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As my post has morphed into a Tuk Tuk discussion ( how? why? ) I'll bring it back to my dilemma of what to replace my 2013 Elegance with. Answer:- a low mileage 2017 Yeti auto. Delivery in a couple of weeks.....patience. I just couldn't find a new plug-in hybrid that ticked all my boxes so will have two or three years for manufacturers to produce what I want. Thanks for all your replies, even the Tuk Tuk ones - don't you JUST love Briskoda?

Given you've been scammed (or to put it another way, let down by your chosed supplier) I'll do you a deal. If you join the site as a Freedom member (cost is £10 for the year) send me the unit and I'll sort this for the cost of postage. Freedom is detailed here. Note, Freedom lite is not included in the deal... So, if you think this is something you're interested in, then shoot me a personal message.

Washed and waxed today my 2016 TDI190 model , boosted also to 225hp/470Nm with Quantum.

Interesting twist to this tale just now. I bought a (recent) secondhand slave cylinder of the part number superseding the one I bought at the time of the clutch replacement, with a view to maybe modding it as a workaround solution to the clutch engagement/disengagement point being so low on the pedal. So the one currently connected to hydraulics (dustier one on the right) is a genuine 6QE721261; the one that turned up yesterday for me to have a play with possibly extending is 5Q0721261. Looking at the latter after its arrival yesterday, I had a nagging suspicion that the plunger/actuator seemed a shade longer at max extension than what I saw in the car last weekend, so here's them side by side: There's a good 5 or 6mm difference there, which is ballpark what I was thinking of trying as a modification. So maybe I just need to fit this other slave cylinder. Stand by for the next installment over the weekend...😀

I don't want or even like the DSG, my daughter has it in her Polo GTi and the Father in Law has the equivalent in a Captur. I wanted the 2.0TSi petrol 190PS as 1st choice, then the 190 2.0 TDi as 2nd choice but both only available with DSG I think so ended up with 3rd choice the 150PS 2.0 TDi Manual which unfortunately for Skoda was cheaper so they down sold me.......😒 But it's all immaterial really cos we'll all be in an EV very very soon............

I would any day of the week!!!!! The epiphany for me was taking a risk on a 3 year old Octavia MK1 with 188000 miles for a littme more than nothing but cheap enough that if I had to throw it away after a year I would not be crying into my beer. It turned out to be the best investment that I have ever made, I had 13 trouble free years and put another 137k miles on it and even then would not have needed to scrap it had I invested in VCDS, it was so reliable that I never had to. It never left me stranded and the repairs I did were only ever £10 or £20, I never needed to replace any suspension bushes, I bought rear wishbone bushes with the intention of fitting them believing them to be a known fault but never needed to, I did replace the springs & shocks from a crashed Police car because they were heavier duty and I used the estate as a van and towed a lot. My depreciation costs over any 3 year period would have been £850, if I included servicing, repairs tyres & friction materials still less than £1000. There is also the cashflow side of it, the depreciation is only a cost and a financial hit when the vehicle is sold or in my case scrapped, my actual ougoings were £150 per annum or £12.50 (actually a lot less because I always used part worn tyres) whereas on a lease the £388 would have to be paid every month. Is there not also an initial payment that is lost? Editted, good point re drivers seat, I removed the foam from the squab of a low mileage car at the breakers yard and also at some stage replaced the steering wheel (dead cheap without the airbag).

Got it thanks. A gentle persuasion with my Adidas trainer

That's great to hear. Hopefully vast majority of ZE50's will have CCS installed. As second hand car buyer, this is excellent news. Rapid charging is like a bottle of water, vast majority of the time when you going about your business normally, it's just nice to have as backup. But when you go beyond your normal daily routine, it's invaluable (both car capability and reliable network of multi-charger hubs)

Bap33: Not, Sportline. Crome around fog lights bought from Ebay (made in Germany seller) there a lot of china made cheaper, but quality can be a question mark? JR RS: Thanks.

Thank you all for your comments and wisdom. Ive FINALLY placed my order for a leased 1.5 tsi DSG SE Technology, in Quartz Grey, after must tooing and froing, due to there being no Skoda Estates in my previous spec , which was the 2.0 TDI SEL and agents trying to sell me a different car. On paper this one ticks all the boxes and is within budget. I should know tomorrow when it will be delivered.

I thinking anyone boasting about their environmental friendliness whilst buying a heavy truck with the aerodynamics of a brick is only convincing themselves, regardless of fuel type.

Just had a look and no mention, however I have been using the "apple" ones I bought last time there was a promotion for over a year without any problems on both the Octavia and Superb. As above the Apple one was the "premium" good for -15 so will keep what I have left for the winter months and use this for summer time. Yes they both smell nice 🙂 John

Hi all, my first Skoda, Tsi Manual, leather with heated seats. Arrived here from a Cooper S. More room needed for the family and biking. Rear debadged and interior lights upgraded to LEDs so far. Potential lower and of course remap or tune box on list. She's a beaut, very impressed 😃

Forgive me if it's already detailed somewhere in the last 86(!!) pages, but have you mentioned what software/hardware you have to enable you to do all your programming?

Ill try mobil 1 next service soon see how that goes ill post back of how it goes thanks @nidza

No, that's fine.

Just had a flat bottom alcantara with paddles steering wheel fitted. Much nicer than the original. 🤗

Thank you I will give that a try this weekend.

Have had manuals all my life and not only does it look like DSG is in my future BUT I have to pay extra for it 😂 Its an extra kick in the bulldogs. "Heres something you dont want and its 2000 more expensive" - Thanks! But I wonder is it also a location (Market) issue. Have you tried configurators in other countries to see what they have available? I am in Ireland and we see diff options on our config to some options even in the UK, not to mention when i get exotic and try Czech etc... Also - Handbrakes a thing of the past - thats actually a bigger gripe for me. Hate hate hate auto handbrakes.

Thanks for this link, it decoded everything from my VIN number. 👍 All I have to do now is try and make sense of all the information. 😄

Yeah, just a slightly different shape to the thumb area, I think. as long as the air bag fits, I am happy though as the air bags seem an arm and a leg to replace, even used and I am not sure I'd like a used one, anyway! Thanks, WillSmithy.

Generally, its best to slightly loosen the nuts prior to lifting anyway. If you know they are stuck (Not been removed for ages) Try loosening a screw threads turn each nut, move the car a metre or sos, then jack up, axles stands/chocks, lets to finish. When refitting, smear the touching faces of the wheel and hub, with a little copper grease, making sure not to let it touch the brake pads and the discs braking area.

I believe it's the CAN gateway not sending a signal to the headunit to tell it to enter full standby. Instead it sits there booted ready to go :) The newer gateways send the extra message to make sure the newer headuntis fullyenter standby.

OBDEleven is definatly the way to go in that case. Good luck - if you pay for the Pro veriant, you get Long-Coding made available to you too.

The alloy has corroded to the surface of the brake disc. Nothing else to undo, but may take some brutality to break the corrosion bond. Make sure the car is safely supported before kicking etc.

In terms of whether it is worth it, I have both ODBEleven and VCDS. It really depends on technical competance; if you are good with a PC, then VCDS is definately the way to go. Gives very good granular connectivity. ODBeleven is a good tool, but feel it is slightly clunky interface. Very good for reading diagnostics and for giving your car extra little mods, but not great for anything else.

At floor level: The width, all the way from front to back, is 1 metre The distance front to back is also 1 metre. So a piece of plywood, 1.00 m x 1.00 m would lie on the boot floor. However ... things change as you get higher above the floor. The width increases as you get above the wheel arches, but the front-to-back measurement (I'm guessing that's what you meant by "depth"? Or did you mean vertical depth?) gets rapidly less, because of the rearward-sloping rear seats, and because the tailgate slopes forward.

There are a couple of alternatives offered by Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Luggage-Oxford-waterproof-Carrier/dp/B081F4MP89/ref=pd_sbs_263_3/262-0703509-0304047?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B081F4MP89&pd_rd_r=b734da38-2c8b-4c6c-ab17-1bf1ee061135&pd_rd_w=vpdGU&pd_rd_wg=fOKhD&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=M3BEJ6TJ9YAJ8F0CTRXA&psc=1&refRID=M3BEJ6TJ9YAJ8F0CTRXA https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tow-Carrier-Vault-Cargo-weather-resistant/dp/B01N9MIVLS/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/262-0703509-0304047?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N9MIVLS&pd_rd_r=13fd65e3-9649-466a-beea-963c9af9a7c2&pd_rd_w=zjMpa&pd_rd_wg=ATVU9&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=JXY0XZJH7TGSN2X2BFKC&psc=1&refRID=JXY0XZJH7TGSN2X2BFKC

Read the sticky

Rear reflectors/spoiler/diffuser/exhaust tips might be all coming off for the car to be sold soon, unless someone buys the whole car lol pm me if interested

I've just had mine fixed under warranty. It was not working well from new. Dealer replaced the whole assembly 3v0919719f which includes the buttons on both sides. Mines a MY19 Sportline 280 4x4. I think the switches vary slightly with graphics. Mine is MY19, so I have a VIEW button, not a phone button.

given the chrome trim on the grille and window frames, plus the side fender badge - i'd say it's not a Sportline. much like mine, non-Sportline, but with a Sportline rear diffusor retrofitted. though i could b wrong, and he really has a Sportline n has Chrome'ed it up. i like wat u've done @T-800 looks nice 🙂

Take care not to overcharge and boil the battery's fluid. As Murdockman suggested, a maintenance type charger is most likely the way to go. Old types often have no overload but maintenance ones can be left on semi-permanantly, off the car, of course.I hope you manage to resurrect it.

I had a bit of trouble getting a couple of widows to go fully up after fitment. I then held the switch in the up position and pushed the window up by pushing on the glass at the same time. After a couple of tries the windows went fully up. After that, they were never a problem again.

I am currently blind in the left eye, I have no problem using any of the physical controls on my car, they are all tactile & I can operate them all by feel while keeping my eye (not eyes!) on the road ahead. I would not be able to correctly touch that button even at a standstill & looking at the screen, I know this because I really struggle selecting an address on the satnav on my Chinese head unit with an 8" touch screen. Using the smartphone is a real nightmare, I do all my typing at the computer now. Car controls have used ergonomics and tactile discrimination for decades and it benefits all drivers not just those with visual impairment, I doubt that any of you take your eyes off the road to use 95% of them, as has been said using a mobile phone etc on the move is against the law, its crazy that they should be allowed to get away with this. In the same vein, indicators have become larger and much more visible and distinct over the years thanks to road safety legislation, now they are becoming tiny blips of yellow LED light under a clear lens and practically invisable against the blinding glare of the DRL surrounding them.

Keep charging it for many, many more hours, but it's possible that the neglect has killed your battery.

Once again, for whoever wants them, here is my latest customised version of EU Speedcams ( July, 2020 ). They consist of EU speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in the menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Enjoy! EU Speedcams July, 2020.zip

@PetrolDave, @Wino and @Bigtow This site is a godsend. It lists every pr code for your car. You'll find the front and rear brake disc codes along with a lot of other extra codes not even shown in your handbook or sticker: https://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/skoda

probably going to be a longish post so best to make some tea. First "competitive" event for the car since the 2 litre was put in, Always wanted to do one of these top speed events just to see how fast the car can go, event is a standing mile with speeds also taken at the 1/2 mile too. Looking at the logs from 1/4 mile runs i had a realistic idea of speed of 135mph with a hope of maybe touching 140mph. Managed to rope in my mate simon in his 700bhp Focus RS and Richie who had a monte carlo before but now has a 400bhp 335d. Since it was the first time at one of these events i know from experience just to build things up. First run i did was no meth, no hard launch and short shift to 5th and let it run out, hit a crosswind at 100mph as you can see in the video it weaves a little. Running a Vbox sport i had a live gps speed on my phone, looked at the speed and it seen 150mph. 150mph in my little diesel skoda in around 1 mile from a standing start. Couldn't help but have a giggle to myself at that one in the shut down area. Official timing had it at 147mph. Expectations already exceeded! Next run decided to go a slightly harder launch and rev it out abit more, keeping an eye on the gps speed i decided to hit the meth switch to give it a little push to maybe get to 150mph but the light didn't come on! No meth and it went through the timing beams at 149mph! No meth 149mph! All i could think was what on earth have Darkside built here. Had to work out why the meth didn't kick in, knew it had meth as even if the tank was empty the light will still show if the solenoid would still activate and a green light comes on in the car and if the tank is empty another light comes on to show its low and i had just filled it when we arrived. First thing to check was the fuses, all ok and it was 100% working the night before as i had a run in with a golf r in mexico. The system is activated via boost so when it reachs a certain boost level it kicks in. Checked the line on the manifold all good, traced it back to the switch and theres no boost line there. it had came off so fitted it back on and cabled tied it in so it couldnt come off again. Went to line up again for another run but it was lunch time so had to wait for afterwards Also as you can see parked outside the guys selling some race fuel got chatting to them and they gave me some stuff to try. Plan was to do as i did in the last run, run the car up get to 5th then when in 5th hit the meth switch, run was good and the car was hauling, hit the brake and looked over at the gps, 160mph, 160mph in a daily driven diesel hatch. Couldn't believe it and got abit excited at that. Went through the beams at 153mph Next run thought i would try and full meth run from start to finish and go for 155mph. Forgot i had the window down slightly so put it up when i was in 3rd but then hit the hardcut for a second before then going into 4th, lost some speed/time but at the 1/2 mile it was 3mph up even with that which shows how much the car was trucking along, got to 154mph on gps still not at the timing beams yet and we get limp mode, brown trouser moment for me as i thought i had broke it, thankfully ryan from darkside was on hand by email most of the day and was keeping in touch with how i was getting on. The car isn't mapped for meth its just an add on which you can turn on or off but i think full throttle for that long was abit much for it, as you can see the IAT's were over 60 degrees C. still went through the beams at 149mph and that wasn't me breaking but it coasting down in limp mode. Fault code reset i made the decision that i was going to do one more run as i need to drive this thing back to scotland over 200 miles and would rather drive it back than tow it back. Decided im not going to do a full meth run but run it till 4th then hit the meth so its on for 4th and 5th all the way through. set off and car was just freight training alone, kept it in again after the timing beams for as long as i dared before hitting the brakes look over and seen 162mph! Timing beams were 155mph! brakes really did get abit hot! @DarksideDevelopments have built me an amazing car, it's hard to describe just how all round this car is. I can drive it 250 miles fire down a runway at 160mph then drive it 250 miles home that isn't loud you can still have a full convo on the motorway and dont have to shout or raise your voice and no smoke. Thats something you'd expect from a top spec audi/bmw/merc diesel not a little diesel skoda ecohatch. And it averaged 51mpg. Through out the day there was loads of people commenting on how quick it was and that they didn't expect it to be putting in those kinds of speeds. Couple of guys also said it was the car of the day for them as with the supercars you'd expect them to be quick but not a little diesel hatchback and they were even more surprised to see it was stripped out or trailered down and i was going to drive it home. Safe to say i love this car, still my first car and its going no where ever.

Hello Sasha, did you take pictures of BCM retrofit? what part did you use? I´m thinking of switching mine to, can i buy the same partnumber but for oder brand for example audi or volkswagen? 5Q0937084CQ

You guys should taste the luxury of the 16" wheels that I mount in winter. 😊

I've got 19" wheels on a sportline and find the ride to be perfectly acceptable and possibly my suspension might be firmer than an SE L. I imagine yours will be like a magic carpet....... 😉

And boot lights I linked earlier from AliExpress arrived and have been fitted. 30 second job. Considerably brighter than OEM.

Who would have thought an empty lower power 2wd Karoq could get better fuel economy than a 300kg heavier, larger more powerful 4wd Kodiaq? Whilst there’s no denying that those impressive figures for a petrol engine, it’s pretty much irrelevant on a Kodiaq forum in a discussion about the 190bhp petrol and Diesel engines fitted to 4wd cars.

Just a thought

By the way, your 190 PS TSI emissions are higher than 190 PS TDI ones.

Err, £10 every 6000 miles or so. I think I can live with that. Pick the diesel or the petrol to suit your personal needs, and have the self confidence to be happy in your own choice rather than feeling the need to rubbish other people’s choices.

Just googled it... Hence the after mention of get the mechanic to order as they will be able to use their system to find the correct one.

@JGrindel where did you get that part number from? I'd expect it to be 6Q0 423 445 instead; item 18A here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/423-423040/#18A

From reading around on here its a under car job to replace but it seems fairly simple. I would estimate 30-1 hours labour minimum but I am no mechanic. - Sensor at around £120 and labour @ £100 ish, I would expect a bill of around £200-250! BUT get the battery checked before you sink money into the sensor as it could well be the battery on its way out. My car had a tendency to throw a brake fault error when the battery started dying.