Warrior193

Hello Terence, welcome to the forum. I'm afraid that it's one of two things - either the 'senior mechanic' is incompetent - or he's lying. Skoda do not manufacture batteries - VAG have them supplied by whoever has the contract, it is the same for tyres. All that has to be done is to enter the battery type (AGM in this case) The AH rating (70 in this case) - and a serial number (can be made up, or simply change the last digit of the old serial number) so that the BCM knows that a new battery has been fitted.

Glad that puss got back home safely.

Unfortunately, that's not the case - my Octavia Combi has a towing weight listed on the load plate - and I know that it doesn't have tow bar prep. The 'max. towed weight' figure just means that a tow bar is permitted.

That button is for automatic idle stop.

That looks like a simple cabin heating and ventilation system - not one with AC.

Gday cobber, if you've had the vehicle from new - just reread your post and see that you bought 2nd hand. The white PR code sticker in the trunk may have the information if you are able to decode it - or you could try a PM to @ApertureS - you may need to let him know your VIN for the full build code. Good luck.

Both front and rear 12 volt sockets are permanently live.

When you think about how an override (inertial) type trailer braking system currently works - tow vehicle starts braking, trailer pushes against tow coupling - possibly with some force - which then operates the trailer brakes - I can see a potential for jack-knifing the rig if the push against the rear of the tow vehicle happened while in a turn. If you consider, ABS and front-assist emergency braking operate on a electro-hydraulic system, I can see a trailer braking system not necessarily needing to be so complicated. With the trailer brakes being applied at the same time as the tow vehicle, or even slightly in advance, I can see a potential gain in stability from that type of system. It would work in much the same manner as a big rig.

I think I've heard of electro-hydraulic or electrically operated brakes being used on trailers across the pond - possibly also a thing in The Land Down Under. 😁

Hmmm, 2nd owner getting rid fairly quickly?

Good grief, how far did the dealership test drive your car to use that much oil?

@Shubh was it merely an adjustment required to the radar sensor - or had there been some damage to the mountings?

I'd suspect that the play in the right CV joint will be found to be the culprit. In my experience, the body of the CV joint is an integral part of the drive shaft. Also in past experience - although not recent - it was common, particularly for an out of balance front wheel, for a vibration to manifest at a fairly specific rotation speed - probably a harmonic frequency.

Possibly worn valve stem seals/guides?

Do your water and oil temperature readings look OK?

Even if the old nut had been reused (inadvisable as it appears to be a 'nylock' type) I'd expect to see corrosion disturbance on the points. To me, that joint boot looks like it has split.

I have to say that joint certainly doesn't look as if it has been disturbed recently.

See what the inspection throws up, do you have access to a mechanic / garage you trust? One quick test you could do to check for wear in the drive-shaft CV joints is to drive round a circle in both directions at full lock and listen for any knocking noises.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Normally I'd suggest wheel balance issues for this, but from your further description, possibly a drive shaft problem or engine mounts. Your engine should not sound as if it is 'struggling' in 6th gear at 100Km/hr - do you actually mean you think it's over-revving? - at that speed, revs should be well under red line and engine should feel and sound fine. SWMBO's 1.0 Fabia always feels to me like it needs to be in a lower gear, especially below 50-60MPH.

@PetrolDave or @ApertureS can you give a full list of the features that use data from the A5 camera - and (depending on options) how many different windscreen-mounted cameras were used on MY16 vehicles?

I'd suggest waiting until the new, fully-charged battery is fitted, then resetting all fault codes and taking things from there. All sorts of (often spurious) fault codes can be common with a faulty / discharged battery.

Hello, welcome to the forum. My money is on there being an airlock in the cooling system. You may be able to clear it with patience while keeping an eye on (and topping up) the expansion tank. I'm not sure if it applies to your model - but my understanding is that there is a VCDS procedure to purge air from the cooling system after drain and refill - do you know if this was carried out?

What you need is a long 'breaker bar' with correct size socket for loosening tight wheel bolts - which may have been previously tightened way too much by gorilla with a hammer-gun. Ideally, the bolts require to be refitted at correct torque, but this can be reasonably estimated with a little experience. It's good practice to have a 'feel' for the correct wheel bolt torque - it's a real pain to find that you can't replace a flat at the roadside because some gorilla tyre fitter has wound the hammer-gun to max!

Hello, it's likely that the ABS sensor or the connecting lead has been damaged, the wheel will need to be removed to check it.

Hello, see the attached image below for the automatic idle stop button - if your new vehicle doesn't have this button somewhere on the instrument panel, it's probably not a micro-hybrid - in which case, you don't need to carry out any adaptation when fitting a replacement battery and you don't require an EFB or AGM type.