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The Duster has been mentioned before on this forum as a low cost alternative for the Yeti and in terms of build quality and specs I guess as in most things "you get what you pay for". But then many of us on this forum are here because we decided the Yeti offered better value for money than the Tiguan. From reviews the basic Duster seems to be very basic by any standards but by mid range things seem to be improved to an acceptable level with more toys added at the top of the range and still at a price well below what an entry level Yeti would have been now. If I went to look at a Duster in the flesh I might revise my opinion but on paper a mid to top end Duster would at least merit consideration if I was looking to change. As regards the 3* safety rating this would warrant some thought but my (limited) understanding is that the rating reflects the overall safety of the car, both the occupants and anyone/thing it might come into contact with. Am I being cynical in thinking most for buyers even if safety is a consideration it's all about the safety of me and mine rather than them out there? Are the Euro safety ratings a rolling standard - for example how would the Yeti get the same rating if assessed now as it did more than 10 years ago and if not does this mean that practically a 3* Duster is no worse than a 10 year old Yeti if you were unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident? Even if the ratings are fixed over time would a 3* rating be an acceptable risk for someone doing 8,000 miles a year, mainly on local roads but not someone doing 40,000 miles a year principally on motorways and other high speed roads? Quite a number of Yeti owners on this forum have other vehicles that probably fall well short of a 5* safety rating, classic cars, motorcycles etc., but still use and enjoy them despite this. And finally, is this the same forum that had so much enthusiasm for Tuk-Tuks? Does a Tuk-Tuk get even a 1 star rating? I shall now stop, stand back and wait for the deluge of replies telling me how I'm wrong for so many reasons. (What would we have done without Briskoda to keep us entertained through lockdown).😊 So going back to the title of the thread, "Replacing Yeti", the answer seems to be "Another Yeti". QED.

Let me warn you, it’s very hard to do and quite surprising how quickly the vehicle can stop with a left foot only ever used to going to the floor.....!

All these 'assists' just can't cope with the complexity and variety of driving scenarios in the real world, Lane assist probably copes fairly well with preventing drifting from your lane in a textbook motorway driving situation (and I wouldn't deny that as a valuable contribution to safety) - but that seems to be about all it is good for. Most years I do no motorway driving and probably about 1% of my driving on dual carriageways. Touch screen controls are sold as a bonus to the customer but in reality are just a cost saving. Good ergonomics is crucial to safety and as far as possible that means you should be able to feel your way around the controls with good tactile (and possibly audio) feedback to confirm your actions, I am far from familiar with all the individual complexities of different manufacturers assist and auto systems but the impression I get is that they are far from being standardised. The risks when someone jumps from one system to another without fully appreciating the differences have to be fairly obvious. Back in the day moving to an unfamiliar car only required checking. - How do I work the lights and indicators, where is the choke, adjust the seat and mirrors- about ready to go.

My new to me, Jungle Green L&K 280. Had it 4 days..

Hopefully a useful guide to replacing the window regulator on the MK1 Fabia. MK1 Fabia window regulator.pdf

Hi All, Looking for some help with a few upgrades for my Superb. To make it, well, even more superb Im currently going down a full stage 2 path and need advice on the following bits of kit: Intercooler Exhaust Intake Kit Downpipe Turb Currently I am getting a custom exhaust fabricated by Hayward and Scott in the UK end of September I have found the following Intercooler kit that I believe would fit and has the Downpipe included: VAG 2.0TSI FWD Competition Package: https://www.wagner-tuning.uk/700001059.html I am really struggling with the Intake Kit and Turbo... I have no idea where to find one that fits the Superb and was wondering if you guys had any ideas or have already done this. If you have any secondary suggestions for the Exhaust, Intercooler and Downpipe etc, please do let me know. Id love to hear them. Im not looking for a crap load more sound, mainly a little bit more of a growl once i put the foot down as its a little....meh? I mean it sounds nice but just want a bit of a deeper tone Of course power is the main goal here

Not bad considering it was Friday afternoon traffic - M1 / M25 for most of it, aircon was on full and it was knocking on 32 degrees C outside the car for most of the trip.

vRS finally let me down tonight after 13 years of ownership.😩 Everything lit up as usual, but turned the key and nowt. Nearly dark, no torch, so thought, sod it, ring my breakdown provider GEM. 35 mins of pondering if it could be either the starter motor or the factory fir immobiiser perhaps before the man turned up. After a bit of ferkling, he decided to hit the starter motor with a hammer, full JC style.....and it fired up immediately.😎 Going to cost me this week, but hey ho, mustn't grumble after all these years of superb service from the black terrier. Still love it.

Not mine yet - just considering at the moment but found that option in quite a few Skoda models - will make dashcam installation much easier in the future if specified! I was waiting for the new Octavia to see what that was like but I'm not keen on no buttons to control the climate control and the much smaller small 45l fuel tank. The Superb is back on my radar but I originally wanted to down size!

I dunno quite how it works but they do have a cut out system, for safety. It can kick in and make window winding difficult just from having something like tree sap on the glass. They become very sticky and the extra work needed to use the windows can cause them to stop or run funny. As for the door loom, they are very prone to snap so check them again and be sure they are not fractured and just working irregularly. Both sides, too. opefully, someone with better knowledge of the window motor system, regulator and convenience module thingy, will come along soon.

Pics as promised just picked it up. Just needs a good clean and polish.

I have used them to remap my Mondeo 2.2 TDCI. They offer a mobile remap, and were happy to come up to me and performed the remap on my drive at home. The remap was, for the 12 months I had it, excellent. A fair bit more power and slightly better economy for day to day driving. The most noticeable thing about the extra power is the ability to accelerate when at motorway speeds. Yes there's more power for overtaking on A-roads etc., but the big "Wow!" for me was how well the car pulled in top gear on the motorway. Very impressive! It's still the best thing about the remap IMO. There's some slight smoke under full acceleration, but no great black plumes of smoke belching from the rear. There were no issues with MOT smoke test. The only issue I had, was when I first had the remap, I noticed that when I took my foot off the throttle after I aborted an overtaking manoeuvre, where I previously had some pretty rapid engine-braking, I found that the engine seemed to still be getting fuelled and I had to brake to slow my car a bit, where previously just lifting off was enough to give me engine braking to do the job. It came as a bit of a surprise at the time, but I suppose I got used to it pretty quickly, as that was the only incident I can recall, and I don't notice it now. I would absolutely recommend them based on my experience, and intend to get my 2.0TSI remapped by them at some point. I think I've just about convinced the wife to get her 1.4TDCI remapped by them. I couldn't get an answer when I phoned them recently, but that may be a COVID-19/holiday thing.

due to the poxy journey i had to do the other day, i couldnt pull in to get 160,936.... aka 100000miles.... sickened.

First minor one in the Mk3, trip reset to try for 44444 - 444.4

A 'Full Main Dealer Service History ' would be servicing to the Manufacturers Schedule or 'Guidelines', and a Service of the A/C does not appear in the Oil & Inspection Servicing, or the Extended Scope at 3 years in the 'Skoda Fixed Price Servicing and Maintenance, or in the 'Service Plans' if you buy a 2 or 3 year one. Brake Fluid changes are an 'extra' cost option as well. Skoda / VW / Audi / SEAT Approved used cars might have a 'Full Main Dealer Service History', That will show what little 'Full Main Dealer Servicing' actually means gets done in 3 years. They / Skoda Dealers and Skoda should be a bit better at reminding owners / keepers about Haldex Service at 3 years, DSG at 40,000 miles, and less about A/C services at 2 years.

Blimey...sounds like Elliot Ness would do well up there. Perhaps we should let you have your Independence after all!

I am concerned that not only are Red cars none existant in this thread, but I can't see any Scouts Either ! Helpfull I can fix both issues with a few Pics of Mine. Karoq Scouts are a dying bread now that Skoda have stopped producing them.... 😕

If you do not want a manual and need or want 2 pedal driving from the VW Group / Skoda then it will soon have to be a 1.0 or 1.5 tsi with mild hybrid to get a DSG. Or Plug in and DSG to get a 1.4TSI.

I think you're right Gaz, seems like a great choice so far (getting on for a month of having it). I had a 2ltr 2005 TDCi Focus Ghia, in its day it was a great car, but was starting to show its age and the performance wasn't what it once was

Thanks Bangor Red and Petrol Dave, great to have that piece of mind that its all normal. The car has been great so far, so all good!

Those days have not gone no mater what the DVSA / DfT or Transport Ministers might say.

in the good old days it did'nt matter how many faults on your car, you could get a blank mot at the barras market £30 was the going rate but sometimes when they where desperate could be had for £20 you could even get an honours degree in what ever subject yea fancied 😎

I found the Scandinavian lights option for my 2015 Fabia and liked the idea of the rear lamps being on too. However, activatiing this option leaves teh DRLs on at all times, including when the sidelamps (parking lamps) or headlamps are turned on. As I understand it, legislation dictates that the DRLs should either extinguish or dim when the headlamps are on. The choice can be that they turn off, to be replaced by the sidelamps, or dim to that lower brightness level. Leaving the DRLs on with the headlamps is therefore an offence, and could bring a risk of fines or just inconvenience if spotted by a clued-up and pedantic police officer. (You'd have to assess that risk level yourself.) As a driving instructor, i cannot take that risk at all. The legislation around DRLs was, in my view, created by bureaucrats in Brussels, tasked with harmonising rules across the EU, without understanding them. DRLs were created in Scandinavia to ensure vehicles were lit at night, to compensate for inebriated drivers meeting inebrated pedestrians, and have been successful in reducing injury and death in those circumstances. The argument for the rest of Europe is less valuable, but they do show a potentially moving vehicle. In Scandinavia, they illuminated brighter front lights and the standard rear lamps. When the EU rules appeared they seem to have missed the rear lamps. However, running with rear lamps as well is not an offence.

Big tyre management issues this week. It's hotter and the tyres are softer. The teams have 8 sets of softs that they don't want to use, and don't last a whole qually lap, but only 3 sets of medium, which seems to be the best qually tyre, and 3 sets of hard. In practice they're mostly using softs because they need to keep the better tyres for Q2 and the race.

Well all things need proper medical advice... I guess if you're carrying a few 'paid for' pounds already then, take that into consideration. We don't want to overwhelm joints and stuff. Everything in moderation as I always forget when cake is on the table... I think the idea of rucking is to add some extra load/tension to your routine, without pushing you to run. I can get my heart up to 120/140 without running, I don't want much more. I'm also seeing a cardiologist who's trying to figure something out for me... so I'm cautious to go beyond what I know, although did the other week hit 180 which when I got home was quite relieved to see I was still here. I stopped at 16kg, 8 bottles. Beyond that it felt like it hurt, and I ran out of space in my rucsac. I began with 2x2L bottles of water for 4kg, then 2 loops I know I can walk.. then add another bottle, 2 more loops etc so over a week up to 5 bottles and so on... I like water, because: a: I can stop and drink it. b: I could pour it all away if I began to suffer too much/pain flared up.

Ah, an opportunity missed then 😛 Glad you're getting sorted at no cost still!

Very Good. Had mine in the 70s mpg and range in the 700 miles plus. Car loves being held to 50 mph in the traffic controls and using coasting down hills helps the figures. Must admit usually happy to settle for 60 mpg and cruising a bit higher ie in the 60s and taking some A roads where 50-55 mph is the norm. Mines DSG so coasts down hills automatically in DSG. Also picking the occasional and slip streaming of transit van or the like. Only the 16 inch 205 tyres set iin the mid 30s PSI rather than the mpg damaging 17s or 18 inch wheels. Well done, who needs diesels with all their pollution baggage with mpg like this.

Agreed. The set I quoted was only to give an example really I thought £12:99 from a retailer that you could get immediately was a possibility to consider rather than pay £30 from a tyre depot. Having used the kit you could sell it on and recover a few pounds too should you decide you are unlikely to need it again.

Yes. I have a MY19 Sportline hatch with the original 19" vega alloys and 235/40R19 tyres. I found a same sized Skoda alloy rim (not a vega) and tyre from a wrecker which I bought for A$150 to replace the space saver. I had this balanced and it fits tightly in the wheel well although it sat about 25mm higher, I used a long blade to trim the bottom and sides of the polystyrene jack/tool holder to fit within the rim and got some 10mm carpet underlay offcuts free from a local carpet shop. Trimmed and fitted 3 layers of the underlay to level up the boot floor and I'm happy with it. You could trim the plastic lip to ease the fitting but I didn't and It doesn't bother me that the spare looks different to the vega, I hope not to use it often.

Liftback I had the chance to compare them. The boot is a bit bigger in the mk4. The biggest difference is the quality of the materials.

Here in Lincolnshire we have a mot chain called we only mot, so they have nothing gain if your car fails. Yes when I was in the motor trade many years ago it was always good practice to change springs and shock absorbers in pairs but that seems to have gone out the window now.

I took it to a testing station that do not do repairs

Vitara is an option and has many attributes and attractions, however, it is a bit ‘tinny’ - door shuts with a clank not a thud and the interior is well laden with hard plastics, but then so are the T-Cross T-Roc and too many other small competitors. Kamiq probably has best quality interior (bar the Audi Q2) but seating height is not much higher than any hatchback. To be honest we Yeti owners are probably looking for something that doesn’t exist, that’s why we will keep our Yeti’s until they are middle aged then settle on the least worst option! The reasoning I don’t understand is why VW have down graded the cabins of their new crossovers and eliminated many goodies even from the options - you can’t get a T-Cross with electric or leather seats, heated windscreen or soft touch dash or door cappings - they are not even on the options list. Why? I suspect VAG are trying to recoup some of the horrendous losses from the “cheating” fiasco by down speccing their cars while still charging premium rates, but then why not offer the extras at a premium and recoup the money that way. As I’ve said before Skoda cars are now more premium finished than VW at a lower price. Perhaps there is some wisdom in VAG’s policies but it escapes me.

Many thanks Shy, Just the job!

Should be from first registered. For example my Superb was registered at the end of March 2019 so the warranty runs to the end of March 2022 even though I bought it at 9 months old. Hope that helps.

All kicking off in the paddock. 1. McLarens Zak Brown barely short of accusing Mercedes of colluding with RP. (Hope his new engine supply contract with Merc is watertight). Intends to appeal FIA verdict. 2. Ferrari will appeal the FIA Racing Point verdict re the parts now being approved for use this season. People in glass houses FFS. Maybe some other team will formally protest the FIA Ferrari engine decision scandal too. 3. RP pointing out that Haas and Toro Rosso (alphatauri) also use other teams Brake ducts, and considering their own counter-appeal against verdict. 4. Renault will appeal the verdict too.

Welcome. There are 2 other threads at least in this section regarding cracked Panoramic Roofs. A Google will find you them. EDIT. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/416477-cracked-panoramic-roof-update http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/474300-panoramic-roof-crack

Been using them for years and swear by them now, its the recognised repair by most French garages and tyre fitting places except they will never offer it preferring to lie and insist that you buy a pair of new tyres, I have even walked (well rolled) a wheel & tyre in for repair & said that it was the spare for then to refuse to repair it 🙁 Small local garagiste repaired a puncture for me using a tyre plug (worm as you call them good description), he had the screw out, the hole reamed & the plug in place before barely any air had escaped from the tyre, I was very impressed, he used the reamer bit in a battery drill. Since then I carry a plug kit, a mushroom plug kit and insertion tool (they look like butt plugs!!!) and also a can of foam, footpump etc and now I also have a space saver spare for long journeys.

The water pump on the 1.4 tsi is at the opposite end of the engine driven by its own separate drive belt. Therefore there is no reason for it to be incoperated in a cam belt change. The majority of water pumps on vag group cars are driven by the cam belt, and I suspect the service receptionist was initially ignorantly happy to carry out MrSkodas request to replace the pump with the cam belt. No doubt once the car was in the workshop the technician queried it as the water pump is nothing to do with the cam belt and is an expensive job in its own right. There have been some water pump failures of 1.4 tsi engines documented on here but not many, so it’s hardly an inherent fault. MrSkoda’s car is 6 years old and I don’t think we can diagnose it over the internet, although the water pump is a distinct possibility.

Normally only one, the one that says a firmware update has been done.

All, I've been watching the wheel and tyre forums for a while. Not to mention other forums where wheel or tyre talk appears. Wheel talk is 1/9th of tyres. In a bid to simply forum navigation and management, I'm going to roll wheels and tyres into one... my creative spirit died a few hours back, so it will be called wheels & tyres. You can't really use one without the other anyway, unless your in a cross fit studio, or scrap heap challenge. As always, any thoughts, just say.

Hi, Mine doesn't have traffic assist and is DSG and it does this (I do have dynamic cruise control though - or whatever they call it) but today I did not have it turned on at all. Took a drive today and it did it several times in a slow moving traffic queue. Quite good actually - some thought has gone into that little feature 🙂 Never noticed before as I usually disable Stop/Start and also, if it is active (and I fancy saving some emmissions at the expense engine bearing life and wearing out the starter motor / battery before it needs to be worn out), I twiddle the steering wheel maybe 1/2 second before the radar realises the car in front is moving so it never needed to kick in previously.

Oil is still above the hatched area, is still a golden colour, albeit, not as clean as it was obviously. I filled the coolant at the same time too, that is also still at the max level. All good?

I'm not sure a Golf R Estate vs a Superb 272/280 Estate is a valid vehicle comparison. A Golf R vs a Leon 300 Cupra or an Audi S4 maybe but not a Superb. For me the smaller Golf R with it's lower stance & shouty quad exhausts attracts too much attention (normally the unwanted type from other boy racers &, the boys in blue). The Superb 272/280 estate (L&K in my case) is the epitome of a "sleeper" / Q car & except for a pair of fairly well hidden muted exhaust tips, has no outward signs of what lurks beneath. Add a stage 1 re-map for 360 bhp & it really flies. Admittedly unless the suspension is modified it is never going to go around corners like a Porsche but the DCC in Sport mode (std on the L&K) firms it up quite a bit. I run mine in Sport mode most of the time unless "her in doors" is in the car when Normal or Comfort mode has to be adopted to protect her delicate rear end. My now low annual mileage means that fuel costs are no longer a major issue so 36mpg on a run or 25mpg around town are acceptable. For me it's the straight line acceleration that is most useful for quick safe overtaking when needed, effortless cruising, huge boot / rear passenger space & the sure footed 4 x 4 system when the weather gets a bit inclement. The perfect all rounder IMO.

I was in the queue at the rubbish tip today and discovered the the engine would start if I just moved the steering wheel! Handy to start up without having to take your foot off the brake.

Emerald green here.

When I was looking for a cycle carrier for my BMW 2-Series Gran Tourer, I was advised to avoid those carriers which strap onto the rear tailgate. Most tailgates now apparently have plastic parts (eg. the spoiler at the top) which are made of plastic and which can break under the pressure from the very tight straps of the carrier with a bike strapped onto it. I was told that even if there are no plastic parts in the tailgate, when you pull the straps of a tailgate-mounted cycle carrier taught, you can end up bending the steel edges of the tailgate where the strap clips are attached.

As long as you're happy with it , that is all that matters If we sat side by side stuck in traffic on a dual carriageway, there would be no difference at all Welcome to the Octavia club