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Firstly, it's been a long time since I've been called "Junior" - Old Git seems to be a closer fit these days. The reasons why I still have my 2013 Yeti are various. When Skoda announced they were bringing the Yeti to an end I did consider ordering a new one but it was perhaps a year too early; I had the 5 year warranty and had had no problems with the car at all so I'd have been taking quite a hit on depreciation. I also rather like the quirky Classic front end, one of the attractions when I bought it. It's now 7 years old but still reliable, only has 58,000 miles on the clock, depreciation has levelled out a lot and to change would mean buying a used three(?) year old that might not be as reliable and without the light interior I've grown used to. And finally, I'm tight with my money. If I spent say £10,000 on a replacement that's £10,000 less to run my fingers through as I count my wealth by the light of the slightly extravagant two candles I permit myself.

Plenty of items are sold that are dangerous... You'll probably be fine with 2 cm but just remember you need hubcentric versions and longer bolts. Personally, I wouldn't bother 🙂

Wow, thanks Yeti folk. What a variety of ideas and suggestions, never imagined a Tuk Tuk would feature in replies on this subject. Almost decided on very late used Yeti to tide us over until a plug-in hybrid with raised driving position is on the market. Will keep you posted.

Didn't you know he's a tight arse

I thinking anyone boasting about their environmental friendliness whilst buying a heavy truck with the aerodynamics of a brick is only convincing themselves, regardless of fuel type.

firstly, i had original front assist radar, then i have sent an autoscan to them, they checked and said that; don't need change radar, just you should fit acc stalks. In addition, I must mention that my radar part number: sw: 2Q0907572Q hw: 2Q0907572M H03. they connected with teamviewer to my laptop and said plug diagnostic device. Unfortunately, I have not seen anything, since all the process are on their side. If you need help activate codes, you can talk with them, trust me, fascinated.

I don't know exactly how it is possible. But consider that "cavauto" is the official GM and FCA importer for Italy. The importer registers the cars with their characteristics. There is certainly a way to justify a reduced power compared to the original version. I really don't know which way they get this registration, but I'm sure it has to be something really stupid like a pin that doesn't let you push gas pedal all the way down, so you couldn't get all the power out. 🤦‍♂️

the EA 888 being one of the greatest mainstream engines of all time, petrol is a no-brainer for the UK. will GPFs need as much babysitting as DPFs ? in NZ, diesel is the winner for lead-footed drivers lugging loads (tax is based on travel distance, not consumption). the appeal of the RS extends beyond the engine - pornographic seats and wheels and rear-end warble seal the deal. that said, i wouldn't mind an x-drive 330 D wagon in one of BMW's amazing range of blues

I believe you are correct!! 😀

I love mine

Not 100% sure - I know that a MIB2 SD card will work in a MIB1 Amundsen (I have that at the moment), so it seems possible that a MIB2 Amundsen COULD recognise a MIB1 SD card BUT will the MIB2 maps fit onto a MIB1 SD card? Since OP probably has a MIB1 SD card it's probably worth downloading the MIB2 files from the Skoda update portal using his VIN and seeing if the card he has will work?

Turning it all the way to blue basically just provides maximum cooling and just blasts out the coldest air possible. So it should get the temperature down lower than 18c. Pressing the re-circulate button also boosts cooling capacity since it then re-cools the already cooled air rather than having to constantly cool the warm air from outside the car.

Thermoswitch is about 100mm above bottom hose connection, totally invisible in that pic.

Preface - the following comments assume you've already established your car has the 8" Amundsen system that reads from SD and not the upgraded 9.2" Columbus system that reads from hard drive but can update from SD. If the SD card is for an MIB1 system it won't work, a 2018 car will be MIB2/MIB2.5 and needs different map data, this is likely why your car is unable to recognise it properly. You need an SD card with a part number that starts 5L0, your current card probably starts 5E0 if it's MIB1. I think even if you downloaded MIB2 map data from the Skoda update portal and put it on the MIB1 card, it still won't work as the car won't recognise the SD card as the correct part.

For anyone that stumbles across this thread (like I did)..... I live in Ayrshire and have just had my detachable towbar with dedicated Skoda electrics and reprogramming fitted to my 2017 VRS Estate by 'Lomond Auto Electrics'. £540 all in. With the reprogramming the reverse sensors don't work when trailer is connected and the additional icon comes on the dash to show that you are towing. I have attached some photos. It's perfect. No clunky metal work hanging down when not in use.

Update replaced steering rack all is fine said bolt that was lost had caused tiny tiny damage Like Brand new

Probably worth sourcing a replacement set IMO..........

As safe as a Vauxhall Zafira then.

Whatever you do, don't double the number of candles...

yes, that would be the thermostat housing. Mine had the same on the day I bought it , luckly the dealer assumed it all and paid for repair ... Common problem on the 2.0L TFSI gen3 ....

You can really manage 625 miles with the car fully laden at motorway speeds? Where fully laden is 4 up; boot full to the ceiling; 4 bikes on a bike rack + roof box. That’s unbelievably impressive.

TRUE must have some YORKSHIRE in these genes.

"The response was a string of expletives". I thought that was sufficient to deduce that he wasn't in a Yeti (a car known to be driven by a superior class of person). I think it might have been a BMW but I think I'll leave it there.

Oh come on you jumped in panic buying 98 rolls wasn't it? And you say one sheet is enough so that makes you look even sillier than before!

The mechanic did mention that hey are a 'variable' pump fitted, which only starts to operate once the coolant gets up to a certain temperature, which would fit in with this. I do think I have found a very reasonable and more importantly trustworthy place to have my car done though - just this week had a diagnostics and glow plug replaced for £107!

Skoda have stopped putting the sticker with the various codes in the spare wheel well and handbook. My Octavia is September 2018 and doesn't have the sticker either. I therefore asked my dealer for a printout of the applicable codes which they readily provided on an A4 printout which also has a plain english explanation of what the codes mean. I would ask your dealer for the printout for your car.

So to clarify, if your Kodiaq has Front Assist then you already have the correct radar behind the grill for ACC? You've upgraded the steering column stalk using the part numbers above, but critically you've found someone who has been able to remote access your vehicle and alter the coding to enable ACC? Do I have that right?

One that works for me... I have a small drying towel and a woolly mammoth for drying the car after washing. I use the small one until pretty well soaked, then after finishing drying the exterior with the woolly mammoth I use the small towel to clean all the shuts. Agree with @john999boy re paper towels - and paint doesn't self-heal in the same way human body parts do😄.

The brexit situation caused a devaluation of the pound relative to other currencies. Maybe its that being reflected in pricing of things. Let them do it all except the pollen filter.

Mmm, I'm too cynical to believe that. That's like Boris saying that the great British public have the common sense to social distance and wear masks 🙃. I like your comments about the getting the gauze cleaned though. Who amongst us would know about that if you hadn't mentioned it. The cynicism in me says that manufacturers don't care too much if their products don't last much past the guarantee period, as ultimately that means continued sales of both parts and cars.

It's not as soft as you'd imagine and some brands can be a major source of micro-scratching!

Just saying hello from South Leicestershire... Bought a Superb 4x4 TDI SE-L estate and really like it. Moved from a Volvo S60 as need a bigger car as another baby due in October.... Got a few queries already (mainly on trying to get android auto working on colombus with S9), so looking forward to a little support for a complete Novice 😁

It's typical arse covering, it is easier for them to not fit a tow bar to a non-homolgated vehicle than it is to allow the fitment but then add a load of caveats for its proper use, hence their blanket ban. You can imagine the furore if they allowed a customer to fit a tow bar, but then told them they weren't able to tow with it. Or the potential litigation arising from a different future owner not realising and using it to tow. It isn't the fitting of the tow bar that's the issue, it's using it to tow. Skoda can't control this once it leaves them so they won't allow for the fitting of a factory tow bar. A bike rack isn't a trailer so fitting a tow bar to a non-homolgated vehicle and mounting a bike rack to it is perfectly legal, at least here in the UK.

Yesterday I saved 38 Euros. Engine Start button started to work quite strange let's say, and often I had to press it even twice and more force then usual to make it work. So I tried to disassembly it, cleaned all the contacts and reassembled it. Works like a brand new now!

If you go to 7zap and look up the spark plugs (you may have already done this) quite often the genuine part is sourced from more than one manufacturer and usually Beru, NGK, or Bosch. It may also list the gaps and resistance values. There can be slight differences in gap and resistance but honestly I don't think you will notice on a standard engine. Soemtimes aftermarket equivalent parts are slightly different again to in terms of specs. If you want total compatibility without looking at lots of spark plug charts and technical docs get the genuine but they are often at a premium. I have used Bosch and NGK after market equivalents most often but know that BERU is an alternative as well. Usually a little harder to source but depends on your motor factor.

Yeah I've recently acquired a Skoda again, so I'm back! I'm now permanently in Germany. Have been here since May 2018 now. We still have our house in York that's rented out. But I haven't been back to the UK since September 2018! Hoping for a visit this year now the travel restrictions appear to have been lifted! And yes I remember. I think activated the auto wipers for you too?

I think all cars should come with rubber mats standard and carpet extra. It makes no sense putting carpet on any car floor.

first of all sorry to @Schtum was in your neck of the woods and didn't prewarn you so you can come see the car 😅 One of my friends Simon who is a ford tuner (a car he has tuned is currently the fastest 1/4 mile fiesta st in europe and is closing in on the world record) is bringing his 701BHP Focus RS with him to straightliners this sunday so went up to pay him a visit today and we got talking about my gear ratios and speeds that i posted above. So he had the idea of sticking it on his dyno and see what speeds it gets, while on it he wanted to do some power runs. I trust simon's dyno as i've seen multiple cars on it that have been stupidly quick on the track and the cars he has built over the years have a proven track record. Graphs are in WHP as simon hates Flywheel hp and i calculated it using a 15% drive train lose. I know Darkside underrate thier cars as i've been to dyno days with bobby in his golf and its always made more and a couple of the other cars but here was the results. 2.3 bar of boost too. As you can see all constant too which shows how good their mapping is for the cars to be constant. In other news air con is fixed! just needed a regas.

Not entirely true. In eco the return to a set speed is much slower. S may be quicker than d but i would have to check this. Not at all. A simple pull back on the stick to get a more responsive drive is great. The fact that more recent cars don't retain the mode selection contributes a little.

I have just bough one of the sets. I have no idea why 🥴 I have never stripped one of these bolts nor ever seen one stripped. But I do like tools 😀 I do like bargains 😀 and I do like being prepared for everything or being able to help others out And I wanted to celebrate having (I hope, fingers crossed) some income for the first time in 4 months, backdated 4 months and the security of knowing the support from my government (France) will continue to the end of the year. In years to come someone with gorrilla hands will thank me for my foresight and I in turn will thank you although I wont recall your name as I've already forgotten it. So long as I dont forget that I have the kit or where it is stored! Am going to buy a muti-thread helicoil set now!

By the way, your 190 PS TSI emissions are higher than 190 PS TDI ones.

About 200 km - 120 miles. You have to tune it to stage2 to get the power from you turbo. With a downpipe it can work at 1.8 bar, but only with a map. Otherwise your turbo will be limited by your current map parameters and you cannot use its full potential. Without a remap you'will have the same performance and slightly better sound. Be careful if you choose Milletek's downpipe. I had to modify it, its supports interfered with the crankshaft.

It's switch from Metra Šumperk (OEM supplier), type TH 470.1, with on temperature 85+-3°C, off temperature >77°C. I'm not sure, if they're still available, but as Thefeliciahacker said, you can find switches with similar parameters from other manufacturers.

Love it. The Kia Stonic being an old mans car & the Jazz SE is not something old men would be seen driving.

There is a lot of very useful info here, check out the links and YouTube for videos. My camera has just arrived and will slowly fit it as time allows, Have a look here for some light reading: Good luck.

I always get my batteries from Tayna great service and brill with warranty 096 AGM put your reg number into check at Tanya

Thanks for the advice.... the battery is holding a good charge and giving out just over 13volts.... I have since pulled and checked my fuses on the dash board (drivers side) the 40A marked engine looked like it had a waxy coating on the spade connectors...I’ve cleaned them and fingers crossed it might have been that.... I’ve used the car about 6 times since and all seems ok 🤞

Having had an expensive N0x failure with the Yeti at the start of the year, we decided to look for a petrol hybrid, but were constrained by needing one that was capable of towing our caravan, Taking that and budget into account didn't leave many options and having looked at what was available and having visited a Kia dealers decided on a Niro 2 HEV. Would have liked the PHEV but not having a drive or garage we couldn't have a charging point fitted. We went for the base "2" spec because it comes on 16" wheels and not the silly low profiles. Even at this level there are lots of toys, from rear camera to adaptive cruise control. Seats are comfortable, raised and have plenty of adjustment. Rear seats are split 30/60 and when folded form a flat load bed. Leg room in the back is excellent. Boot is bigger than the Yeti and has very useful storage area beneath. Load cover is a retractable blind. Ride is good, but it does roll a bit more than the Yeti, but it seems to be more than adequate for me. Haven't done a lot of miles, obviously, but today we went for a run from home to Machynlleth and then up the Cardigan Bay coast and did 98 miles and according to the trip meter managed 66 mpg, which for a 1.6 I am very happy with. Things that stand out: The regenerative braking, once I'd worked out how it works and how I can control it, is amazing and possibly better than the Yeti's engine braking. How damned quiet it is! You don't realise how much you use road noise to judge speed until there is very little. I find I have to readjust as it is too easy to exceed the 30 limit, for example. Digital AND analogue speedo in MPH, but I haven't worked out if the digital can be changed to KPH when (if) we go to France. And if you think that the Yeti Handbook was big, don't buy a Kia!! It's over 300 pages! EDIT to answer Stubod On electric I'm told that even mine will do 30 miles and from what I have seen so far I am happy to believe that.

so thought I'd update. really nice premises very clean and professional, free Coffee/Tea, water, TV and even an xbox to keep you busy while waiting , Will is a thoroughly nice dude and spent the time to explain what he was doing and what effect that has on the car and spent a good 2.5 hours on the car getting it to where he was happy utilising multiple dyno runs ( print out shows 7 runs in total) ended up with 228bhp and 431nm. I have since driven around 250 miles an I can honesty say he's done a great job! the curve is super smooth and the pull is very linear the car drives really nice now much better than before , power when requested is almost instant, there's no hesitation, no clutch slip, the traction control light hasn't even come on (granted I've not given it the beans yet) and as an added bonus the mpg seems better too it ran 63.8mpg on the way home! and on the commute this morning normally gets high 40's but today ended at 53mpg. Overall I'm really happy with it and the job Will has done, I highly recommend him and won't hesitate taking my next car to him- I definitely wont be waiting as long next time!

I think that demonstrates that you need a new fan control module. (Or there's some wiring problem somewhere near it).