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I've always replaced with an AGM battery, and usually with a Varta - but I know others on here have had problems with Varta battery lifetimes.

Try them.

So I have an iV as well and the brakes took some getting used to. Because of the battery the car does a lot of regenerative braking, so any soft braking is generally regenerative, it can feel really odd however when it switched to actual braking, it can be a bit jerky or take you by surprise. I've gotten used to it now, soft braking for slow stops, but if I know i need to stop quick firmer breaking and it works as expected.

BTW, I posted the same question on the facebook owners page, and got a dozen replies from people saying "Yeah, that' just how the iV is". Seems its not my car after all.

So after 9.5 years, 356,000km my factory EFB battery is on deaths doorstep. Courtesy of a lovely cold snap here in Ireland (2 days of 0 Deg during the night) my Octavia decided it would take it's sweet time to start as well give misfires on crank, thankfully once fired it ran as it normally does, smooth, quiet and same amount of power as always. An OBDEleven scan showed nothing, just random errors that were not flashed as a concern. So this now leaves me with the job of trying to find a battery, engine is 2.0TDI CRMB 150hp. I know I need a type 96 battery, looking around I've found the following: Halfords EFB €190 Yuasa EFB €277 Exide EFB €189 Bosch EFB €220 Exide AGM €195 Bosch AGM €240 The Exide and Bosch units are likely to be less, my experience has been Euro Car Parts online prices are upto 50% more expensive than in-store. That aside what are people's thoughts what have you used in the past?

I have mine permanently off with a module. But i randomly get ACC or maneouver braking not available when first starting, and sometimes a sluggish start. Its either a parasitic drain or a bad battery, and from what I can see battery is at least 5+ years old. I cant see a date on it anywhere

The first sign of a weak battery is that the Stop-Start (if turned on) stops working, even after a long run.

I think after the issues with my MIB upgrade and various recharges etc my battery is also on the way out. MOT friday. If all goes well with that I will treat her to a new battery!

I had my battery done just over the 30 days from owning the car, I explained the situation and saw that a Banner battery had been fitted previously which had then failed, called the break down which was the AA and they fitted the Yuasa battery with Skoda sales taking payment over the phone to the AA chap on my drive who then coded it etc, I have the warranty and receipt also.

It's a common problem with many makes of car. I'm on my 3rd battery for my 2016 Superb & 2nd battery for our 2022 Hyundai Kona EV. OEM batteries are generally cheap rubbish designed to just get through the 3 year warranty. Hyundai/Kia EV's have had 12v battery issues for a while. Interestingly, although our Hyundai Kona car has a 5 year warranty but the 12v battery has only 3 years warranty (8 years on the traction battery). I think Hyundai knew they had installed a !"$£ battery so reduced the 12v battery warranty accordingly. It now has a 5 year warranty Halfords Yuasa battery. Fitted it myself & no coding required.

That's exactly what the alternator will be attempting to do - except it should also be making allowances for recorded battery state. Why is there a mismatch in the battery capacity adaptations ?

As the description says, I'm finding water in the battery compartment on my Skoda Superb Estate iV MK3. So to put it into context, its the compartment when you open your boot, on the left had side (passenger) you open the left hand side compartment door which swings open, to reveal a 12v battery. Underneath that battery is where water is pooling and collecting, very near to where the battery vent pipe goes out the car. Additionally, when I remove the polystyrene type stuff (which is the rear storage under the boot, and holds the tools) there is some dampness on the left hand side, (not deep in the wheel well but more on floor level) - similar level to the battery compartment base. My first thought was possibly the rear light cluster gasket, but I've had that off and it looks completely fine, and the surround where the gasket makes contact with the metal is clean and I cannot feel any wetness behind. Any other ideas of where this may be coming from? Thanks. If photos are needed, happy to supply. I'm scratching my head with this one.

I had to change the battery on my car during the annual service since my battery was completely dead in the morning before visiting the dealer. The OEM battery didn't last 3 years, but I don't complain because it was changed under warranty and the car was coded properly by the dealer(without me telling them explicitly). This is our 3rd Skoda in the family with battery being replaced under warranty, so I got used to it.

Hi looking to fit window rain guards mine is a mk4.5 facelift will mk 4 ones fit. Thanks

That should work well for stopping ... something ain't right. Assuming everything in the system is in order - this means all mentioned above, fluid, bleed, non-sticking calipers, etc ... there is another option you could consider, but you need to make some garage work to check: on my commute-mobile - a modest K12 Micra auto - I also had a feeling of underperforming braking. Mind you, I made over urban 35k km in 5 yrs, so I am familiar with the thing and its behavior, and the pads are little over 25k km, so I thought "maybe I've used them up" .... Well no, they came out like 40/50% worn, but surface was glazed, crystallized. I do go with 'proper braking' once in a while, but is little effect in the everyday driving ... Have a go at check your pads. If they are "shiny", they ain't working effectively ...

No idea but looks like a dreadful problem and hope someone comes along with some creative solution!

How does the car behave when "not" towing? Even if you give it full throttle and drive more aggressively? Also, what oil are you using? I forgot if you mentioned, how old is the car and mileage? Water pump failing perhaps? I am just throwing all cards on the table, there is no way the cooling system can't cope if in proper condition ... I have a 4.2L diesel that does 130hp... Would that be a 1HZ? 😊

Hi all, I have been looking at changing my subframe for the aluminium S3 variant and upgrading to either TT or Passat Wishbones. Has anybody else done this and if so any pointers please. Thanks in advance

Thank you, bigjohn! I have already located what appears to be the external clutch slave cylinder, underneath the battery area, on top of the gearbox. This is good news, as it should make replacement much easier. I'm planning to have both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder checked before replacing any parts. I'll keep everyone updated once I find the cause of the problem. Thanks again for your help!

I think the slave cylinder is the external type with the small cc petrol versions so very easy/cheap to replace. It should be visible sitting on top of gearbox.

Hi all, Been having this issue with my Octy estate (2011, 1.6 MPI) for the last year or so (ridiculous, I know). The car starts and drives perfectly fine (never any lights) for the first ~30 minutes or so, but eventually (usually on the motorway) I'll get a huge loss of power followed by an ESC light and a check engine light. The car is still driveable, just super slow - we're talking flooring it in 5th gear to maintain ~65mph on a flat road. Strangely, the check engine light will come on and off as you're driving, and the engine power will be restored once the check engine light is off (ESC always stays on). Sometimes the engine light will stay off, and the car will drive fine for an hour. Sometimes it refuses to turn off, and I'll have to drive very passively for a while. Pretty consistently, after ~3 hours of driving, the ESC light goes off and the check engine light stays on, but the car drives perfectly fine for the remainder of the drive. Since my commute to work is only 15–20 minutes, I can go week/months without this being an issue, although I just drove Edinburgh → London and back so I had to battle the car for the best part of a thousand miles. Garage has had a look, they changed the spark plugs and ignition coils, to no avail. I've also seen a few people fix this by putting fuel cleaner through the system, but this didn't do anything for me. I'll list a few miscellaneous trends that seem to occur with the issue, hopefully someone can connect the dots better than I can. If the car hasn't been driven recently, I can usually do an hours drive perfectly fine. However, starting the return drive, the issue will arise after almost exactly 15 minutes (regardless of motorway or urban driving). No lights are ever present when starting the car and I can usually drive around the city, or to work, without any issues arising. According to the cars MPG reading in the gauge cluster: flooring the car in 5th gear, 3k rpm gives ~15 MPG when no lights are present, however, during a loss of power event, it will read ~55 MPG and I will barely accelerate. Not sure if this could indicate an accelerator pedal issue, or perhaps something to do with the injection system or maybe the ECU isn't opening the IAC valve properly? The reading could be completely wrong though. The issue mostly arises when driving on the motorway in 5th gear. Sometimes, I can get the power back by downshifting to 4th (removing the light for some reason), or by sticking the car in neutral and coasting for 20 seconds before the light goes off. These solutions only work some of the time. Sometimes the car will 'kangaroo' due to the engine rapidly switching between giving normal power and low power when driving with my foot down with a check engine light on; although I'll normally come off the gas when this happens because I imagine it's awful for the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm completely broke atm, so it would be lovely if I could get in there and have a bash at fixing it myself (within reason haha). Thanks, Louis

First ever post new here and to Skoda, picking up, new to me a 2019 Sportline estate tomorrow, thinking about adding a sub in the boot, Focal sub 10 ( handmade 35L sub box twin ports 35Hz res Freq.) and a Pioneer gm-a5702 amp-a bit overkill but has useful features like auto sensing turn on and variable filters, just wondering where people pick up the speaker input to amp as no line out easily? This way I can run the head unit harder as its not having to push high current through ( the in built amplifier ) for the low frequencies, could push the Xover point to say 120Hz?

No mate, non DCC standard suspension... pretty much whole suspension has been replaced

Never used this myself but worth a shot as it’s free? https://www.halfords.com/car-repairs/car-checks/free-brake-check-PRODUCTBRAKECHECK.html

Sounds like they might need a bleed. Braking performance on a commute won't be down to pads or discs, unless you're running metal on metal!