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Ones on my old Skoda octavia were pretty good they looked like a spline fitting but the one that snapped was on a SEAT which had more of a pattern that locked in place which as I found not nearly as strong. Alasdair

thats not good. Reckon there belts are good but there cheaping out on the other parts. Bit worrying as mine are gates as well. Alasdair

Sorry - I note that the advert I referred to in my last posting does NOT include the spare-wheel!!!

It's 40 degrees Celsius in the sun here, and the problem suddenly arose. My Skoda has 74,000 kilometers on it. I don't know what to do. I could go to the mechanic and ask for a lube... but where exactly? Have you solved it by any chance? Thanks.

“Just a diesel engine after all. IMO.” I take it that your comment is ironic? Although you can never be too sure these days!

I just went for a little drive to get the car up to temperature, then restarted it after 30 seconds or so to check that it still made the chugging/stumbling sound. It did, so I restarted the car, monitoring the fuel rail pressure with the OBD gadget. It idled at around 700 psi, then after I switched the engine off, the pressure gradually began to climb to 1200 over the next 5 mins or so. Google Gemini tells me that is the sign of a healthy and sealed HPFP and PRV, and that it would've likely climbed a bit more if I had monitored it longer. Also says that a leaking injector would've also caused the pressure to drop, rather than climb... suggesting that they're likely fine too. Does that sound accurate? Given these results, Gemini suggests that the prime candidate for the chugging sound is the GFB DV+, sticking/binding when the engine is warm. I'll see if I can get it swapped for a 'Rev G' and check if there's any difference.

Thank you AnnoyingPentium

Thank you dieselV6

Thank you Alasdair

Eon Next EV tariffs Next Drive or Next Drive smart are showing Offpeak back to 7 hours midnight to 7am for those going on these tariffs. It had been 7 hours and then reduced to 6 hours.

Thanks for your reply. Is it the fuse that’s under the glove box, behind the panel above the passenger footwell? I have had a problem with the electrics on the towbar not working on 13 pin, but fine if I put a 7 pin adapter in. An auto electrician had the loom out trying to sort that problem but couldn’t. It may be a loose connection there. I will check that out and post back with the result. Cheers Skiprat.

@Ooopnorth You asked best oil, pitty you never said 'Topping up'. If 0w 20 FS IV was used at the last Oil & Filter service then you should really top up with that. Not that a little different spec of oil will make a difference, just a diesel engine after all. At next service 0w 30 FS III might well be the way to go. As to Brand, matters not a jot as all to the Recommendation Spec does the job. Just a diesel engine after all. IMO.

Checking Your Version Turn on your car's ignition and go to the Menu on your infotainment screen. Select Settings, then look for System Information or Version Information to see your current firmware build. ?

Just bought 1 Ltr of Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30 to keep in the back of the car should a top up prove necessary (no signs yet, thankfully) 👍

Come back at 40,000, or say 140,000. I think the complex procedure is about maintaining the long service intervals. Eg 300,000km belt change interval. I would agree that this will probably work in most cases, but its a bit of a botch job. Cam timing may drift a bit due to inherent tension imbalance between the cam pulleys and crank etc. Also, by loosening the pulleys and tightening the belt before unlocking the cams, you are ensuring the tension is consistent or at least correctly distributed around its length. By doing this, they can run the cam belt out to 300K no worries, probably even longer. Remember many cam belts had 100k or even 60K intervals (thinking Opel Corsa from early 2000s.) Probably more importantly, change the idler. The bearing in the idler is the most common failure I have seen. Obviously junks the belt thus engine when they fail

TDI is VW 508 00 / 509 00. Same 0w 20 FS IV, but VW 508 00 is TSI Fixed or Variable. TDI VW 509 00 is even if on Fixed Oil & filter service. Same with the 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III. 504 TSI fixed or Variable. But 507 00 is a TDI even if Fixed Oil & Filter servicing.

if 88 in xour nick suggest you are born in 1988, than you are to aged to have stiff car suspension. it will become unconfortable. if you like it, go on, aif not, stay with basic B4 which are like OEM.

The only person a locking wheel nut/bolt stops, is you. I had a rounded key on my first car, and sorted the issue with a blank socket and a mallet. I've kept the lockers on all cars since, as the wheels don't come off very regularly, but different designs have varying levels of usability. Usually, the BMW/VAG ones are pretty good - but the two-piece design, like on Ford, are horrendous.

VW Specification: VW 508 00 (petrol/diesel dual standard for 0W-20) or traditional VW 507 00 for long-life 5W-30/0W-30. if you living ih cold climate zone use 0w20, if you live in hot climate, than 0w30. manufacturer, i like Shell (Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30) Shell, Castrol, Aral, Liqui moly...

These 2025 and 2024 forum topics discussed (in some depth) spare-wheels for Fabia Mk4 cars. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533394-fabia-spare-wheel/#comment-5952581 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522682-spare-wheel-and-central-tool-holder/ The 'genuine' Skoda Fabia Mk4 spare-wheel + tool-kit is currently advertised here at £225.15 (Sale price) https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/product/skoda-fabia-2015-2026-spare-wheel-tool-kit/

What you need?

Not for many years as have not had an ICE vehicle. When my son went from ICE to EV about a year ago we tended to go to MFG stations and they seem to get the future as they oft seem to have EV chargers and petrol pumps. Do go in to the Tesco fuel station but only to get a meal deal but they always ask if I have got fuel and I can so no each time. Our Tesco is quite a poor one as no EV charging there and Sainsburys seems to be getting the jump on Tescos and I expect Tesco to lose a lot of customers due to their lack of foresight.

Hi @vmt, We're you able to get closure on this topic? Facing the same "issue" and I'm not sure what to do. Car has 30k km. Thanks

The below foam and jack kit can be ordered for the Fabia MK4 from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number, ie. 6VA093860A. The VAG parts department can confirm whether this is correct for your vehicle by reference to the car's VIN number. The Czech price on "skoda eshop cz" is 2079CZK which is about £74. The below foam and jack kit uses a 185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 spare wheel. Fabia MK4 foam and jack kit (includes everything except for the actual spare wheel) (OEM part number 6VA093860A) Sada pro výměnu rezervního kola 15Určeno pro: Fabia IV.Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (for Fabia MK4) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055 Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 steel rim with fitted 185/65R15 tyre (includes valve and balancing) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cw/tyre-selector?share=&vehicle_ids=1351328927594845284&sortCode=none&limit=15&rimCode=ALCAR4055&rimType=steel&sizeTyresOnCW=noChanges&season=so&price=&brand=Uniroyal&brand=Vredestein