langers2k

You have an Amundsen so you'll need an official Skoda SD card for the maps. You can use any SD card for the firmware update though

When I bought my used vRS 245 in August, the dealer had 6-7 in stock. A week later they were all sold... Guess you need to time it right with the end of leases and people handing them back. Nice easy sale for you though!

It depends what system your wife's car has. Indirect systems don't have physical pressure sensors, instead they rely on rotational differences between the wheels (via the ABS sensors) so would just need resetting. Direct systems like the OP has fitted need physical sensors so either new sensors or moving them from the other rims. That'll just depend. The style the OP has fitted are pretty clever, it uses a combination of signal strength and rotation direction to figure out which wheel they are fitted on. They can be moved around the car or even fitted to other cars and the TPMS module figures it out pretty quickly. There is no pairing so after a short drive it should pick up after a summer/winter tyre/sensor swap. When I did fitted a similar TPMS system to my old Octavia, I bought sensors from 3 different suppliers and the module found them without any user intervention However, other systems (for instance the VAG orange sensors) need coding using a TPMS tool and then fitting to a specific wheel. The Chinese systems are also typically designed for a specific sensor in each wheel. Other manufactures probably have their own (similar) systems so without knowing your Wife's car, it's hard to give specific advice

If the coolant temperature gauge is above 90'C, I'd say you have a problem. The gauge doesn't tell you the true temperature so any time it's above 90'C means something is wrong unless you're putting massive load on the engine for a sustained period of time. Seems very unlikely in or around Crouch End during Winter to produce that kind of load. A DPF issue shouldn't cause three warning lights immediately, first you should get a single 'DPF' light showing. At this point you should do a regeneration drive (not a flogging), as described in the owners manual. If you never had only the DPF light showing, then you may have another problem. You also mention a DPF sensor over voltage? That could cause DPF issues too although you've not mentioned which sensor. Might be worth finding a VAG/Skoda specialist who knows about DPF systems to check the car over. Certainly feels like the DPF blockage is a symptom of an actual problem rather than just London driving.

Power is up to you, I'd probably give it's own feed but if you fit it near the amp in the boot, splitting the amp supply should be fine. Correct about the speakers, headunit to DSP (via the labelled wires on the 20pin connector), then DSP to amp via RCA (low level). The only other obvious thing would be what's going to turn the DSP on/off. Looks like it can either use: - switched ignition feed to 'key mem' - remote to 'rem in' - auto on/off based on when it sees an audio signal You might want to take a look at what turns the amp on and off for ideas to which is best. I've no idea how good the auto on/off is. Finally, it states "WARNING: the bit Ten must be switched on before any amplifiers are turned on". Based on that, you probably want a wire between DSP 'rem out' to the amps remote on? At least that would be my understanding based on the manual

What DSP is it and what does it's installation manual say...?

Then you have a different problem to the OP You might want to start by telling us exactly what you have fitted, what problem your facing and what you've tried...

Take a look at the coding and adaptions of '69 Trailer'. If it's likely to be anywhere, it'll be there...

Take it to a garage with a headlight alignment tool? It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes and should be within spec rather than a guesstimate...

The software updates used to be freely available online but maybe of dubious quality. Did you try contacting Rusty?

Might be worth adding an autoscan too. Assuming it's a proper kit, there are still various versions of the towbar module (hardware/software) that might be installed, I would expect only some will support LED trailer lights. There's also a good change on a pre-FL that none support LED trailer lights...

Get the car scanned for fault codes with VCDS or similar. Otherwise it could be a number of issues with similar symptoms...

Erm, it's written in the previous post...

I use Android Auto with a MIB2.5 Amundsen and I'd second Sasha's comments, works perfectly for me and I tend to plug my phone in for all but the shortest journeys. Super handy way charging the phone too

If you have a factory fitted alarm, it should still go off if someone uses a key to unlock the car. I would hope it used the immobiliser chip to confirm it's a valid key for the car... Relevant section from the owners manual: Might be worth checking the alarm siren battery is still OK as it may be dead after 9 years. VCDS or similar should confirm this.

It looks like the instructions you've followed are for cars with halogen DRL at channels 2 and 3? I would revert those changes, I think the originals should be: ENG116938-ENG115928-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimming Direction GH 2,maximize ,16 ENG116938-ENG115927-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimmwert GH 2,0 ,16 ENG116938-ENG115925-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion G 2,not active ,16 ENG116939-ENG115947-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimming Direction GH 3,maximize ,16 ENG116939-ENG115946-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimmwert GH 3,0 ,16 ENG116939-ENG115944-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion G 3,not active ,16 I think the DRL LED drivers are connected to channels 8 and 9 but it's not super clear what makes them dim as they appear to be 100% brightness for all modes. Feels like it could be a dataset thing for the two light control modules (address D6 and D7)? Have you seen a video of a FL MK3 with the DRL brightness increasing between indicator flashes, I had a quick look and couldn't... Happy to be wrong though! For the whiskers, try: ENG116952-ENG116186-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimming Direction CD 16 to minimize ENG116952-ENG116183-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion C 16 to Blinken rechts Hellphase ENG116953-ENG116205-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimming Direction CD 17 to minimize ENG116953-ENG116202-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion C 17 to Blinken links Hellphase At least based on point 5 from here https://www.drive2.ru/l/570375506273239157/ it should look like this:

The fix was released back in 2016, this surely can't be your first letter about it if you've owned the car since new? Pretty sure the last reminder letter they sent me was back in 2017 which I happily ignored. Are you saying they've sent this recently? The injectors shouldn't be touched during the update. It's a software update via the OBD port and a 'flow transformer' which is just a plastic mesh near the MAF. Had an injector simply failed, it should be covered under the TBM (trust building measure). Would a failed injector cause any movement, let alone so much as to wear the head to failure in just 16 miles. A seized bolt suggests it hasn't been out recently. Even if an injector is fully stuck open, I can't it passing fuel quickly enough on a running engine to cause hydrolock and pop an injector. What are peoples thoughts, something doesn't add up to me... Anyway, my only advice would be getting a full independent inspection to find out what caused the engine failure and then consider legal action if it's shown to be negligence on the dealers part.

Worth checking for water ingress where the control module connects to the headlight too

Looks like a faulty LCD panel in the cluster to me, the garage will probably need to replace the entire cluster to fix it. On a related note, there is a TSB/TPI about vertical lines on some radio LCD panels and the official fix is to replace the entire display so it's not completely unheard of to have this kind of issue.

If it's a unit with CP removed, vcds can probably code it to work correctly. Post an autoscan so we can see what's wrong.

Our resident expert on these units is @Rustynuts Hopefully he'll be along soon 😉 if you're lucky, it'll be recoverable using a firmware update CD. You might need to check the part number of the radio to get the right one.

Are you sure you have a MK3 Superb? I only ask as 2064 ('64 plate?) could be a MK2 FL and that error feels like you have a RNS-510 style Columbus rather than the MIB style headunits found in the MK3. Example MK2 FL: Example MK3: Example of a RNS-510 style Columbus which is what I think you have:

Looking at this thread, VCDS can't clear that code: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/14959/

Engine code is DFCA 👍

Based on this post, it looks like the mount points are different on beam and IRS Octavia's: So it's probably possible but you'll need to cut and weld new mounts whilst making sure they're properly aligned. Might be easier to switch cars if you really need IRS