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I've bought the same Eibach pro kit and my rear spring is hitting the rear droplink aswell without any load! It's doing my head in. as mines is an estate do i go for F11-15-007-04-HA or F11-85-016-10-HA? Not sure i coudl return the kit now as its been installed for 6 months! lol.

The Leon needed a little TLC; it wasn't running smoothly anymore, especially at idle. So, I pulled out the spark plugs and coils to check the combustion pattern... It turned out cylinder 2 looked like it had been wet at some point. I installed four new NGK plugs and coils, and now it runs silky smooth again.

So, the passenger side is installed. Mirror lowering is active. For the driver's side, I have a genuine Skoda glass available for €60 including shipping. But I’m going to see if I can get hold of a complete mirror assembly instead. The plan is to get everything finished this year.

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@Nipa Does switching on the Fog light as you reverse into your drive help any? As to fogged windows & mirrors, time to get your glass well cleaned, FoG X, Rain X , or Clear Vue etc on the glass and Damp traps in the car. Cut down on the danger anyplace not just reversing into your drive. Maybe clean the glass before driving or reversing. PS putting some Solar lighting in your drive might be 'Simply Clever'.

He found that the grinding noise was coming from the front part of that ''skirt'', every time i was in reverse in an uhill it was touching the pulley producing that horrible noise. Some hammer work from him (yes i know it's cruel but...) and things went back to normal. If a fellow Skodian faces the same problem in the past, now knows where to look.

In my posting above perhaps I should have made it clearer that the light-units I arrowed as being LEDs did not have LED BULBS in them when I said: LEDs are used in the two number-plate light-units and (on the right side of the hatch) in the fog=light/reversing-light unit. The light-unit on the left side of the hatch is a dummy and has no LEDs in it. Left-hand-drive models will have a LED fog=light/reversing-light unit on the left side of the hatch and the light-unit on the right side of the hatch will be a dummy. with no LEDs in it. On the car's 'hatch', only one of the fog-light/reversing-light units is operative (the right unit of RHD cars or the left unit of LHD cars). The fog-light and reversing-light outputs come from small individual LEDs. (There are four separate LEDs in the reversing light-unit and these are visible if you shine a torch into the underside of the reversing-light's reflector). The units are 'sealed' and neither the fog-light nor the reversing -light can be upgraded by fitting higher-output LED bulbs. I agree that the reversing-light's output is poor and I'd like a reversing-light on both sides of the hatch - but that's the way it is. LED bulbs could be fitted in the outer rear light-units, but this would be illegal in the UK. It's also near certain that replacing any of the 3 halogen bulbs in each light-unit with a LED-bulb equivalent would trigger a dashboard 'light failure' warning. I've thought about replacing the boot-light W5W halogen bulb with a LED equivalent (as I did with my Hyundai i20) as the boot-light gets pretty hot, but I probably shan't bother. For spare rear-light bulbs, I managed to obtain a pair of OSRAM "ULTRA LIFE" W5W and P21W bulbs reasonably cheaply, but finding a good quality inexpensive WY16W bulb has proved trickier and I'll probably opt for a Halfords bulb if I'm passing one of their branches.

Before the summer holidays, I had asked the mechanic to inspect the car from under (suspension, rubber boots, potential coolant or oil leaks, etc.). He did so, and (as I’ve mentioned in another thread) he found a loose lower coolant hose and replaced it. I took the car and drove about 200 kilometers to my holiday destination, but one morning, while reversing to pull out of my parking spot, I heard a hair-raising noise (grrrzzzt). I was surprised because I couldn't immediately pinpoint exactly where underneath the vehicle the sound was coming from, and unfortunately, the situation worsened day by day. The steeper the incline when i reversed, the louder the noise became, whereas on flat ground, there was no sound at all ! Unfortunately, there was no repair shop there, so when I returned the next day, i took the car to another mechanic,he put it on the lift, and we both went underneath to see what was going on. The noise was coming from the front right side of the engine,in english may call it ''cover'' but in every day Greek the mechanics call it ''skirt" or ''protective skirt". The photos are lousy because i was sin a hurry but you can get an idea.

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The seat won't go low enough to restrict my visibility. My legs are nowhere near straight. I see many drivers (mainly woman) seating so low that they can only just see over the steering wheel. Look at drivers driving towards you and with some you won't see below their nose.

Many thanks both. I too wondered if this may be the case, so I deleted my phone's bluetooth connection but it still wouldn't connect. As a further insight, I found that the phone's bluetooth is v5.2; so it still may be, despite the head unit quoting that it will support v4.1 and above, related to the version of bluetooth in the MP3 player.

Just to update, although it appears that I'm the only one affected. Skoda's next position was that they'd identified the issue with the map data & that it would be fixed in the next map update. Map update came & went with no fix. They then decided they could only fix it by supplying a secret solution to a dealer. Wouldn't disclose what the fix comprised of & wouldn't commit to covering the cost under warranty. Collected the car Wednesday after the ball ache of getting to/from the dealer by public transport. Dealer said they'd applied a service bulletin fix & updated "numerous modules". The end result of which is...absolutely no change. The only positive is that Skoda covered the cost,

If the battery is new and good was it coded when fitted? It does sound like a voltage drop so if battery is reading 12.5-12.8v and doesn't drop too low while cranking it may be a bad earth. Check the main one from battery to chassis first and also check starter connections/earth. Not sure if you have had it scanned for codes but maybe VCDS might ping something up the garage has missed. Alasdair

Well something of note has been downloaded to our 24 Reg SEL - one of my major gripes has been the brief ‘on screen’ warnings, one bong and no more than 2 seconds on screen - I had to be quick to see what the fuss was about - last night however I was treated to three bongs and five seconds or so on screen - sufficient time to actually read what was up, turned out to be the all too common ‘drive in the centre of the road’ warning…….

Thanks for your help. But where in the manual does it say that? Plenty about using the touch screen to accept or reject calls, but because I'm dumb I'm struggling to find anything related to the wheel controls.

Naturally, using a decent automotive test light, you check the fuse while it is installed to see if it is in good condition.

Thanks, that seems sensible, but are there any I shouldn't remove? I don't want to cause other problems. Oh, the rear doors don't central lock either.

Measure and check the battery voltage while the vehicle is starting; just because it is new doesn't mean it is in good working order.

When an incoming call arrives, it is displayed in the instrument cluster. You can then answer the call by pressing the right-hand rotary dial on the multifunction steering wheel. Or have you actually read the manual?

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Just take a test light and check all the installed fuses—both in the interior and in the engine bay.

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Thanks Imart and Pete, I googled GPM after seeing it on Pete's pic and came up with the GPM Nidec group too. I think GPM were bought out, which may explain the change in manufacturing location. I'm also not sure if they sell replacements, or were/are supplying direct to the manufacturer on new cars only. Imart have you been using Gates in the past and how have their reliability been? There's a lot of opinions about impeller material, plastic or aluminium. But I think if the more common failures are the internal seal and subsequent leak through the pinhole drain, or the bearings, then the impeller may not be the problem if the car is having regular coolant changes with the specified coolant. My INA kit should arrive today, and Ill post pics of it shortly. Thanks.