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must of been an accident didn’t even know what that meant do you also mean unplugging the sensor connected to the airbox

The H on the left of the display suggests that you have pressed Hold. Deliberate to show me reading, or accidentally?

@chetski I recently came across this video in a timeline; I think it should be a good fit. Spareparts: D 16V 150uF 157C B 10V 22UF 226A

Yes, pin 11 of the male connector, if that was the one that measured 0V on first test. Is that with MAF connected or unplugged?

Here I have attached a photo of my multimeter

Buy yourself a CTEK MXS 5.0 Battery Charger Run it on the Recond option. Brought my battery back to life after suffering similar issues to your own, and it's worked flawlessly since

Set it to 200 ( not 200k) and just stays at 1 doesn’t budge am I correct in putting it onto the male end with the pins

I always use Mann oil filters and if your lucky to live near a TPS that's willing to sell to the public, The Quantum engine oil range is a lot cheaper than other places. The 5w30 was approx £25 for 5 litres compared to dealers at around £ 50/£60 for 5 litres..

Check for broken wires in driver's door bellows.

There's several threads in here about the many pitfalls in aftermarket fitting of towbars to Karoq's, so probably worth a search session using the box top right. Of course while you may not tow, the next owner might, so the vehicle has to be fully compliant. Although I believe some models escaped the factory with no towing rating & so can't be fitted regardless. If it were me I'd want a certified towbar already in place, or make it a condition of sale that the dealership fits one before completion. IIRC, there's been more than one instance of buyers finding out the hard way that what the dealer told them doesn't match with reality...

Hello everyone 👋 I have enabled the needle sweep function on the instrument cluster of a Fabia FL model by modifying the EEPROM (24C32). While the needles light up during the sweep, the scale illumination remains off. Is there an offset within the dump that would allow the scale illumination to be activated during the sweep? Alternatively, is there a way to activate the entire instrument cluster illumination as soon as the ignition is switched on? Thanks in Advance.

I have a Fabia 1.4tdi 2009 and every winter I have an issue with the instrument cluster flashing and beeping on a cold start. This only happens when the car is cold, once warmed up the issue goes away. I’ve taken the cluster out and taken to a cluster repair specialist but they couldn’t find any faults (although I did drive to them and problem had gone away by the time I reached them). A few other observations I've noticed when this happens: sometimes the clock resets back to 00:00 as it warms up, the problem changes in that the cluster works fine for 10-15 seconds and then beeps 3 times as if its resetting no issues with radio, fan, internal lights, etc when this is happening if I have the headlights on the beam light on cluster is not affected (ie. everything else is flashing but that isn't impacted) Can't upload videos as they are too big so hope you guys can see these video links: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Idh3pB5Cwqo46qo1DZxd8pRM6GQX5ix9/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/151agm9it9jrHUWum-JavA5lYXz3mrzK8/view?usp=sharing Anyone seen a similar issue? Could it be a problem external to the cluster (eg. a sensor giving a bad reading or something while cold). Also, I’ve seen photos of a few different clusters in these forums and online but never seen the one I have. Is it a cluster that was used for a limited time. Any advice would be appreciated. Everything else on the car runs perfect.

Shame it excludes the 1.8TSI, but since that's also an EA888 engine (like the 2.0TSI) I'm hopeful there's enough commonality for it to still be useful.

The lowest range of Ohms, probably 200. Yes, pin 11, black/yellow wire.

The language of this forum is English please post only in English.

Ah right I see what number ohms should I be on it’s went a bit rainy at the moment so I can’t do that now am I also correct in saying that PIN number 11 is the black and yellow one?

Once you know which the load side is (0V from first measurement), you are then switching meter to measure resistance (Ohms). From that pin where there was OV, to chassis or battery negative. Report that number. A dead short will read 0 Ohms (and so cause fuse to blow if connected).

When you say a dead short would you say that when I put it on the pin it would read 0 volts? I kind of assumed that because it’s not connected to the other side which supplies the power? Kind of confused sorry

One side says 12v (female) the other says 0

Finally getting round to doing this today with work and it getting darker at night will try now

I did a test on mine today with a Topdon battery tester. My car is a diesel vRS 2.5 years old and 75,000 miles. The test result ( attached) doesn’t look promising . Do i have symptoms? Kind of. Mostly the odd low voltage code but it seems to crank strong enough ( even on a frosty morning) and the start stop works flawlessly. I was hoovering the car out the other day with doors open for about 20 mins and the crank did seem a little low afterwards with a tyre pressure monitor fault briefly flashing up on the screen. Should it be replaced? 2.5 years doesn’t seem long but my car probably has more extreme usage than most. Anyone else changed your batteries prematurely?

Hola. Alguna actualizacion para mi MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0359T. Gracias de antemano.

Hi all! Early this year I purchased a lovely red 2.0tsi Octavia vRS Mk3 which I absolutely adore. However, I've had an issue since i bought it (which i didnt notice at the time) that when i open my doors, or turn the ignition off, the interior lights don't come on at all. hey do work with turning them on manually, and i have tried changing home the button sits etc too. Am i doing something obviously dumb here or is this an electrical issue I should get looked at? Cheers.

Hi all I am going to change the thermostat ( not getting up to temp) But I’ve discovered by looking at the thermostat a pipe must push in with a O ring on it Doing a bit of research it appears to be 06B121687 Does anyone know if this is correct I tried to call dealers yesterday but the parts department weren’t open Car is 2 litre Tdi 170 manual Cheers all

Can't help with the bolt-on and ECU side as I haven't done that exact swap, but one thing worth sorting while you're buying the donor is the paperwork, as the long block will carry a different engine number to the one on your V5C. GOV.UK says you must update the V5C when you change the engine, and for a change of engine number DVLA want one of these with it or they reject the update: 1. A receipt for the replacement engine that shows the engine number and cylinder capacity. 2. Written evidence from the manufacturer. 3. An inspection report done for insurance purposes. So when you buy the DTTA, get the seller to put the engine number and the cc on the receipt. If the cc is the same as your DSUD it's just the engine number that changes on the log book. Worth telling your insurer about the engine change at the same time, even if you keep it at 85 kW.