All Activity

Hey everyone! Hoping someone can help me, im currently trying to put an Android unit in my skoda, and cannot seem to find the correct 52pin plug adapter. I have the Fibreoptic decoder for the canton sound system and the can bus box pictured below. But the connector seems to be incorrect every time... Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Go to a VAG specialist independent in future. Discs do not fall for being lipped, that's a racket a lot of garages do, new pads maybe. It's too late now but with your car only doing about 7,000mi a year you could have had it serviced every other year if they used long life oil. Good luck with your future, I hope it is stress free.

Our 1.5 TSI never cut out, bought new in 2018 and sold earlier this year after 8 years of trouble free motoring. Now replaced with another one, DSG this time.

Hi All My 2011 superb 3.6 is causing me major headsches. Car starts great & then immediately dies. can start it again imeediately no issue but then dies again unless I push the throttle down & get it up to around 25 - 3000 rpm but even then it runs rough & will die again if revs drop Have replaced fuel filter at rear, ensured line from filter to low pressure sensor is clear, have fuel to the in side of the fuel rail(?) . no codes come up when interrogated relating to engine control etc. Is there an easy way to test the HP fuel pump is working correctly? any other thoughts & suggestions are welcomed. Do have misfires on nearly all cylinders when I can get ot to run on high revs.

You decided to keep it then?

More news of Electric truck roll out by Amazon are other logistic companies......

Gandalf (MY17 Superb 220 FWD) is currently on Stg 3, producing 400 hp 550 Nm at the wheels. Previously I ran Stg 1 for approx 5 yrs before going to Stg 2 briefly then Stg 3 last year. I've had no issues with any of the stock hardware over the many years. The Stg 1 was an APR Hi-torque tune producing 300 hp 540 Nm at the wheels. Supporting mods then were R600 intake, turbo inlet pipe and elbow. I also had a TCU tune, which made a big difference. Now I've got an IE intercooler & downpipe, Garrett Powermaxx Turbo with stronger injectors. The Galano TCU tune has a Boost-by-Gear function that is specific for the FWD, that does an impressive job putting the power down through the front wheels without wheel spin.

F28 is heating Windshield if you have. When Not, this is the Error

Yes, missing

Hi, thanks for your patience and time. There's no fuse in that spot. Maybe the cowboy mechanic who replaced the ABS removed it. Is it possible that 30 should be in the 29 spot? I'll get another one and see if that works.

I’ve just checked the wiring diagram for left-hand drive models. SB29—meaning fuse 29 in the engine bay fuse box—is a 50A fuse; it should be supplying power to the fuses that currently have no voltage.

My mistake, the under bonnet fuses are good. Just needed to turn on the ignition and those ones are live. Interior fuses 32, 34, 35, 36, 37 and 38 have no power.

Ok, so fuses 13, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23 and 24 under the bonnet have no power to them. I'm guessing there's a plug or two not plugged into the back of the board. Any tricks to lifting the board out, I don't want to make things worse. TIA

Hi, full refueled this evening and 17th fill-up in a row under 7.0l/100km. Not that bad for a big 1840kg bear with 200HP. 🙂

@JR RS I think that's a question for you! 😉

Dragging this up, did anyone ever have a confirmed higher stock output from the 220 engine? Looking at doing a remap but not wanting the full 300bhp that most quote, would be happy with 240 - 280

Welcome to the club

Hi, glad you joined. I drive an Octavia 2014 petrol

Hello again, to convey my previous experience, but I also need a little help. I have been researching this dq200 hoping to solve the problem myself because the price they are asking in Belgium and surrounding countries is crazy. After watching a lot of videos on how to disassemble and assemble, how to test various parameters, I found that I lose pressure very quickly, that the pump works properly and builds up pressure, and I established that it is not a mechatronics problem, but a pressure accumulator or an aluminum plate. Since I couldn't test where the crack is (I don't have a compressor or suitable adapters), I bought a replacement accumulator Kinergo MSU04 for pressure, oil for the mechatronics and for the gearbox, as well as the digtung cover and tubular oil filter and prayed to God that it wasn't a plate. I did not measure how long the pressure holds before replacing. Now with the new one it lasts about 18-20 seconds Does anyone know how long the pressure accumulator should hold pressure while the car is idling?

Indeed. The withdrawal of the Federal EV credits caused sakes to drop big time. EV sales have recovered a lot with fyel doubling in price. The Buzz will need to be biult cheaper, LFP pack etc and buyers happy to pay for a premium over rivals.

Cahill in Dorchester

I thought they were not building in the USA in 2026 until dealerships clear stock.

yeah gates or dayco, for example, OE timing belt for 1.5 tsi engine is made by Dayco. For the Volkswagen Group's 1.5 TSI engine (brands such as DADA, DPCA), Dayco produces the main camshaft timing belt (catalog number 941060, 20 mm wide and 163 teeth) and the smaller oil pump or water pump belt/belt (catalog number 941160, 81 teeth). It is about Dayco HT (High Tenacity) patented technology, better known in the automotive world as "White Belt". The white layer on the inside of the teeth is a special film of PTFE (Teflon) patented by Dayco and bonded to the basic nylon-aramid (Kevlar) fabric that covers the belt teeth. Extreme friction reduction: When the teeth of the belt fit into the grooves of the pulleys, friction occurs that over time "peels" ordinary rubber belts. Teflon dramatically reduces this friction. The belt slides smoothly and almost completely eliminates wear on the fabric of the teeth. Protection against lateral wear: The belt moves slightly left and right during operation and hits the edges (flanges) of the pulleys. The white PTFE layer also covers the lateral parts of the teeth, protecting the belt from lateral "backlash" and cracking at the edges. Modern 1.5 TSI engines have high direct injection pressures and develop enormous temperatures under the hood (over 120°C). Classic rubber would harden and crack over time. The Teflon and advanced HNBR rubber from which the belt is made remains elastic and stable for years Internal structure (fiberglass): Behind that white layer and the rubber, inside the belt are strands of high-modulus fiberglass woven into a spiral. These ensure that the belt does not stretch at all over the years and kilometers, thus keeping the engine's timinge perfectly accurate. you dont need that for alternator belt, but i read this on Autoteile.

Ha! I'm planning a drive to Prague next month. Couldn't have picked a worse time for petrol prices... I wonder if they'll give me a discount for driving a Škoda?