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Pretty sure no warranty covers tyres or any consumables on the car like brakes, fluids, oils, filters, shocks, suspension joints etc. Additional insurance "warranties" may cover, or partially cover such things, but that's quite some extra money upfront each year, especially on a brand new car. Sorry to hear you got so unlucky with the flats lately. I'm quite certain that if you bought a spare wheel then you wouldn't get any flats then ;) As to the unsprung weight, I am replacing the 18" skoda comet rims that are 13.2kg each according to Skoda with jrwheels SL01 18x8 , that should weigh around 8.3kg each, so that will be already a huge reduction of almost 20kg of unsprung mass on the car, but if it would be possible to remove additional 4-6kg and also get same premium threads but cheaper - well that would be a win win scenario. As a matter of fact i planned to get 5 rims and tires, to get a full size spare wheel. As I understand it should fit in the spare wheel well, and the canton sub should fit inside of the rim, or am I mistaken? Going back to the main topic, indeed, the circumference difference is too big for daily use, considering all the electronics on the car.

@lol-lolcan't believe that has been approved.

One VW EV owner got his no-driveway charging sorted......

Check the spark plugs as a first step.

I copied contents to root of my 64gb type c usb stick formetted as exfat week ago and it still didnt update. Is your usb formatted as mbr or gpt?

Wow. Those results are fantastic.... Very impressive!

1.0 Tsi 3 cylinder in a mk3 Fabia. 2018 reg with 110,000 miles. It's run perfectly for 4 years until last week when it started misfiring when under heavy load. Cleared all the codes and drove it. Code p303 came up, misfire on cylinder 3. I swapped the coil packs over between cylinders 2 and 3 and went for another test drive. No misfire and no fault codes. Very odd. There was a bit of oily mess on the boot on pack 3. Could that have been the issue? Or will it come back? Is it worth replacing the coil packs?

When I had my recent problems I was told by the technical team that they have an update that would cure it. They would send the update to the local Skoda dealership who would install it for me. Only problem was that the dealership wanted £200+ to do the update.

I raised these constant updates with Skoda UK yesterday, to be told today "Our technical team has previously applied a general solution to prevent the reappearing software update for all affected vehicles. As the notification about the update keeps appearing in your vehicle, we would like to additionally investigate this situation with our experts. Please provide a phot of the update notification in the Infotainment system for additional analysis. We apologize for the persistent technical difficulties and appreciate your understanding." I've since sent photos of the first basic message asking me to update the software, and then ones describing what will get updated, and also one showing my car's software levels. Not sure what this will do though apart from confirm their fix hasn't worked on my Karoq!

I have finally sorted out my problem. After trying numerous things which resulted in various messages on the screen about timing out/ failed to connect/ try again later etc. I created a new email address, which I will use exclusively for the car. I then went to the Skoda ID portal logged in and changed the email address to the new one. Next I went to the My Skoda app deleted everything. Then uninstalled the app. Reinstalled the app with the new email address and password. Went to the car deleted all user information, then registered with the new email details. It then allowed me to become primary user and all my Skoda connect details were again available Glad that I didn't pay Skoda the £200+ that they wanted to sort out the problem.

Zinc primer is of dark grey colour (at least high purity zinc one), zinc-aluminium primer is light grey to silver. So choice of colours is rather limited unles you coat the zinc layer with paint. Personally, I'm happy with the underside of the car being 50 shades of grey ;)

Nope, no more notifications, thats blank now.

05L253019F

Turbine overboost in most cases is indeed related to stuck geometry (vanes) or a malfunction of the actuator (its vacuum/electronic parts or the N75 control valve). Since your car is under warranty, your main goal is to correctly record this defect for the official dealer so they don't dismiss it as an "accidental error." On a 2020 Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (likely an EA288 or EA288 evo engine), the engine control unit (ECU) uses the modern UDS protocol. In Car Scanner, these sensors (PIDs) are well-defined. 1. Which Sensors (PIDs) to Select in Car Scanner: Connect to the car, select the correct connection profile (Skoda OBD-II / MQB), go to the "Live Data / Graphs" section, and select these specific parameters: Engine RPM: Engine RPM (rpm). Gear: Target Gear or Current Gear (crucial to see the exact moment of the DSG shift). Target Boost (What the computer requests): Charge pressure: specified value (measured in hPa or mbar). Actual Boost (What the turbo actually delivers): Charge pressure: actual value (in hPa or mbar). Actuator Position (Crucial for the dealer): Positioner for charge pressure actuator: acknowledgment or Activation of boost pressure control valve (measured in %). 2. How to Correctly Record the Log (Driver's Guide): You must record the log under high engine load to force the turbo to peak boost. Find a safe, straight stretch of road (ideally a highway or a slight uphill slope). Move the DSG gear selector into Manual mode (M). Engage 3rd or 4th gear. Slow down until your engine speed drops to 1500 RPM. Press the "Record" (Play) button in Car Scanner. Press the accelerator pedal 100% to the floor (Wide Open Throttle). Do not press it past the kick-down click, so the DSG doesn't automatically force a downshift. Hold the pedal down until the engine reaches 3800–4000 RPM. At this point, shift up to the next gear (e.g., from 3rd to 4th) while keeping your foot heavily on the gas, and continue driving for another 3–4 seconds. Stop the recording. 3. What to Look For in the Log for Your Warranty Claim: Export the data as a CSV file or look at the graph in the app. The smoking gun for a faulty VNT geometry/actuator on a 2.0 TDI will look like this: As RPM rises, the Specified Boost stabilizes (e.g., at 2500 mbar). The Actual Boost shoots way past it up to 2900+ mbar. The Actuator Position (%) drops to its minimum threshold. This proves the ECU is trying its hardest to open the geometry and dump the pressure, but the actual pressure won't drop because the mechanism is physically jammed. Immediately after this layout occurs, the car will throw a glow plug light (coil) or Check Engine light on the dashboard and enter Limp Mode. Take this graph or CSV to your official dealer. They will be forced to run a guided actuator test on their ODIS diagnostic system and will most likely replace the turbocharger or the electronic actuator under warranty. Once you record the log, let me know: Were you able to capture the pressure spike on the graph? What specific error code (e.g., P0234) did Car Scanner read when it happened? Feel free to share the peak values (specified vs. actual) here for a quick analysis!

Hello, it is pouring a little water into my trunk rear light. I am planning to unmount the light and try to seal it with silicone glue. My question is, if I open only the trunk during the replacement: Will I need diagnostics run after I fit my light again? Will there stay any warning/error on my infotainment. Will my dynamic blinkers run again?

My car has never updated over the air

My car has never updated its infotainment system over the air before

Do you have any notifications (number in a circle) in the to right of the infotainment? After the big 0334 update, I had 7 unique updates for different features including the shop application

Hi, Hope this isn’t a dumb question. I have been checking out the workshop manuals for the Kodiak but see most have date ranges 2016 - 2017 - 2019, my car is a 2022 and I wonder which of the manuals provided will be correct regardless if it’s for a 2019 or 2022. Engine and transmission is easy as I can go by product code but all the rest is a bit of a mystery to me.

Could it be a tyre? I pose that question because on my previous car, a Mk2 Superb, I had a low noise which I thought was wheel bearing; the Master Technician at my local dealer came on a short drive with me and his thoughts were wheel bearing. Put it on the ramp, checked, bearings were fine. Turned out to be a tyre. A very slight bulge on the inside tyre wall, probably caused by some pot-hole. Changed the tyre and noise gone. According to the tyre depot the bulge was so slight it would not have been an MOT failure but there was some minor structural damage internally. If your rim is dented potentially your tyre is damaged too.

Hi Just in the process of buying a 2022 Kodiak Sportline 1.5 TSI ACT DSG in grey, should be cruising next week. Been a Jeep rider for 20 years followed by several crap company cars , not crap as in unreliable but just not fun to drive. Main interests are my dogs and reading sci-if, always worked on my own cars so hope to be able to do the same with this one.

Actually that’s probably not a question for this thread is it, a whole different subject maybe.

Not sure I trust AI when it comes to car parts...