2 hours ago, Gizmo said:

LED’s should be 127% and normal bulbs 100%

Just tested it and theres no difference

14 hours ago, Gizmo said:

LED’s should be 127% and normal bulbs 100%

But does setting it to 127 with normal bulbs actually increase the PWM ratio and hence the effective voltage and bulb brightness?

 

Or does the BCM treat any values above 100 with normal bulbs as 100?

1 hour ago, PetrolDave said:

But does setting it to 127 with normal bulbs actually increase the PWM ratio and hence the effective voltage and bulb brightness?

 

Or does the BCM treat any values above 100 with normal bulbs as 100?

Well I read some post here on briskoda and the guy said if you set it above 100, it still counts it as it was 100

16 minutes ago, fat4l said:

Well I read some post here on briskoda and the guy said if you set it above 100, it still counts it as it was 100

But another post recently said that if you set it to 127 it increases the voltage and makes the halogen bulbs brighter?

 

So we've got conflicting information...

 

See this thread...

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/441927-has-anyone-fitted-h7-led/

Edited 13 February, 20197 yr by PetrolDave

1 minute ago, PetrolDave said:

But another post recently said that if you set it to 127 it increases the voltage and makes the halogen bulbs brighter?

 

So we've got conflicting information...

Hmm interesting.
I dont have any halogen bubls left in my car so I cant test but I can say for 100%, that with LED(oem) number plate leds there was no difference. At night I run the camera below the Leds, i set them to 10, there was a visible brightness difference(going from 100-10), then I set it back to 100, then to 127, and there was no difference between 100 and 127. So... But thats LEDs. I can maybe switch it back to halogen to see as I still have OEM halogen number plate lights too

I have the plate lights set at 70% for LED’s as I found the 100% brightness too high. I’ve never tested the difference between 100 and 127.

There is no difference between 127 and 90 - I noticed difference at 80 and kept it there, tho its still a little bit to bright.

Sasha or anyone, have you tried to enable "lashes" ? It doesnt seem to do anything in my car. b000

 

Also, for traffic signs ....did you need to code this too ? Some guides have this step and some dont. hmm

"display valid additional signs" and check if the value is 00100111

Edited 13 February, 20197 yr by fat4l

Is yours an FL? If not then it is just putting the ‘sidelights’ on with the DRL’s. I can’t remember the TSR coding sorry, been ages since I did it!

all done now but thanks

Regarding lashes...I think my sidelights come on with DRLs as standard. Hmmmm Should the behaviour be different ?

What MY do you have?

09 / 2016

Shouldn’t be that way, should be DRL strip, and then sidelights separately, then main beam. The only time the DRL’s and the sidelights should be on at the same time is when the sidelight position is selected on the switch.

Just to throw this into the mix I went to code my car in preparation for the led number plate lights arriving from Hortons skoda ( £12 each plus free postage for genuine skoda units) and it was already set for led and set to 127. Now if they are too bright I know I can lower the dimwert settings but is there a way to set them to come back up to full britnes when reverse is selected?

On 08/02/2019 at 16:44, Trust2k said:

Hi Sasha, great work :-)

 

Have you the menu for instrument cluster in your 9,2" Columbus?

 

That is why you must change to 3Q0 Gateway.

 

 

 

Hi, do you know if having the Columbus 9.2 is mandatory in order to have a working active info display?

When I spec a new Octavia  I can select it without Columbus. I don't really need the larger screen or the Navigation so just wandering if I can just simply change the virtual cockpit.

 

18 hours ago, SashaGrace said:

Shouldn’t be that way, should be DRL strip, and then sidelights separately, then main beam. The only time the DRL’s and the sidelights should be on at the same time is when the sidelight position is selected on the switch.

I just checked it and I can say my sidelights are lit all the time

Not sure why but maybe because I changed them to LED cree ones which are canbus and they dont cause any errors but I did not program it as "led type" and left it how it was before with halogen. THeres something in my head it was the way you said when I had the old halogen bulbs there but since I changed them I did lots of coding so its either one of the two: 1. some other changes made these W5Ws to be on all the time or 2. it caused by swapping the bulbs to led ones and not coding it. I will see into it !

PS: for everyone: do we really need to code LED type bulbs if the LED bulbs we put in are canbus and dont cause any errors ? Why ?
PS2: has anyone coded front and rear indicator bulbs ? (yes I finnaly changed the front indicator bubls omgggg that was hard!) Do you know the coding/which lauchte** it is  ?
PS3: I also have both rear FOG LED bubls enabled. If im right the channel for these is Leuchte26NSL  and Leuchte27NSL right ?
 

CAN (Controller Area Network) does not operate any bulbs or LED's, it is a Message Protocol. 

What happens is the Output from the ECU is monitored to ensure the Current Consumption is as expected, for a 21W Incandescent bulb this would be approx 1.4A and for a 55W this would be approx. 4.2A. If, when the Output is enabled, the Current isn't as expect then the Module will generate an Error Code (DTC). The resultant Error code is broadcast over the CAN and different modules connected to the CAN will respond in different ways.

When you Select Bulb or LED then what you are doing is telling the Module that 1.4A for a Healthy 21W Bulb should be 0.2A instead. You are just changing the Parameters for Fault detection.

What you are getting with CANBUS LEDs is a device with a Resistor or other load in Parallel with the LED drawing the extra current to trick the Fault Monitoring into thinking it is an Incandescent Bulb.

Yes exactly so the question is if we get no errors do we then need to set the bulb to led?

3 hours ago, fat4l said:

PS2: has anyone coded front and rear indicator bulbs ? (yes I finnaly changed the front indicator bubls omgggg that was hard!) Do you know the coding/which lauchte** it is  ?
PS3: I also have both rear FOG LED bubls enabled. If im right the channel for these is Leuchte26NSL  and Leuchte27NSL right ?
 

 

You'll need Google translate but this could be of interest: https://vwts.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=244504&st=20&#entry3720683

Oh well it should be Leuchte 18 , 19, and 0 and 1. I will test it tho tomorrow

Hello Guys,

I am new to this forum, I just purchased a second hand 2015 Octavia VRS Challenge.

Sadly it is fitted with the smaller Bolero system - now I am looking for ways to upgrade it to a bigger and better resolution screen (I guess it's called Columbus).

Apologies for being a rookie in this topic, this is really a new territory for me.

I would really appreciate any advises, suggestions, useful links related to upgrading the Bolero system to a better one.

 

I am residing in Dubai, United Arab Emirates - so the maps might be a problem here. Is there any system that supports MirrorLink or Android Auto perhaps?

 

Attached are a few pics of the new baby.

Wishing a safe and fun driving to all forum members and many thanks for your help in advance!

 

Balazs

Have a look at @SashaGrace post about her car as she has done this already. I bought her previous larger screen from her also and for me it was a plug and play as already had the apple car play and sat nav. I literally just wanted a bigger screen. 

8 minutes ago, Madmax889 said:

Have a look at @SashaGrace post about her car as she has done this already. I bought her previous larger screen from her also and for me it was a plug and play as already had the apple car play and sat nav. I literally just wanted a bigger screen. 

Thank you so much! I will definitely have a look at what you have suggested! Cheers!

@BalageCserne you are already here!!  I don’t know about UAE mapping sadly as this seems to be much better documented in Europe but it’s certianly doable. Just depends on what you can get in your region and what you want to spend. I’ve done MIB1 Bolero to MIB2 Amundsen and now MIB2 Amundsen to MIB2.5 Columbus. I definitely recommend the MIB2 Amundsen if you just want SmartLink. If you want the WLAN to work and you want to keep the CD drive then you may want to look at a Columbus which also runs an 8 inch screen. The newest Columbus like mine has a 9.2 inch screen with no buttons

On 14/02/2019 at 09:56, ccosmin said:

 

 

Hi, do you know if having the Columbus 9.2 is mandatory in order to have a working active info display?

When I spec a new Octavia  I can select it without Columbus. I don't really need the larger screen or the Navigation so just wandering if I can just simply change the virtual cockpit.

 

The display works without the Columbus, I had it running with my MIB2 Amundsen and it would even work with a MIB1. You just won’t get image transfer or nav. Look back through this thread and you can see the videos and images of when it was first installed with the old radio and that’s the functionality you will be getting.