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Is your car chugging during normal driving/operation? Mine only does it for 2-3 seconds, when it's restarted after already being warmed up. Normal driving is fine, idle is smooth, and performance is generally strong. With regards to parts... I haven't bought many myself, but have used Autodoc and AwesomeGTI in the past. Both recommended. Autodoc is often cheaper that garages quote for parts, but takes 2-3 weeks for delivery to the UK.

@lol-lol Yes, I know about Electric Forecourt, just a few miles from me, and it can cope with that load, as there is a tap into the main 275kV or maybe even 400kV grid powerline just metres away from it. The place is run by Gridserve and has on-site 2 massive transformers to provide the power. But a couple of swallows does not make a summer. If we are to go electric, we need far more of these centres, but however, they are not geared up to accept HGVs.

Oh dear, My issue sounds very similar - if not exactly the same - diagnostics reveal nothing. Just back from short drive to hospital and engine is now chugging away - somebody said it sounded like a diesel ! I am an old school petrol-head serviced my cars own for many years rebuilt engines etc. My diagnostic is that it is a fuel issue (too rich ?) Rather than change the car - change all the fuel system parts ? (and the metal cam belt?) But the problem then is obtaining the parts - can anyone recommend a good parts store UK/EU ? Good luck,

It was a split evap pipe and belt tensioner all good now 👍🏻

Hi, I am writing to update the product details I posted recently. The correct product should be BMW Carbaflo KSP 105, or Krytox GPL 105 as a plan B. Sorry for the mistake.

Not accurate. In Essex, for one example, the wonderful Electric Forecourt over in Braintree has 30 chargers but also 6 MWhs of battery back up. My lad used my Scenic at the Gatwick has two 3.6 MWh battery pack, Norwich 6 MWh also, not sure about Stevenage as not yet published. The Fasned charging site at Colchester has solar canopy, one of their smaller sites and looks like the solar is just used Green light for Fastned’s west London ultra-rapid charging hAn ultra-rapid electric vehicle charging hub will be built by Fastned in west London. The joint venture between Fastned and Places for London, Transport Fastned's signature yellow solar canopies will provide shelter in inclement weather, alongside lighting and CCTV to ensure safety on site. With around 64% of outer London households lacking access to off-street parking, many drivers rely on public charging infrastructure, particularly in urban areas. Fastned says it has designed the Hanger Lane hub, ensuring it meets the needs of local residents, commuters, visitors and commercial operators such as local businesses and taxi or private hire cars. The hub provides accessible charging for vehicles of all sizes, from cars and taxis to vans and smaller trucks, helping address the limited opportunities for private charging at homes or commercial depots due to London's space constraints.

Cylinder 1 glowplug came out pretty easily after blowing the crap away and 24 hours/50 miles with a quarter inch of GT85 spray in the plug well. Took tightening a few degrees then >25Nm to undo, engine was cold at the time and was expecting it not to work and to have to do it later with a hot engine. Ceramic grease on thread and stem and reinstalled at ~15Nm I didn't clock actual values/units, but approx 100 fold higher resistance of failed glowplug on multimeter testing.

Welcome to the forum. Isn't there a USB-C socket mounted on the rear-view mirror?

This is from the workshop manual.

Did the pump hum/vibrate for a few secs at ignition or is it continuous. If its humming all the time it may be the pump thats faulty. As for bleeding not sure but have read you may have to use vcds etc. Probably as well getting a garage to do it. Alasdair

I want to replace the starter battery. I don't know how to remove these covers-any help out there?

Here's the point that I was making: the UK is not doing any of those things, and the last time I checked, we were all still firmly rooted here, the UK. We could talk about the situation in Kuwait, but their fossil fuel is cheap. Being a major producer, I understand that and they more than likely will not go down the EV route. It's of zero interest to the UK members of this forum to continually sprout what they are or are not doing. The French, for example, are particularly rebellious, and if the authorities introduce, for example, new driving rules that the population finds unpalatable, they riot and get their way in the end. Here in the UK we are not like that, and so our government takes liberties with us, like the blanket 20mph in Wales to reduce deaths. (which apparently had the opposite effect, and they have risen).

Big fishes in a little pond. Begrudgingly one must admit TESLA have done well with their UK public charging network, maybe not everywhere ie Northern Scotland, but many places. Their reliability, availability and pricing is very good in Midlands ie Frankley and Gloucester services particularly. Big question is whether BYD can do similar or better. The make batteries and chargers as well as cars and trucks. If they can do as well as TESLA if not better with their rollout of public charging it will show Gridserve and other public chargers hie it should be done ie onsite batteries to give reliable high speed charging. I do wonder if Gridserve and others do not or cannot supply the charge levels advertised because the electricity they would supply is so expensive they would rather not supply. This tea time my market rate lecky is up to 91p per KWh during peak half hour slot. I will not be taking very much of that at all !!

Yes they did the filters, and charged for the enhanced service because of it, but did not change the spark plugs

Osprey App offpeak charging. Still expensive compared to TESLA at Cheap offpeak times.

The invoice only says "replace driver's door lock", and even that was just a recommendation from the initial diagnostics check, so no actual record of the work done. I should also have mentioned that the door lock clunks repeatedly due to the fault, so that goes with the dinging for the engine running!

@HowardBury Does that Invoice show all work done, time and parts used even if you are not paying. That is for your Records as the Owner / Driver. It is not supposed to be the SKODA SECRET SERVICE. Lose lips cost lives. Yet Dealerships seem to think it is all on a Need to know basis and customers need not know.

Thanks guys. It's on a Skoda extended warranty, so the only invoice I get is my contribution to the overall cost, or excess as it's an insurance policy. I get the impression that they don't recheck after fitting the new part, so that seems unwise. It's a central locking fault based on a faulty sensor in the driver's door which thinks the door is open, then throws up faults with engine running, auto hold not working, electronic brake faulty and others.

@JB88 If they were going by some Service Regime like that shown by Skoda UK the Air Filter was due to be replaced at 6 Years / 60,000 miles. Was it ? Actually it should be inspected at every service if a service is worth a damn.

Been back to the garage and done more tests whilst driving and said it wasn’t the abs sensors but couldn’t get to the bottom of the problem and suggested an electrician. Faults haven’t happened since then.

Annoying! Well done on not giving up

With Skoda / VW it is common that NEW DISCS are required sooner than pads or at the same time. Long gone are the days of several sets of pads before the discs need replaced. But then Skoda main dealer servicing might have Brake Fluid changed but not SERVICING of the Brakes, strip and grease pins etc.

If they didn't clear the codes how would they be able to tell they had fixed the problem?. Normally faults that have not been fixed correctly will reappear as soon as the vehicle is started or driven. The awkward faults are those where codes are logged, cleared and return after a period of time. I used to use VCDS to periodiclly check for codes, there would be codes listed which didn't result in any messages on the dashboard, that when cleared never returned or sometimes did return many weeks later, usually it was just a sensor reporting a reading that was out of spec.

Clearing the fault after dealing with the issue or fault and then road testing it and checking for fault codes is just 'Simply Clever' or a necessity'. Did they road test your vehicle before handing back the keys having given you the invoice. Plus the report on the checks they did while they had the car with them?

The car is finally back in the garage to have the GFB DV+ replaced with a 'Rev G'. Fingers (and toes!) crossed that this is the offending item and the car drives more smoothly again afterwards. I've asked them to also check the engine/gearbox mounts for any sign that those need replacing too (lower dogbone mount/bush was replaced earlier this year, so that should be fine, but the other two are possibly still original). Just looking for anything that could cause the off-throttle/lift-off jerkiness. I'm fairly convinced that both the warm restart chugging/stumble and the metallic rattle on cold start (it either does one or the other, sometimes neither but never both together) is the timing chain and tensioner. I'm not expecting the diverter valve replacement to change either of those, but hopefully it makes some positive difference. We shall see!