Warrior193

What is really needed is a 'Cold Cranking Test' which measures the point the battery voltage falls to while turning over the engine - if the voltage falls too low, the battery will be unable to supply the necessary current (amps) to reliably operate the starter motor at the minimum speed required for the engine to fire - this would explain why the vehicle in question did start when the Noco booster pack was connected. Another point - while the starter battery is being subjected to the extreme current draw of the starter motor, other ancillary devices (fuel pump, etc.) will be affected by significantly reduced operating voltage.

Hello, I strongly suggest getting the battery tested first - I have seen quite a few reports of TDIs reluctance to start, only to see the problem fixed when the failing battery was replaced. It seems that some TDIs are particularly sensitive to slower than normal cranking speeds.

If it's your car, and you paid for the diagnostic work, you are entitled to be told what the errors are. You will need to get the error codes somehow - perhaps by asking a forum member near you, or by getting your own code reader.

Hello Justin, welcome to the forum. Is this rev limiting while driving - or while stationary in neutral gear - do you know that engine revs are limited under those conditions? You will need to post any error codes found, have you got these?

If your lane assist camera has an alignment issue due to the replacement, it is possible that the HBA sensor (if fitted) suffers from a similar issue. Do you have HBA - does it work correctly?

My winters appear to be foreign body magnets, regular slow punctures from screws, etc 😒 - my TPMS reliably flags at approx. 0.5 bar / 7PSI.

I'd take a guess that fault 4 would almost certainly be related to number 5. You could try @ApertureS for a better answer for fault number 1.

That's a little steep for max. 5-10 mins work! - but it really needs doing. I assume that you haven't been able to find any Briskoda members with VCDS near you?

Hello Hedia, welcome to the forum. Error code 00516 refers to a throttle body closed position issue. Check that there is nothing preventing it from fully closing, also check TB wiring and connections.

Way over, I think, I don't remember the weigh bridge numbers when Dad and I raced it in the BP60 harbour races - I was running a Reece-Fish carb at the time, but no other mods - standard cooling. Yes, lots of hills - was living in Wellington, NZ at time.

I used to regularly tow a four metre open runabout with a Mk1 Mini (850cc) without issues in the early 70s.

Likely that the failure by your 'mechanic' to correctly adapt (code) your new battery when it was fitted has resulted in it being undercharged by the vehicles smart charging system - I'd strongly suggest getting it properly charged on an external charger (battery can stay connected in car) then getting a condition test done on it - hopefully, your new battery hasn't suffered damage. If it has, tell your (now) ex. garage you intend to make a warranty claim.

If UK registered - the first three or four letters of the engine number on your V5 document. It is also probably on the vehicle load plate (on the B pillar)

@TerenceWallis - does your car have automatic idle stop?

Hello Terence, welcome to the forum. I'm afraid that it's one of two things - either the 'senior mechanic' is incompetent - or he's lying. Skoda do not manufacture batteries - VAG have them supplied by whoever has the contract, it is the same for tyres. All that has to be done is to enter the battery type (AGM in this case) The AH rating (70 in this case) - and a serial number (can be made up, or simply change the last digit of the old serial number) so that the BCM knows that a new battery has been fitted.

Glad that puss got back home safely.

Unfortunately, that's not the case - my Octavia Combi has a towing weight listed on the load plate - and I know that it doesn't have tow bar prep. The 'max. towed weight' figure just means that a tow bar is permitted.

That button is for automatic idle stop.

That looks like a simple cabin heating and ventilation system - not one with AC.

Gday cobber, if you've had the vehicle from new - just reread your post and see that you bought 2nd hand. The white PR code sticker in the trunk may have the information if you are able to decode it - or you could try a PM to @ApertureS - you may need to let him know your VIN for the full build code. Good luck.

Both front and rear 12 volt sockets are permanently live.

When you think about how an override (inertial) type trailer braking system currently works - tow vehicle starts braking, trailer pushes against tow coupling - possibly with some force - which then operates the trailer brakes - I can see a potential for jack-knifing the rig if the push against the rear of the tow vehicle happened while in a turn. If you consider, ABS and front-assist emergency braking operate on a electro-hydraulic system, I can see a trailer braking system not necessarily needing to be so complicated. With the trailer brakes being applied at the same time as the tow vehicle, or even slightly in advance, I can see a potential gain in stability from that type of system. It would work in much the same manner as a big rig.

I think I've heard of electro-hydraulic or electrically operated brakes being used on trailers across the pond - possibly also a thing in The Land Down Under. 😁

Hmmm, 2nd owner getting rid fairly quickly?

Good grief, how far did the dealership test drive your car to use that much oil?