Breezy_Pete

No, just the two. In that case maybe the shroud is missing over the intake orifice. Not sure mk2 is the same as mk1, will have a look on parts diagram next time I get up.

Leakage through the cabin air intake can only really happen if the scuttle drains are blocked.

I will check later on my test rig, but I think it's probably normal for you to see the voltages that you do there, until you start pushing/pulling the switches, at which point the voltages will decrease to either zero, or somewhere in between 11V and zero depending on which way and how far the switches are moved. You will probably find that the middle one and possibly the lower one of the three pins that you have measured at zero volts show a voltage if you put the car's lights on. That's the feed for the LED lighting of the switch panel. I've yet to see any motor modules that have gone intermittent because of brush/commutator problems. It's no doubt possible, but the usual failure is with the electronics module above the motor.

10mm length on the parts diagrams, could well be tapped deep enough for longer though. The heads usually corrode to buggery and might need chiselling round, but the threads are usually clean within the bearing carrier, in my limited experience.

Do you know whether it was manufactured before or after May 2004? According to wiring diagrams that's when the change from one to the other connector happened. Not sure if that does or doesn't coincide with when the Facelift happened?

This.

I see a positive in you being able to tell yourself and us what is really going on. I think taking steps is better than not taking steps, whatever direction they seem to be going at the time. Feel free to pop round and shoot me for exceeding decent limits of psychobabble.🙂

Someone needs to take a legal 'baseball bat' to this whole "never seen this before" horse****. So utterly disgraceful it needs punishing.

MOT isn't interested in the backplates, they can be completely absent from that point of view. Retaining screws are an M6 thread, 10 or 12mm long will be plenty I think.

@Tech1e is what I said above wrong then? I'm confused.

I'd say you need the kufatec wire and the original wire to both connect to the brake pedal switch connector. That's being used as the fused power source from fuse 28. Neither cruise nor original function of the brake pedal switch will work if the blue/red isn't connected.

Whichever type you buy, check whether or not the gaskets that seal it against the engine block are included. Would be annoying to assume they are, and then have to shop again if they aren't.

Interesting how different the aftermarket versus genuine price is on the full housings! Seems to have gone through a fair few revisions too, looking at the part numbers listed in grey near the top: Oil Filter Holder European Union 03L115389H (skoda-parts.com)

I think some recent versions have two EGR systems, high and low pressure. Lucky owners...😆

If the EGR was fed from post-DPF they wouldn't clog up with with soot like they do, I think? Not sure on such a recent engine/car to be honest.

I'm reasonably sure that any time the engine cuts out, for whatever reason, the battery light comes on. So blaming the alternator or battery seems to be excessively hasty guesses as to what may be amiss. Have you changed the crank sensor yet?

I reckon they might cave in quite quickly. 🤞

TKW describes how to have both brake and accelerator active quite early on page 1.

Have you tried just disconnecting (and blocking) the vac hose from the top of the EGR valve? That'll stop the valve ever opening. Not sure if it'll give a fault light on a 2002 ATD, easy to find out.

Cheers. 👍

Do you mind me asking if you have anything to declare in relation to electricity generation or supply? There's no denying that with high adoption of EVs and a charging/discharging system controllable centrally the National Grid and electricity generation/supply in general gets an incredible benefit.

Parts diagram and item numbers here: LLLParts Looking up all the possible item 8's (3V9827550 /A/B/C) on autodoc suggests they are all just under 600mm long. Do you have item 52 for each side? Those appear to be part of the gas-strut version, which may well not be present on your car?

Check the service booklet for a copy of the boot sticker.

Yes. One theory is that regulations to reduce harmful substances has resulted in paints that fail to protect the underlying metal surface so well as in 'days of old'. Once corrosion starts through/under the paint layer, the likelihood of cracks starting is greatly increased.

I very much doubt the same applies to a Yeti, but this is the 2-second coding change required on Polo 9N/Mk1 Fabia platform: VW Polo (9N) Central Electronics - Ross-Tech Wiki Can be done with VCDS Lite, probably even the unregistered version.