Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0TDI (CUPA EA288) high oil consumption

[ChoonDoode]

considering you've gone to the trouble of pulling the engine out, I'd be replacing quite a few parts. As long as it doesn't cost stupid money.

 

If there is an issue with the rings, are the bores damaged in any way?

[CristianCCI]

How worn are the pistons skirt? I saw similar engine to ours dismantled and there was no more teflon on them. Also scratches on the cylinder walls. (about 270k km) 

My engine (220k km), everything was fine, except piston rings. Wear on the cylinders was even, normal. 

I now have 20k km since engine replacement, and the oil consumption is about 500ml per 10k km. But I also have a small issue, when I sent the cylinder head for recondition, they messed up some valve seal rings during assembly, and I have white smoke at engine startup. No more smoke whatsoever afterwards. Pretty frustrating, but will be fixed soon.

 

 

 

 

[TadyTheFish]

I ordered new 

- Head gasket

- Head bolts

- Head module bolts (18pcs)

- piston rings

- conrod bearings + bolts

- main bearings + bolts

- thrust bearings

- crank seals

- cam seals

- charge cooler gasket

- exhaus gasket

- oil pump belt

- oil pump seals

- injector seals

- injector bolts

- and other bits and peaces

I'm not changing the main blet and punp since I changed them 8k ago (the pump was leaking) but I didn't have the money to rebuild

 

The bores are not scratched but they need honing. The cross hatches are bearly visible. The piston skitrs are ok. They show some sign of use but nothing scary. I don't have experience with these things but I showed them to 3 mechanics that are my friends and they all say they can be reused. I need to clean them 

 

[classic]

14 hours ago, TadyTheFish said:

I ordered new 

- Head gasket

- Head bolts

- Head module bolts (18pcs)

- piston rings

- conrod bearings + bolts

- main bearings + bolts

- thrust bearings

- crank seals

- cam seals

- charge cooler gasket

- exhaus gasket

- oil pump belt

- oil pump seals

- injector seals

- injector bolts

- and other bits and peaces

I'm not changing the main blet and punp since I changed them 8k ago (the pump was leaking) but I didn't have the money to rebuild

 

The bores are not scratched but they need honing. The cross hatches are bearly visible. The piston skitrs are ok. They show some sign of use but nothing scary. I don't have experience with these things but I showed them to 3 mechanics that are my friends and they all say they can be reused. I need to clean them 

 

Good luck, that is a big job to do.

I remember when I was brave enough to do these things !

[TadyTheFish]

Hahaha.. Thank you.. Fingers crossed 

[Cap44]

The last engine I rebuilt was a Jaguar V12 and was a piece of **** compared to that TDi lump. Good Effort !!! 

[TadyTheFish]

🙈🙈🙈🤣🤣🤣 What was so bad about it

[Cap44]

17 hours ago, TadyTheFish said:

🙈🙈🙈🤣🤣🤣 What was so bad about it

nothing about the V12  Just wiring to the ign system, alternator, starter. 1 petrol pipe for 4 carburetter's.

I open the bonnet on my VRS  scratch my arse & close it.  Even paid a garage to change a turbo last year, 1st time ive ever paid a garage to do anything  ever & im 78 now 

[TadyTheFish]

Did any of you hone the cylinders? I want to hone mine since the crosshatches ar kinda blurred but I need to take out the oil sprays and to do that I need to take out the crank shaft, but the problem is that the balancing shafts don't have any markings on them. Then I got a service manual for a Seat with the 184Hp engine and it says that the crankshaft should not be removed??? 

How am I going to take out the sprays and change the main bearings? 

[classic]

I don’t know the answer. I believe there may be special tools required to fit the rear main oil seal and crank position sensor.

My only suggestion is to register with Erwin and download the workshop manual. Costs about 7€ to get 1 hour access and you can download as much as you like in that time.

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showLogin.do

[TadyTheFish]

I know about the rear swal and the sender wheel. It can be done without the tool. I'm asking about the balancing shafts. 😁

[classic]

5 minutes ago, TadyTheFish said:

I know about the rear swal and the sender wheel. It can be done without the tool. I'm asking about the balancing shafts. 😁

See the actual workshop manual is my advice 😬.

Balance shafts on other engines I have worked on have had timing marks, a special tool or simply been aligned level with each other depending on the manufacturer - in this case it was obvious even one tooth out that they weren’t level (these were big engines though).

[TadyTheFish]

Thank you. I will check the manual 👌👌😁

[TadyTheFish]

Sooo here is the thing. The balancig shafts and the crankshaft sprocket don't have any markings, the manual for the Seat (184hp engine) says that the cranckshaft should not be removed. So if you want to pull out the crank you need to mark everything down. I didn't do that. I left the oil sprays in and honed the cylinders carefully. The botom part of the engine is complete, now I'm waiting for my friend to finish the head (new seals, clean the ports an valves and check the flatness of the head) 

Now I need some info on the tightening of the head bolts. Haynes manual says 

- 30Nm

- 70Nm

- 90°

- 90°

- 90°

 

But the Seat manual for the same engine says

- 30Nm

- 65Nm

- 90°

- 90°

 

Any advice? I woild rather tighten per Haynes instructions but 3x 90° is kinda alot. I'm affraid I'm honna break the bolts or even pull out the threads?? 

Thank you

[T07]

[langers2k]

@TadyTheFish - it appears Skoda changed their guidance at some point based on the snippet from the 10.2013 manual posted by @T07 above and the same section from a 04.2020 edition.

 

Personally, I'd go with the latest version but even this is now 3 years old:

 

Might be worth an hour on erwin to get the latest version. It's only €7 + tax normally

[varooom]

58 minutes ago, langers2k said:

@TadyTheFish - it appears Skoda changed their guidance at some point based on the snippet from the 10.2013 manual posted by @T07 above and the same section from a 04.2020 edition.

 

Personally, I'd go with the latest version but even this is now 3 years old:

 

Might be worth an hour on erwin to get the latest version. It's only €7 + tax normally

I got the latest copies in 11.2022 downloaded, and the date of the information is still the same as your posted 04.2020.

Unless you need more information from the documents, @TadyTheFish then nothing new has been added.

[TadyTheFish]

So the latest info is 30Nm,70Nm and 3x 90° ? kinda big jump in tightening force don't you think?

[marfan]

The change was probably due to the fact that there was a problem with cracked gaskets under the head.

 

Btw Seat have only CUNA engine, no CUPA, but rathe the same engine. 

 

What was your oil consumption ? 

 

 

[TadyTheFish]

What is the difference between Cupa and Cuna?  

Max to min (1L i think) per 500km of highway. 

Btw how do I upload images? I could do it before but now the limit is only 436.71kb???

[TadyTheFish]

Ahhh the attachement quota is full 🤦‍♂️ anyway to reset it or increase the limit? 

[fr1nklyn]

On 14/03/2023 at 20:13, TadyTheFish said:

What is the difference between Cupa and Cuna?  

 

Btw how do I upload images? I could do it before but now the limit is only 436.71kb???

Maybe you filled in your account storage capacity of 1GB? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

The difference between CUPA and CUNA is the emissions standard: CUPA is Euro 5 whereas CUNA is Euro 6. Maybe the latter's oil rings are more tolerant to longer oil change intervals.

[BogdanB]

As far as I know, CUNA also has 2 EGRS. Both low and high pressure.

[TadyTheFish]

Well the engine is in but it does not start🤦‍♂️ when starting it wants to start at first then it just cranks. Any advice? 

I first need to check the compression. The second idea is the timing. The cam an crank and pump are spot on the factory marks any my markings so the only thing that remains a mistery if the sender wheel that I changed with the seal under the flywheel. I did check that the hole is vertical when 1st cylinder is at TDC

Is there a way to check this via VCDS? 

I didn't have the special tools for mounting the sender wheel but I did mark down the old one and new one and refitted and the hole aligns to the mark on the housing when at TDC

If the compression is good the easyest way would be to trace the signals from cam an crank and compare with a working engine? 

Edited 17 March, 2023 by TadyTheFish

[TadyTheFish]

Whell... No compression.. 13bar,14bar,12.5 bar, 13bar. Tripple checked the timing and it is spot on