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Joy_atende eBay I got a second hand Columbus off this chap from eBay when my unit died. He has several units. Although all dearer than the one I had off him for £200. It was mint and fully working and fully updated with pass code. Was about the same price as wire and postage for my broken one. Maybe check what he’s got.

does anyone have MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0363T MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0367T MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0368T mibsolution for 368 is corrupt

I’ve can confirm on my superb the following. I have a later blue tooth box under my car seat that accepts modern iPhone phones and stereo streaming from phone. I use an iPhone mini 13. When paired that button is always available. It pairs as soon as ignition is on. If the media is selected to Bluetooth then I get Waze through the car speakers. And or music being streamed. Google Maps rings my phone via the car phone the telephone number pops up, my own, and the instructions comes through the car speakers. It answers the call automatically. Exciting stuff ;) but weird it calling me all the time

One of the more frustrating things about homologation, is that whilst the regulations use very specific terms, the car manufacturers then use their own terms to describe the same things, so unless you know what they mean in their own "brochure language", it doesn't help much! The Certificate of Conformity will be the definitive document. They're legally obliged to supply one with each car. It just looks like a really boring single sheet of A4.

I withdrew from my Škoda finance agreement last year after 11 days (within the 14 day period) on a 3 month old used Karoq I had to pay £72.38 interest ( £6.58 per day) but retained all the incentives that were given at that time, £250 Škoda Contribution, 2 years roadside assistance and two services.

Firstly which version if the DSG gearbox do you have? DQ200 dry clutch used with 1.0 TSI engine, 1.5 TSI 2wd and possibly the 2wd diesel Karoqs. DQ381 wet clutch used in all 4x4 Karoqs. Auto hold will have an affect as has been mentioned already. I have a wet clutch DSG 4x4 Karoq and a Fabia with the dry clutch DSG. So taking the wet clutch DSG first with auto hold on, gears ca. only be selected with the foot brake pressed, selecting D or R taking the right foot off the brake pedal and without touching the throttle the car should creep either forwards or back, if you are in a slope it might take fractionally longer before it moves. The wet clutch DSG can slip the clutch without overheating because the clutch plates are cooled by the gearbox oil. Sometimes a light tap on throttle is needed to release Auto hold. With auto hold on there is no need to either apply or release the parking brake manually it is released by tapping the throttle and applied automatically when the engine is switched off. The dry clutch DSG operates in the same way but I find it’s a little slower to start creeping. There are a few situations when auto hold has to be turned off and sometimes left foot braking is needed to make progress- I don’t recommend left foot braking. In the 13 years I’ve been driving DSG cars there most awkward situations were trying to creep out into traffic with severe limited view to the right, a car appears to press the brake pedal and then that car stops to let you out and either hill hold if auto hold has to be released before you can move. Reversing up hill is another that can be awkward if you need throttle to overcome the slope. I find with both the Fabia dry clutch and Karoq wet clutch I can use creep without throttle 99% of the time and use the foot brake to control speed. The trick is to use very light foot brake pressure. If you are still finding it difficult then if could be the DSG clutch biting points need to be “relearnt”. I had this done on the Fabia by an independent DSG specialist. Before it was done the Fabia wouldn’t creep without throttle but thd clutches kept engaging and disengaging unpredictably - took 15 minutes cost £160 and absolutely transformed the car. Hope this helps.

has anyone used any of the dark side developments lift kits and sump guard ? im also thinking of a fumoto oil drain valve to make changing the oil easier and also molle panels for storage by the rear windows ?

This is quite a bit longer than my Octavia's key fob, but more importantly I really want the case to be rigid. It's remarkable that VW doesn't provide a slide cover for the fobs. (Neither has any other manufacturer whose fobs I've ever seen).

This is where I ended up looking, too; of course, I can't find on Amazon a plastic box that is almost exactly the size of the key fob, and as much as my purse is something of a bottomless pit, it doesn't have huge amounts of extra room. I'll keep looking.

Good evening all, Could someone assist please? Just brought a 2018 Karoq and the DAB doesn't find any radio stations. Have tried a reset which has not helped. Been told I may need to update the system to make it work. Is anyone able to help? Images attached of system information. Thanks in advance.

Make & Model: 2013 FL Skoda Superb V6 Elegance hatchback Colour: Cappuccino Beige Mileage: 83500 Price: £7250 Description: After 8 years I'm reluctantly selling my 2013, 63 reg Superb V6. I've enjoyed every minute of ownership (save for filling it with super unleaded) and it has proven to be an incredibly practical, reliable & subtle means of covering distance swiftly (when required) yet as unobtrusively as possible. Anyone who knows anything about the Superb V6 will know how rare they are and just what a capable car it is. The engine is detuned a little from the 300bhp on offer in parent VW's R36 Passat but the car is still very rapid and planted when it is asked to be, especially as the superb-sounding (pun intended) VR6 is coupled to all four wheels via a 6 speed DSG/Haldex 4WD combo. The car has always been serviced to schedule and has a full service history - by both Skoda main dealer courtesy of the first and only other owner - and a VAG specialist under my ownership, & has never wanted for anything. It had a replacement Haldex unit fitted by a main dealer under warranty within the first year of my owning the car but otherwise has not required any other major items. Being Elegance spec the car has pretty much all the convenience and luxury features available at the time including black full leather, A/C, Sat Nav, DAB radio, Bluetooth for phone and music, AFS bi-xenon headlights, heated electric seats etc. The interior is in very good condition whilst the exterior is good but could do with some slight attention due to a few stone chips and scuffs front and rear. Also, the alloy wheels will definitely benefit from being refurbished - something I have always intended to get done but just never got around to. Additionally there is some patterning on the chromed window surrounds on the c-pillar glass and a couple of the heated rear screen elements are inoperative due to the ham-fisted removal of a previous dealer sticker by the Skoda dealer from who I purchased the car. The original Skoda umbrella is present, still in its supplied plastic wrapping and there is a rare and unused space saver wheel under the boot floor. The car is still in light use so the mileage may increase slightly. MOT valid until 18/ 11/ 26 More photos and additional blurb here: https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C2097409 No P/X, holding or swaps. Thanks for looking. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Full Skoda and VAG specialist history, next service due late 2026 Extras: n/a Mods: Car is standard except for two plug and play LED number plate light units (not excessively bright like some). I still have the originals with their bulbs too. Shipping: n/a Collection: Yes. Guildford, Surrey Pictures:

I've done it three times and have always had to make multiple payments with no issues at all (apart from the hassle of going through the whole process each time). I've done it by calling and using my debit card. I think the issue was VWFS would only accept £10K at a time. I've just found the email from the first one I did, where I queried it as I think the letter did make it sound like they wanted one payment. "Thank you for your email regarding payment. We can confirm you are able to split the transaction over seperate days. please complete the remaining amount on consecutive days. Please use your agreement number as the payment reference number."

Hi. I've got a pronounced rattle at tick over, goes on increasing revs, also goes if I'm rolling slowly forward and apply brakes. Belt etc changed 40k ago. Is it possible to get access to the belts and then run the engine to try and figure out what's rattling? Also i believe injectors can cause knocks, can this be checked somehow? Thanks Mick

Hi. If anyone ever has any issues with insurance for a previously written off vehicle then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Both check your PMs

Hi. The installed 7-pin trailer connector on my Fabia I combi (6Y5) is very flaky, and my plan is to replace it with a new 13-pin connector, which most trailers have now and not need to to use the bulky 7- to 13-pin adapter However when the old connector was removed i noticed there was an extra cable going to a little switch which is grounded (pin 3) when a trailer is not connected (i guess). What is this extra cable used for? Is it possible to just rewire the normal 7-pin to a 13-pin connector? I do not need constant power or ignition switched power to the trailer.

The only information i have found in my paperwork on this states "Driver alert system with driver monitoring" nothing listing ADDW or DDAW. However general Internet search states both systems are fitted. I have noticed that the system does not alert if I'm wearing sunglasses, which suggests that the AI? monitoring my eye movements need recalibration or an improved algorithm.

Checked my fabia's sills and there is rust creeping under the paint. I had odd rusty bit that turned out to be stone chip and not deep rust. I discovered thearea just ahead of the rear wheel is susceptible to corrosion. There is a fibre/plastic - tar manufacturer rust protection under paint. I used sharpened wood chisel to remove. The metal flaked. A hole has appeared. The rust has progressed under the sill rather than from above from wheel arch. I've previously used etch primer elsewhere, high build, topcoat, clear coat. Not always that durable. I bought stone guard spray paint to protect against stone chips which is why I was prepping sills. I've rubbed rust down to bare metal except some rust in pits of metal. I was going to use rust converter but read it is not compatible with primer. I'm going to use epoxy p40 isopon and some P38 after curing. I'm using epoxy spray primer 2k. I read I can add putty isopon first then the epoxy primer after curing or vice versa, as long as properly cured. The reason I'm looking at epoxy is that it is fully waterproof and stops rust. Can I add stone guard over epoxy primer then top coat 1k then 1k or 2k clearcoat? If not how would you do it? Is this correct? Thanks Front is not too bad, just behind wing - see image. Both sides of car rear end of sill are affected. The paint there looked fine and no bubbling. Since photo taken I've rubbed down rust.

Just to finish off - the rivnuts are a success. I got 304 bolts metric M3 for speakers and M5 for rest of door. Wife took car out and said there is a noise 😔 😭 (me thinking there is a rivet head in void I didn't scoop out which is dancing around...) Turns out it was the box under passenger seat - I'd left licking wheel nut lose... Relief! Reminded me of this advert VW squeaky earring 1990 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DeKmf0YjZXqo&ved=2ahUKEwixt9yl2qWWAxWvcfEDHZJwK7cQwqsBegQIHBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Zpw6gChTxzSCHhW06QzL0 A tip - had an issue removing the blank next to door handle to release wire to door handle. There is a bolt accessible in edge of door. I'd loosened it, but it didn't look near enough to blank. It is important and must be slackened off alot of turns 6 to 8. If you lose bolt it drops into void. Hat boy Harvey useful video on YouTube. But no write up on passenger door. Also get 10 to 16mm bolt lengths. Any longer risks hitting glass / not necessary. I used silicone bead around neoprene seal.

More progress, dump off and new wet belt for the oil pump fitted, new crank seal and dsump back on. Head refitted and rocker cover fitted, all new gaskets for the rocker cover and cam shafts etc. Turbo refitted with new gaskets and new seals for the return and feed lines. Dpf and egr cooler fitted with exhaust, all with new gaskets. New engine mounts fitted. Cam belt and pulleys refitted and timed up. Still got quite a bit to get through but all progress.

Not exactly what I was looking for, but maybe something like this below would work.

Hi all, going to attempt to give as much context as possible because this feels like a weird electrics problem and also we are not mechanics.. he has some car experience and I am electronics and computer related so between us we can probably follow instructions.. My partner’s estate had a strange problem where it would refuse to start after being run for a while, but did start again after being left. It recently had the same problem but had to be recovered, and hasn’t started since. It cranks but doesn’t turn over at all. We’ve had trouble finding mechanics to look at the problem (we are Luton way) but one guy did come by and say it was a dodgy fuel pump. Hard to get hold of these but he (partner not mechanic who is on holiday or summat) swapped it out for a second hand part and it is making the same noise apparently - which to me sounds almost bubbly, like a blockage, air leak or just weird pwm action? After poking around in the forums I’ve noticed quite a few problems turning out to be dodgy relays - and the odbc errors are below: P0230 [0x0230] Fuel pump relay - circuit malfunction Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction Status: Pending ---------------------------- P0030 [0x0030] Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction Status: Pending ---------------------------- P0036 [0x0036] Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction Status: Pending ---------------------------- P0104 [0x0104] Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - circuit intermittent MAF Circuit Intermittent Status: Pending I can’t seem to find docs showing what relay is definitively related to the fuel pump but I did take the attached pic with the ignition on.. tested swapping the 645 that isn’t hot and it also started heating, so the problem seems downstream? Hoping something of this makes sense to someone because I am still traumatised from dealing with the glowplugs on my van and am developing an abiding hatred of nassty stinky dieselses, precious…

He messaged me about 8 hours ago, and I replied to tell him his front brake PR code is 1ZG.

Hello, experiencing the same issue - factory resetter already. May I ask for the 8755 update download link please?

This is a very valid question.