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Interesting about the conversion to a different pump, I’m defo going to look into that. Thanks

Steve that is brilliant, thank you. I’ve not played with diesel much but these few things you’ve pointed out will keep me busy for a while. My only question is where/what is the stop valve is?

hi

I have this exact issue now booked in next week with a vag specialist it’s driving me around the bend hoping it’s a bearing and nothing more serious.

interesting

aha hope you get help soon

hope you get it

what is this

nteresting

any fix on this plse. having same problem

Hi all so I’ve had my mk 2 vrs for around 4 weeks now and I have got a whirring sound from underneath somewhere whilst driving I have it going into a vag specialist on Wednesday for diagnosis which will cost me £100 up front before any repair work. The sound comes at all speeds as soon as the car is moving and it is there in gear and when the car free wheels out of gear. The sound doesn’t go away or change at all it just sound louder obviously if I take my foot off the gas. Weaving side to side it doesn’t change either making me think it may not be a bearing and something more sinister a mechanic that I know said maybe gearbox bearings. What are people’s thoughts on this and are there any other common faults that the mk 2 has that could cause this. Any help is appreciated 🙏🏻

We went for a test drive with Diags running, all timing parameters were good. Cylinder 4 is cutting out occasionally under load. I will fit new plugs and see if its fixed. Bizarre coincidence it started immediately after fitting timing chain kit. Thanks to all who contributed.

@pab567 i cant contact you on dm, but im interested in a skoda fabia carplay unit

did you find the cause of these error msgs. im having same issue after having new alternator fitted. im getting headlight range error, esc error, stop/start error park pilot error. driving me mad. no faults according to diagnostic

Getting worse in France reported and now up to 15% of pumps out.....

2014 Octavia scout Recently flashing glow plug light / engine management light + limp mode Showing codes p048a / p048f exhaust pressure valve How are they to get off and clean / free off

I've read somewhere that it remembers progress and continues each time you drive. First day i've tried a "trick" to keep infotainment turned on while car is parked (open and close drivers door every 15 minutes), and using this method I've updated 23.11 to 26.2 in 1 hour I think. Tried two days in a row for at least two hours. Each day I have at least 1 hour of driving, and today my last drive was 45 minutes.

Alasdair has a point - could also be the play in the driveshaft as you accelerate and engine-brake.

Thank you. A bit of a shame but, as you say, the LED door strips double up. Much appreciated.

@GaryM1308 Check the switch assembly with the memory switches (1, 2, 3 and set). Due to its position a lot of dirt falls into it. Simply unclip the assembly, disconnect it and measure the power draw without these switches. I've fixed mine by completely disassembling, cleaning and reassembling it. (But I had slightly different symptoms, odd seat movement behavior). Other possible suspect is the seat heating. Its controllers are positioned at the very lowest position of the car, in a recess in the bottom below the seats. If you ever had a bit of water in the interior, than these controllers are the first to catch that water and fail.

@pab567 My swing version is MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P7130L , 8395. Could you please send me the link to the newest version? Thank you in advance

I am running software 1985 and have just updated the maps to 26.6 during a 30 minute drive. How long were you driving for as I think the whole update has to be done in a single journey?

That's falrly accurate, there weren't any turbo diesels in the Skoda Felicia car or Pickup, only the VW Caddy/ Seat Inca Van. Do you know if it's a D or an SDI (should say on the boot)? The thing I would say though is never trust someone else's diagnosis. Daft stuff first, see if it's smoking out the exhaust when you turn it over, if it is, it's getting fuel in the cylinders. Check the cambelt isn't snapped. Give it a blast of brake cleaner down the air intake while someone turns it over. Make sure the stop valve is working, if you put your little finger on it, you should feel a little click as the ignition goes on and off. The stop valve should have 12v to it with the ignition on, if in doubt, take it out, remove the plunger and stick it back in (you might then need to stall the car to stop the engine if it's a D). Then I'd start by doing a leak off test. unplug the return hoses from the injectors, find some hose the right size and run them between the outlets on the injectors and 4 containers the same size (500ml pop bottles work well). Make sure there's diesel in the car and at the filter and spin it over. If you get a lot of fuel in a container. That injector's probably knacked. If you get a dribble into the container, things are probably OK, particularly if they're all the same level. If you don't get any, either it's out of fuel, the pump isn't pumping, or fuel the system needs bleeding. After that, go with whatever you've got a tester for, be it fuel pressure, compression. If it's solid, I'd go for it anyway, diesels aren't difficult. Worst case, it's got poor compression so it'll be easier to put an engine on. SDI's are easy to find, the older D's are getting a bit scarce.

They're just reflectors. The LED light strips at the top of the doors light up red when the doors are open.