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Checked my fabia's sills and there is rust creeping under the paint. I had odd rusty bit that turned out to be stone chip and not deep rust. I discovered thearea just ahead of the rear wheel is susceptible to corrosion. There is a fibre/plastic - tar manufacturer rust protection under paint. I used sharpened wood chisel to remove. The metal flaked. A hole has appeared. The rust has progressed under the sill rather than from above from wheel arch. I've previously used etch primer elsewhere, high build, topcoat, clear coat. Not always that durable. I bought stone guard spray paint to protect against stone chips which is why I was prepping sills. I've rubbed rust down to bare metal except some rust in pits of metal. I was going to use rust converter but read it is not compatible with primer. I'm going to use epoxy p40 isopon and some P38 after curing. I'm using epoxy spray primer 2k. I read I can add putty isopon first then the epoxy primer after curing or vice versa, as long as properly cured. The reason I'm looking at epoxy is that it is fully waterproof and stops rust. Can I add stone guard then top coat 1k then 1k or 2k clearcoat? Is this correct? Thanks Front is not too bad, just behind wing - see image. Both sides of car rear end of sill are affected. The paint there looked fine and no bubbling. Since photo I've rubbed down rust.

Just to finish off - the rivnuts are a success. I got 304 bolts metric M3 for speakers and M5 for rest of door. Wife took car out and said there is a noise 😔 😭 (me thinking there is a rivet head in void I didn't scoop out which is dancing around...) Turns out it was the box under passenger seat - I'd left licking wheel nut lose... Relief! Reminded me of this advert VW squeaky earring 1990 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DeKmf0YjZXqo&ved=2ahUKEwixt9yl2qWWAxWvcfEDHZJwK7cQwqsBegQIHBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Zpw6gChTxzSCHhW06QzL0 A tip - had an issue removing the blank next to door handle to release wire to door handle. There is a bolt accessible in edge of door. I'd loosened it, but it didn't look near enough to blank. It is important and must be slackened off alot of turns 6 to 8. If you lose bolt it drops into void. Hat boy Harvey useful video on YouTube. But no write up on passenger door. Also get 10 to 16mm bolt lengths. Any longer risks hitting glass / not necessary. I used silicone bead around neoprene seal.

More progress, dump off and new wet belt for the oil pump fitted, new crank seal and dsump back on. Head refitted and rocker cover fitted, all new gaskets for the rocker cover and cam shafts etc. Turbo refitted with new gaskets and new seals for the return and feed lines. Dpf and egr cooler fitted with exhaust, all with new gaskets. New engine mounts fitted. Cam belt and pulleys refitted and timed up. Still got quite a bit to get through but all progress.

Not exactly what I was looking for, but maybe something like this below would work.

Hi all, going to attempt to give as much context as possible because this feels like a weird electrics problem and also we are not mechanics.. he has some car experience and I am electronics and computer related so between us we can probably follow instructions.. My partner’s estate had a strange problem where it would refuse to start after being run for a while, but did start again after being left. It recently had the same problem but had to be recovered, and hasn’t started since. It cranks but doesn’t turn over at all. We’ve had trouble finding mechanics to look at the problem (we are Luton way) but one guy did come by and say it was a dodgy fuel pump. Hard to get hold of these but he (partner not mechanic who is on holiday or summat) swapped it out for a second hand part and it is making the same noise apparently - which to me sounds almost bubbly, like a blockage, air leak or just weird pwm action? After poking around in the forums I’ve noticed quite a few problems turning out to be dodgy relays - and the odbc errors are below: P0230 [0x0230] Fuel pump relay - circuit malfunction Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction Status: Pending ---------------------------- P0030 [0x0030] Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction Status: Pending ---------------------------- P0036 [0x0036] Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction Status: Pending ---------------------------- P0104 [0x0104] Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - circuit intermittent MAF Circuit Intermittent Status: Pending I can’t seem to find docs showing what relay is definitively related to the fuel pump but I did take the attached pic with the ignition on.. tested swapping the 645 that isn’t hot and it also started heating, so the problem seems downstream? Hoping something of this makes sense to someone because I am still traumatised from dealing with the glowplugs on my van and am developing an abiding hatred of nassty stinky dieselses, precious…

He messaged me about 8 hours ago, and I replied to tell him his front brake PR code is 1ZG.

Hello, experiencing the same issue - factory resetter already. May I ask for the 8755 update download link please?

This is a very valid question.

One of my rear parking sensors had started to corrode in the centre. I had a spare that came with the car when I bought it so swapped that over today. Managed to get to it by just loosening off the under tray and working by feel. Straight plug and play swap and all tested working. Kept the old one as a backup spare it still works.

Considering a 2004 Superb 1.9 tdi classic under 50k very good overall condition for year, just serviced but no record of timing belt change. Are they reasonable buys and how much should I pay ?

The pattern for the front brakes appears to be the engine power, where all engine with more than 95HP get the big 288x25mm front brake discs with the exception that the 1.6TDI 90HP also get the big 288x25mm front brake discs. So all engine with up to and including 95HP (except for the 1.6TDI 90HP which gets the big 288x25mm front brake discs) get the small 256x22mm front brake discs. Always check the build codes to be sure, in case there are exceptions...or do a physical check...or go on "skoda parts com" and park you car in the online garage (then when you search for parts such as front brake discs, only the correct ones are shown). "skoda parts com" website https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html Have you messaged Breezy_Pete with your VIN, as the subscription service he uses for things like build codes and OEM part numbers takes away any guesswork...although the "skoda parts com" website should also give 100% accurate results.

Hi Carlston, I genuinely appreciate your help, but if you read more carefully, what I need is the front disks....not the rear -> "how do I reliably identify the type of disks I need for the front? For the back the information is in my booth, on that sticker that is near the tyre reserve. But I can;t find anything for the front." Thanks 😁

All Rapids use the following rear brake discs... 230x9mm rear brake discs (build code 1KT) (TRW rear brake system) The pattern for the front brakes appears to be the engine power, where all engine with more than 95HP get the big 288x25mm front brake discs with the exception that the 1.6TDI 90HP also get the big 288x25mm front brake discs. So all engine with up to and including 95HP (except for the 1.6TDI 90HP which gets the big 288x25mm front brake discs) get the small 256x22mm front brake discs. Always check the build codes to be sure, in case there are exceptions...or do a physical check.

my DSG used to move if you took your foot off the brake whilst in d or R for parking without a problem. I have a feeling you have "Autohold" set on. which puts the the brakes on when you press the foot brake when stopped it then requires the accelerator to be pressed to move. If you turn the auto hold off whilst maneuvering you may find it better.

@Alasdair1 it could simply be injectors sound. A lot of feedback is suggesting it’s completely normal and I guess I’m not familiar with this engine. I’ve only really worked with 1.2HTP, 1.4AZQ and 1.4BBZ Fabia engines. Generally speaking the car did drive great. I did read somewhere it does a kangaroo thing on gear one but I didn’t experience that. Being a CATN all service records were gone but they did have a print out of some service records which seemed good. I don’t think the sellers actually knew it was CAT N and it seems like they’re only selling due to a change of circumstances and not trying to dump the car. I’ve asked for them to MOT it and I’ll pay. And if there’s any issues either reduce the price or fix it and I’ll pay closer to asking price. I would request a mechanic to inspect it but it’s far from where I live and I’m not sure I’m willing to spend extra before buying the car.

Thank you so much

Sounds normal to me. Engine looks very clean as well. Have a good look for signs of oil leaks incase its been cleaned to cover any up. Might be worth getting a independent to have a look as warrior said. From memory AA do a basic one for around £100 or ask the garage you normally use if the car is local. Alasdair

What you have is actually an automated manual gearbox - which, as you are finding, is very different to a TC transmission.

If in doubt, ask vendor if they would be happy for you to comission an independent engineers report on the vehicle.

@Stonekeeper Unbelievable, but when you hear how much the monthly cost of storage is and the length of time the cars have been there, you have to wonder if the storage costs almost equal the final value after x years.

That engine sound does not appear particularly unusual to me.

An issue with that case may be that it's an RFID shield - OP sounds to primarily use KESSY without physically taking key out of bag. I was thinking more along the lines of a small, hard plastic case.

So I've managed to dig out the Fabia service manual I've downloaded back when Erwin for regular citizens was still a thing. Headlight "Low": Headlight "High": ... So the "Low" headlight definitely has no replaceable DRL LED modules or Control units of any sort. But what is also interesting is that for the "High" headlight DRL LED module it says "Part of the headlight, not a spare part". And indeed the module itself has no label with a VW part number. So I'm guessing that if this thing went bad then an official Skoda garage wouldn't want to replace it since they cannot order the thing without ordering the whole headlight. So much for repairability...

I think it's called hiding in plain sight 😉 You would be surprised what people who live in a different world than us do

Engine sound please advise