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17911 will certainly be a broken wire one side or other of the black 2-way connector pair on the bracket near starter motor. Access from beneath. That doesn't tend to put fault lights on other than ASR warning light 10 mins after startup, where fitted. Fuel temp sender is at front of engine, high up, I seem to remember.

Start with simple things; wheel nuts tight? Tyre pressures correct? Intermittent faults hard to diagnose. Discs don't warp - commonly it's pad material transfer to the disc. Hard braking followed by holding the brake on is how that happens. Beyond that - since you happy with the calipers / pads - I imagine you'd be looking at all the suspension joints / bushes.

You could get a set of 16" alloy or steel wheels just for winter use off ebay etc but bit of an expense for all the time there is a lot of snow. 195 tyres will be much better in snow than the 215. I managed to pick up 4 steel with part worn 195/65/15 for £100 a couple of years back for my octavia and stuck them on when bad weather was forecast. Alasdair

17911 may be a failed or failing voltage regulator on alternator or alternator itself. Check the wiring to it and also both the exciter wire and the one that goes to ecu. Check as well what voltage you are getting when car is running. Have had one in past that failed and was putting 15-18v output. Also check fuse box in engine bay for any signs of corosion/burnt terminals. Alasdair

Broken D3S xenon bulb holder!! The last few months I started to notice the beam of the right side headlight was looking a bit off, not as bright and a faint vertical line right in the middle where there wasn't much illumination. Initial thoughts were a failing bulb, which I only replaced approx. 2 yrs ago with LED ones, or the bulb was out of its holder/socket. Turns out it was the bulb holder that was broken!! It normally holds the D3S firmly in the socket with a twist to lock it in. Mine was sitting loose, hence the bulb was not in its correct position, resulting in poor light output. Somehow the bottom hinge had broken. Was not fixable, hence a replacement holder was ordered. Part No. 9FH 161 097-016 All fixed now. The right side beam is now as it should be, again. p.s. mine being a pre-facelift with SLA headlights (version B), it uses a different mechanism to hold the bulb. Version A headlights use the spring clip method. Broken one on left. Replacement on right. How it sits on the D3S bulbs....

Hello everyone! Can anyone help me find long coding for ECU 03 Brake Electronics Skoda Fabia 2011. Please see attached details Image removed due to vin visible. Please crop and attach the error code only

Hi all, fairly new to skoda ownership after years of vw. Recently bought a 2015 vrs tdi estate and occasionally I'm getting juddering when braking. Feels like a warped disc but doesn't do it every time I brake. Sometimes does it a low speed and sometimes from higher speed but no real pattern. It's a 2 owner car with fsh. Has had discs and pads replaced fairly recently before i bought it. All calipers are free, I've cleaned everything all pads slide freely etc and there are no ABS fault codes logged. Any ideas gratefully received.

The Kamiq owner's manual only lists the 16" winter wheel size for use with snow chains (with links and locks that are no larger than 13mm), ie. 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35...not the factory fitted 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40 wheel size. The alloy rims on 215/45R18 7Jx18 wheels have very little protection from kerbing damage (because the sidewalls don't bulge out much), so are probably best avoided if deep snow is hiding where the kerbs are. Winter wheel size (Kamiq) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 Factory wheel sizes (Kamiq) 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET40 215/45R18 7Jx18 ET39 Actual inflated width of tyre (measured on the outside of the sidewalls, at the widest point) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 201mm 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40 208mm 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 214mm 215/45R18 7Jx18 213mm

Hello there. Recently had the check engine light up on my 2004 TDI Skoda Fabia. Friend of mine had a code reader and found two faults apparently. First one is 17911 Load Signal From Alternator Term. DF: Implausible Signal Second is 17571 Fuel temp sensor short to +ve / open error. Previously there also have been recent problems where I had to replace the battery for being drained and front lights several times for burning out. From what I've read both faults can be led back to faulty wiring or connector issues but the other problems make me believe the issue could be also with the alternator. Any way to check the cause without replacing parts?

Hi Everyone. I know this is an old thread - but I’m having a problem getting the aerial mast out. It turns only so far, then turns on the thread without coming free. When you say ‘yank’ it, how much of a yank are we talking about? Only want to replace the mast as the rubber has perished, and feel a yank might mess up the aerial base. Thanks.

Hello there. A new owner of an older car, here to learn a bit more about my car.

Been using Fram,Febi/blueprint or Mann which ever is cheapest for years and no probs. I use standard oil not longlife so it gets changed more regularly including filters. Just avoid any cheap ones that you have never heard of. Alasdair

Depends if you can fit two prams or pram and buggy plus luggage. Daughter has volvo v40 which is only slightly shorter than the karoq and just gets the pram in boot. I would have a look at both load space in rear. As previously mentioned have a look at Octavia estate. Its got a big load space and slightly shorter than kodiak. Alasdair

Just used the method above to restore the convenience window on my 2020 after they stopped working.

There were only two TMC providers in the UK. Both have pulled out now. The VAG / Here Maps traffic offering is only available through connected services.

@Tznofl I can vouch for Kieran (East Yorkshire Retrofits) who ran the full update package on my 2020 Octavia 4 as it's performed flawlessly since. Will save you a lot of time, hassle and money versus going to a dealership

Hello, I’m posting on this forum to see if anyone can help me. I have a 2015 Skoda Fabia; I’ve never updated the radio, and recently it’s been giving me a lot of trouble with Android Auto error 8. I was wondering if there might be an update available for my radio. Many thanks in advance. DPN - 5Q0035840A Hardware - H25 Software - 0245 Media Codec: 2101.0.0.10

Probably as you said not put back on securely which would explain the whistle noise. Glad you got it fixed. Alasdair

If you disconnected battery the steering and esc will come on until you turn full left and full right plus a short drive. Looks like you may have to remove bearing and clean or replace. Alasdair

Does anyone know if it's possible to switch mib2 /mib2.5 high to use Here TMC in UK. If I good remember ford sync 3 used Here through TMC and never noticed issues.

So if i'm lucky i can find one online and if not, a creation of a new plug is required ok ok thx for the help

Just an update, I've checked the alternator pulley and other pullies around that area, all seem tight, belt looks tight, OK from what I can see. As they're not easy to inspect, due to their location. Unless you were to go from underneath. So Ill keep an eye on it, if it becomes worse, be easier to diagnose. If I do get to the bottom of it, I'll post on here, again.

There’s an update to take the system from 16xx to 18xx via 17xx (2 updates in one) Then a separate update to take it to 1985 It’s likely your car has a boatload of software updates outstanding which should all be completed at the same time to ensure a compatible baseline. Visit a specialist - we can help