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Skoda again

1) It was not "BS". I knew the person and the daily driving that he was doing with classified documents. It was a huge mileage. 2) Please don't use expressions similar to "sounds like BS" on BRISKODA's forums. 3) Don't cast doubts on the accuracy of my postings by using expressions similar to "sounds like BS" when replying to my postings.

Further entry courtesy of serdar_18fr on the Cupra side altering the country to TUR gives Turkey https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_TUR_202612_Offline_Update.zip I guess you can use this trick on the other missing countries on the list for RoW.

I found - with the typical poorly designed workflow runarounds - the Spanish motor vehicle division's search page for recalls. As of now, it shows no recall for my car. Yo dije que cualquier lado donde yo asiento es el correcto, no dije que me assiente en cualquier lugar ... :what, there's no :GrouchMarx face emoji in this web board system??

Yes I think you’re right but worth a check!

Nope, I don't do socials at all. 🙈 I did though a short review sponsored by Porsche Albania dealer. You won't understand much but you can enjoy the car with its external upgrades (H&R, maxton skirts and Audi RS wheels)

Hi Binx, it's only about 3 years old, purchased from Tayna. I think the shudder is what's the causing the lights to appear.I will suggest to the garage when it goes in to check the battery. Thanks

Not sure on the shudder but that collection of lights usually means a communication issue between control modules, which is commonly caused by low battery voltage. How new is the battery?

700 miles in a day driving would be 14 hours or more. Sounds like BS if the car / vehicle has one driver. Taxis might well be doing that with more than one driver.

I believe I have seen someone on another post on here someone state that the lock has some relatively poor quality internal switches which detect the state. I would think swapping out the latch mechanism is probably the solution. I have a copy of the workshop manuals I can share if you need the instructions.

Thanks Gaz. Appreciated. No boroscope but I think pretty sound reasoning, sadly. That said, I'd be delighted to be wrong so I'll lay it all out here. (And if someone wants to buy it as-is, I want to do it honestly and not screw the next guy over.) The car felt fine but kept going into limp home mode on longer journeys with rev restriction to 4000rpm. I took it to my regular independent who's looked after me over the years, had it traced to oil pressure switch 3, had a coolant regulator valve fixed. It kept happening and my usual garage couldn't find a cause. I noticed the engine oil temperature would reach 110C and the warning would be triggered. I took it to a local independent specialist who serviced it, noticed: "Fault found with oil pressure switch 3, p168d00, checked tpi's and none applicable. Carried thorough test plan and unable to fault and states system has no defect. Removed oil filter housing and found debris within filter. Advise oil and filter change and oil set at correct level and advise customer to monitor as fault is only sporadic". They estimated £390+VAT to pull the engine apart to find more of a cause so I took it to a 3rd garage, another independent specialist: "Checked fault codes found code P000A camshaft position sensor A component sluggish. This code together with the history of swarf in the oil and P168D oil pressure switch code is a sure sign that the oil pressure to the camshaft adjusters is dropping. As this is happening when the engine is at operating temperature I would suspect that components inside the engine are worn to a point where oil is leaking past excessively once the oil thins at temperature. This will be causing the oil pressure to drop and the code to log. It will also have a snowball effect as more wear happens the oil contains more swarm that causes more wear. The only reasonable solution at this point is a complete engine replacement or engine rebuild. Including a new oil pump, oil cooler and turbocharger oil feed and return lines." So it's pretty damning. Oddly, if it weren't for the restriction on max revs I wouldn't know- it isn't rattling and feels like it drives fine. There aren't any warning lights in between, only after it gets up to higher temps and the warnings go away when it's cooled down again.

Amazing!. What a great car!

I did 5 to 6 speed gearbox swap for my 2002 Mk1 Octavia TDI after a couple years ownership from new. Aside from the gearbox including gear selector on top, reverse switch and speed sensor, you will need matching gearbox mount and its console, dogbone mount, driveshafts, flywheel and clutch including slave cylinder and related piping, and a whole lot of new bolts as a lot are stretch bolts. Ironically, the gear lever and linkage fitted both old 5-spd and new 6-spd, so I did not bother replacing the gearstick nor linkage and had a "secret" 6th gear for the life of the car, ie still 5 gears+ reverse printed on the gearstick yet the 6th could be selected. Aside from this, the airco piping is usually different between 5 and 6 speed gearboxes, but I was able to get round this by fabricating an additional mount (just a small piece of steel bar with a couple holes). Speed sensor needed adaptation somewhere using VCDS, but the difference was not massive. In summary, it was quite a bit of hassle getting all the parts and then a half day of work. For me, the reduced revs on motorway were worth it though, both for comfort and for fuel bill. At least at autobahn speeds of 100mph+ I estimated that the saved fuel has more than paid for the outlay on gearbox swap over the 80k or so autobahn miles. Note at UK motorway speeds the fuel saving would likely be minimal, and at current diesel prices at least it makes financial sense to go slow anyway. Also note that this was 22 years ago, and since then Adblue injection and engine cooling layout changes went in, so there may be other parts that interfere and may need replacement. HTH

@Scratch You need to reset SmartLink to factory settings through setup. @ovidex You don't need to remove board, just remove cover.

Emergency - Esc fault on the dash, saying take car to workshop. Map detail disappearing leavimg just the car icon on a blank screen. message saying smart road sign not functioning or something like that, it didn't stay on long enough to see it all. Booming/Echoing in the cabin. When driving I felt I was fighting the car.

Got the rest of the axle painted roughly in hammerite black. It still needs more time to set up, but in the meantime I squitted this out of my tiny cricut as a stencil for the yellow paint I got. It's sticky backed stuff, so i should be able to slap it on the axle, mash around it and go to town for a few coats of yellow. Hopefully that will produce sharp enough text to be readable after 50,000 miles. After it's coloured in, I'll shove some top clear coat over it to try and protect it a bit.

I wouldn’t be so sure - there’s a reason we call them “Stealers” over here! By the sounds of it, it’s not a faulty fastener, per se, but one that hasn’t had the correct treatment. I think if it was a serious issue, they would be a bit more proactive. Over here, we can check the UK Government website for our MOT (your ITV test) and check for any recalls on our vehicles - maybe you have something similar? Eso incluye sentarse junto a un tornillo oxidado? ;)

Hello, it seems that I can't connect the chip. I can't manage to remove the board from the chassis and a I can't connect while the board is still on. Any suggestions would be appreciated on how the remove the board. Thanks

Sorry, all went automatically for me. 🤷‍♂️

There’s no oil around it, but my previous car—a Renault Megane—had a mount like that too; it was soft and wobbly, whereas it had been firm when new. The Škoda is 7 years old and has 100,000 km on it.

Afternoon all, My 2016 Superb started a slight shudder when driving normally and has subsequently got worse. Now when it shudders various dash lights come on, systems say not functions, ACC, Park Assist, Tyre Pressure Warning etc and the car goes into limp mode. Had to pull over, with the car off and then back on to clear the issue. Was infrequent but became regular. Went to my local VAG specialist who checked the fault codes and said the code related to wires down the side of the engine may be causing a short, which he checked and confirmed was ok. Had a really noisy grumbling mass clutch flywheel, has done 128K, garage said could be the speed sensor on the clutch assembly causing issues, so suggested a new clutch pack. New clutch pack fitted this week, but fault remains. Sat idling this week, engine switched off, then back on, did this twice. Car shudder and lights on twice today, cleared by swiping off and on. Suspect a return visit to the garage, but think they may be struggling. Anyone experienced this before, any ideas or suggestions on what may be the cause would be welcomed. Many thanks in advance Tony

It's difficult when you have elderly parents and one of them makes stuff up all the time instead of looking properly and giving you the right information.

This pipe you had picture is big one from PCV valve to intake. Tiny pipe on my pic is one that cracks and only on part where is ribbed, go to your friend to take it of engine, and repair part that have leaks. I uset rubber tape, for me best material, go to 90°C. New pipe is 170€ in skoda-parts

This thread has contains a nice guide from one user for how to do it and where you can download the FW files from... From memory there was another dedicated thread to this update but I can't seem to find it. The most important is to know the firmware you have and how many steps you need to get to the latest one. You also need a tool like OB11 or VCDS which can send the confirmation code after the firmware update... If I understand correctly, this last part is not mandatory but it will remove a permanent fault from the infotainment unit about the update.

That's one heck of an increase! Thinking out loud - not had any recent work done on the car? MoT? - my cars always dip once back from MoT, and either slowly recover, or come back if I remember to reset the values. Does it smell like it's running rich? I'd have thought an injector fault would throw up a code. You mention drag - does it feel like it's labouring? No changes in temperatures? Agree with others about confirming it by fill-up quantities and mileage covered to get an exact figure. I use Fuelly, which works well for me. Mysterious 🤨 - will be interesting to know what's up. Gaz