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Hi all, I was given a quote for my Rapid 2016 spaceback.. It needs new tyres, oil service and breaks service. And the garage gave me a £1697 quote. Which seems insanely expensive. So I dodged the bullet and started researching the prices. And to my shock a disk can be hd for 20-40 pounds. A set of pads the same. The garage was quoting 170 for the same. Ny question is, how do I reliably identify the type of disks I need for the front? For the back the information is in my booth, on that sticker that is near the tyre reserve. But I can;t find anything for the front. Is really calling a dealer with VIN the only way? Thank you., Kris

We use this as we used to have a Tesl. It's very useful and the Tesla app will show you which chargers you can use but be mindful that not all Tesla charging locations are available to non-Tesla users.

On a number of occasions lately (though, interestingly, not during the first five or so years that I've had this car - an April 2020-manufactured last of the MkIII Facelift, Scout 4x4 DST-7 diesel "combi"/wagon/estate) I realize that a button on the 'Kessy' key fob in my purse had been pressed without my meaning to. My purse is, like all such accoutrements, something of Felix's TARDIS (to meta my mixaphors). But in truth I thought that the exact spot (lower, front/outer pocket, of a medium size crossbody bag made of 'ballistic nylon' (the sales guy introduced the material to me by taking out a ballpoint pen and stabbing at the bag, hard, leaving no visible mark; so, not canvas; it has a certain amount of rigidity)) where I keep the key fob in the purse (and, the fob is in a closely shaped zip-lok bag, to boot) should have protected buttons from being pressed easily. Sitting in a (very good) cafe-bakery-pastisserie in lower France yesterday morning, having breakfast during yet another of my cross-continent drives, I glanced out the window and noticed my lift gate was half-up 🙄. I hadn't opened the lift gate on parking there, and I confirmed that the car was still locked. So it has to have been that, through the fabric of my purse, I had pressed-and-held the lift gate button on the key fob for several seconds. I searched the Internet in general, Amazon (of course), and our forums here (it would be great if these forums could deploy more advanced language/context-sensitive search tools 😅), and all i came up with were fabric cases or plastic shells, all of which inset the buttons some, but none of which actually provided a slide cover to fully protect the buttons. (I did find on Maker site with instructions for creating such a thing, but I'm not a Maker...) I'm looking for something that would function similar to this: Does such a thing exist commercially for the 2017-2019 Octavia III Facelift key fob? It's this model - the round silver button to allow the physical key to swing out, and the three flat buttons lock - lift gate - unlock. It would be okay if the slide/hard case does NOT support opening the physical key withOUT removing the fob from the case, as I almost never use the physical key. thanks!

Just piggyback a constant and battery live with a hardwire kit that you can adjust the auto shutoff function. My Viofo dashcam hardwire kit has 4 low voltage setting that when it reaches the set point the camera shuts down, so protecting the 12v battery. I also have the camera set to parking mode.

On my April 2020-manufactured last-of-the MkIII Facelift (2017-2019) Octavia Scout (combi/wagon/estate, diesel, 4x4, DSG-7, 135kW/184cv, suspension about 3cm higher than the standard combi/wagon/estate model), the rear lift gate will always open, no matter the door lock status, if I have a key fob near the rear lift gate and I press the exterior rear lift gate button. Is there a way to set it so that the rear lift gate will only open if the driver's door (or, any front door) is already unlocked? I found some discussion of the Car Opening & Closing settings, and I tried setting it to One Door Only, but it made no difference. thanks,

6Q0511115AK has build code 0YJ, which is one lower in the hierarchy compared to 6Q0511115AL with its 0YK build code...so 6Q0511115AL is still the one to go for.

Hi, thanks very much for taking the time to explain so thoroughly. I'm afraid we have the standard 'low' design, so it appears we are doomed! It's so frustrating. Today the light has been working about 50% of the time - other days, it's off all the time. I think it may be possessed. Whatever the case there's just no way it should cost a family holiday (Skoda have quoted £880 or thereabouts) to fix a defective light on an ordinary small car. It's an absolute disgrace and in my view shows Skoda's contempt for their customers - nothing about this needed to be this way, it's purely the manufacturer's intentional choice. Anyway, at least I now know I'm not missing a trick - we really are that screwed! Thanks again for your thoughtful and comprehensive reply, it's much appreciated.

I've parked my car on the Skoda parts website and it seems the part number below is correct 6Q0 511 115 AK Rear axle coil spring, colour coding: 1x orange, 2x blue, 2x white. Gf13dwm: FITS YOUR CAR

Brilliant, sketches, for a moment I thought we in the chuckle thread 😁

What a brilliant answer. Thankyou so much!

Yes .. I'd just started work at 18 as a sponsored engineering student and had moved away from home. I was renting a place with a group of mates from the same workplace. It was an old single brick skinned terraced property with no central heating, draughty single glazing and one gas fire in the living room. It also had massive draughts up through the floor from the cellar and to get to the one bathroom you had to go through one of the two upstairs bedrooms. I was downstairs in the front room facing the street. I eventually got a fan heater on a timer that I set to come on a few minutes before I got up each morning but the timer was a clockwork one and often jammed. A year or so later we were living somewhere else just as bad if not worse as it was on a main road into town and every time an artic went past the floorboards vibrated and moved so much the furniture rocked.

You won't find the 1.4 short on power - even with the older 140HP version. Check that the front assist radar sensor has been correctly recalibrated - cruise will be disabled if it hasn't. Upgrade from standard cruise to ACC may be expensive.

At Last The 1948 Show starring Tim Brooke-Taylor, John Cleese, Graham Chapman and Marty Feldman. We had to huddle around a candle in mid-winter to keep us warm. If it got really cold dad used to light it

I seem to remember an even older version with Marty Feldman if memory serves.

The open chimney kept the house cool in the summer too

I was four and lived in a house with one fire in a downstairs room with a coal fire that heated the chimney walls of the rooms above, thankfully I don't remember how it felt just know it was the same when i was eleven and a gas fire was put in and the upstairs rooms were still only heated by the heat from the back of the fire because that was were 70% of it's heat went😄

@skomaz Do I take it then that your house was an older type of house? Central heating was becoming pretty common in new houses in the 1970s-1980s. I remember that my parents had it installed sometime in the 80s. We moved into the house in the 50s, lighting it with the courtesy of gas mantle lamps mounted on the walls and a single electric socket in the kitchen. I only just now discovered that these gas mantles were radioactive thanks to the mantle containing thorium dioxide.

From memory our Roomster, with same M10 studs and nuts shows 50Nm + 45° turn in the workshop manual. It would be quite interesting (so I may well do it in the next few days) to do the above method on a new genuine nut and then see what torque the wrench has to be adjusted up to to move the nut any further. Or to do it up to 50Nm, mark nut and wishbone and then see how much of a turn is done by going to 100Nm.

Hmm Indeed could be for M8 bolt. It is hard to find reasonable torque. I looked at my ball joint M10 and definitely I'm not going tight it for 100Nm. At least not with nyloc nut provided by Febi in the kit. What I have found so far is this 40Nm +45deg. I keep looking.

Places I lived in in the late 80s had ice on the inside o the windows in winter... Let alone in 1962/63...!!!

The above is something demonstrated on here fairly regularly with people boasting about free or cheap charging and using it as a stick to evangelise about EVs without any recognition of how the vast majority of the UK live life, or how they are in a completely different situation. I don't think it causes much resentment in here but it certainly annoys and frustrates due to the constant repetition and blindness to the lives and situations of others. I think the expression is probably 'tone deaf'...

Following as my volume ghost has appeared again

Interesting! Will give it a try

Now that's an interesting fix!