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There isn't much. It says the usual stuff - there's disabled everything except the mandatory things and nobody's saying what does include. Basically it can be anything. I'm a bit tired of this nowadays "everything for your safety" thing. Phone that sends information about me, car that does the same etc.

Thanks for that. Interesting - much the same as mine. The strange thing is that my Yeti has been parked in the same garage overnight ever since we brought her home brand new from the dealership and this has only started happening within the last 2 weeks. Showing her age or perhaps she has a secret little place.

Calling all fabricators who've made their own custom CAT/DPF deleted DP's. Have had mine deleted from the ECU, so I'm keen to physically remove them now. Just wanted to see how others had gone about it before.

i have empty buttons on Karoq 2019, how can i use empty button for something i need?

An adventure and learning experience for me in my electric car journey. I took my "Urban" nominal 40 KWh battery to Liverpool on the weekend, 240 mile round trip, fair bit more than the cars WLTP range. Decide to public charge on the way home, despite having had the time to do a bit of a charge on the way up, mistake number 1. Got to Liverpool and still had 80 miles left or reported left, planned to charge at Gridserve Sandbach Services South, somewhere I have successful charged before. Tried several charge bays, half were taken, got one to give me a bit of charge but only got a few KWhs, charge unit reported problem after credit card had been verified. Should have tried again probably. Pushed on to Frankley service South so only 22 miles from home. The Gridserve chargers accepted payment method then just stop before actually commencing charge. Mistake 3 was I should have crossed the car park and gone to the Tesla public charges. I wanted to test the Urban R5 to the limits so cracked on even though car only showing 2% battery which the Urban R5 does 2 miles per 1% of charge. I know my Scenic will do 20 miles past 0% and Bjorn Nyland had done 29 miles in a 52 KWh R5. So carried on down the M5 cruising about 55 mph, some lovely long down hills from the Birmingham plateau down to the Severn Valley floor. Passing Droitwich, turn before Worcester North, the "Restricted Performance" came up. Could start to fell it as I got off at the Worcester turning. Should have turned off at Droitwich really as the 30/ 40 /50 mph back roads would have been better than the 55 mph motorway. Good charging spot in Droitwich at a small Sainsburys /Costa which is "only" 72p which I could have dived in to a few miles from home. So I conked out of power about 500m from home, dead, Xmas tree of warnings though was able to park up safely. walked home, got a home battery and a Granny cable put it in the Mini Cooper E and parked next to the 5 and stuffed some charge in it. Got it home and charged up, no ill effects it seems. Several lessons learned, charge when you can, even if half full, if one is going in to the service station for a comfort break and McDs. Try other charges even if Tesla and you really don't want to give a Musk company money. Check you type pressure and make sure plenty pumped up but not too high. Get off the motorway and drive at 40 rather than 60 as much more efficient for EVs and less likely of a dangerous breakdown. When car says Restricted Performance it is going to stop quite soon. On a positive note my lad took my Scenic to Brighton, near 400 mile round trip. Range at start showing just over 250 miles, did not charge on way down and stopped in the magnificent Gatwick Electric Forecourt on the way back. Dedicated EV charging place 30 odd chargers, Costa etc. Highest possible charge speeds. Half hour stop, time for a hot chocolate and look around, cost 59p per KWh. Car went from 20% to 90% so only a two thirds charge, got home still with 15% ie 40 miles left. I would rather I had problems than my lad so actually an overall useful experience. I now know the limits of the R5 Urban which I would have taken but my lad's need was greater, it would have been fair bit more hassle to take his Mini EV or the R5 Urban than my Scenic which did admirably. Always the thought occurs that should I have got the 52 KWh R5 and /or the 90 Kwh Scenic but for the relatively few long journeys I am quite happy with my choices still. Sadly late Autumn, Winter and Early Spring is ahead and cooler temperatures are ahead which do affect range. I like to change cars quite often and there are a host to look at, the Nissan LEAF 3 which has just been made Auto-Express COTY 2026, a revised R5 with more range. It will be European as I am against Chinese cars and even Korean ones on principal. (Yes Mini is Great Wall Motors but that was not my choice). Been a few negative and cheap charging days in the last month and looking forward to VAT going to 0% in 4 weeks time though I fear for energy prices in general for the state the world is in at the moment.

Interesting to know, thanks. I may try the silicone spray on the belt first as taking those trim panels off is a pain in the... fingers (and if you wear gloves, it just makes it harder :-( )

Right, thanks for that. I did wonder if having the ignition being off would be sufficient, it seemed odd that the system would be live if the car wasn't switched on!

Better the devil you know. Gaz

Almost a month after I disconnected the Skoda infotainment from my iPhone CarPlay, everything is OK—no volume issues. Temperatures were over 35+ for the whole of August. I will now connect Skoda to my iPhone and see whether the issue returns over the next few days. If the issue appears, then it is a software bug/glitch with Skoda infotainment and Apple CarPlay.

Thanks for your reply, it's 220k km, well maintained.

Just received this from Skoda Digital Services Support, hopefully it will be the fix for this issue: Thank you for reporting this matter. We understand that repeated update notifications can be confusing and inconvenient. We would like to inform you that a final solution for this behavior has already been prepared. In the coming two weeks, an OTA software update will be released to resolve this issue and prevent the notifications from recurring. Once the update is available, a notification will be displayed in the vehicle. To install the update, the installation will need to be approved in the vehicle. We apologize for any inconvenience caused and thank you for your patience and understanding. ŠKODA Support for Digital Services

If you can live with your facelift car front end looks (I could not, which is why I bought late pre-FL 2016 ), then I'd keep what you already have for another 3+ years and just service it as and when needed. New one has smaller fuel tank, more software issues, drab interior, less powerful engine and worse suspension. It does look better than the Mk3 FL, just my opinion. What's the mileage on yours?

Already mentioned and perhaps you have tried this, but quite a few radios unlock if you turn ignition on, then turn the radio on afterwards. Some radios need a full restart by pressing on button for about 30s. The key is stored somewhere in the ECU. I know this was the case in our Mk1 Superb as well as Roomster, radio got accidentally locked out in both but recovered.

I used 'radiator cowl' and found it as 'kryt chladiče', though would have tried 'shroud' if I was still not getting good results.

As above, look for the radio code in handbooks, paperwork, etc. - it's four digits. If no luck, there's online services who will decode from the serial number, or you'll have to contact a Skoda dealer. If all else fails, plenty guides online for fitting an aftermarket stereo to these.

Another word for it might be Shroud.

Still waiting... The service center has been waiting for two weeks now for a reply from the importer (tech support) to finally figure out what the next step will be. Honestly, I'm at my wits' end with them and I'm this close to calling them up and giving them a piece of my mind about why everything moves at a snail's pace.

I keep a drip tray under the front of my Yeti in the garage. There is almost constantly a small pool of water formed - approx under the driver's footwell area - even after a week of non use. I did check once and it is where the air-con drain is located.

I had the same problem last summer. I cured it (after some Googling) by cleaning and then wiping both sides of the the whole length of the part of the belt that goes into the drum with a silicon spray. And also a squirt of silicon (not much) into the drum mechanism after removing the trim to gain access.

@digibum Any progress?

That window motor is a passenger side unit from a Left Hand Drive T5 Transporter, so not the correct part for your Roomster. That can't be made to work fully/correctly despite fitting OK mechanically. It should be 6Y1959801, and the last line of the label should be SK258DDRS, not VW750PDLS. I'll message you to discuss options.

If it's the original radio it won't need a code entering after battery reconnection, it'll just sort itself out. The engine ECU won't lose anything either. It is mainly Haynes playing it safe. The airbag system (which includes seatbelt pre-tensioners) won't be active unless ignition is switched on, so just don't do that and you can leave battery connected.

Some photos, that I can't upload to first post. And I found one modification is missing • Hazard light button in darker "vine" color from T5 facelift (bolt on) There's photo of spoiler that I'm thinking to install to my Fabia. Also I've found photo of VRS prototype cluster

Hello all. Last post on this topic is mine, and I can write my new rare modifications that it did. • OEM Leatherette door armrests, they are very rare, I was searching for them for about two years. There will be uploaded photo how they look • OEM Audi A3 HomeLink retrofit kit installed in dash above ignition key • VW Scirocco steering wheel • OEM Sportline red seatbelts • I also have OEM Tour de France yellow seatbelts in my collection, but not installed in my car, i like red more • Dealer option boot shelf with net • Elegance spec double buttons on side of driver's seat (fuel tank and boot realise) • Focal IS VW 165 speaker kit in front • UIS7862S android car audio installed with integrated DSP, connected to small high level amplifier. I've installed one 20A LC-filter on 12V line and 4A LC-filter on ignition line. Connected UGreen Bluetooth 6.0 LDAC adapter to AUX cables of android through Sonic Sciencific USB filter for better sound quality • 12V power outlet in boot from high spec Combi • Double boot lightning, like in high spec Combi • OEM Škoda umbrella, placed in passenger side door • OEM Škoda Laurin Klement rag • Centre console armrest retrimmed in leather from eBay (OEM look) • Climatic control knobs changed to Polo 6R ones (not bolt on) • Milotec cluster chrome rings, Golf mk6 chrome needles and small VRS sticker in bottom side of cluster • Front dome light changed to Passat W8 one with chrome sunroof switch • Rear dome light (side dome light of Golf 4) installed in rear plastic above head and "open door" function connected to front dome light bulb, so when I turn on front dome, rear dome lights also • Sunvisors from Polo 9N GTI, now left and right side has mirrors, card holders and electric contact that allows to install sunvisor lightning. I already have full kit to install lightning, it's waiting for right moment • Rear bumper Maxton lip installed • Front red Turboworks strut bar installed • New rear camera installed in license plate lighting • Small Laurin Klement sticker on centre air vent, I think I can call my car a little bit Laurin Klement with all my options installed😅 Plans for near future: • Rear homemade red strutbar • DIY driver oriented tweeter housings in OEM style • Rear dome light with red pictogram lighting as front (found one company that can make one for me) • Maybe install some more sporty oriented black leather seats in front, as my seats are worn out, or maybe renovate mine. I'm thinking of TT ones, or A6 C6 ones with electric regulations • Door handle ambient lighting like in Superb mk1 • Fabia WRC like windscreen electric heating with custom made button in central side of dashboard • Heated windscreen washers • Bigger windscreen washer bottle from Fabia with front light washers installed Now I don't have much ideas, because I did almost anything that I want. If you have some ideas, feel free to tell me, thanks.

Since I've had my Fabia Mk2 I've found that, especially in the summer, the inertia reel on the drivers seat belt tends to get stuck when it's very warm. This often means that (even if I pull it very very slowly and gently), it will "lock" as if it's been jerked sharply. Generally speaking, though, when it's cold, I don't have the same problem. If i jiggle it repeatedly, eventually it will free up and I can put it on as usual. From what I can see from the Haynes Manual, it's not that difficult to get access to it and, from another thread I've read on here, it's probably just that the works have got a bit gummed up over the years and some cleaning spray and new lubrication should sort it out. My issue, though, is that Haynes says to "Disconnect the Battery Negative" before trying to do anything like this, presumably because of the "explosive" tensioner mechanism. But it also says that the ECU will lose its "learned" settings and the radio will security lock until I put in a code (which was probably lost by a previous owner long ago!) So is it actually necessary to disconnect the negative terminal if I'm not going to be disassembling the mechanism? Is it just Haynes being overly cautious? Advice would be welcomed.