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It probably has one duff cell. The others are enough to start and run the car when fully charged, but the stop /start sysyem will not operate if the volts are too low.

Comfort entry and key memory on the seats coded! When the door is opened the seat slide back and the backrest up a bit to help you out and then comes back with the door closed. Here it is doing it’s thing and moving the seat from my position to my wife’s position (who is 5’2” with short legs and I’m 5’7” with long legs hence the massive difference and the reason I wanted to have these seats) and back to mine again. Also does the mirrors as I have those. Nice one 🙂

Looks like it’s down to the controller as I suspected, wonder if anyone with massage seats could post a scan so I can see the part number. If it’s cheap I’ll do it lol.

I had to replace the battery on my (nearly) 5 year old 150 and the tyre and battery place I used locally plugged a laptop into the port and in-putted a code that was on the battery when the "system" asked them for it. He said it was now quite common, and that my battery had lasted a lot longer than many others. And I paid a lot less than the OP has been quoted!

https://youtu.be/IJAScg6JrYI

Thanks for the advice everyone! I went ahead and purchased it! Picking up next Saturday. Skoda Octavia vrs 245 2017 dsg meteor grey. It looked immaculate and really clean inside. All the extras like power adjustable seats, heated seats, all the black bits or the exterior are what did it for me. Now just need to sell on my Golf as they offered me £500 less than every other dealer. But wasn't a deal breaker as my Golf is only worth about £1,500, so will whack it on the local Facebook selling groups and autotrader. I'll fire up some pictures on the new members section once I pick it up. #teamprimer

Where do i start. I wanted a new car and i though why not a SUV, so i checked the likes of Audi and BMW. The BMW was OK but because of problems i hear about them from second hand, i leaned away from then. Audi thought small but expensive. So now I go to websites looking for a SUV. I see videos of Peugeot's, Citroen's, Ford. Mitsubishi, Mazda but none clicked the way when i saw and read the review of the Karoq. I never thought of buying a Skoda until the reviews. I watched, I read and the more i saw the SUV, the more i leaned towards it. Now I'm coming close to really buying it. I go to showrooms, look at it and want to book a test drive but work is a bit difficult. And when i was about to book a test drive Coronavirus arrived. After 3 months i set a date for the test drive and when i got to test drive it, i loved it, even though for an hour, i thought yes this is the car I want. After a week or so I ordered it and waited. It came with a delay but ever since, i can not stop driving the blasted car. Short trips, holiday trips, day trips anywhere just to drive it. For me. it's a comfortable, fun driving SUV and very happy i bought it. I hope many of you who have bought it feel the same.

After just 2 days and just over 100 miles driven already prefer the standard ride height with 18" alloys and in my case Continental 235/45R18 tyres. Much more comfortable and less thumping than the 235/40R19 Bridgestone tyres on 19" Vega alloys with the non DCC Sportline 15mm lower and stiffer dampers/spring set up. This on a 2.0 TDi 150PS DSG SEL hatch for comparison.

@Sunny_Kay please report them using the DVSA link. They are obliged under the MOT regulations to keep printed results for a minimum of 3 months and make copies avaible to the customer. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/complain-about-an-mot They need to be held to account. Depending on the DVSA response you will be entitled to a refund.

I picked up my 2017 VRS 245 DSG a week ago and as per the above, I checked to make sure service history was all in order as you would with just about any car. Touch wood it's been fantastic so far. Hope you enjoy yours.

245 is 2WD so no rear haldex

It's acceptable to replace with a like for like without coding as long as the new battery is at maximum charge level when it's fitted.

For modern AGM batteries on cars with intelligent chargers and monitoring the only chargers I trust with the battery connected are CTEK

Friend of mine captured this sunset in Clevedon recently Bridlington this morning.......

It's not keeping the power going that is the issue. The car has to be paired with the battery to get best performance from it. No doubt it will work after a fashion by just replacing, but the car has to know the exact specifics of the fitted battery to use and charge it correctly. Similarly, an old style charger could possibly be used briefly to put enough in to start the car but left connected will eventually destroy the battery. I wouldn't risk it though. A smart charger has a specific mode for the Yeti type battery. Mine cost £55 and had been used several times this year during the shutdown.

Never mind the 3 speed gearbox,what about the vacuum wipers.?

Another mod completed, sort of 😂 Electric 230 interior is officially installed. Got some things to sort like the rear backrest tabs are showing up but the seats are locked and I’ve decided to keep the red stitching and match the wheel, gear knob and handbrake stitching later. Otherwise I am just going to hit the rear seats with a hairdryer to get the last few storage marks out but otherwise I’m super happy. I’d show you the comfort access but that’s not going to work until Tuesday as the FL BCM has stropped one time too many and is now dead so I’ve put the old one back in, will have the CP done then and after that the comfort access will work but everything else works including the seat memory and the mirror memory as I have memory mirrors too. Very very happy 😃

Hi Shugmo Its an original part 5E0 713 146 D I bought it with some other parts from skoda-parts.com for around €18 with €8 delivery. It’s only a two minute job, put the lever in drive for more space pull the lock button back and with a thin piece of plastic/ screwdriver inserted in the front flick it out (the go round into the back seats and retrieve it :-) )

Nearly 😄. It was Mercedes’ 4.0V8 twin turbo diesel unit. Ran 306bhp and 700Nm standard.

Sounds like an HGV?

Aye. Use your Mk 1 eyeballs and keep your eyes on the road.

Hi, Replying to the posts regarding old cars and in particular the Ford 100E and 105E. Both cars were rubbish but at least better than public transport. I think the firing order on the 100E was 1243? The vacuum wipers were indeed dire as was the 3 speed box. In those days cars generally had positive earth which I believe was a great aid to rusting. The 105E now an OHV was a bit more powerful with a 4 speed box but what a rust bucket; the "A" frame used to rust so much the wide heavy door would sag; I've already mention the cart springs through the boot floor; in fairness though the Ford's weren't alone in their habit of rusting; in later years the rust trophy must have gone to the Alfa Sud. Remember the electric petrol pumps on the morris minor's? If these didn't tick then lift the bonnet and tap the pump with a spanner; distributor caps were also another weak point getting damp. on the Mini the distributor was in the firing line for adverse weather. Boy this takes me back; my first car was an Hillman Minx convertible bought for £5; having pushed it home and parked it the boys in blue descended; the result push it back because of to insurance; road tax or MOT. What fun. In 1970 I bought a scrap BSA 650cc S10 Golden Flash for £6 from a local rag and bone man; I fully restored it adding 10.5/1 pistons and hot cam; the result was I couldn't then kick it off; I wasn't heavy enough so had to run it off; I got £150 allowed on it against a one year old BMW 750cc R75/5 I was king of the road on my beemers in those days. Two of the best cars we ever owned were a pair of Citroen 2CV's; the body on these can be taken apart by just sliding the doors and boot lid off. A mention was made of the Triumph Herald; actually not a bad car and when the rear end was jacked up the bottom of the tyres looked like they were going to kiss. Back to the plot though I've rambled on enough; here's how to get your battery restored; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l665eovBlEk Kind regards, Colin.

Ah, the reference to the 100E and vacuum wipers brought back fond memories. A mate had one and in pouring rain we had to negotiate in an upwards direction a long and steep hill. The higher we got the slower the car got and with it the wiper speed (I think there were two - barely moving and not moving at all) and towards the top there was a real risk we would be reduced to a man walking in front with a red flag - a concern for me as the passenger as I'd be that man!! My own car was an elderly 105E in its 997cc guise but with electric wipers although the benefits of these were somewhat offset bay a whole in the passenger side wheel arch which a previous owner had professionally patched with a copy of the Sum and a tea towel; I discovered this at 2am in a near monsoon. The next car was another 105E in rather better shape before taking the plunge with a Ford Escort Mark 1 estate, less exciting than the Ford Anglia Alladette which I'd been tempted by from a "friend of a friend" which I subsequently found out was "rotten as a pair" and with an insurance rating for an 18 year old student which would mean I'd still be paying the instalments now. Totally off topic but what else to do on a Sunday?

My car is super comfortable and grips the road brilliantly. My point is regarding change of direction and uneven, undulating roads which bottom the car out and turn it into a pogo stick

5w30 meeting vw507.00

How convenient!

Obviously I agree with Mr Harris and his views on the current M3/4 Although He would have preferred the manual gearbox it seems. I'm not a fan of BMW manuals over the last few years, there's nothing really wrong with them, but they don't have that special feeling, they're just a bit numb. It was also nice to see he realised it wasn't just men who had M3/4s

Probably, wheels, seats & head/ tail / etc lights are bespoke but the oily bits are shared around VAG.

Any chance you could allocate the function to position 3 in the mean time to try it out?

Next thread title will be “When you change your 272 for this blue one, and half the forum loses its sh#t as to why”. I hope to God it’s not nearly 40 pages long though!!

My car went in for it's service yesterday and, as said previously, it's had the OEM bush put back in. They replaced both the top and the bottom bush, but only charged the labour for the bottom. It was amazing to get back into the car after I picked it up and the tranquillity within the cabin is uncanny. I've always been aware the poly bush amplified the engine noise, but it is amazing how much the OEM rubber bushes dampened the interior NHV. On the return the car was going into stop start and I was finding myself double checking the rev counter the engine had restarted. I'm glad I experienced the poly bush as I would say it did make 'going for a blast' that bit more enjoyable. HOWEVER........ I'm glad I've refitted the OEM bush because with the temperature dropping, I've already had a few instances at the lights when the car hasn't cut out, leaving me sat getting shook to bits. If I still used a van and the car wasn't my daily, I may having considered keeping the poly bush in. So that's my experience using a hybrid lower dogbone mount bush on a VRS tdi. YMMV using one yourself or using a basic insert.

@SashaGrace has removed more trim than anyone else i know

Tayna also sell on eBay, same price but with free shipping. And a bit of Quidco too.

And excellent for long hauls. Most in a day for me has been 600 miles, got out without any of the usual aches & pains. And loving the mpg. Got 59mpg on outbound trip (570 miles), 55mpg on way back but heavily laden. Both out & back sitting at 60mph, mostly on cruise control. Happy with that.

...and I assumed the local ECP was the place to go. Certainly for SWMBO's bulbs, both our blades and my AdBlue.....but clearly not batteries! Thanks for the heads-up. (Still cannot understand the huge variation)

Not in that form perhaps but carbon build up is an issue in direct injection engines, petrol as well as diesel. Blasting the inlet ports with crushed walnut shells is the current favourite method unless you go to a full disassembly. Anyone remember Formula Shell...? I was running a FIAT Uno 70S at the time and decided to do the decoke myself at some point in around 1989. The inlet valves were so thickly encrusted in carbon that they'd become some kind of misshapen tulip valve alikes. While I had the head off, I decided that I'd replace the inlet valve oil seals at the same time and while I had the head off.....I'll give it a quick glaze bust and re-ring the pistons. Actually, at that point it had 60k miles on it and you could still see the original honing marks on the bores. While I had the pistons out.....I decided that I'd drop the sump and replace the big end shells as well. Happy daze.....

Just as a matter of interest, is it thought that the charger in the link below would be considered smart enough for the task in hand as detailed in the above topic? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009A83P1E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought one and have been using it during the pandemic and have to say it's been functioning fine. There's another make (can't remember just at the moment) which everyone says is the bees knees but which costs four times as much. I did look into getting one of those but finished up getting two of the ones in the link. One is in use and the other boxed away as a sort of spare (at £20 a go it seemed rude not to) ... but the main reason for getting two was I can use the connector lead (that's included in the box) for my second car - it connects to the battery terminals and allows you to connect the charger to the battery by means of a very simple push connector which is simplicity itself to use.

I've charged my yeti a few times with a standard charger without any problems . 2.0 diesel 150 auto

Well, you learn something new every day. I never knew you couldn't charge the battery on a yeti fitted with stop-start with a standard charger. That's a blow, I've got a good charger that's only seen service twice in the last 15 years or so. Lives in the attic waiting its next call to action, but it seems it'll be waiting a long time! I'll have to read up about this topic as my Yeti is over 5 yrs old now, so the battery will probably get near the end in the next couple of years. Might also see if I can get a cheap smart charger - whatever that is - something else I'll need to read up on. Forewarned is forearmed, thanks guys!

The wet clutch use slowly contaminates the oil so it has to be replaced at 40k. However the clutch should outlast the rest of the car as wear is almost negligible. The drive is transmitted by shear in the oil so the plates are travelling at the same speed when they touch together. Dry clutch wears much like a manual clutch by using friction to take up the drive and will have to be replaced at some point. The oil in the gearbox is not affected so can last a very long time.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

I'm interested to see if other garages match our local Skoda dealer Meaden's of Sway. To declare an interest, we've had four cars from them, and continue. But last Wednesday I had a bump in my six month old IV L&K, in our village. A young lad in a red Polo ran into the back of me while stationery. Lot of dust and dirt, but beneath it some scratches through to the bumper plastic. Not worth an insurance claim though. But the driver looked very scared, I figured he's already learned the lesson and I was friendly and calm, we chatted, and I let him go. This was witnessed from across the road by one of Meaden's garage owners. He dropped me an email that afternoon, and said if I popped the car in, they'd sort out the damage free of charge. Which is what happened yesterday (I donated a large tub of chocolates). But how nice, friendly and efficient - do others have Skoda garages which are as valued?

Cylinder deactivation works only between 1,400 and 4,000 rpm and when the engine torque (presumably taken from the ecu map) lies in the range of 25 Nm to 75 Nm. Bear in mind that max torque for 1.5tsi/1.4tsi is much greater, 250 Nm, so ACT is only activated between 10% and 30% of max available torque In practice I find it needs 1500 sometimes 1600 rpm to trigger and will hold on to 1400 rpm only if the revs drop slowly enough without dipping below the threshold. It will also remain active even if you lift the throttle completely (zero torque) subject to rpm and the the caveat I explain later in this post. Its important to understand the relationship between torque and power. Power = Torque x rpm So for the same power output, torque is 33% lower at 2000rpm than at 1500rpm.........and so on...... When you are in 4th gear, you may satisfy the criterea for 2 cylinder mode, but when you change up to 5th, either the rpm drops too low, or the torque demand increases too high, even though the power developed is the same or lower. I have found there is at least another condition where ACT deactivates. If going downhill, and it is steep enough for the car to start accelerating on its own without any throttle, and the braking provided by the micro hybrid energy recovery is not enough to stop it accelerating, then ACT will deactivate to increase engine braking. Other factors are also taken into account. A minimum time after an engine start, it will delay after deactivating before reactivating, it will stop for a longer period if its being asked to activate/deactivate too frequently. And no doubt other factors too. Despite what the gear suggestion may say, its often more economical to hold onto a lower gear to keep rpm well above 1500rpm and keep torque low. Another big advantage to keep rpm high and so torque at the lower end is that it reduces the vibration caused by the inherent imbalance of 2 cylinder operation. This not only is more pleasant from a NVH point of view, it also reduces the stress/work demanded from the DMF and reduces torsional vibration through the gearbox and driveline, possibly leading to less wear on components Its easy to see the advantage using the instantaneous mpg display. I find the fuel saving at 1500 rpm can be marginal between the 2 modes, but change down and take it up to 1800 and higher and the saving is much more substantial and obvious (as well as being more pleasant). 2 cylinder mode gains most of its economy advantage by allowing a wider throttle plate opening which reduces pumping losses (and engine braking). Note this is all done automatically and is not related to the throttle position under your foot . Gear suggestion doesn't seem to take any account of ACT in my experience. Hope you understand all this.

OK, if you say so. What do you consider is the purpose of the compensator? A clue might be in the name.

Thanks for your help. I hadnt noticed the fuel flap tyre pressure details. The tyres had been set at 37r and 33 f by the dealer. I have reset them at 32(r) and 31(f) and its riding better. Thanks again.

Been road tripping, down to C & M, lovely and quiet on a Tuesday

The cat obviously has the memory of an elephant though.