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Okay, thanks for the feedback 🙂

@Alasdair1 The specification of the tyre fitted to the 16"-diameter wheels of Skoda Fabias Mk4 cars is 195/55 R16 91 V XL with the 91 Load Index figure indicating that the tyre has been tested as being capable of carrying a per-tyre load of 615kg. The V Speed Rating indicates the tyre is suitable for a car with a maximum speed capability not exceeding 240km/h (149mph). And XL indicates Extra Load (ie. reinforced construction). Assuming you plan to fit replacement tyres with that specification, there is plenty of choice at a wide range of prices. Each different tyre should carry a label having the data explained here https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/tyres/what-do-your-tyre-labels-mean/ (The Noise Rating relates to the noise the tyre produced when the vehicle is being drive, but it's reasonable to assume that, if a tyre produces a lot of 'external' noise, that noise will find a way into a car's interior.) However, although the tyre label is helpful and independent testing and car ownership comments can confirm the accuracy of the label, the 'softness' of a 195/55 R16 tyre and its ability to absorb the bumps on poor-quality road surfaces will depend directly on the pressure that the tyre is inflated to. The Skoda recommended pressure for Fabia Mk4 tyres is 2.5 bar (36.26psi). This is on the high side for a car of the Fabia type and undoubtedly will result in a firm/harsh ride, particularly on rough roads. This has been discussed here a couple of times in the past, but, for a genuinely 'softer' ride, the only realistic option is to use a tyre-pressure well below the 2.5bar recommendation - say 2.1bar (30.46psi).

Yep - annoyingly with the maps there is absolutely no feedback loop to tell you it’s running, it’s progress or it’s finished. You either have to check the maps date on the software page or notice an out of date map is updated to be correct.

Could be the dogbone bush is worn or perhaps an engine/gearbox mount. Reckon as its related to accelerator being pressed and lifted it must be engine torque related. If its a metalic clack Worth checking the subframe bolts as well. Alasdair

Thanks manimal69 - that's quite a respectable mpg figure for that power of car on a good long journey- no doubt short / stop - start journeys will knock that down a good bit but it seems like Skodas stated Average mpg figure isn't that far off the mark. ( very unusual for a manufacturer )

Worth logging it before you buy anything else. On the 85kW 1.6 TDI the torque is meant to be there from 1500 rpm (Skoda quote 250 Nm from 1500 to 3000), so a car that feels fine in 1st and 2nd but runs out of puff in 3rd to 5th is usually one that can't hold full boost under real load. In the low gears the revs climb so quickly the engine is never loaded long enough to show it. With VCDS or similar, do a logged pull in 3rd from about 1500 to 3500 rpm at full throttle and record: 1. Boost specified vs actual (on newer VCDS versions these are in Advanced Measuring Values rather than the old group 011). If actual lags well behind specified, a couple of hundred mbar or more, you're looking at a boost leak or sticky turbo vanes. Check every intercooler hose and joint for oil and splits, especially the lower ones, as a small split often only opens up under boost. 2. Air mass specified vs actual. A lazy MAF can do exactly this with no warning light. 3. DPF soot load and differential pressure. At 125k a part blocked DPF will hold the car back more the longer you drive, and that "something holding it back" feeling with higher fuel use fits. The EGR cleaner helping is a clue in itself, as it points at the air side rather than injectors or the clutch. The judder at 1500 in 3rd under load can also be the dual mass flywheel, so if the logs come back clean it's worth getting that looked at. If you post the log up on here people can tell you a lot from it.

It should work on any MEN2 unit. In my experience it only didn't worked on VW Polo 2021. At first it was odd that 2021 car have MIB2 (MEN2) unit at all... On this topic you can find different situations people had, I cannot be sure about those situations as they could be caused by many factors, possible not bx patch itself.

Hello, i don’t think that’s the solution. It can’t be so sensitive. I guess that after changing my front silentblocks for new ones vibration is slightly back. Car is more stable but vibrate sometimes. I found better solution - drive 140+ and there is no vibration at all

Hi everyone, I'm planning to retrofit heated seats into my Škoda Octavia Mk3 (5E) and would appreciate some advice from people who have already completed this retrofit. So far, I have purchased the following parts: - 5E0 820 047 N – Climatronic control panel. - KUFATEC 43340 – Heated seat retrofit wiring harness. I'm planning to install a different set of seats with factory heating elements. Before starting the installation, I'd like to make sure I have everything I need. Could anyone who has done this retrofit let me know: 1. What additional wiring, connectors or adapters might be required? 2. Do I need any additional wiring between the seats, BCM and fuse box? 3. Is my existing BCM compatible, or might it need to be replaced? 4. Does the retrofit require any additional modules or relays? 5. Is any coding or adaptation required using VCDS or OBDeleven? 6. Is the KUFATEC 43340 kit sufficient, or are there other parts I should purchase? I'd really like to get everything working as close to OEM as possible, including control through the Climatronic panel. Any advice, part numbers, wiring diagrams or links to previous retrofit guides would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

So with obd eleven you don’t have to get credits? What’s the advantage over vcds, that it can be done from your phone rather than laptop? I found most of the coding items on the vcds thread on the forum are one click things on carscanner. I’ve had to use long coding very little. The list would be handy to have though thanks.

I have an OBDeleven with Pro Lifetime subscription. Tis great for lots of things, including Long Coding and Adaptation changes. I never use One-Click Apps. I've made so so many changes, bout 6 yrs ago I made a 15-pg PDF of various code changes that work on the mk3 pre-facelift. It's OBDeleven and VCDS ready. Happy to share it if u want. There is also a "Tried and Tested Codings" page on this forum somewhere.

I use my rear fogs when needed, gives you more light as you reverse.

I use carscanner app and this dongle https://amzn.eu/d/02erD0i9 It’s £36 for the dongle and £8 for the pro version of the app. No subscriptions. It does all the basic reading and clearing of codes, live data etc. It has the majority of the “tweaks” you would want to make pre programmed as selections. This includes service things like opening the rear brake calipers and coding battery etc. As per this list: https://www.carscanner.info/coding-mqb/ You can also do long coding but it doesn’t have the same helpers such as a tool like VCDS but most of the time I need to do it I’ve asked people on the forum and found what I’ve needed to do. There are a few things it can’t do like some adaptations and dataset coding but often you would need VCP or ODIS for that sort of thing anyway. It also has a CarPlay app where you can make dashboards from any data source so you can monitor things like transmission temperature etc. I have found that for the price it’s unbeatable and does nearly everything that a mid level DIYer would want to. The ultimate tool would be VCDS but that is around £225 but can do everything you need except dealer level online coding things like component protection. https://m.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=2009361245&gclid=CjwKCAjwo5bXBhAEEiwAkgpgXDjr7VRHYIiufMXCWsIb8mS_SSSj7lprJkcTEbAkCM7cPZszbZEBnBoC96kQAvD_BwE

Hi all, I bought these 3D printed diffuser fins off of Etsy and think they look decent. I've read on some forums that the original creator of these 'Nifty' shared the 3D print files and someone in the UK is now selling them on eBay in the UK. Nifty is based in Australia, as am I. They cost me about $85 delivered as there was a sale on when I was looking. There are other versions that fit if you have a tow bar and also for the mk4. They were really easy to install as they use the four screws that are already in the bumper.

Hi everyone hoping to get some help with my mib unit I am having issues connecting to android auto On MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T 5Q0035874A I have tried everything I'm aware of so far and now I'm thinking it's got to be a software/firmware issue. I've tried several different OEM cables and 5 different phones (iPhones and Android) I have replaced the usb port with " 5Q0 035 726 E " aswell as a new HSD cable from the head unit in the glovebox to the back of the USB I have also tried 3 different byte 19 codes and checked that android auto and is enabled in 5F module the usb has been set to "full" but after all of that I still cannot get any to be recognised it seems like the usb just isn't sending data I haven't had the car very long maby a month but I have yet to get smartlink to work Bluetooth seems ok however it does drop out from time to time and is around 15/20 seconds delayed I would really like to get Android auto working as I do a lot of motorway miles and I like being able to easily change music to podcasts ect.. if anyone can help or possibly point me in some other direction I would massively appreciate it 🙏

Hi everyone, looking for some advice. I've got a 2016 Skoda Rapid Spaceback 1.6 TDI 115hp (CXMA), 5-speed manual, with around 125k miles. I've been experiencing progressive power loss. 1st and 2nd gear feel reasonably good, but as soon as I get into 3rd, 4th and 5th, the power just drops off. It struggles to accelerate, especially uphill. I also get juddering when accelerating in 3rd at around 1,500 RPM. Power loss and juddering gets worse the longer I drive. I've been to a few mechanics, but keep getting different suggestions: charge cooler, DPF, EGR, injectors and turbo actuator. Some are even pointing to clutch and flywheel. I've changed the fuel filter and used EGR cleaner, which improved things noticeably, but the problem hasn't completely gone. No warning lights, and the engine doesn't noticeably run rough. Has anyone experienced anything similar with the 1.6 TDI? Just trying to narrow it down rather than keep replacing parts without knowing the actual cause. Or maybe scrap it at the end for an Octavia. Another thing to mention, no issue with clutch slippage its like there is resistance holding the car back and thus more heavy on the fuel consumption. Mechanical have suggested just to keep driving untill it breaks down. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks for that. Found one on eBay for £30 which is slightly more tolerable than new at £80 odd but now know what vehicles they’re from so I’ll keep my eye out…

Challenge accepted

@Zlatko580 Hi, Could you summarize exactly which train versions this solution is compatible with? Thanks in advance 👍🏽🙂

Ok, thanks. Appreciate the reply nonetheless.

It’s borrowed from a VW, won’t put the full model Part number is 3T0 947 417 F 9B9 I can get a clearer picture tomorrow if needed

Mine is 3T0947417B. Looks like it goes up to E. I’d be keen to know your part number @Danoid it’s on the inside under the battery cover. Mind you it’s £80 odd from Skoda so swapping might be the best way of getting one!

If this is the map update I think it means engine running. It will do it as you drive and auto continue in the background from where it left off. You don’t have to do it in one go.

I have just dowloaded the update via the portal. been waiting on a new sd card and laptop being returned. the instructions say the engine needs to be on for the duration of the update. is this the case or does it mean the ignition on. cheers

Hi @pab567 567, I'm looking for firmware MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 for my Skoda Fabia. Unfortunately, I can't send private messages yet because I'm a new member. Is there another way you could share the download link? Thanks!