All Activity

not the best, it is old version till 2018. but it will survive..

Welcome to the forum. Have you managed to unlock the vehicle after replacing the fob battery?

In the previous update I completely failed to mention the one thing I found which almost certainly contributed to the reliability issues. Doh! Near to the ECU plug in the engine loom, the insulation of the N75 valve signal wire had a significant hole in it. There was sufficient surplus length in this wire to allow me to cut out the damaged section and solder the cut ends either side. I did not find any corresponding damage in the injector wires, but I did replace the ECU plug at the end of this loom with a new OEM one. Getting rid of the carbon cannister produced a couple of collateral benefits, in addition to removing a potential root cause of poor reliability in the wiring. The first of these was a minor simplification of the under-bonnet plumbing. The cannister purge valve releases vapour from the cannister into either the turbo inlet pipe (TIP) or the inlet manifold, depending on pressure differentials. As the carbon cannister was located at the NSR of the engine compartment and the connection to the inlet manifold is on the throttle body at the OSF corner, this meant there was a hose running all the way along the back and off side of the engine, plus a branch from a T-piece into the TIP. This is now gone, and the inlet manifold and TIP have blanks fitted instead. This is only a small win, but it is one step towards the planned overhaul of all of the engine hoses. One length of this hose is currently employed along the top of the NS inner wing, between the fuel tank breather pipe and the rollover valve by the back of the headlight. Another win, small again, is that the ECU mounting bracket incorporated a bracket to mount the carbon cannister. With this no longer being required, I trimmed the ECU bracket to remove both the carbon cannister bracket and another bit designed to support the clutch cable (I think). My Caddy has a hydraulic clutch so that support is of no use. Having tickled the ECU bracket with the angle grinder, I gave it a quick go of the satin black paint. The photo shows the trimmed and painted ECU bracket, with the surplus carbon cannister attachment alongside. The final collateral benefit is the freed-up space. This makes it much easier to access the wiring in this area, and will facilitate some further relocation / tidying in the future. I swiftly found a new use for the vehicle-side loom ECU connector which I had removed a few days ago. Previously I tried and failed to make a cable to enable me to do a VCDS scan of an ECU on the bench rather than in the car. Investigating the current unreliability has led to me increasing my knowledge of the wiring around the ECU, and this included the diagnostic connections. Applying this knowledge allowed me to get right what I had previously got wrong, and have my new comms cable work first time.

Thank you all for help. I've purchased: - Varta EFB N70 Battery - Bosch C30 Charger to try recover old battery & potentially charge the new one - Vgate iCar Pro 2S to code the new battery - intAct Battery-Guard Monitor Now just praying things will arrive, especially worried about battery.

Hi, Correct me if I'm wrong, but I fear EFB and AGM are note fully interchangeable. IMHO If OEM battery is EFB, I'd rather go for an EFB instead of gambling a bit on AGM.

Sounds like you've dealt with it sensibly. A cut or tired valve core seal can cause a slow leak, so it's worth rechecking that tyre's pressure after a few days to make sure it's holding. Also make sure each valve has its cap on, as the cap helps keep dirt and moisture out of the valve.

Good shout, Binx. A monitor like that is handy for spotting a drain, since you can watch the voltage dip overnight. Konrad, if the new battery also sags after a couple of days parked, that would point to something staying awake, so it's worth keeping an eye on the readings once you're sorted.

Yes, I saw everything, I had the Kodiaq and Octavia in mind. Sorry for the incorrect information.

Radar is behind panel in centre of top grille.

2017 Mk3 Saloon 1.2 110 SE-L. Came out to vehicle earlier today - neither key working (no red LED when unlock pressed), and zero response from vehicle. Confident 12v battery is decently charged (successfully used day prior...) Changed key coin batteries (BUT - both keys flat at same time?) Went for manual key entry, so removed drivers door handle cover. The key inserts, BUT barrel rotates freely 360 degrees - no unlocking! Therefore - UNABLE to enter vehicle, and needed to bus to work. Any ideas, please? :-(

Oh man, doesn't it have the radar in the bumper? Sorry, I had that wrong in my head just now 😞

MQ 250 seems to be my transmission code Got it from my build sheet That better?

After getting my Kodiaq back from Skoda Service, the issue sadly returned after a couple of days. They swapped out the window guides, which didn't fix it. Still trying to figure out what's going on. It's driving me crazy as well.

Could be the wire to the red LED in top of door. Alasdair

It’s just preference so far - I don’t lift the car enough to warrant spending £90 on four. One does the job! Trust me, they aren’t falling out. I ended up having to drill, cut and pry the first one out. Once they go in, they’re in!

Thanks for that. Presumably the Octopus vehicles are just the dealer stock. I guess the ID Cross will be a similar timescale?

On this topic, sort of, my older daughter stupidly left winter tyres on too long the summer before last, MOT man spotted "tread tearing" on the older 2 front winter tyres, so that meant replacing them before this winter. I went to check them over last week, I could measure the pressure on one, but not on the other! It looked a lot like the new(?) valve core (her winter wheels have steel bolt on valves) had been screwed really hard down into the valve body - that is not good! So to take ownership of this problem and avoid her needing to waste time taking that wheel back for "sorting", I stopped off at Halfords and bought a pack of 4 new valve cores and replaced that one. Originally, the top of the pin on the valve core was 2.5mm below the top of the valve body - and the seal on that valve core looked extremely distressed/cut when removed. So much for using workshops that deal with Blackcircles and are convenient.

Hi all, an update on this issue. I received the below response today from [email protected]: "Regarding the Škoda Superb IV plug-in hybrid, currently the Departure Planner function is not listed as available for this model. Licensing and availability of this feature may vary, and at present there is no official information indicating that it can be added via a software update to the Superb IV. We understand that updates have been released by VW and Seat/Cupra for similar PHEV platforms; however, Škoda’s offerings and update paths may differ. Please be assure that your request for the inclusion of this function has been forwarded to our development team for future consideration." In other words, we could do it, but we might not. An email to this address raising the issue might help?

Information on install and mesh here:

Not quite. Manual says certain conditions as to when it should be done. When bumper removed it says check conditions as to whether it needs calibrating. It does not mean always when bumper is removed but only if bumper is changed due to impact or if it’s been knocked during bumper assembly:

So thought I would create a project thread - don’t really have any good photos yet, just the photo from the original advert I do have a good few plans now but I currently like driving it as a standard car 🫣 Here is my list - don’t think I will do much more than this… Shorter plates? - need to assess what holes are there from previous owners OBD Eleven Pro for coding Front tints - tinted sunstrip Upper grille to honeycomb Cut out intake vent Turbo inlet and hose to standard air box Panel filter Lowering springs & spacers Fit aftermarket discs & pads front / rear (DBA?) Paint all calipers - silver or grey Remap Change all bulbs to white led - long list 19 x 8.5 alloys 245 tyres Always happy for comments and suggestions though 👌 Will be slow progress I feel

Hi everyone, I'm planning to replace a plastic headrest guide on my 2024 Skoda Octavia IV (NX) with sports seats and integrated headrests. According to the official Skoda repair manual, the backrest upholstery and foam padding can be removed together as one complete unit by releasing the retaining strips at the bottom of the backrest. However, the manual also instructs you to remove the entire backrest from the seat frame first. Has anyone managed to remove the complete backrest upholstery and foam without separating the fabric from the foam and without removing the backrest from the seat base? I'm trying to avoid removing the approximately 23 upholstery hog rings, as I only need access to the headrest guide mechanism. Any experience, pictures or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Again....done it dozen times with no issues. U don't have to do every thing official manufacturer spec. Official manufacturer requirements also state u must do an ACC & Camera Recalibration everytime u do a wheel alignment.......how many do that!?!? Almost none, even the official dealerships themselves don't. I do 2x wheel alignments a year, never done a calibration - radar is still on point, so is the lane assist, so is the SLA. The point is that it can b done without needing calibration.

U need to split the grille off the bumper anyway, in order to split grille and the grille surround. Save urself some $$$ Here is the bumper without the grille....

@386ka I haven't yet as really still not sure what to do. The B4 is described as an OE replacement, but whilst I want to restore the ride to what it should be, there is no point in replicating what I have! And not sure if the B6 might be too harsh. Your mention of Koni Special Active is interesting (especially when I am of the generation that Koni were to go-to for motorbike shock replacement!), and although nothing reported on Octavia Mk4 fitment, other reviews are pretty positive, so it could be a good option...I am investigating further. Decisions, decisions, but eventually I will have to do something as I am really not getting used to the handling.