langers2k

Can you post an autoscan from VCDS and an adpmap from 09 please? That should help clear things up

At a guess, it'll be a broken or damaged wiring loom. Take a look at this guide:

Maybe try some other apps too? If it's streaming then it might be using a low quality file until it's had time to download a better one.

It scares me the way the Chinese cameras seem to code themselves in and seemingly even mess with the diag comm's from 5F. Sure, the OEM cameras are more expensive but they avoid these issues I don't think I have much to add I'm afraid @Vahids - assuming you've got a scan and adpmaps from before you tested it, my only suggestion would be restoring everything then connecting it. Might be worth contacting the seller too. Not sure if you know anyone with a HEX-V2 or HEX-NET to find out more detail for some of those errors?

The car probably hit a soot threshold which cause the warning light to show, basically asking you for help to regen. During that mile, It may have gotten the DPF hot enough to start burning off the soot and once it dropped below the threshold, the light extinguished It's just a theory as unless the car now has a fault code stored, it's impossible to tell.

The fan should only normally stay on if you've interrupted a regen cycle and the engine bay is super hot. It shouldn't be a common occurrence or happen every time you stop the engine... How long are your journeys and what mileage has the car done? If it's been sat around a while it might just need a decent journey to fully clear the DPF out, if it's a higher mileage car the DPF may be getting full with oil ash. Might be worth adding where you're based as a local member with VCDS/OBDeleven can check for fault codes and the soot/oil ash loading in the DPF

The part number should be on the rear of the old ones. I think it's 6U0 601 151L

9977 is a 'fixed' ECU software version I think there is also 5751 and 9978 available for that ECU. The former is pre-fix and as far as I know, can be flashed using ODIS but I've never tried to downgrade an ECU. It's certainly worked for other modules. No idea what a tuner would charge, probably £100-£150 in the UK?

That's not the case with steering modules, although the higher letters are typically newer, it doesn't mean they will support the same features/functionally... There is a helpful page from rosstech: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Steering_Wheel_Control_Module_Versions#Part_Number_5K0-953-569 Bare in mind, that is just the HW part number so you should also consider the SW part number too.

What number are you using? 5K0953569E brings back loads on both eBay and Aliexpress... edit: It might be worth reconnecting it and get a scan with VCDS or similar. This is for two reasons: - to confirm the SW part number - to backup the existing coding This is the module from my old Octavia, it shares the same HW part number as your Yeti but I expect the SW is different Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels: 5K0-953-569.clb Part No SW: 5K0 953 521 BN HW: 5K0 953 569 E Component: LENKS.MODUL 014 0140

From the owners manual:

Physically it might, although the A4 camera will have a different parameter/dataset on it so it may not work properly given how different the MMI and MIB radios are. I got the one for my Octavia from this seller who was quite helpful: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000197729171.html There was spare length in the loom so I just cut it down to size

Nope, the diesel vRS is a 184 The 220/230/245 is the power output in pferdestärke aka PS or metric horsepower. Therefore, if you have 217BHP then you have the 220ps edition

Surely you can just connect it to an appropriately fused, switched ignition live and the problem is solved...?

Just had a quick look at the WD I have and I can only see 4 wires The fold in switch (E263) looks to share the resistor ladder with the other rotational settings which makes sense:

You'll need to add a wiring loom for the camera The camera wash tee's off the existing rear washer.

Pretty sure it's behind the glovebox... It should be described in the owners manual how to access it

Are you able to share the update?

I prefer the chart from the rosstech thread I posted although it basically says the same thing with G12 evo added: What your car has is along the top axis, what you're adding is along the left axis. For a car with G11 originally, look down the left hand column: - G11 is factory - G12 is not compatible - G12+, G12++, G13, G12evo are all mixable with G11 and will protect as well or better In my case, I'd look down the 5th column: - G13 is factory - G11, G12, G12+ are not recommended due to reduced protection - G12++ and G12evo are both mixable with G13 and will protect as well or better

At a guess, it's 5J7 868 522 which is part 14 here:

I think they have a 2014 petrol vRS looking at their old posts. My FL 2018 vRS is loosing coolant so it's not just the pre-FL... it drops from max to min in about 3-4k so it's going in for investigation next week under warranty, the dealer mentioned they had coolant pumps in stock without prompting so it must be pretty common TPI 2049121/3 covers coolant loss and a few of the production changes they've made: • Optimizing filling process of coolant in CW 12/2015. • Measure to ensure tightness of coolant regulator housing, introduced in CW 27/2019. • Measure to ensure tightness of coolant pump, introduced in CW 23/2020. Not that the TPI gives much clue as to exactly where the pump is: This might help though:

I'd ring a few local garages and see if anyone has the correct VW spec coolant. If you're quick, Amazon can get you some tomorrow using prime: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Volkswagen-coolant-G12E050A2-replaces-G013A8JM1/dp/B08BNNMR2G/ G12evo can be added to G13 without issue: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20182/

Bluetooth won't help... Most of the AA apps on XDA suggest they need root, maybe take a look at AAAD on XDA as that doesn't seem to need root although it may require an out-of-date AA version. This isn't something I've done nor intend to try, the links/videos are to give you a starting point and set you off in the right general direction

As above, the first thing is to see if your car and phone support Android Auto: Once you've confirmed that, you'll probably need to root your phone and install one of the various AA apps to allow video streaming. How to root will depend on your phone, be warned, there is a risk of losing all your data, security concerns and even the possibly of bricking the phone. XDA is a good place to start, they have sperate sub-forums for most common phone models with rooting guides and there are a few AA streaming options here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/f/android-auto-general.3834/ There is also a video guide to downgrade AA here: Personally, I wouldn't want to be rooting my phone or running old apps but that's my view so it may not match yours. Obviously it's your choice but if you have an older, unused phone, I'd be tempted to use that when you want video streaming rather than your main phone

Hopefully it's just another fuse issue as that's pretty easy to solve....