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Ahh right thanks, I didn’t think it would have just been me, it does sound like they should have been aware. I’ll see what they say.

The thinking is already thought through and being implemented not just very much in the UK but in other countries who do act more quickly. 1) Solar arrays / canopies are implemented at EV charging sites by mandate to fit solar canopies and this is happening in many European countries as all parking sites over a few car spaces are mandated to have canopies and the EV charging actually come in after the solar canopies (and battery bank) have been installed. Small AC or single /dual bay sites can be exempt as impractical on scale basis. What UK and high latitude installs tend to forget is the solar panels should be point 3 ways ie East, South and West to catch best sun or have sun tracking ability like my solar arrays due to the wide direction sunlight can come from in this 50, 60 degree lattitude. 2) Small wind turbines, not the usual windmill design but Archimedes type screw design but it does need some 10 mph winds, lower than conventional wind turbine but still a good onshore, off shore type wind environment or hill etc. If not suited then the EV charging site will have to rely on batteries, solar and whatever Grid it van get. 3) Yes Public charging has to be improved and not just number of sites and location but the true speed one can get. Oft the EV can only get half its rated power due to the battery being a bit cold, or hot but 26 Kw is just dishonest the the charge providers. Google is excellent at reporting at reporting availability and cost in live mode on the display. I want to see a warning of low charge speeds ie 50 KW s or less or maybe 75 KW to me is a minimum rate upon plug in, might drop in to sub 50 KW for the bit above 70% which is acceptable but not in the 10% to 70% range IMO. 4) For the (88%, 50% whatever) idle time the local battery mega pack can be charging from the canopy, mains etc and be ready to deliver the stunning 1.2 /1.5 MWs when the next truck pulls up. Each site would naturally get its configuration. Being able to charge up the local batteries for free or cheap electricity, mine is cheapest during the day usually rather than night but a dynamic charging tariff would be best, though trucks, ofcourse, do work all hours. I see massive opportunities in develop these truck charge sites and BYD and TESLA have tremendous knowledge in these areas, just hope one of the UK charge providers can match these foreign firms, perhaps they will need another quarter of a billion pound investment. My experience of Gridserve in the last few weeks suggests they have a big task in front of them and providing customers with only 26 KWs on a 350 KW rated charge is just **** poor.

The exhaust tips are the most expensive, I bought them from kopacek - around 450 Euro. The diffuser plus the reflective bar were around 200 Euro. They bolt on the original bumper.

@gareth71 Weather at the time was dry and about 17C. Like you I've had problems with assistive devices if it's icy. The heated windscreen clears everything but the camera aperture!

I ended up having to write several strongly worded legal letters, but I did get the money back from the garage

Trump is the best EV salesman..... New Trump Promisero car.... https://youtube.com/shorts/-cH9OQ560Hg?si=V6cSZt_wHT8C68G2

I'd think that ferrite beads on the supply wire could help - Skoda dealership should have known that this would be an issue as lots of people on VAG motoring forums have been reporting it for years.

At the top of the infotainment screen slightly right of centre there should be a number in a circle, this is the amount of notifications of updates you have. Swipe down on the small bar at top centre of screen and press on notifications, any updates will be shown there and you can press to update and will update in the background or when the car is stopped. No need to stop and leave engine running.

Hi all, Fairly new to the website so apologies if this has been raised before. I’ve just had a front and rear dashcam fitted by the local Skoda dealer and the rear one knocks out the radio. If I unplug the rear and leave the front on all is fine. I’ve googled around a bit and it seems to be an interference thing with the DAB signal. Of course I’ll take it back to the dealer to sort it out but was wondering if anyone had seen this before and what the solution was ? Cheers

Hi all, Just got my Kodiaq a few weeks back after my Superb I’d had for 13 years was written off by a bus. 😡 Look forward to find out out more from the site, looks interesting 👍🏻

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks

Hi, splendid I was going to send a private message but being new to the site it won’t let me. So not sure how to make arrangements.

Hello, I want to buy a Skoda Octavia MK4 estate with 2.0TDI 150HP but I can't find any in my country with specific options. I saw one with 2.0TDI 115HP with almost every option, and maybe with a soft i can get to 150hp. From what I read, DQ200 can sustain up to 250NM and the 2.0TDI 115HP have already 300NM stock. I want to know if the 2021 Octavia MK4 with 2.0 TDI 115HP comes with DQ200 or DQ381? Thank you.

@IlyaKud thx for PROPER tagging me. All check your PMs.

Thanks - good to know

If the car was registered at Northampton, KM-KY prefix, it was a Skoda UK staff car. Their HQ is at Milton Keynes.

Honestly, I’m just completely baffled by this whole situation. How is it even possible that on a 2022 modern car, with all the advanced diagnostics, live parameters, detailed Freeze Frame data, and full ECU logs available, nobody—including the main dealer—can pinpoint the actual root cause of this error? We have clear, repeatable patterns (ignition ON, cold boot vs. warm engine, instant re-trigger with live Freeze Frames), yet the troubleshooting relies solely on throwing parts at the car and blindly waiting for factory support. It's frustrating to see that with all this technology and data at our fingertips, an electrical cold-start glitch can still completely stump the entire service network. ☠️

Thanks for the suggestion! However, it can't be related to the oil viscosity itself because the fault code P25AB00 triggers instantly on ignition ON alone (engine OFF) during a cold boot, before the engine even cranks or any oil pressure is built. Appreciate the idea, though!

a bit of an update, have now repaced the camshaft control valves, i dont think this was causing the issue but needed to be done some time. also new plugs, cleaned & reset the throttle body, there was no obvious crud in the body & butterfly operated smoothly. overall removed cleaned & connected all sensor plugs & fittings. Still have the same issue, car starts first time every time but immediately dies. Have been able to look at the engine controol module data in live mode, fuel pressure reads around 105 initially, then drops away to mid 90's when it dies. If I push accelerator pedal down on start up I see the pressure is around 120 then engine dies again. still have some misfires registering. Is there a fuel relay(s) or the like that I can test. Is there an easy way to test the coil packs

I don't know how helpful it is to document the steps needed to remove the trim - I didn't find it easy to follow the manual. As a taster - the first step is to remove the horizontal bar at the side of the luggage compartment that has the hooks on it. The hooks can be snapped off (probably before removing the bar, just by manipulating to the right angle) The bar is held on by two bolts which are hidden behind a strip of plastic on the face of the bar. To remove that strip of plastic - it is clipped into the bar at each end but it also clips in about 1/3 the way down which can be accessed through small rectangular apertures at bottom and at top. There may be a special tool, a bit like a caliper, that presses in each of these holes at the same time but I managed to get it off by levering with screwdrivers in the holes.

Yes I put a lot into my focus, constant coolant issues engine replacement and various other things. So I researched for reliability. The 3rd gen Octavias came up highly. As did the Toyota corolla but octavia was more in budget. Highly recommend and test drive. Just aim for full service history every year / mileage interval. And budget in a timing and aux belt change if it's not been done recently. Then keep up it's servicing.

Is it something to do with oil being too higher viscosity? Piston cooling sounds like oil jets, so maybe try a thinner oil (specifically the cold viscosity) see if that helps the cold starting error problem