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The wire for the hatch lights is red/blue and just behind the c pillar trim at a connector. A positap or soldered splice would be suitable. Constant power can be taken from anywhere and there is an earth point behind the trim too. Relatively simple diy job

I could be interested As I only want to change a few little things on mine But I’m in the Uk So probably doesn’t make much sense for you!

For reference, the holder is given by skoda-parts as number 3T0 947 509 with subsequent suffixes but I think the shape always the same. 9B9 is for black, WC4 for beige. Don't seem to be different between hatch and kombi. As for the cabling, as mentioned must fish somewhere in the wiring to find the relevant signals. Any electrical auto shop should have the male connector to fit the wires. Someday ....

That is exacltly what I've learned after buying OBD11 with a gazillion credits ... yeah, I should have made my homework better, but they had the bundle in offer and I went at it. Useless in my case, since I could not "adapt" or "long code" anything else that I'd already done with VCDS. For me, it is useless ... it stays somewhere in the garage unused. Perhaps I should put it in the marketplace, if someone has interested in it I'd be happy it gets to be of use to another briskodian ...

The update they mention for the facelift versions is more that the infotainment unit - it's a package with software updates for many other ECUs on the car - called PV4RC. The update is worth doing - the general opinion is that it addresses several SW gremlins, even though I still have some issues trailing after the update. AFAIK the latest update for the infotainment unit is 2768 for Seat/Cupra - the Skoda one should have the last digit +/-1 - otherwise they are "labeled" the same for VAG siblings sharing the same hardware. There was no major version update for the infotainment over the past year, unless the new models coming out of the factory have a newer version that's still unreleased OTA.

Pete, The Drivers Side Door Switches Illuminate with the lights. The driver side window controls don't operate either side at the moment. The passenger side window controls are not working either. Everything on the Drivers door works perfectly (i.e. Electric Mirror Controls, Electric Mirror, Central Locking & Door Switch For Interior Light.) The car has a full history and the previous owner has spent a fortune maintaining the car, which leads me to believe he has already had a garage look at it. This is why I'm trying to gather as much information as I can, as I expect the repair to be a little cumbersome and not straightforward, as he would have already resolved the issue if is was simple.

The ''feeling'' now is better when you change gears? My gear stick sense was very sloppy plus i has a problem in 3rd gear,it was shaking a bit and i always afraid that it will be disengage by itself. 😄

We have Maxxis Victra sport 6 suv on our 1.5tsi and never had any issue with them. Seem to grip well in the wet. Not having to handle about of power but we are very happy with them!

Do you have your headlights on "Auto"? If so, i think you can press the "Low beam" button, which will turn off the high beam without flashing other drivers

I successfully replace this rubber and 2 pieces of o-rings.

So, passenger side module from a 9n Polo with only two electric windows. That will never make the system work correctly in your car. Don't worry about the wiring.

Udate, this issue has been traced to the wiring loom from the steering wheel, the column was in the lowest position and is causing an interruption in power to the dashboard kicking in the immobiliser circuit that momentarily cuts power to the engine causing a stall. With the steering wheel in the uppermost position the car runs perfectly. The job now is to have a look at the wiring loom for either a break in a cable, the loom catching when turning the steering wheel as while replacing the starter switch I may have caused the loom to be moved, or a loose plug. At least the car is now driveable again.

Looking at a bigger car cos of twin grand kids coming next year. Brand new Kodiaq 1.5mHev at only A$49k drive away with 7 year warranty. (25k pounds) Economy at 6l/100 seems to good to be true for a 1700kg car. Anyone got experience on whether power is adequate and real world fuel use around town and on a run? The dealers dangled a PHEV in front of us and we fell for it hook, line and sinker

Any signs of water on the oil filler cap (possibly white foam rather than droplets), or on the dipstick?

Hi @pab567, could you please check if there is a software update available for my MIB3 Bolero unit? Currently running: MEN3_EU_SK370_P0393L (MU 1310). Thanks a lot for your help!

I haven't checked them yet but I will have to then. When checking the cables, what should I look for though?

It is LHD. The part number of the motor module (driver's side) is 6Y2959801. Edit: VW240PDLS

Has anyone found a way to mask the millions of tiny craters in the outer glass of the front windscreen in high mileage cars? They cause a multitude of reflections in bright sunlight to the extent that I've had to almost stop once or twice recently when I couldn't see the road. I have had three Octavias since 2002 and all of them have suffered with this problem, the only way I have found is to replace the screen somehow but with all the electronical gubbins linked to the vRS screen, my insurance company won't guarantee that a replacement will have the same connectivity. i have the same problem with my 2000 BMW 740 which still has the original glass in it.....

Anyone in south wales still active with VCDS? @Lightrofit

Won’t be chasing mega power Stage 1 map be enough

As above, the MQ250 gearbox is absolutely fine - I’ve seen 500nm plus put through it. The only limiting factor is the clutch, which is already happy at 250nm.

Fantastic, thank you!

You can buy magsafe cases or adhesive magnetic rings. Have a look on Amazon for your phone model.

Ah yes.....good point....it's a Manuelle

I have seen it in my OBDEleven tool. Thanks. AG Falco