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May I ask what dynamic mode setup you chose for this part of your journey? We tackled the A68 from Corbridge into the Scottish Borders last night on our return home. We popped the suspension into sport mode. It made for a predictable and pleasant enough drive over the wilderness of North Northumberland and the Borders but not exhilarating. In sport mode the suspension still provided a reasonably decent level of cabin comfort despite our 19" rims and the variable road surfaces. In all truth, it's just nice not having to hustle an SUV along such roads and we didn't but the Superb to provide driving exhilaration or amazing feedback. She has surprised me though for what she is! So did you just choose Sport, did youselect the sport DSG option or did you choose an individual setup? Any tips would be appreciated. Best wishes.

In the 65 says “control unit switched off” (or something like that)

Welcome to the forum. A fairly common fault is damaged wiring cores in the flexible loop between A pillar and door.

Sent in PM

@BillyParker it was interesting that, in the same AutoCar article, they offered three possible alternatives to the E450d. Your Superb TDi was one of the three! They noted the huge range from a single tank of fuel. The other option was a RR Sport (straight six) but I cannot remember the third. Nonetheless, for the Superb to even get a serious mention is quite an achievement. Bears out @Coral-C and his thoughts regarding his Mercedes C- Class. We have now completed our first serious and lengthy trip to and from Windsor (we live in Southern Scotland). We absolutely love the car for so many reasons. One such reason is that 'it just works as intended'. With our XC90 we were asking the dealer to check the clutch mechanism on the seat belts because they were clicking in sync with our breathing! The Jaguar F-Pace 3.0d V6 had been rejected after a fortnight and our RR Velar D300 V6 had developed a droning noise caused by the unsprung weight of the 21" rim causing resonance through the half shaft. It took JLR six months to find the cause, manufacture a new half shaft made of different metal and then supply and fit it. To have a new car that simply works as intended is surely not asking a lot. Thankfully, I think and hope we may have found one! And despite the queuing traffic on the M1 northbound yesterday, the fuel economy for our petrol 2.0 TSI is pretty encouraging. Not quite TDi territory but better than we had expected Best wishes.

Check your PMs

If it’s not “prostitute red” I’d be disappointed.

Hi all, Same problem as in the “rear driver side door will not lock” thread. VCDS says module 62 (rear left door, J388) is unreachable, and the driver door, passenger door, BCM and gateway all log 01333 “no signal/communication”. I swapped the rear left door control unit with a donor one, no change. In the driver door loom (in the rubber boot) I found several broken wires (a thin green one, a white/purple one) and a frayed thick red one, with cracked insulation on most of the others. I’m going to replace them all. Before I cut anything, can anyone tell me: Which wire is the LIN between the driver door module (J386) and the rear left door module (J388)? Colour and pin in the door connector. What the thin green wire does (mirror auto-dimming?). Whether any airbag/side-crash sensor wires pass through that boot. Thanks!

Might be able to get an engineer to repair it; otherwise yes I’d guess new rocker cover

Hi all so I’m looking for a new set of tyres for my mk2 I recently had it mapped to stage one and have so far looked at the pilot sport 4 4/s and asymmetric 6 however I’m worried they’ll struggle in the winter months. I’m reading far too much online on these tyres I just need to buy a set. I’d love to hear people’s experiences on these tyres and if anyone recommends any others others and what are the go to tyres for a mk2? Any help would be appreciated 🙏🏻

Ah ok thanks. OBD11 no longer do lifetime pro and have monthly subscriptions only. Wireless vcds is double the price of standard. £600 vs £300.

If ur using One Click Apps, then u need to have Credits, lots n lots of it. If u make changes using Long Coding or Adaptations - u don't need Credits, but u do need a Pro license. The advantage of doing long coding and adaptations urself, manually is that u know exactly wat was changed. With One Click Apps, u have no idea wat else is done behind the scenes. I used to own VCDS before I switched to OBDeleven. Advantage over VCDS.....5x cheaper and ur not limited to 3x cars (VINs). I usually help out other Skoda owners with codings & adaptations. With VCDS I was limited to 3 cars max and if u wanted to work on more, I had to upgrade to higher license. Plus the convenience of not needing a laptop and a cable. Though I believe VCDS now comes with wireless connectivity.

Good shout Alasdair. A quick check is to see whether the brakes free off when you crack a bleed nipple or the master cylinder nuts with the car warm. If they do, it's rod or pushrod free play, as there should be a little free play at the pedal before the master cylinder starts working. If you do shim it, go carefully and recheck the brake light switch adjustment afterwards too.

So a while back my skoda octavia 2014 started to not start up and displays a "Put gear lever in P/N to start" although it is in P(tried also in N infact), and at the beginning just switching the key on and off a several times and then it will start eventually, but over time it didnt work at fast, and now it doesnt work at all. what ive done?, ive got a friend that has a mechanics OBD scanner(expensive ones), he cleared errors for me and it started!, then next day it went back to the same issue, then ive bought a microswitch from aliexpress named "Shifter Position Micro Switch 5Q0713128A Replacement for R32 Rabbit Variant Novo Micro Switch Shifter Micro Switch", got the item then i installed it, quite straightforward, unplugged the older one, put it in the switch and rerouted that to be the new plug, and installed the lever switch(sits on the P position), and IT DID WORK!, only for a few days then it did the same thing again, and doesnt work at all. and now im stuck, ive got an obdeleven from a long time ago, and tried maybe switching the feature off manually?, because the car's battery voltage is getting low and i wanted the alternator to charge it slightly so it doesnt die soon, i cleared errros using it, but it refused to work, unplugged the aliexpress kit ive got, and it still didnt work. so can anyone that has experenice with this tell me how to either: 1) diagnose or fix the issue, 2) force start the engine to not let it die, 3) bypass it using obdeleven somehow(or an official OBD scanner, i can get my hands on it). Much appreciated!

I have ones like these. They are brilliant.

Some tyres, not all, must rotate in one direction only. If yours are of that kind you can rule out side-to-side rotation. I avoid it even if it is possible, since tyres wear in a bit to one direction of rotation, depending on toe-in and other settings in the geometry. So it's front to back for me, if at all. My 2026 Sportline is on factory-fit summer tyres. Later this month they will come off and get replaced by four of the best all-season tyres, then the factory-fit tyres will get sold. I've done this often and they do sell eventually.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwTWKJ0 Perfect fitment and crisp white color

Just popped up for sale in NI, MOT'd and taxed (still seems to be registered as a 1.0 lol) asking only £12,995 😲 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1106310648666514

Karoq 1.5 Sportsline 2025 2wheel drive. I have search the manual and the forum but can not find any infomation regarding rotating the tyres front to back. Any advice, cross rotation? or just front to back? Reset tyre pressure monitor? I'm trying to ensure that the tyres wear evenly so that I can eventually change all 4 together for all season tyres.

Mileage now 125,600 , remap at 64,700, that’s 63,900 on the remap and the upgrades

Would this bring enough light in your boot? https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005011587892603.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.696f745dwdXir2&algo_pvid=387380bf-3220-485d-8a0e-101e7408216a&algo_exp_id=387380bf-3220-485d-8a0e-101e7408216a-10&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22330%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2113.78%216.89%21%21%21100.22%2150.11%21%400b1585c117935595347912243e0ee1%2112000055996686557%21sea%21FR%210%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Aac7fea6b%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=gl6IwZwNJ53w&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005011587892603%7C_p_origin_prod%3A 😁

Any other present error codes in 5F or 65 module?

funny enough I was just reading with AI to use measuring blocks on VCDS instead of the graph. I don't know, but AI says IU can't be a tooth out as I've gone through the pump range of not starting (too retarded) to bad clattering (too advanced).

That’s the point: until last week I was able to see the pressure values as on the Amundsen, then on rear wheels pressure was lower, after restoring 2/3 days later I got the message I posted above. Do I have to code again from beginning or any other idea/proposal?

Hi, did you ever resolve this? I want to remove this side airbag on octavia 2018 MK3 to re-fit the c-pillar properly but i read it is such a difficult job i dont dare remove the airbag piece and trim