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It's manually retractable as far as I can see, like the OEM towbar, not electric.

I have sent you a direct message

I'd be inclined to send it back. That's even worse than the skinny 18".

Just wondering, my dpf light still coming on seem be every 170 miles, drive it in 4th for 15-20 mins, it goes out then. Anyone ever try a dpf cleaner, to put into tank? Or do they even work? Thanks

There are no 1.0 TSI Citigo,s in Europe, only South America with a bigger fuel tank. So 60 or 75PS MPI,s. It is a VW UP! to get a Turbo.,

Howdy Seeking a way to enable closing of the factory electric tailgate by holding the original interior release button. Vehicle: 2022 Superb III 3V facelift Control unit 6D: 5WC 959 107 Hardware: H04 Software: 0430 ODX: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU536 OBDeleven shows the adaptation channel “Activation using rear lid remote unlocking switch”, but it contains no selectable values. I’m wondering whether there is already any work on: a compatible original or modified parameter dataset for this exact module; the dataset ID/version used; a confirmed ODIS-E/VCTool/VCP procedure? I am not looking for instructions intended for the older 5Q0959107 controller.

Thanks @mac11irl . The one I'm looking at is a 1.0 MPI. I test drive another a week or so ago and just can't remember if that sounded the same but the car pulled well for 60bhp so maybe it's just the way it is. I did sneak a quick DTC check and nothing concerning c. came up. I also drove it round the block again after I posted and didn't really hear the wheeze so maybe it's my ears... If we do buy it I'll go on a hunt as my daughter's pretty keen on it... And if it needs a service, cambelt and check over it won't be the end of the world.

When Autohold is enabled it is not the Parking Brake E-Brake operating. That is rear brakes only. Autohold has the same function as the Foot Brake which you pushed to have Autohold Enabled. Front and Rear brakes. Any movement and there is more brake pressure applied.

Hi folks, I keep getting these codes on my 03 1.4 16v BBZ powered Mk1 Fabia. I keep thinking along the lines of the MAP sensor but not 100%. Both myself and the recovery service I had to call out cannot find am issue with the pipework which I know is a common issue with these. When it fails the car goes into limp mode, with EPC, ASR, and the engine lights all lit. Further it also occasionally loses all power resulting in it kangarooing if the throttle is pressed. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

Thanks for that. Any advice on the trim removal will be useful. I normally manage to break something finding out how it's fixed!

Thanks TT, So when the car is rolling forward at idle with foot off brake, the clutch should not be slipping?

I’ve driven DSG cars since 2013. My approach is to let run at whatever rpm the engine idles at, when you apply the brakes to come to a halt the clutches will disengage. Have autohold ON and the parking brake will come on. Try to leave a slightly bigger gap to the vehicle in front, you will soon work out what size gap is right. When vehicles in front start to move tap the throttle to release the parking brake, let the car start rolling before pressing the throttle more. That’s the reason for allowing a bigger gap, I also react to the brake lights of vehicle ahead of the one in front. I have stop/start ON and this allows time for the engine to restart via a small wiggle of the steering wheel. If you don’t have auto hold you can control the restart with a slight reduction in brake pedal pressure, a further reduction if pedal pressure with engage the clutches and foot off the brake pedal the car starts moving then pressing the throttle. Many drivers seem to dislike stop/start, if only catches you out if you aren’t paying attention to what the engine is doing. There are a few rare situations when it does need tk be temporarily switched off, but it doesn’t damage the starter motor if kill the battery.

sorry mine is an AUQ 1.8T engine

I hope the good folks at Briskoda can help me get this straight, once and for all. Cos getting my head around the PCV valve/breather hose/inlet manifold set-up is driving me nuts. So much conflicting info and diagrams (not on this forum so much) has made me realise the OCC route makes sense. I've got an oil leak and have been trying to sort it out. Rocker cover gasket change= still got a leak. The two mechanics I know are being really evasive (i.e; too ****in complicated for them). So I'm currently replacing a the breather hoses. I was intending to just replace the sections one by one, to avoid mistakes, but a lot of my system has been bodged badly, and some pipes just go to fresh air!Anyways I've got as far as the 'T' and, as we all know,this area tends to disintegrate and is difficult to access. I don't really know what the clump of pipes under the dipstick plate are; I'm currently trying to get the plate out! I have found the end of the breather pipe that goes in above the dipstick / oil filter area (into the manifold) is just falling out. But I've also found there's another valve in the pipe at that point. That makes three valves! One on the 'T', one near the air filter (hockey puck) and now this one. Something strange here. No wonder my oil filler cap blows rather than sucks. Does anyone know how to fit the rigid plastic bend piece that should be in this oil filter hole? Are three valves found normally? Most info I've read suggests two. And I haven't even got to the 'other' branch of the 'T' section. There's two great threads on briskoda covering this- but they're old and if I were to ask there, I'll probably get no answer since they're 2013 or something. And they don't cover the issues I'm bumbling my way through, like removing the dipstick plate, orientation of the two 'green' valves, and why my oil filler blows (Negative crankcase ventilation, if you like). I intend to keep my VRS for at least another year and a daft oil leak is not gonna beat me.This is probably the reason the boost is poor, economy of fuel is down and the leak itself. Thanks people

Guys Just got a Karoq 1.5 tsi DSG. I'm new to VAG and this is my 1st auto box. Trying to understand how box works in stop start traffic. In my manual cars, I would often release clutch pedal and let car trickle along at idle speed. If I do this with the DSG box, will the clutches be fully engaged like in the manual car? Don't want to find that the clutches are slipping to allow this, would hat to damage box. I know they disengage when stopped with foot brake on. Cheers. Love the car, btw.

I would like to try to download an upgrade. Mainly after radio stations logos but from my research it needs to be done manually? Mib1 Octavia 2015. Update in general would be amazing.

What exactly do you need from me? Just link to download 0490?

I only have experience of the 2013 era 3pot 60bhp mpi engine, and even that’s 5yrs ago already 🙈 I know the newer ones got the 1litre tsi. Which missus mac has in her Arona. Would I describe either as wheezy? Maybe. I always described The mpi on a full throttle as a very happy buzz. And it could shift (relatively speaking 🤣) enough to be a fun chuckable little running shoe. The tsi in the Arona is 115bhp, think it was 90 in the citigo? It’s grand, pokey, but always feels like it’s working a harder than it should need to to push on down the road. I dunno if that makes sense. the one your looking at could have a small leak, or it could just be the engine sound if your not used to it 🤷🏻‍♂️

I have a 2017 Octavia with Amundensen MIB2, during a sat nav route, it stopped displaying and had message to insert a media SD navigation card. I have tried with an updated card, but the system doesn't recognise the SD card.

I cant pm you. Im stuck on 0435 can you help please?

I went London - Gdansk last year and what I learnt. Wheel must be quickly accesible in the boot. Not under floor and luggage. Good to have thick playwood (on the soft surface when jack is sinking) When sticker says 3 bar under heavy load pump it to 3 bar kokosal. Dont be affraid the tyre will blow. The worst is overheating sidewall at low pressure 2 bar and then blow. Torch or LED lamp on the legs is must have. I bought normal factory alu wheel and same size tyre fo 60 pounds and another steel for 40 pounds. New tyre 205/55 16 was 60 pounds. buy normal size wheel.

Hi all! I am aiming to fit cruise control to my 58 plate prefacelift, I have acquired the stalks, a BCM (though the numbers on my current one match so I hope I won't need it), I've enabled it on the ECU, but I need help sourcing a loom if anyone can drop a link to the correct one to purchase, and if anyone is able to provide some help with the wiring as I can't seem to find reliable diagrams or instructions! Thanks!

Probably one for the likes of @mac11irl here but... I've been looking at and test driving a 2017 Citigo Colour for my daughter. It looks to be in decent condition apart from the off scrape of paint in the boot and a couple. It needs a couple of front tyres and two wheels tidying a little but one concern I have is that it almost sounds a little wheezy with an open throttle, as if there is a slight intake leak somewhere but I cant find it if there is. Is that normal? And is there anything else I should be looking out for - eg what is the cambelt change interval? Cheers

Not a small job by any stretch, subframe off, exhaust off, DPF, EGR , turbo all off, charge cooler off. Not something I’d like to be paying for I’ll be honest My only concern is this “seam”, not sure if this normal or not, aside from that look good.

I have codes 00050000, 0060300, 0060800, 0060900, 0030000, 0060100, all of them Temporarily Rejected. Missed a leading zero off of some of them