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This thread may help. Third post down https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/515242-fuse-help/

Almost certainly this. Other end looks to be riveted in, so standard part of box whether used or not.

its not mentioned in the book, it may be wrong or just an unused fitting, I need to know what other peoples Elroqs'look like to know, but your right it does look wrong. Maybe something is supposed to bolt to it, but its not fitted to my car??

It rather looks as if @JulianR has gone off radar.

Best selling car (not just EVs) in China, about half million, which is by far largest car market in the world. That looks very good value and would probably suit a lot of people...

I'm not convinced; they were imported in multiple container loads at a time, so they weren't low-value imports. Most of them in my area were destined for a large warehouse in Essex and a couple in East London. They were going to huge wholesalers who had set themselves up as suppliers to smaller independent wholesalers who were not large enough, or had poor credit ratings. Meaning main large-name UK and European manufacturers would not supply them. Often these smaller wholesalers would operate from a shopfront and would sell to the general public,, who would not be allowed to use a proper wholesaler.

Good afternoon Dave, is the 80Amp fuse link under where the nylon fuse extractor is? That missing terminal post nut clearly looks wrong - what does that fuse protect?

I scraped with a knife the black coating at the marked area and now it's more visible... Not great but good enough 🙂

Hello, Skoda Superb Mk3 2.0 TDI L&K Looking for some advice. I have a small coolant leak, and I think it is coming from the water pump. The car is on 84,000 miles, and I don't have any records of the cambelt ever being changed. I have asked Vindis Skoda in Cambridge for a quote to change the cambelt and water pump, and they came back with £1630.70 inc vat which I think is outrageous. I could do it myself but I want the record of it being done for future sale. I was under the impression it was covered under a fixed pricing strategy, but the link http://www.skoda.co.uk/finance-and-offers/service-and-maintenance/simply-fixed is now just a redirect. They have an old 2021 document https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8b70c541-726b-4996-9999-66ebc7ca520b stating it is £500 for a cambelt and water pump. Vindis currently has a price match guarantee on https://www.vindisgroup.com/skoda/servicing-offers/price-match-skoda/ so I am thinking I need to find somewhere reasonable and get them to match it. I have found https://www.john-clark.co.uk/volkswagen/servicing-parts-offers/cambelt-waterpump/ which is currently fixed at £799. https://www.vantagemotorgroup.co.uk/skoda/servicing-pricing/ is currently fixed at £700. Has anyone had theirs done recently, and what did you pay?

Even without the Silicate pouch or dispenser, G13 coolant is quoted as having a service life of two to three years. If doing your own coolant refill, be aware that persistent air-locks can be problematical unless either vacuum-filling or VCDS purging procedure is used. I intend to change to G12evo on my next coolant replacement - unless VAG decide to change, yet again!

There are new measures here in the UK and the EU to stop low value imports, by requiring full customs entries rather tgan Low Value simplifications, so there are less import entries of higher value and more of them can be paper anfmd physical examined plus more taxes collected. Should help reduce these poor quality shipments.

I am just looking for an oil filter for our SIII. Searching online comes up with 2 different cartridges - a 101 mm and a thinner 161 mm one. Which one would be for the 2L TDI with 200 bhp?

The sole reason I provided a link to the video was because it demonstrated the 'kitchen towel' ploy. The business end of my Fabia Mk4's dipstick is as shown in the attachment below and matches the drawing in the relevant Owner's Manual. The main difficulty in identifying the oil-level is due to the dipstick's black colour.

Unfortunately I don't deal with MIB3 units :(

@pab567 has a good deal of knowledge regarding these updates I believe so maybe he could assist.

Hi all, I've been happily driving my mk4 for the last 5+ years without many issues. Besides the occasional unavailable front assist, infotainment black screens and the inability to connect to carplay. Carplay not connecting was annoying sometimes but almost always fixable by rebooting the system. Carplay is the only thing I use and I didn't care much about the infotainment software itself. During these years I have had a few (maybe 5 or 6) requests coming in for OTA updates. I always accepted these and didn't think much of it. Now the last few weeks Ive been looking into upgrading the tech in my car. I thought it would be nice if there was custom software or a jailbreak available, so I could get more out of the screen and solve the slightly annoying issues. This is where I discovered I'm still running v1664, pretty much the first version of this software. So none of these OTA updates I accepted actually came through.. Trying to update the software through the infotainment system resulted in endlessly searching for an update, even though I seemed to be connected with the server (the globe icon is white). This is where I discovered I'm a bit too late for any OTA update and the infotainment sucks bad, as many of you probably know. No feedback from the system about why things do not work whatsoever. I thought well, I'll update the system myself. I'm pretty tech-savy and thanks to the great community I've been able to create a USB with v1941. However, trying to update the system with my USB, I ended up waiting hours for the update to continue past 0%, without any luck, and of course, without any feedback from the system. I've tried some "workarounds" like rebooting the system just before running the update, or turning off the engine and opening the door after starting the update. But these didn't work for me. After doing some more research it seems there are more intermediate steps (versions) I have to update to first, before ending up with the latest version 1985. As far as I could find I have to follow this path; 1664 > 1810 > 1896 > 1941 > 1985 I'm hoping someone here with more experience could confirm this path, and also confirm this is all possible using USB instead of ODIS. I'm also hoping someone can provide me with version 1810 and version 1896, as I couldn't find these online. My system details: Device Part Number: 5E3035816A Hardware: H56 Software: 1664 - MOI3_EU_VW_R6640L ABT hardware: H44 ABT software: 2088 It would be great not having to go to a skoda dealer to get this sorted out, as this can be quite time (and money) consuming according to some of you. Thanks in advance!

.AI is watching and learning.

Looks like 4 separate gaskets, one for each port: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/1/133/133035

Video is not as per VW Group / Skoda. You get a different level showing Stone Cold (Always know where it is cold which you need before setting off.) or at Normal operating Temperature, not just Warm & after a few minutes. Oil Filter as used by VW since 2012. Either up top or lower. Easy, try Cold you can do that every time. If you just serviced it and know how much is in then great. Then compare as VW says on every engine other than a 44kW 1.2 with only 2.8 litre capacity. Check Cold. Far far too many Skoda,s have low oil levels right from the PDI & hand over or from a Service at Skoda Main Dealers. Yes check it when collecting the car and the engine not started and when you get home and hot. See if the levels show identically and as correct.

And yet, these bargain-basement dangerous sockets and other electrical items are still slipping through their fingers by the thousands and ending up on sale to electrical contractors via electrical wholesalers all over the UK. I have worked for Crabtree Electrical, Ashley & Rock and Hager over the years. The other scam is good-quality electrical sockets, etc., allegedly purchased for export, being delivered direct to the docks FOB (Free On Board), and then these same products end up being sold, once again, in the UK via the distribution network, which I also had to track down. A secret coding system identified the affected products, and they were impounded.

Talking to Lloyd Skoda in Carlisle they originally expected to have an Epic viewable in the showroom in February, but now hope for January. Simpsons Skoda in Preston however think they will have a left hand drive one to view only in the showroom in mid September. Guess I'll keep monitoring them both every now and then.

Correct, but the bit of interest was the plug-in balcony solar that @lol-lol was extremely keen to see and get. Sockets like that have been getting the destruction order for decades, and I have personally been involved in searching out stocks of these in wholesalers' and importers' warehouses and getting them destroyed. The YouTube channel is designed for the electrical trade only, so it really is not clickbait as we all know it; it is designed to draw the viewer's attention to the particular type of socket and alert them to the dangers they bring. Once upon a time, it was simply a matter of saying that all sockets made in China were not to be used in the UK and electrical wholesalers shouldn't stock them. These days, that statement cannot be used, as the major players in the wiring accessory industry (MK, Ashley & Rock, Crabtree, BG and Scolmore etc), have shipped their production to China and the surrounding area.

i always measure cold, pull dipstick out, wipe, leave overnight and than put in and out. if i try to pull it out when engine is hot, it wont come out easy, it have rubber O-ring that seals, and when hot it cant move easily.

Thank you for the reply sussamb I had forgotten about that switch. I tried it yesterday with just the ignition on and it made no difference. This morning I had another try with the engine running and it worked. So problem seems to be solved. Thank you. I hadn't pressed that switch originally that I am aware of. Sometimes I think that the car has a mind of it's own. I normally have the MFD on MPH but every time I start the car it's on something different, and often whilst driving it will change to something else. Thank you again.

Yes, 76 reg, but I’m transferring my personal number plates to it anyway. The 76 plates are only really important when it comes to resale time… The new car is a MY2027 build so hopefully fairly recently built.