Hi all,

 

I'm after some tips for my first DIY service, I've got all the necessary tools and a set of ramps. I'll be getting the oil and parts from TPS as they are reasonable and are happy to serve private customers; think Quantum oil was around £23 last time I bought some for top-ups.

 

Not planning a major service yet as it's not yet needed, all that needs doing at the moment is an oil change & a change of all filters with the exception of the fuel filter.

 

Just for general background information, the car is nearly at 110k miles, other than the usual oil and general filter changes it has had: cambelt at 80k, fuel filter and new brake fluid at 90k, new brake shoes and cylinders (guess the brake fluid was replaced again) and gearbox oil at 100k. 

 

I'm reluctant to do any work on the brake system since it's my first time doing work like this but if you can let me know anything that I should be looking out for, it would be good - the front pads seems to have a fair amount left on them...

 

So, has anyone got any hints or tips/dos and don'ts etc? All will be much appreciated

Edited 17 August, 201510 yr by Dazza95

Don't over-tighten the sump plug when refitting, pre-oil the 'o' ring on the new oil filter and only do it up with your hand.

Don't over-tighten the sump plug when refitting, pre-oil the 'o' ring on the new oil filter and only do it up with your hand.

 

Guess what I did on Saturday FAIL! Still don't even know how I did it. :(

As above really. Not a lot to it.

 

I'd buy a new sump plug to save any issues with the thread - they're only a couple of quid. I bought a big pack of them on eBay for about a tenner! Torque to 30Nm (assuming your sump is made of aluminium like the vRS). If you go hanging off it then you'll soon strip the thread and be instantly in a world of pain like John above

 

Other than that just warm the car up properly before you drop the oil. Helps to get rid of all the crap when you drop it.

 

Whilst you're underneath the car it's probably a good idea to inspect the C.V. boots all-round for cracks and tears. Plus check the boots on the track rod ends and bottom ball joints. Check your wheels for play too. May as well do this - good practice! Although the car does sound like it's been fairly well serviced already

On a full DIY service when I first got the car I did...

 

-PD Oil, oil filter and new sump plug.
-Fuel filter.
-Air filter.
-Brake fluid.
-Reset the gear linkages, there is a guide on here somewhere. 
-Grease all the hinges and locks (bonnet, boot, front and rear doors). 
-Remove the wheels to clean up the arches, springs/struts (I usually use an old rag and some WD40 on the metal work) and the back of the alloys also get a good going over while they are off. 
-Remove the brake callipers and pads, clean everything up and re-grease the pins so the calliper moves nice and freely. I like to put a little copper grease on the contact surfaces between the back of the pad and the calliper to prevent pad sequel. Don't put too much on though!
-Check for any play in the suspension components and check the condition of the bushes and drop links. (my arb bushes and drop links were fairly shot! - used to knock and drive me mad but it's nice and quiet now they've been replaced).
-Run some FORTE Diesel Treatment through a full tank of fuel to help clean any crap out of the fuel system and keep that side of things tip top. 
-Scan for errors using VCDS lite, an interface cable and laptop.

 

Then it's just a case of keeping on top of it after that. I've got the cam-belt and water pump change due early next year but I'll bet letting the pro's tackle that one! 

Thanks for the all the help guys, I should be good to go this weekend

 

Re. gear linkages, I've already done this as I was finding it difficult getting into reverse.

When you get the filter, as Haynes says, get a full set of oil filter seals. Not just the ones in the filter box. I had one change done at a fast fit place ( got a price less than I'd pay for oil ,and the oil used was VW505.01. price was due to taking firms van fleet in for tyres). They ordered up filter ,changed it and got leaks. Till they ordered up and changed the seal not in filter box.

Thanks.

I've seen a few guides/videos where a turkey baster or vacuum pump is used to suck all the oil out of the oil filter housing once the old filter is removed. Is this really a necessary step?

If you want to go the whole hog you can remove the oil cooler and drain that too, though you'll likely need to replace the seal if you do this. Not really needed no, but it won't do any harm to give it as much of a clean out as you can. 

Thanks.

I've seen a few guides/videos where a turkey baster or vacuum pump is used to suck all the oil out of the oil filter housing once the old filter is removed. Is this really a necessary step?

 

No.

 

You'll find limitless and pointless idiocy if you trawl the interwebs long enough about anything.

 

You're really starting to overthink this, just crack on and get it done.

No.

You'll find limitless and pointless idiocy if you trawl the interwebs long enough about anything.

You're really starting to overthink this, just crack on and get it done.

Okay okay I know, I'll be doing it on Saturday. Hope it all works out OK with the lack of turkey baster

Get an oil change suction pump, had for bit more than a tenner in lidl/aldi, and then you don't even need to jack the car up.

Get an oil change suction pump, had for bit more than a tenner in lidl/aldi, and then you don't even need to jack the car up.

 

 

I've got one of these. Very handy for extra services in between regular oil changes, but I'd still stick to the good old tried and tested method for 10k services. As unfortunately the crap from the very bottom of the sump won't come out with the pump.

Okay okay I know, I'll be doing it on Saturday. Hope it all works out OK with the lack of turkey baster

 

Really, don't worry about doing this. It's not necessary! As long as you do frequent changes then all is good

Finally managed to get this done today. Everything went smoothly, all I've got to do now is dispose of the old oil. Thanks again for all your help.

How often do people replace their air filters? I know Skoda recommend every 40k but mine was rather dirty after 20k.

I usually change mine at every other service, but I check it after a year and take a hoover to the under side of it and the box to clear out any leaves and crap that's built up. I'm sure the neighbours must think I'm mad hoovering my engine bay haha.

I tend to do it each time. They're that cheap there's no reason not to.

 

If you're changing the fuel filter, start it with your foot down and drop to about half pedal for a minute or two to make sure the filters full.

Fuel filter is due next service, thought you had to prime the new filter with fresh diesel first?

Edited 7 September, 201510 yr by Dazza95

Fuel filter is due next service, thought you had to prime the new filter with fresh diesel first?

 

For anyone reading this, I can confirm I didn't need any fresh diesel. I just turned the ignition (not crank the engine) about 5 times and then started it after that. This worked first time without any cranking at all.

For anyone reading this, I can confirm I didn't need any fresh diesel. I just turned the ignition (not crank the engine) about 5 times and then started it after that. This worked first time without any cranking at all.

Wish I'd seen this as I could of confirmed it previously for you [emoji5]️

Turning the ignition also primes the oil and fuel pump, thus sending diesel into the filter (as long as you've put things back together properly [emoji6]).

JRJG

110k i would also be checkingall bushes particularly wishbone inner outer, upper inner, gearbox, dog mount, ( or visa versa) i would be draining the engine coolant and replacing, brake fluid change ( next change of discs/ pads) also check rear doors for leaks, and reseal if needed, gearbox oil, power steering fluid ... plenty to get on with :p

Edited 18 January, 201610 yr by FromTheDarkness

Just take your time. Make sure sump plug is fitted before you pour new oil in.easy to get carried away. Once engine oil is drained remove keys to stop you starting it up in a moment of madness.

Wish I'd seen this as I could of confirmed it previously for you [emoji5]️

Turning the ignition also primes the oil and fuel pump, thus sending diesel into the filter (as long as you've put things back together properly [emoji6]).

JRJG

I'm keen to find out how turning the ignition on primes the oil?

I'm keen to find out how turning the ignition on primes the oil?

Oil pump *

 

JRJG

Guess what I did on Saturday FAIL! Still don't even know how I did it. :(

I did that on my passat a few years ago, helicoiled the sump in situ , flushed several times . Never an issue again :-)

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