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Yeap, but it happened. I remember it was living hell; thank god for the hot water bottles that we all had to take with us to bed each night. I remember how we had to relocate the beds away from the windows as they froze up every night, where our breath formed condensation on the glass and almost immediately turned to ice.

Hello Everyone. I have an fabia mk3 1.0 tsi 110hp 6 speed manual 2017 with around 81k km on it, It was bought used at around 78k km. I noticed the sound after around 1k km of usage after i bought it, i asked the previous owner about it but he either doesnt recall having ever heard it/felt it or forgot about it. To clarify the issue: When you press the brake pedal you can hear and feel a spring like sound and feeback into the pedal, there are multiples of these sound for one press of the pedal. I tought it was air in the system, after i bled the air out of all the brake calipers the issue was gone for a little while, but it came bake not long after. ( this air bleed was done twice and after i changed front and back discs and pads and brake fluid ) Does anyone have any suggestions ? i might try to record it to see if the camera picks it up. I also checked the abs sensor to be clean and properly seated and bolted.

@JulianR Have you made any progress on your suspect parasitic current drain?

Do these speed limit warnings also display when you aren't towing?

You tell kids today and they don't believe you. (Said in a Yorkshire Monty Python accent). Going on for 3 months was amazing.

Does the file on the SD card need to be zipped or unzipped ? I was able to format the SD card using a windows laptop but now i have problems updating the software

The arcing and sparking that may be happening between these brushes and the sliprings could be causing various electrical problems.

At 13V the alternator is barely working at all. If original, the brushes are probably worn to the point of barely making contact.

Yeah, the 62/63 winter was no fun over here either; diesel froze in the tanks, roads were impassable near me with snow impacted on the A12 up the straight 3-mile hill with vehicles abandoned all over the place, and my parents' house had ice on the insides of the windows, and having a bath was impossible due to the bath and the plug hole, along with the downpipe to the outside drain being a solid block of ice. Winter of 1962–1963 in the United Kingdom - Wikipedia

Did the letter say "Withdraw", and, if I may, how much was the interest charge? One of the VW Group salesmen told me the reason they're not bothered is people often say they're going to pay it off but then don't. So it's a numbers game - as long as not too many people start doing it.

Hi, we don't have a capable code reader apparently. I'm usually in Bristol, it's due to have a service so I'll ask them to do that, thanks so much.

With air holding more moisture we might see much more snow. I dont remember the winter of 62/ 63 as i was only 1.5 years old. Saw lots of snow in Canada in mid 60s even though our latitude same as south of France ie in Toronto area. Recall we had lots of snow on Dartmoor winter of 1980 think it was. We had temperature of -20c in 2010 with freak cold spell here in Worcester. Prefer it to 38c and local town like Stourbridge and Pershore catching 🔥. Going to be interesting. Perhaps feet of snow in the winters and 40c plys in thd summers. The number of heat related deaths will be huge. Couple of thousand in UK in 2003, 70k in Europe. Suspect we will see half as much again than this for this year and more again in years to come.

Hi all, hoping for some input before I throw more parts at this. Fault: P0118 (coolant temp sensor circuit high). Started with a dead-flat -50°C reading on G62 in the diagnostic software (VCDS/ODIS-style tool), on both data groups showing coolant temp. What I've tested so far: - Unplugged G62, tested sensor connector directly: positive pin to battery negative read ~3.5V, negative pin to battery negative showed no continuity. - Bridged positive to negative on the connector — still -50°C on the laptop. - Bridged the positive wire straight to battery negative — still -50°C, no change at all. - Since G62 is a ground-referenced sensor (dedicated return to the ECU, not chassis ground, i belive), I hard-wired a new ground/return wire from the sensor pin straight to the ECU connector, bypassing the harness. Result: Worked fine initially. After driving a while, values went erratic, then dropped out completely. Stopped the car, values came back roughly normal. Now noticing that revving the engine (even stationary) makes the readings turn to garbage. New finding: The oil temperature sensor is doing the exact same thing — erratic/garbage readings under revs, fine at idle/stop. Two unrelated sensor circuits failing together under the same conditions. Checked the alternator: output is sitting at 13V, not climbing with RPM as far as I've tested so far. Given two separate sensor circuits are misbehaving in sync with engine speed, I'm suspecting a charging system issue (weak alternator, bad diode/ripple, or a poor ground) rather than two coincidental wiring faults. Planning to do an AC ripple test across the battery terminals next. Has anyone seen this exact combo before — P0118 plus other sensors going haywire under revs — and did it turn out to be the alternator, a ground strap, or something else entirely? Any input on where to focus before I pull the alternator would be appreciated.

I have not seen more than two days of Snow for years. 12 years driving a school bus and only a handful of snow days.😄

Thanks very much, @dieselV6 . It turns out that the OBDeleven device that I own is first generation, and while it can show instant snapshots of live data fields, it has no way to record or graph them, so it's near impossible to get useful data from it :-( That said, I managed to get a screenshot: Refrigerant pressure: 16.0 bar (ambient temperature mid-30s °C) Temperature after evaporator 7.3°C Compressor load 16.1Nm Compressor active, no shut-off condition is present Compressor current, actual value 0.360A In the past couple of days I've driven over 1000km in 30°C+ (peak, 43°C outside temperature, idling in stop-and-go traffic up a mountain), and at no time did I get a sense that the A/C wasn't working. It would still be nice to actually know, but I'm not in the market for another €100 or so of diagnostic hardware. Yet. Thanks again! -Jay

@Alasdair1 I did want to get a diesel but considering this can be such a bargain I don't mind the slightly lower fuel costs and smaller engine. I don't really carry many passengers but would like to embark on a long trip with my partner one of these days and last thing I'd want is the car crapping out on me for something overlooked. Since its salvage I don't think it will have any service history at all...

It's a while but I always have it changed with the timing belt

You can use blowers without having aircon switched on, however, you may find your car mists up. At least that's what happens to mine when I switch A/C off

One can see why Trump wants Greenland !

I think we would be not too bad in the English Midlands but north of Birmigham could be not pleasant weather wise. 4 wheel drive vehicles will be needed much more. Was quite impressed with Toyota's system on the 4 wheel drive Prius. Only 10hp to the rear just to get it moving and keep moving. Much easier to do on an EV whereas on an ICE car means big weight increase and big in the already inefficient power to movement figures and cost.

Hmm, that puts a slant on it. Just how much have we in our part of the world helped the warming by the exporting of our manufacturing to the Middle East, for instance, in the pursuit of greater profits, i.e., corporate greed? If we never did, then there would be less pollution being created in the Middle East and far fewer goods being shipped around the globe, and there would be more jobs created locally. Now I suggest that we should get back to the electric traction topic; good or bad, it's all about exchanging ideas and opinions.

These days the costs of repairing cars are mad so many good cars are automatically written off. If its got a full or good service history and been repaired properly it should be ok. Timing belt these days is I think 130k (loads of different opinions) but I still do mine every 5 years/60k to be on the safe side. Have had mk2 octavias for years and no major problems. My current is 1.6tdi and old one 1.9tdi. Excellent cars to drive. Thinking of going petrol soon as I dont do long runs anymore and DPF is getting past it. Alasdair

Is it possible to use heater on its own or must always be with aircon running?

Climate models from organizations like the UK Met Office suggest that if the Gulf Stream system collapsed, London's average summer temperatures would drop, and the intensity of normal heatwaves would soften.

@Alasdair1 I did run it by my current insurance (AA) and it's not really much of an increase. I don't think they'll refuse to insure a CAT N car with just bumper damage. Confused.com also offered 700/year -East London - 15k miles a year - SDP&C They said the underwriter will insure it and I don't really mind the CAT N marker as it's just a front bumper replacement - I agree it is a bit of a worry, but that's what test drives and in person viewings are for. if he's really iffy then its a day trip to a different city and enjoy some local galleries. I'm more so looking at what to look out for during inspection. previous owner before this person had it for 11 years, so it seems like they got into an accident and insurance paid them out for it? If it was me I'd take the money and get myself an upgrade... I think it will still be a good car, If I can get a good look at suspension, engine components, take it for a nice drive and know what to look out for I'll be fine and wouldn't mind spending four thousand on what is ideally a really well spec'd car with almost everything I want on it.