front of the Car to drop. At any speed over a few mph it will see the road as a danger and Brake. Last year I was waiting at a Mini Roundabout for an opportunity to go straight across. There was car crossing from my right and a car waiting on the road from the left. The car on the right passed me and there was no further traffic so I looked over at the car on the other side. It started to move , there were no indicators to show that it was turning right so I assumed that it was going straight on. So I started to slowly move straight ahead. Then the Car suddenly did a u turn and crossed in front of my Car. The autonomous brake sensed it and slammed on the anchors and we stopped dead.There was no contact between the cars but it was close. The Car in front then shot off down the road.All caught on my Dashcam. I spoke to a Road Traffic Officer some days later and he said as described it was a 'Baiting' technique for crash for cash , he said that if it wasn't for the fact that I was going so slow (4mph on the dashcam) and the Braking that I would be involved in an accident that would have been deemed to be my fault. Automatic Emergency Braking does have its uses.

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.

The time has come to bid farewell to my Superb, shes served me well with only servicing/tyres costs for the last 5 years. I usually move when a car hits 100k but kept until 123k. Its a move thats not come easy but time to make a leap of extreme faith into an Audi EV (don't hate please),

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

First visit of the year to Coningsby.... 1440078~3.mp4 1440077~3.mp4

That’s a wrap! pause for applause and general mirth A nice bit of morning sunshine and no plans with the family meant I could finally finish wrapping the passenger side chrome strip. The rear quarter light has some dings on the chrome from an unknown event with the previous owner so that took about 4 failed attempts to get right. Eventually got it looking good enough with the only tiny crease of the whole project. It looks great from a distance, just don’t look too closely! As I say with a lot of my projects “Stevie Wonder would be pleased to see it” Just the roof rails to swap out and then the full dechrome is complete. They require a guaranteed dry day so may be some time before I attempt that!

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

Nothing wrong with 0 % / Zero miles range meaning 0% left and Zero miles possible IMO. Actually 'Simply Clever' to save people from acting stupidly and pushing on regardless because they read or watched somebody telling them how far you can go beyond. #'One step beyond' Madness.

The dealer I use was so mortified by me refusing the 2yr brake fluid change that they did it anyway FOC. They also replaced the a/c compressor under warranty as it was noisy, so I didn;t get asked about having it regassed. The new one is just as noisy mechanically but doesn't screech (which I think may have just been the gas being low), and the one on the courtesy car (same car as ours) was noisy too. Our Ateca and Kamiq have silent a/c. Anyway, it's going in next week for its 4yr service and I was contacted today and asked about having them done for the bargain price of £199. Gulp. On it's own they said they'd do the brake fluid for £80 instead of the normal £100. Where on earth do these price come from - £100 to change the brake fluid seems insane! It also really hacks me off that the car has All In, and yet All In is anything but!

How soon after stopping the engine did you check the level and was the car on level ground? If you did it too quick there could be too much in. I would be worried if my reading was over max when cold whatever the instructions on filling it were. Run the engine until at temp, park on level ground, wait at least 5 min then check the level. If it is still more than 1mm or 2 above max i would be looking for a way to get some out 1:The danger is that if you overfill it hot. when you check it cold the level could read lower 2: It should be lower when cold because liquids expand when heated. The confusion in all this is the drain down factor. Overnight a lot more drains down than in 5 minutes so the manufacturer wants the parts lubricated and below the max as a goal. Too much oil can be as bad as too little. Filling to max is not necessary the reading needs to be "Between" under the circumstance explained in the handbook that's the point of the dipstick and the instructions. It will say check the level is between and don't go over max it doesn't say check the level and fill to the max.

Opening the hood will temporarily cancel the low oil warning even if nothing is added. You say oil level 'seems fine' but whereabouts between the dipstick marks is it? If the warnings persists while oil level is fully at the max. level mark. it is probably a faulty sensor. Good practice to regularly check all fluid levels manually - not rely on warning indicators.

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

New (non dimming) mirror glass installed this evening. It doesn’t have the clip for the dimming wiring plug so I had to tuck it away. Initially it fouled the swivel movement so had to very carefully take the glass off again and tuck it away a bit neater. I also received the third attempt at buying a steering wheel with DSG. This time it was listed as for a karoq with part number 3V0419091AB. It is completely identical to my current wheel but with the addition of DSG paddles. No idea what makes it different from 3V0419091S and 3V0419091M as they look the same too. But those ones are listed as for a superb and tend to be significantly more expensive. It came with the usual wreckers grime but 5 minutes with some autoglym leather cleaner and a damp cloth and it looks good as new. Silky smooth with a nice matt finish. What was described as a scuff on the wheel in the eBay listing turned out to be grime so that was a bonus. The vehicle it came from had only done 38,000 miles so I’ve ended up with a steering wheel significantly newer and in better condition than my old one too! The addition of some alloy DSG extension paddles completes the look. (Thanks again @JR RS for the link!) Will I use them? Probably not. Do I love them? Most definitely.

Hi all, Long time lurker, finally pulled the trigger on a mk3.5 superb l&k iV. Really impressed so far, very comfortable, great on fuel and plenty of space for the family. Came from a Leon fr, so getting used to not chucking into the bends 😅. Hope everyone is enjoying the recent good weather in the uk. I look forward to contributing to the forum, already had a good look about the various topics on here and can feel my wallet getting lighter. Cheers, Jay

Take it Arnold Clark to sort it out. The Motor OmbudsmanWhat is the Consumer Rights Act, and how does it affect m...If you bought your car after 01 October 2015, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 applies. This means that, when you buy the vehicle, it has to be of satisfactory

Quite old for a hire car I didn't stand a chance 😁 G

Short answer - depends on what the issues are doing - is the car actually faulty just because the systems aren't fully funtioning. You need to check with someone, that really knows, (a properly trained person in these matters) at your insurers. This you can also use to hopefully speed up getting the issue(s) sorted. Longer answer - first, 'blokes' on the internet can give their opinions and (remembered) experience, such as I'm doing, but what about knowlege, training and qualifications, personally I (ETA) don't have any in this area but how would you check if I said I did. If these systems can, freely, be turned off by the driver, usually going through driver computer menus or on switches near the driver then obviously there is a choice about their use so they're not mandatory - but - if your insurance is based on their use that would be another matter, and no doubt (ETA) anyway if there was an accident the non-use would be noted. Any system, whether used or not, doesn't take away the driver's responsibility to actually driver and control the car. If the faults in the system(s) doesn't interfere or hinder with the car being driven properly by the driver then them not working (if not mandatory) doesn't matter. Good piont about recording anything on an open public (or any) website, if you need to ask about anything that you think might (I don't think it will) get you into any trouble then contact the correct appropriate people non-publicily, it might still be recorded of course. Good luck.

Hi. It would be better for yourself if you started a new topic in the correct forum for your model (Octavia MkIII) Here's a link to direct you there where other MkIII owners can hopefully help out. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/

Yes fob battery life is greatly shortened (I change mine annually when MOT is done) important to change spare fob battery too and use it approx. once every 3 months (to re sync with the cars rolling codes)

I don’t know if anyone on here remembers me, but I was pretty active on here 10+ years ago. We moved away from Skoda due to them unfortunately not making anything big enough for our needs (until relatively recently) but now have a nice 22 plate Kodiaq. Anyone who does remember me will recall I did a few tutorials for fixes on our two Mk1 Fabias (Comfort and vRS), but to be honest I don’t dare do much more than check the fluids on the Kodiaq!

Now if they would make an electric Octavia estate..... that would be my sweet spot.

My 2024 Octavia has now been back to the dealer multiple times for this exact issue, most recently for a three-week period of diagnosis and road testing with Skoda technical involved after we rejected the vehicle. Skoda have emailed the dealer to say the issue is caused by the engine ECU shutting down the engine in order to protect the dual mass flywheel when it detects a potential stall condition at low RPM. So it's working as designed and there is no fault. Their official guidance is to modify your driving style to avoid low RPM in higher gears. I have searched through the user manual and on Skoda's website but can find no mention of this. Learner drivers have been taught the "brakes to slow, gears to go" mantra and to use block gear changes for decades (as per DVSA guidance), so for VW Group to tell us otherwise is astonishing. I have kept a detailed log of incidents and I will now be submitting a report to DVSA.

Definitely a lemon, I've wasted my money on new cars since 2002 and never had one with faults like these. I would take it back to be sorted out ASAP and insist on a courtesy car for the duration of the repairs.

2 years. Comes from @varooom who is sadly no longer here but definitely from the inside and pretty much font of all knowledge.

What you have on screen is the Adaptive Cruise Control modes. These determine how fast/slow the car accelerates again after slowing down when ACC detects that the reason for slowing down is gone. These are different to the Driving modes which are Eco, Normal, Sport and Individual.

Gen 6 Controller ist no include in the Pump

All I've read is asking for others to quote sources, yet just being non-descript about what you've heard from who or what. Occy's added links, quoted sources and explained stuff in detail - in part because you've asked, but in part he's proactively offered this information. I still don't see that reciprocated. This is just bonkers. What's an aggressive schedule? Too much maintenance? That flies in the face of logic. From the vehicle's point of view, there's only one way you can mess up maintenance and that's not doing it enough. Given the allusion that independents advising servicing are money-making, you're giving the impression cost is more important than maintenance.

VAQ diff was @ 3 years / 30,000 miles and Awsome GTI and others recommended 2 years / 20,000 miles, then Skoda changed to 2 years / 20,000 miles with Mk4,s. As it is many a Dealers Service Desk person with no mechanical knowledge says 'Optional'. This is VAQ,s i am speaking of.

Under the impression? Usually? Or told definitely by multiple dealers and Skoda UK? Can't see anything that says they're lifetime on the internet.

Not today, but finally found the way how to convert seat unit from 5Q0959760B/C/D/E/F to 3Q0 with lumbar massage About an hour of soldering, then firmware, and we get a unit with a massage

You Guys are amazing! Thank You for all. Everything Works perfect! Keep up the good work