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I swear VAG just cannot leave anything alone. Latest update. Car’s in to do the front ARB as I can’t be assed to do it given the feedback from the car. H&R one - you take the clamps off, replace the bushes with the H&R ones, then fit it all back. Garage phones me up and shows me this: The clamps are welded together. You can’t get the lower section off to replace the bushes in the clamps. It now all comes as one 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯

Have you tried pressure bleeding it yet. Might be worth a try. If its air stuck in the ABS then you could either bleed with vcds or did read if you dont have vcds etc a few sharp brakes on gravel so ABS works can force air into regular brake lines so you can then rebleed to clear. Alasdair

As to rattle the pump should turn smoothly with some resistance at certain points. If its rough or rattling I reckon its probably had it. If something internal has failed it could feed debris down fuel lines and wreck injectors. Dont suppose you have a diesel specialist near by that could take a quick look for you. Alasdair

Pollen filter is @ 2 years or sooner. Check it. Change is easy. Brake fluid schedule is 2 years. Air filter should be inspected, they might leave for 6 years. Inspect, check, look, hinge lube, etc etc etc. Stuff that cars always need. Especially when not doing much driving.

Not sure if it should rattle but read that you require special Dial test indicator guage with extension pin. The timing port is between the 4 high pressure lines probably under the centre cover held by the torx screws. From what I read it may be a garage job due to special tools required. Think you need a timing kit similar to this but never done the timing on a pump or used kit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/407231762606?_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338990945&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A407231762606%3B{GCLID}&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1bOpTAGwuTgCovN2XgM0sDg18&adtype=pla&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=1007345&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgijEi4U_EoAkfDTnHUDpZymg-&gclid=CjwKCAjwrP3VBhBbEiwAnaqpQ3sIxepuyRFIVgqn445Yt38JNYxVo1X4VALkEP6LuFDj6Cj_nLhr3RoCsrwQAvD_BwE Alasdair

6 hours or even 7 hours cheap tariff and maybe 15 kWh. / 60 miles if lucky added. But then you might use standard tariff and be 35 pence rather than the latest 10 pence offerings. New Motability choices of EV,s and Ice vehicles greatly reduced if paying £1,000 or less advanced payments. A few bigger Chinese cars on offer. And 5 UK manufactured cars. MINI Cooper, Nissan Juke or Quasqai, Toyota Corolla or a Peugeot e-Rifter. £4,399 advance payment....

And of course, a granny cable also the restricts by a large margin, the speed of charging, further reducing the usefulness of home charging,furthering the tiers of EV ownership.

Thanks for your reply. The Car is a 1.0 TSi 95CH. I would anticipate doing around 12K km's per year. Mainly gentle driving around the villages, no real traffic issues here. Perhaps 2 or 3 motorway journeys a year. I bought the car last February as a 15 month old vehicle with just 120 km's on it. It was serviced by the dealer before it was delivered to me. I have now done 8.000km's but of course the car is now 2 years old so I decided to put it in to Skoda for an oil and oil filter change service plus they check a few other things as I understand it. When I got to the Skoda dealer they looked at the car "computer" and it was saying next service due in 21000 km's or 340 days, he then said that nothing needed doing now. Anyway, I did have them do the oil change etc and now the car reads that next service is due in 30,000km's or 740 days. That just seems crazy to me, so, do I just follow what the car is telling me? It would then be around 4 years old and never had a full service! I'm tempted to just ignore this and go with my gut feeling? I'd rather it was "over serviced".

I put the Quatrac pro + on my Mini Cooper S electric as soon as i got it. When the snow came they were crap so i put on Maxxis AP3,s this was in 2023. I posted in tyre section. Plenty stuff in All Season threads or winter tyre threads. I have CrossClimate 3,s on my MG ev now, not long now till i see how they are on snow. Very good on the wet. Maxxis AP 3,s very good all seasons IMO. Good value.

Not translated or read that. Plenty info on here on DQ200,s. Change both oils if you want. If you know what you are doing or the mrchanic does. Pre 2013, then 2013-2017/18 then on might have different issues. Service campaigns / recalls in 2014 and 2017 and tpi,s/tsb,s.

Welcome to the forum. Car comes from factory on Variable flexible oil and filter and inspection services, 24 months 30,000 km / 18,000-2,000 miles. So yours was changed to the fixed regime. How many km a year will you do, service as you want or require. We do not know how the car is used or what checks you do yourself. No idea even what engine you have.

Are there over 30 million buildings that the cable from the wall socket can get to a vehicle near enough? All these places with supposed off road access. What if your property in the building is not on the ground or 1st floor? PS. A Google gives it as something like 30.4 million residential homes not buildings. See all those residences in blocks, high rise buildings etc discount running your cable out from the wall socket.

Hey guys, recently been interested in the idea of replacing the multi-spoke stock alloys on my Ambiente SE as I'm not the biggest fan of the multi-spoke look. When I search online, 99% of the time I can only find MK1 VRS' with the spiders. Anyone here got a MK1, VRS or not with aftermarket alloys maybe off of other VAG group cars? Any answers greatly appreciated.

Haven't looked in the Menu as we turn off Lane Assist via the steering wheel as per the second option shown in Derek's first post. It's the tugging of the steering that annoys us rather than the vibration as it pulls quite strongly and stops you steering smoothly. Am I right in assuming that with the vibration turned off you still get the tugging? If so that is interesting as that is the opposite with my Volvo. Again you can't turn off permanently but you can turn off the steering correction permanently which leaves the vibration. But this isn't too intrusive so I often don't bother to turn it off as it means going through a number of levels in the Menu in the centre screen, a right pain, as you can't turn it off via the steering wheel as per the Fabia.

Can't help exactly but my current Elroq, my 2nd one, does have some kind of vibration from the front end that the 1st one did not. It only occurs when the AC in running, so maybe the compressor or the motor that drives it is the cause and somehow it's even worse in yours? Just a thought, to help narrow it down maybe?

Intermittent fault Car will not start. Dash lights up as typical, no dimming on starting. Battery is 12.8v and 1 year old I've checked... Trigger red live wire (wire of death) Cleaned X3 earth points and checked for breaks Used spare key in case of immobiliser or key fault Unfortunately, after 5 attempts I investigated engine bay and touched trigger wire (on blt it has an extension to stop it snapping due to being too short) then tried again starting car. It started no unusual noises. I got 12.4v on trigger wire using multimeter, but this was when car was starting up fine. Starter motor has not made any unusual noises. Could it be on its way out (19year old and 115k.miles?). It either works perfectly or not at all. Done this X2 occasions. At end of work day. Suggestions?

Yes, there wwas Superb Mk2 with paddles, I even had one MY12 V6 3.6 DSG with paddles. Send me VIN of your Superb in PM.

I will definitely check out the rust doctor for some extra guidance I’m going to tackle it shortly so will keep you updated on how I’m getting on just hoping nothing is so badly corroded that I need a welder. Super tip on the baby oil too my mirrors are painted but I’ll check if there are any other areas I can do that on. Would be great to see your progress and I’ll share mine in pictures too as I go 🙏🏻

Thanks a lot! I tried disabling the automatic internal air circulation and you were right — the noise completely disappears when it's disabled, so it definitely seems to be related to one of the AC flaps/actuators. Do you know if there is any workshop manual, diagram or documentation showing the exact location of these flaps/actuators on the Octavia IV? I already mentioned this issue to an authorized Škoda service center, but they told me that they might have to remove the entire dashboard to access the flap/actuator. Before letting them do something that extensive, I'd really like to know which actuator is most likely responsible and whether it can be accessed without removing the whole dashboard.

Ok but that will be from another model? There's no superb MK2 with them is there? I think Octavia might do but that will be the same green logo wheel that I'm trying to replace.

For manua DSG gear shift? Of course it was!

Hello, a new member here so can't pm yet. I know it's a long shot but was just wondering if you had the boot cargo storage nets for your roomster and if you still had them available to buy. Happy to pay postage

I didn't think there was one from that era with paddles?

https://www.reuters.com/legal/litigation/volkswagen-recalls-4-million-cars-handelsblatt-reports-2026-09-25/ Anyone seen any details on Skoda vehicles participation in this safety recall? From: https://www.focus.de/auto/ratgeber/auch-skoda-modelle-offenbar-von-lenkungs-rueckruf-betroffen_7a5080c8-2ee3-4841-bc6c-afddd4de4064.html (translated by Google): "A Skoda spokesperson told FOCUS online: “Internal quality checks have revealed that certain vehicles in some Škoda model series (Octavia, Superb, Kodiaq, Karoq) may have a deviation from the standard in the steering bolts.” The affected production period is week 11/2015 to week 8/2026. In Germany, this affects 370,879 vehicles." (As of now, neither the Skoda Group nor Skoda Spain-specific recall websites match my VIN, an April 2020-manufactured last of the MkIII Facelift Scout).

I've not had any updates on my 24 plate 1.5 tsi. Has there not been any or have I turned something off.