Breezy_Pete

Ignition on, engine stopped. That is all I'm seeing. No reference to coolant temperature. (My) Memory failure.

I'm not sure. Maybe I can check on my car soon. I think there are some pre-conditions for the adaptation, like perhaps coolant temperature being >80°C, I can check that this morning in a document I have. Have you checked the steel output pipe at the point it discharges under the throttle body? Blockage there may be preventing any EGR flow.

Keep playing with it, sometimes you just need to do something twice!

Your VIN brings up the part number 6Y2 857 502 BL GRU That's "Exterior mirror (aspherical wide angle) (electric adjustment and heated) primed" and was £124.50 + VAT before it was dropped from supply on Sept 1st 2024. ☹️

Ping me your VIN in a private message and I can look it up for you.

Headlamp washer has its own, separate motor, doesn't it?

A dry/cracked solder joint at the instrument cluster connector might give similar symptoms too, I guess?

I had something like this on a Vauxhall once. Turned out that the mechanical arrangement of the sender unit in the tank had become a bit misaligned or bent so that the wiper contact(s) were losing their pressure against the carbon track(s) of the potentiometer in the tank. A bit of gentle bending of a metal rod to improve the contact pressure sorted it. No idea if the physical arrangements were similar enough to what you have for this to be a plausible explanation in this case. Did you take any photos while the pump/gauge sender were outside the tank?

It should be that ringed one in top row I think, check if it has blown. Wiring info said 15A rating, not 10A.

Message me with your VIN and I will check for you. I think you're right to be concerned though, the third character in the part number being a 1 rather than a 2 makes me suspect LHD.

All CBZB are SOHC, so I don't understand your question.

For your engine, fuse #17, 15 Amp rated is the supply to check with ignition/contact on. I wonder if this has been checked at some time in the diagnosis, and put back in the wrong position?

Photograph the current layout of the fuses before removing any, as a reference in case of "wait, which slot did I pull this one out from?" moments.

Don't have access to circuits right now, but pretty sure one side of the solenoid should have ignition switched 12V on it. Check cabin fuses one by one, especially ones that may be marked ambiguously on the fuse card or in user manual.

Is the indicated mpg anywhere near true? Ours wasn't, it was about 30mpg optimistic

Well worth a look. Access better from beneath, but in my experience, you can get enough space to remove undertray and get enough access to investigate with just one side (UK nearside) of the front of the car jacked up and supported safely on an axle stand. One could possibly improvise by parking with nearside wheels up on a kerb instead.

Let me know how much you'd want for it, if you do decide to offload it.

Had similar on our Roomster with same engine. Gave a different fault code as well though. After a lot of faffing about replacing things that didn't help, it turned out to be oil contamination in the wiring/connectors of the loom for the pre-cat sensor. I'd seen it when changing sensor, but dismissed it as unlikely to cause issues (unlike water in there),;but I was dead wrong. It's a thing, have a look: Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf

I haven't looked at ours up close, but I was more thinking about the bottom edge.

5 wires is correct. It's a so-called wideband sensor that allows for finer control of fuelling than standard 4-wire versions If there's lots of oil about and you find it on the pins of the mating loom connector, make sure it's all cleaned off before fitting new sensor, or it may not work at all, or not for long.

No, it's a 'manicat' which the front pipe bolts to the bottom of. It'll be failed flexi, for sure. Someone at Pirtek might be able to help with the PAS pipe.

Possibly the sealing between windscreen and bodywork?

Sounds almost like immobiliser but can't imagine why that would only affect warm start. I think with low cranking speed it wouldn't start at all. Not sure on that though.

Yep, red light is oil pressure.

For oil pressure warning, disconnect the the single wire plug from the pressure switch and see if it has oil inside it. If it does that's a solid indicator of failed pressure switch.