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Feeling frustrated. Following on from previous post. 2014 Superb Elegance TDi CR170 Back story. Ran over something in the road, punched a hole in the fuel tank. Mechanic replaced the tank with one I sourced from a breaker that included pump, gauge sender etc. Car was then hard to start. Mech thought maybe low fuel, so put half a tank in. Following day, it started but cranked for ages before it started. Drove fine for a while then gave me limp mode, flashing glow plug light etc. Code comes back as P008700 - fuel rail/system pressure too low. Checked getting fuel out of tank pump, and at filter housing (and was full to top), HPFP and rail but I have no idea if any of those are ‘in spec’. Fuel filter had 15,000km (9000 miles) on it so well within factory intervals but changed it anyways just in case but noted this time the housing was nearly empty. No sign of HPFP metal pieces. Still very hard to start if sitting for more than a minute but runs ok til you give it some stick - brings on limp mode about 4.5k rpm. Im usually pretty sedate driver, but tow a trailer fairly regularly so gave it some death to make sure it’s ok which its clearly not. Question is - could the tank pump be causing my issues? I have the old tank with pump, so can change it but I don’t know if it’s my problem. Otherwise it goes back to the mechanic on Monday. TIA

Update: I saw a low battery key warning on the screen last week... which kicked in my "change all the batteries now paranoia"! All 4 (3 keys and immobiliser fob) were swapped for new Duracell CR2032s, which I did annually on both previous VW Golfs, and it was also just before service, so another minor cost avoided. I tend to buy a pack of 10 from Amazon so I have them on hand, and ... they have a longer lifespan than their annual use.

If you are on a Service Contract, you can do an annual fixed 12-month, 10,000-mile servicing, my Superb IV estate 1.5 TSI/25Kwh has just gone in at 9 months and 10,700 miles, as we recently got back from touring France and will average down until next summer. This has always my preference, although the petrol engine has probably only run for no more than 70% of the time; I prefer the full annual inspection, which came with a video of all of the underside verifying no damage to any of the components/covers or leaks of the shock absorbers, a full tyre condition report and new oil/filter all documented across a circa 60 point proforma. They didn't check the tyre sealant because the boot was full, partly with a loose space saver, so I am double covered in any case. Given it's a big, complex car, I would not want to leave any of this for 2 years? Trans City also got to the bottom of a rogue Electric/Hybrid switching problem (user error with the App) and changed my number plate for £24, as I had applied for a DVLA change in the morning and had the eV948 form.

Hi @pab567, Could you please help me with the firmware MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T (or P0478T) for my Skoda Bolero MIB2? My unit: Train: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0477T MU: 0477 Hardware: H41 Part No: 565035840 Thank you very much!

Dean- thanks for the heads up. The SAI removal/etc is a bit involved but I'm sure I can manage it- in fact, the vacuum tube hoses by the dipstick could well be at fault- that would explain my low boost/ bad economy issue. Whether it has anything to do with my oil leak, I wouldn't know. The hose kit I bought had the vacuum tube assembly included, which I didn't fit. Maybe I should. It looks well complex to me, but I've got my head around the engine bay now so it could be a job for sunday. I've been pointed to a supposedly good mechanic though, at the very least I'm gonna get him to get his VCDS on it. Might tell me something. Incidentally, what does N249 /N112 refer to?

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Ah, nightmare! 😂 Thanks for this. I'll look in to getting the correct one. Thank you for your knowledge. Robin

Hey, recently i bought a skoda felicia I break Super I, i have a 68 horsepower engine and i was trying to find how to connect a new radio on the car but i ran into a big problem firstly i how prevously a skoda felicia II but i don't think that the same interior harnesses for most part, but i remeber it was not like ont mine, i cannot connect a new radio on the plug i have on the car, i try to find an adaptator but no chance all of them are not compatible with my plug, so i need a little help, i know on some car the radio harnesses is connected on the cigars lighter on the fusebox but for me i don't find any form of document explaining all the connection of the fusebox, and i don't want to break my car on the fisrt month of ownership, So if you know how i can connect a knew type of radio harnesses i would realy value the help. oh and BTW the car is from 1995, and hasn't change radio i also send a picture of the fuse box if needed. Edit. the radio can be turn on even if the key is not on the ignition, so i know for sure i have a direct connection between radio and battery

Yeah Skoda looked them up via VIN, I’d also checked off a mates sensor too when the code didn’t clear. Same year and same sensor code. Checked the voltage to Climatronic module and this is correct. So issues must be on the main loom on the scuttle.

Racing Line dipstick arrived today and replaced the old ****ty one 😎 oil cooler housing next💪🏻

I'd like some advice please. I've had a witter detachable towbar that I fitted on my 2012 mk 2 superb for many years (I kept the old bumper support). I've just bought a 2023 mk 3 superb and need a towbar on that. Will I be able to unbolt the towbar assembly from the mk 2 and refit to the mk 3 or do I have to buy another, slightly different witter towbar assembly all over again ? Any advice welcome, thank you

Not sure. Something on the LIN bus causing trouble? What were the part numbers of the replacement sensors? Did Skoda look them up via your VIN?

So if those readings are correct what could be the probably cause of the no signal? Any ideas

They are probably referring to earlier, non-LIN version of the sensors. LIN sits at a high level when no data is being transferred, I believe.

Well all documents I’ve read so far point to 0.5v - am I missing something what should the correct voltage be

Pin 2 is a LIN bus connection; why do you think it should be at 0.5V?

It did yes. Done some further probing. Pin 1 - ground 0V Pin2 - signal 11.0V Pin3 - power 12.5v This is with ignition on, same readings at both sensors. Cannot don’t where the signal wire is picking up a live feed from. Should only be 0.5v.

Updated my successfully. Check this post link

Did those include fuse 34, a 7.5 Amp ignition switched one?

Hello I own a 2015 Skoda Octavia 3 with an Amundsen MIB1 unit. Current SW Train: MSTD_EU_SK_P3420 (MU0435) Part Number: 5E0 035 874 A I would like to update my unit to MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 (MU0490). I have been looking for the original firmware archive MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 (0490).7z, but unfortunately all public download links seem to be gone. If possible, would you be willing to share the firmware archive or a valid download link with me? I would really appreciate your help.

Hello, My observation: this is working when you use Travel Assist and it depends on type of the road. In my country (Poland) it only works on highways (2 or 3 lanes) but not on expressways (even 2-lanes same direction nor inside cities). It's not working with ACC in my case despite of type of road. Pic from today: Superb IV - 2025.

My July 2024 car acts as discribed by the OP. Can't say it bothers me. A few steering wheel button taps & I'm back to my usual dash display.

Never had this problem until a couple of weeks ago, I rolled back the update on Android Auto and reinstalled it on my phone, then reconnected to the car and it has not changed the VC layout when I go into Waze or Maps

Thanks for that. This confirms what I found out this morning that these sensors have their own control module and don't require reset after installation.