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Hi, welcome to the forum. There are lots of posts over the years about water ingress so worth doing some searches. And if you resolve the problem it is always helpful to post what you found and how you cured it as it may help others. I'm not an expert so what follows is what I've picked up from other members over the years, If you have a sun roof don't rule that out. There are a lot of posts on this forum and elsewhere about the chassis that holds the sun roof cracking and that allows water to drain into the car - we did have extremely heavy rain recently. There are suggestions of d-i-y fixes using Capt Tolley's sealant but with variable success and no indication of whether it gives a permanent fix or just a temporary breathing space. On older cars the consensus was moving to sealing the sunroof so it can't open but at least gives a waterproof glass lid that lets the sun in. If you don't have a sunroof you can breathe a sigh of relief as replacements are wallet straining. From what you describe I'd be thinking along your lines - someone's interfered with the aircon and immediately after that you have a problem. Bit gross I know but did you sniff/taste to see whether the liquid in the well was likely to be water or something containing chemical compounds? It might have helped reduce down the options of what the problem could be. As you've been able to partially dry the carpets unfortunately that's not an option now but if the water keeps coming in worth thinking about. On the cars with sunroofs there are four drain tubes that run down the corners of the car. I'm not sure if they are there on cars without sunroofs but someone may be able to help with that. There have in the past been reports of these getting blocked and water getting into the car. From memory a common suggestion was to carefully thread a long thin cable from the accessible outlet holes at the bottom up the tubes to dislodge any debris. I say carefully as you don't want to puncture a tube part of the way up and make matters worse. (Just a though but these days you can buy endoscopes for a few pounds on eBay; don't bother with the ones that use your smartphone, they are usually rubbish. Possibly they are narrow enough to fit in the tube and feed up and see if there is an obstruction. The tubes are, I think, around 2m long so you'd need a "snake" at least that and maybe a bit more. If it fits not only would it let you see if there is an obstruction but also the head is unlikely to snag the rubber of the hose. There is an irony here - I had one with a 5m snake and found it clumsy to use so recently gave it to a charity shop when I bought one with a more manageable 1m "snake". I hope i don't live to regret it). Sorry I can't be more help but unfortunately most of the really clever guys that knew their Yetis inside out have moved onto new marques and models taking their expertise with them but you might be lucky because occasional one or two look into the forum and post replies. Good luck.

Hey! Currently doing subwoofer wiring and I was wondering, where would be the best place to put my subwoofer remote wire. I would prefer to keep it in the boot of the car. If you guys have any experience, let me know.

When relative engine power is considered, it was pretty common in the past for a private taxi to have a 2 litre NA engine - a modern 1.0TSI easily matches that!

Our local taxis drive a lot of octavias. Reckon every second one is one. Last one I was in was a 1.0tsi and taxi driver said it was excellent. I too was really surprised when he said it was only a 1.0 litre. It felt like my 1.6tdi Alasdair

Could be a broken rear spring if it sounds metalic/clacky. Had one that the pig tail broke off an was bouncing around in bottom of swing arm on my octavia. It was difficult to see but worth a check. Not sure if the fabia mk4 has rear drop links as well. If worn they will give a similar clack clack sound. On the Octavia rear spring is easy to do. Alasdair

I have seen the flap actuator and it is fairly low down, behind the lower glovebox, close to the LH side of the car. It seems that mine still works, but it makes a light tapping noise when I first start the car, for about 20 secs and a much louder tapping when recirculation is selected, again for 20 secs. I've got used to it. I would like to fix it and came to the conclusion that the easiest approach would be to use a Dremel to cut out a section at the rear of the lower glovebox, but I never seem to get round to attempting it, partly due to having 3 other old cars, all requiring attention! The Skoda is used intermittently. If I do the job, I'll then replace the cut out section by attaching a flange to the edge of it, so that it can be screwed or maybe clipped back in. With the lid closed, it won't show. I'll post again if I get it done. It's a silly design!

Hi, new here. Skoda Yeti 2014 2.0 diesel (170bhp) 4wd. In the last few days I have noticed small amounts of water on top of the rubber floor mats, front and rear O/S. It was noticed first in the rear footwell but yesterday it was very evident in the drivers footwell. Warm fine day, so used the air con and noticed the water amount had increased. When we got home I removed the rubber mats and the carpets were extremely wet. We had to place old towels on the floor, stand on them (water rising visibly under pressure), wring out towels (soaking wet) and repeat many times until too tired to continue - will resume today. Thoughts were, blocked drainage under windscreen (will check) but more likely air con drainage issue, particularly as using the air con made the problem noticeably worse. I drove the car into the garage and turned the air con on for 3 or 4 minutes - no sign of any water dripping onto the floor. Recent events that may be relevant:- had an air con check at Kwik Fit several weeks ago and we noticed the mechanic jump, exclaim, accompanied by loud hiss of escaping gas. they said the pressure was OK and we left but immediately noticed the air con was noisy. Returned and they reluctantly agreed all wasn't right and re-gassed free of charge. Could the drain tube have been damaged? Also, a couple of weeks ago the Garage removed the engine tray to fix a leaking oil filter, could they have kinked/trapped the air con drain tube? Sorry it's a long post, will appreciate any advice.

Even with the advances in engines these days I think you'll find that if you ever travel fully loaded with passengers and luggage the car will struggle. A car may appear nippy when it's just yourself driving (the default situation for many cars) but if you have the opportunity, try a test drive "fully loaded" to see how suitable a workhorse it may be.

Upgrade Carplay and retain the 6CD system（RCD510）

43 for sale in FM Hutchings auction on 12/9/26

Would also be interested to hear from any new/recent owners of any Elroq 85 if they have the 84kwh battery (think that is now standard on MY27 versions?) and if they ended up with crappy I mean not so good Giti branded tyres?

I have just ventured into this and through a voyage of discovery, have found you can take the top glove box out without too much trouble. Unfortunately it achieves nothing, no access to the offending item. I have a 2010 mk2 Skoda Fabia and the only way to access the actuator, is by removing the whole dash. The glove box in my car is integral to the dash. The flap motor in my case, is under the passenger air bag, in the top left corner. There is little information about the task, I now know why.

Unhappy Swan............... Not a bad sunset earlier...............

Skoda fabia IV 2024 31k miles. When driven over any slight bump in the road there is a clunky noise/rattle coming from the nearside rear. This includes potholes, speed bumps and uneven roads. Sometimes the noise sounds squeaky but sometimes it’s like a metal clunk. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what was it as i’m trying to repair things myself and wondering if this could be done without taking it to a dealership

Well blow me down! I've been driving the Fabia quite a bit more just lately and continuing to enjoy it, though the ride can be a bit firm when only two up on poor roads, even though we stuck with the smallest wheels available, probably not helped by the energy efficient tyres which I assume have stiffer sidewalls? Also smaller cars tend to be more firmly sprung to be able to cope with the varying load of one to four/five people which is a greater percentage of the weight of a small car than it of a big car. The suspension in my son's Mazda 2 is also quite firm. Anyway, I digress. Couple of days ago my wife looked in the glovebox when I was driving and low and behold a Skoda umbrella! The car is coming upto 3 years old now and in mitigation we rarely use the gloveboxes in any of our cars. Maybe I had looked in the glovebox and saw the umbrella when we first got it and thought it better left in there and I'd forgotten?

Sorry.. No cigar for that guess...

Yes, we accept that it is possible on a good day with the right conditions and the right support just as this diesel powered Skoda Superb managed to drive for 1,759 on one tank of fuel and it set a Guinness World Records record. Record-Breaking Skoda Does 1,759 Miles on a Single Tank Greatest distance driven on a single tank of fuel | Guinness World Records

Guessing a Chrysler Voyager 🤷 A bloke I know here who has one, not sure what spec, but he uses it on the Autobahns a lot transporting antique furniture.

Bingo... A C3 Picasso that seems to have had quite a hard life... Is version number one. Version number two arrives tomorrow

5Q0 and 2Q0 radars have different mounting positions and, consequently, different brackets. With the 2Q0, you would normally have to buy and install different brackets. The 3D-printed part saves you from having to do that, allowing you to use the OEM 5Q0 bracket instead. It’s a great solution from @Cairus.

****röen Picasso. Can guarantee that if you're in a hot country the AC will be on the fritz 🤣

25 years of the Superb https://www.irishexaminer.com/motoring/arid-41906230.html

Ok there'll be two versions of this hire car as we've discovered the one we have which is named after a famous painter is falling apart and has non-working A/C which isn't nice in these temps and when we have a heat warning for 36 tomorrow. So we're getting an upgrade to an American Group F

My DRL kit arrived from AliExpress so using a spare headlight for cheap I first removed the lens by taking the clips off and then warming the sealant using a hairdryer, Then removed the 100 screws and the plastic strip, which is clipped in place, I also removed the LED module, you can see of the old strip the melting that had caused the yellowing, Using the reverse of taking it apart put it back together and tested it, Good result, just need to clean the inside of the light and refit the lens with some new butyl seal which will involve baking the light in the oven once the seal is in place then squeezing the lens back on and refitting the clips. A small but satisfying win.

Set of four alloys from a 2013 Skoda Superb Elegance. Part number 3T0601025E Style name Themisto Size 7.5J x 18 Offset ET46 PCD 5x112 Also the spare wheel with retaining nut and polystyrene insert. We bought the car as an ex-demo so it has always been always owned by us. In around 2015 we replaced the wheels and tyres with 16 inch steels as we wanted a softer ride. These wheels have been stored in an ISO container ever since. The car has now been written off so these are of no use to us. The tyres have reasonable tread and appear okay but because of their age (2015) it might be safest to assume they are beyond their serviceable life. There appear to be some minor scuff marks, but please judge the condition for yourself from the photos. We are in North Wales and I don’t want to courier these etc so be prepared to come and get them. £200