Paws4Thot

In which case, why not go down 10mm on ET instead?

Yes there are, at least if you're posting from a computer, the "link" (chain) and GIF icons.

Almost certainly not. The car's body control module will presume that the "new" ICE has been stolen until it is provided with a code number.

Discs or drums? It's dependant on year and trim level.

Is the tank labelled "mit silikat" or similar. If so, change that and initially hope nothing's irretrievably bunged up.

Pretty much yes, as long as the actual coolant temperature stays in the range of 60C to 110C.

So much for keyboard expurts, huh?

It's a latching warning light, and you need a garage or a bought VCDS to reset it.

Like around almost every school in Scotland for example?

Is a recommendation from ZF Transmission:- A recommendation from qualified transmission engineers Anecdata of significant sample size Ignored because I'm quoting other people quoting ZF?

That makes me think that you have a disconnected or broken alternator control wire. Maybe 30 minutes work.

Those can not both be right. 14" wheels will not fit 15" tyres and vice versa.

Well, that rules out issues with the alternator control wires.

??

When was the cabin pollen filter last changed?

I'd use 0W-40 for short runs because it pumps up pressure faster on cold starts.

In the context of Krisp1's query, does the battery light come on when you switch the ignition on?

You do realise that BYK711 hasn't visited the site in 7.5 years, and has made a total of 3 posts?

Start with the ones in the doors, and the plenum chamber drains under the bonnet through the front wings.

"brake pads most likely need replacing and should be done straight away" - Almost certainly male bovine excrement after 4_000 km. You would be well advised to wash the wheels using a mild car shampoo and a proper wheel brush.

I'd start with a deep load test on the battery. Lots of places will do this for free, on an understanding that they get the business if the battery needs replacing. If it's not the battery, get the fault codes read using a VAG code reader. This will at least tell you something along the lines of "ABS fault, front left corner" (actual narrative may vary; the important point is which corner the fault is at). It could be the reluctor, or the sensor, or the wiring, but you need access to the vehicle to discover which.

The left hand columns are for up to 3 occupants (plus luggage); the right hand columns are the only ones that apply to "full load".

Tell them "One more kick and they're walking home", and do so in a way that makes them believe you mean it!

Dunno, but "low voltage" can result in all sorts of errors which are cleared by a new battery and then clearing the fault codes. I had the sprage clutch for the alternator on an Octavia 1 fail; fault codes generated included ABS sensor fails, radio and interior fan cancelled, issues with engine management and Climatronic... The cure was quite honestly just replacing the sprage clutch. So yes I find a suggested diagnosis of "duff battery" plausible.