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Sounds logical Derek by the way thank you very much for your help and information on the subject I done the reset and there is a noticeable difference at slow speeds in town for instance 👌 my thinking was i don't use the car often enough as it's a second car when its cold the transmission is at its worst but improves as it warms up thanks again Derek your a scholar and a gentleman 😊👍

Some additional 2026.06 updates (for some RoW countries) out: Australia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_AUS_202612_Offline_Update.zip Asia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ASIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip India -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_INDIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip South America & Mexico -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_MRM4_SAM_202612_Offline_Update.zip The _202612_ in the filename appears to be incorrect - but the file contents appears to contain June 2026 data... Discovered via Skoda update portal. Enjoy!

Hi yes agree with all those things, we have done a few, I think the best thing is to contact the local dealer whose stamps are in the boot and see if they will provide me with a breakdown of what they have done, the previous owner was in her 80's so has not kept all the paper work... Thanks for your replies.

I notice that resetting a VW Group DSG gearbox has ben discussed online ever since this type of transmission was introduced and there are numerous YouTube videos describing the required resetting procedure (example here) https://www.youtube.com/shorts/eJBc-IusOZA It is commonly claimed that the software of the ECU that controls a DSG transmission uses fuzzy-logic that allows the transmission to adapt its behaviour to a driver's driving style, but that would mean that a 'poor' driver could cause the transmission to adapt negatively and function worse than when using its original baseline settings, or that a 'good' driving style could result in the transmission's original behaviour improving. The following comment appeared in 2015 on a VW-related forum Some have said that the DSG transmission adapts to your driving style but this is incorrect. The DSG transmission shift behaviour adapts to variables like internal wear, D or S mode, and other input factors like throttle position and rate of change, uphill or downhill, and applies these variables over an existing shift map. Learning or adapting to your driving style is the wrong term since it would mean acquiring new knowledge that wasn't present before. The transmission cannot learn anything new, it just applies variables to existing maps. The perception of a reaction to driving style is the result of the change in a number of variables applied to the shift maps. So Yes the transmission adapts but not how most people think. Although "learn" might be used in marketing literature, it's not the right word to use when describing technical operation. As the video says, if your car's DSG gearbox is behaving in a way that you think it should not (eg. the shifts are jerky) it would be worth using the reset procedure to see if that improves matters. But, whatever the cause of the jerkiness, it won't be because the gearbox has learnt 'bad habits' from the car's driver(s).

I was intending using my small torque wrench, building up to a maximum torque of 30 NM on a hot engine. And if that doesn't free it, spraying it and trying again a day or two later... Although that is a good point about the T-bar for a purer turning force. Especially given the extensions required to clear the top of the engine, plus pipework. The trouble is, I'm not at all calibrated when it comes to how much torque I'd be applying with my hand on a T-bar. Edit. Thinking about it, I have a screwdriver type handle as part of my socket set. I'm pretty sure there's a low limit to how much torque I could apply with that. It's raining today. So I'll be trying this on the next dry day...

Might be time for me to take a holiday!

No stranger to seizing bolts. Usual 1/4 turn out lubricate and back in again then repeat. Worst ones are the ones that thread protrudes through to other side which I normally clean up first. So far any work done and bolts are remarkably good and have come out fairly easy. Alasdair

I might give dynax a go then over the top of my jenolite if it’s that easy to apply and a bit cheaper than hydrate 80. How does s50 work then and where would I generally use it you mean inside of cills and arches?

I think it's a distinctive design but not keen on the rear end treatment, and the harking back to the long bonnet of the E-Type seems an unnecessary design flourish IMHO. I do like the efficiency of the 1000HP motors giving a 300+ mile range "at highway speed". Would I buy one if I had £130,000 to spend on a car? No, it's styling is just too "weird" for my taste.

It should be on the records as done or not done. Also what other Service Campaigns, maybe track rod ends, maybe Heated Seat Elements if there are heated seats. Then there was a fan issue. But if '34F7' not done and DSG OK i would still not touch it. For a 2011 1.2 TSI There is can update of the Timeing Chain & tensioner. might have been done. There should be armoured Plug Leads, especially on cylinder 3. This was an update. When were the Spark Plugs changed? When was the Air Filter changed or the brake fluid replaced. These are the first service things i would do.

You could choose hydrate 80 or jenolite. Jenolite is good, so you might want to save your money, and save even more by going to Dynax for the underbods, and S50 for cavities. Dynax and S50 are available 750ml spray cans, so it's easy as lanoguard to apply, and if yu were using one of those hand sprayers, it doesn't dribble over your hands so much. 3 cans of jenolite should go a long way. Some people won't put any coating over it, and just retreat the necessary bits each year. I think you might need to rinse with alkali solution to neutralise the acid, but a chemist could give better advice. Do you use a trolley jack for lifting?

Thanks - double checked. My LV policy covers lost or stolen keys. Just need to be careful. I have a hefty excess on theft - so if that applies to keys, its probably not worth it. D

Fair old bit of EV tech in the car. Bit quicker than my old Type S I reckon..... https://media.jlr.com/jaguar/news/2026/10/jaguar-type-01-new-era-begins One‑of‑a‑kind: Jaguar Type 01 is a luxury four‑door GT like no other. A bold new grand tourer that never arrives unnoticed, like all the best Jaguars of the past Exuberant proportions: Low roofline, short front overhang, long bonnet, extended rear overhang and 23‑inch wheels. Presence and drama from every angle Pioneering foundations: Unique JEA body architecture and state‑of‑the‑art propulsion to deliver the original design vision Boundary‑breaking: More than 360 patent applications to make Type 01 the most technically advanced Jaguar ever engineered Most aerodynamic Jaguar: Active Vanes, three‑stage deployable spoiler and airflow optimisation delivers drag co‑efficient of 0.23 Drives like a Jaguar: Two dynamic characters. Deep reserves of power. Refined comfort and 50:50 weight distribution. The essence of Jaguar Power in reserve: Most powerful Jaguar road car, with up to 1,030PS and 1,365Nm. Type 01 pulls from 62‑112mph (100‑180km/h) in 4.0 seconds – 0‑62mph (0‑100km/h) in 3.2 seconds Electric freedom: 850‑volt architecture and 118kWh usable battery deliver an expected EPA range of up to 400 miles. Sustained highway speed range of up to 320 miles Central spine: Cabin is split into four individual spaces with longitudinal brass‑effect anodised aluminium finishers emphasising Type 01’s scale Crystal clear: Single glass 24‑inch OLED screen optimises brightness and clarity. Central seven‑inch smartphone‑style touchscreen controls key functions Sound stage: Jaguar Immersive Sound System envelops occupants, with Sensory Audio and the automotive‑first full‑width, full‑range Panoramic Soundbar Made in Britain: Type 01 is designed, engineered and built in the UK

I just undid the 4 M8s to release the whole driver's side mount from body, then jacked sump up carefully. If I did it again I think I would also unscrew the dogbone mount to allow easier movement. Watch out also for the front bolts seizing on their way out. Abort early if this feels like it's happening.

Hi thanks for the attached, neither of the 2 stamps seem to show the 34F7 stamp, I could contact the dealership and ask them to confirm.

Agree with using the penetrating oil but, when the time comes, use a T-bar wrench so that you apply a pure torque, this minimises the risk of snapping the glowplug. 🤞for you!

Personally i would leave it as is. If the DSG functions properly.

Cheers pete They do have the bump and I got the tool a while ago. Just never got round to doing them as they werent too bad at the time. MOT soon and reckon its a fail this time as ones knocking slightly and as I already have all parts including new arms might as well do it. Didnt realise had to lift engine but have a cross beam lift as I did the clutch a while back so shouldnt be too difficult. I assume I have to remove engine support and maybe dogbone? Alasdair

Mine is a petrol 1.2

Hopefully insurance will cover it. You could phone around autolocksmiths and ask if they can clone MQB platform key. I had another look and it does look as though it requires specialist software etc. Unless they have it it wont work. We have a local one that specializes in VAG group . Alasdair

Hi Gaz, just had a quick look at the YT it's for a 1.6 diesel, the under the hood layout is different to mine, but thanks for the link anyway!

Hi Evolution, thanks for your reply. I have only owned the car since the beginning of the year so can't confirm about the oil change however I have had a look in the tire well and there are 3 stickers, one is I believe the original one put in at the time the car was built it has all the details of the car, engine, paint etc.. then 2 local dealer stamps (see pics) one is dated Dec 2014 so it might be that the work was done? Wasn't quite sure what your "'34F7'" meant. Re 'best to know what you are doing' I totally agree, my brother who does any work on the cars is a mechanical engineer and is very switched on, he has changed oil in regular gearboxes but has never worked on a DSG box in a Skoda. The Haynes paper manual does not cover the DSG and beside YT I am struggling to find exact info on what to do/ don't do for this car so hence my request here!

Thanks to Breezy_Pete for your quick reply to my parts problem. My garage have put a larger pipe over the split pipe and used jubilee clips to hold it in place. The part number 6Q2 612 041 CD and I have contacted various parts suppliers including Germany and Czech Republic but the replies are the same that the part is no longer available. My garage has assured me that their repair is good and my Farbie is safe to drive. I get the impression the only hope to get the actual part is from a breakers but not sure where the best suppliers of those type of parts is to be found so any suggestions much appreciated.

I like the big fat Elephant and would spend £120,000 on one if looking at getting a £120,000 car. But they have revealed a car with Door Handles that will not be allowed in China and maybe other countries around the globe sooner rather than later.

And I thought Irish prices were high, got my timing belt done on a 2.0tdi in June for €800 at the main Skoda dealer in my town, in fairness they did have a promotion on save €100