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Drum roll................. Just delivered to me a Range Rover Vogue 3l V6 in Byron Blue Optional electric tow bar, opening panoramic roof and a couple of other little things. Pictures to follow. Dearly departed my 2015 335d which is think is one of the best all round cars around. 0-60 in 4.7sec but could still do 42mpg quite easily. I'm not sentimental about cars but that engine is bloody brilliant and it was a very easy car to live with and practically faultless in the time I had it. If anyone is thinking about one YK65FVZ was mine and it was a good one. Serviced, new brakes and powder coated wheels.

Mentioned a Mog to my mate, he said it would be good since you can use it to rotate the earth to the position you need. Less good for driving to Leicestershire

Picked up the Sportline after the four-year service and MOT. Face masks on the train ride to Croydon. Mask on to enter dealership. Log in with the NHS Covid app. Hand sanitiser at entrance. Follow the one-way system. Stand spaced out while we all wonder how long this is gonna take... Hand sanitiser at exit. Find car washed and hoovered. Nice. Sat in the car and thought I was going through the bottom! Mechanic must have been a very large man and did not reset the seat. Press button 1 to restore equilibrium. Must check tyre pressures tomorrow am – seems like he must have added a couple pounds of pressure all around. Car feels great. Not too bad, really. MOT passed. £39. (Since the last MOT, I put a whopping 1,913 miles on the car.) Major service = £329. Oil, air & pollen filters, spark plugs. Original battery tested: voltage measured, 12.24 V, 250 A (DIN); rated temperature, 360 A (DIN), 20°C (but I don't know what all that means). Don't know how long this battery will last, but car sits idle for a week, then fires up first crank after four years... So, all set for another year.

My Yeti gets used as a van more often than not. Rear seats out and MDF platform fitted. It takes but a few seconds to put the platform in once the seats are out. Pictures below

@Lady Elanore You can take the Loon out of Forfar but not Forfar out of the Loon. He needs boots for going to the dancing.

20200917_165916 by geof worrall, on Flickr dog making choice out of vast options

The trick is to first lightly dab the throttle, which releases the brake, then 1/2 second later press the pedal again to accelerate. There is thus no slight lurch when you move off, as you would get if you just press and hold the throttle. This has long since become second nature to me and allows the otherwise useful autohold to be left on without compromising smooth driving.

I am close to despair at the thought of 3 weeks without an MPG update, its very selfish & uncharitable but I find myself hoping that lightning strikes again & your 3rd holiday is cancelled. Could you not drive to your holiday & give us daily updates?

Byron is a light blue but aye pretty much. It's 'only' got 20"alloys but I didn't want 21 or 22 I actually will need to go down a muddy track. I'd have rather had Maserati for the difference but functionality ruled.

You could always buy your wife one of these

Nah. A farmer would have got a Unimog!

My wellies are Goodyear. I wouldn't pay for Mucboots never mind hunters. I'm more farmer than laird

Out of your list I'd say the folding mirrors are the most used for me. Look out the kitchen window, oh my car is unlocked...click. Headlight wash tweak is also useful so you don't waste screen wash. I would also recommend reducing the speed at which the reverse sensors stop when moving forward again. Pretty sure standard is in the region of 15mph. I have mine set to 8mph which is much nicer. After reversing from a bay in a multi-storey you could be out the bottom before you reach the normal threshold.

Return the wipers to park when the ignition is turned off (might be done by default now). Change the headlamp washers to require a 2 second pull and hold of the wiper stalk. Id also opt to get the rear lights on as DRLs as well.

The arb upgrade has zero effect on the ride. You won't know it's there until you corner. Doing them at the same time makes sense from an installation economy point of view but you will not be able to appreciate how much each upgrade affected what and you will most probably (and unfairly!) attribute all of the improvement to the shocks. There's two things that will significantly change with those upgrades: - Body-roll and under-steer bias will be reduced and the rear end will be more active during cornering (that's the ARB) - Overall firmer response from the chassis, less squat/dive/roll, much better connection with the road (shocks) You're getting the same results no matter if you do them both or one at a time obviously, it's just for your own curiosity and evaluation of each upgrade that it would be preferable to do them separately, but I can also understand someone just wanting to improve the car overall without caring too much how this was done exactly. Please do report back on the B6 Damptronic when you get them. It's been the main upgrade many people have been waiting for to turn this into a truly great car.

i'll share few links saved for me self - #1 place took Airlift Perfomance V2 https://www.bmptuning.com/products/air-lift-performance-complete-air-ride-kit-mqb https://www.drive2.ru/l/500212095892062783/ https://www.drive2.ru/l/501003469386154446/ more likely won't be realized because it's huge price of kit and complicated installation but not removed from the list cause i still can't find stiffer springs without lowering effect and air suspension will give ability change height on the fly in case my car has DCC, the list of shocks is so short KW StreetComfort; Bilstein B16; Bilstein B4; Bilstein B6; first two comes in lowering only version, not for me. currently my choice stays on Bilstein B6 DampTronic - better performance for reasonable price, but as i told, stuck on choosing correct springs # Bilstein online catalog # http://web1.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?11=18&14=4&10=E72CF059C0714555A320FD56FBC6F3BB018004&12=100 1100€ DCC Bilstein B6 Performance (DampTronic) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/ 23-254343 front for * 20-267537 rear for 2.0 AWD 20-267537 rear for 2.0 FWD 20-254353 rear for ? 1800€ Bilstein B16 Car Damptronic Coilover Full Kit 49-255874 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Bilstein-B16-Car-Damptronic-Coilover-Full-Kit-49-255874/253840584695 £290 DCC cancellation kit https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/kw/kw-electronic-damping-cancellation-kit-volkswagen-golf-mk7/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/458494-dcc-on-a-sportline/?do=findComment&comment=5159332 1300€ KW StreetComfort Skoda Superb III Mod.2016 (3T) Limo o. DCC (VA 1041-1200kg) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KW-StreetComfort-Skoda-Superb-III-Mod-2016-3T-Limo-o-DCC-VA-1041-1200kg/223424155292?hash=item34051e0e9c:g:rWkAAOSwaAlcdVdj 1700€ KW GFw V2 INOX passend für SKODA Superb, (3T) mit DCC / with DCC https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KW-GFw-V2-INOX-passend-fur-SKODA-Superb-3T-mit-DCC-with-DCC/274263733952?hash=item3fdb6476c0:g:gGEAAOSwuCBeRENK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KW-GFw-V2-INOX-passend-fur-SKODA-Superb-3T-mit-DCC-with-DCC/274263733864?hash=item3fdb647668:g:OfMAAOSwlGpeRENG 2400€ KW DDC "Plug & Play" coilovers Lowering FA/RA: 30-55mm/30-55mm https://www.kwsuspensions.net/productfinder/SKODA_SUPERB_III__3V3__03_2015-_3V3_2.0_TSI_Petrol_162KW_1984ccm_ve*dl4Yqck5aLrErYqSkJQ~~/58/DDC/39080045 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/454611-how-low-is-the-superb-combi-sportline/?tab=comments#comment-5107738 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/447585-skoda-is-doing-well-it-seems/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-5034464 # Bilstein B6 non DCC 2.0 AWD https://www.drive2.ru/l/517090973767959908/ 35-229872 front 24-229890 rear # Bilstein B6 non DCC 2.0 AWD https://www.drive2.ru/l/505662649908855532/ # Bilstein B8 non DCC 2.0 AWD https://www.drive2.ru/l/541997660916155885/ 35-229919 front 24-229937 rear # Bilstein B14PSS non DCC 2.0 AWD https://www.drive2.ru/l/503236027746353394/ # Koni FSD 2100-4181 non DCC 2.0 FWD # Eibach E10-85-042-02-22 https://www.drive2.ru/l/474824097528807733/ # Koni non DCC 1.8 FWD https://www.drive2.ru/l/475995627168203394/

Waiting in anticipation of the news on what the new addition to @Aspman's fleet is.

The only way, as I'm sure you well know, to get anything done is to start doing it. In seriousness though, I would be doing the head gasket first followed by the front struts and then whatever of the smaller jobs takes my fancy first. That way if you find anything while doing the head that you might have to wait for (parts/reconditioning etc), you can do the other jobs while you wait. But yeah go for the biggest job first I would say.

The rear seats just lift out, job done. It will not change from the Tax Class it is by removing the rear seats and seat belts & tint the rear windows. It will not get tested and changed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/447834-yeti-used-as-a-van http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/397916-irish-yeti-sherpa-van-150hp-4x4 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/470796-dog-guard-for-sherpa-yeti I have a Shogun SWB Van. Due to its weight i am limited to the NSL's for a Commercial Vehicle.

Hi Alex, Rob, I must admit I didn't realise that I could get web radio via the e-sim, I did try it and I'm pretty sure it said I needed to connect via Wi-fi but I spent so long going round in circles trying to access the "shop" and being told I wasn't the primary user when the welcome screen said I was! that my memory isn't that good! My dealer (in Ipswich) was really good at enabling the app though but they are too far away from yourselves to help. But I still need to discuss with them a solution to sort out my unwanted almost full size spare wheel. I have tried Android Auto and that works OK although I personally find the built in sat nav is better than Google maps if only because Google maps don't completely fill the screen, in all other respects I think my "Connect" is working OK so I will try web radio tomorrow - I might find it works but I won't hold my breath.. Rod

There were M4 deals not that far away from that as they ran the model out.

Here is my second Octavia VRS TSI, as I previously had a 2011 MK2 fl.

I am embarrassed to say I am a convert. I like the big grills, but only on the M cars, as the bonnet scoops balance the whole thing for me. Standard cars still look weird imho

It's booked in for the software upgrade on Friday (23/10), but whether this actually fixes the problem remains to be seen...

@Aspman Enjoy. I will be doffing my cap and giving the traditional wave.

It's not complicated, you need OE MLS gasket, PD150 head bolts, belt kit and a water pump. The head needs skimming minimally but you shouldn't change gasket thickness as that's related to piston crown height above the block deck which will not have changed. Get to it.

Despite the assertions, the charging cable does make a difference. I tried several brands and found the CABEPOW supplied, JSAUX brand (from Amazon) is definitely the best. I've fitted them to all my charging systems.

Loads, but once the bolt starts to bind up in the aluminium you basically have two choices. 1. Give up, do it back up and hope you didn't really need to do the job you were setting about doing. 2. Keep trying to get it out even if you have to snap it to do so. Reason being that it goes through the subframe as well as wishbone on its way into the big long threaded hole through the console. So you have to get the bolt out in order to get these other bits off the car. Right side viewed from above:

jealous of that garage!

I used them just because they helped with hitting pot holes, or as i thought and think, saves me replacing as many wrecked tyres. The sidewalls of various All Season & Winter tyres are pretty prone to damage / bulges IME. That is from me or people driving my cars hitting them and various things like ironworks on roads, or hiiting the 'Ramp' / Steel cover or cut tar at roadworks on an edge. Maxxis AP2 which is reinforced and still got an egg. Not always my wrecked tyres were 'Driver error'.

Hi Sasha Thanks for your reply. It's ok I've found the problem updated the OBD11 software and plugged it in again, it now shows exactly what the problem is, it even shows a photo of the offending item. It's the module in the mirror. All I have to do now is find a replacement. Regards Dave

Not changed anything on mine for two reasons: a) Downpipe I would be glad to upgrade but REVO does not offer yet a Stage 2 map for the 272 GPF engines. Will get a Milltek with HJS 200cell cat as soon as the maps are released. b) Cat-back is silly expensive in my eyes (or shall I say ears...) if you want to do it properly with an upgraded valved system, for the sound improvement it brings. No way I am paying 2K EUR for extra noise. There's cheaper options like a resonator delete but my experience says these approaches only make it worse for my taste so I've forgotten the idea all-together.

It might be worth giving them the TPI number of 2042935/3 before hand. My dealer had to order the 'special' grease in so I had to take the car back. Might save you a 2nd trip....

Your assumption IMO is correct about winter wheels. For years now I have always had a set of winter wheels and summer wheels. My current winter wheels are a set of Mercedes Borbet 16 inch alloys that have winter tyres fitted. I picked them up last summer for a bargain £82 off ebay. They did great last winter and will see me through this winter as well. They do have a few scuffs and a bit of kerb rash on them but they look ok and I am not worried if I damage them further in bad conditions.

Have you got it through the rubber gator? If so you need a thick wire or rod to push it up the side - you can then grab it half way up by the heated rear screen harness, pull the wire all the way up, then feed it through to the bootlid. Getting it though the gator can be tricky, again a rod and patience is the key

Hi, The first car I ever really saw as a child was an E93A van; I must have been about 6 years old and in 1953 only one neighbour could afford this even then it was an old banger with its bonnet more open than closed. I was 5 years old when my parents had electricity installed; we relied a lot on gas and coal fires in those days. Yes 6V electrics in the cars in those days. It must have taken a brave person to drive one of these at 40 mph. Thanks Austin 7. I mentioned adblue needs draining and refilling at 4 years old because it surprised me to read it in the Yeti manual this morning. I buy the big containers of adblue from our local BP station; I think they are about 10L and not expensive. Yes it's a palaver topping up but I resort to using a plastic jug and funnel to prevent spillage; I also use an LED small torch to peer into the tank opening to judge level. Once it's been topped up then switch on the ignition but not the engine for half a minute this resets everything. The following is what can happen with correct car maintenance; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHOk87QWmmk Our Yeti now just on 25,000 miles and me at 73 years old it might see me out; my wife and I have no intention of parting with it any time soon. The Volvo in the video is pre electronic and isn't fitted with every modern must have convenience. Kind regards, Colin

I think it might still not be too late for a final Unimog push from the Brisky cognoscenti

Maybe need to start a thread to hear from folks who have changed their suspension units, so we can have all the opinions from those that have done it for DCC and non DCC in the one place. So people fed up with the banging and carrying on, who are thinking of sorting their own out can see who’s changed what, and what with, and get first hand experience of the results. I’ll start one soon if it’s not done, but I need to feed the kids first. 😂

Didn't quite catch that Shy........how many mpg are you getting......do keep telling us......I have a tendency to forget after an hour or two, I wonder why?

My car 2018 1.4 SEL Hatch with DCC 235/45 R18 I drive like a grandad mostly, I'm a grown up now. After 2.5 years, yes the suspension is very disappointing. DCC makes only subtle difference between modes. Unless you knew you would not detect the difference. My son who drives 20k miles a year couldn't until I showed him. Normal = simply the best compromise Comfort mostly not much difference from Normal. But if you go over a speed hump you notice its bounce is not controlled, it continues well past the half cycle that it should control. Basically damping is very much reduced. With a road that has, what rail engineers call cyclic top, a series of dips and crests, even quite slight, it can get very hairy, very quickly and uncontrolled as it hits the natural frequency of the suspension Sport = reminds you just how crap the road is. It doesn't seem to offer much in the way of improved handling, just you can hear and feel all the little bumps far more. Makes me feel sick and tired after a short while. To me this car has obviously been set up for high speed motorway driving, it really starts to feel great at speeds of 80mph+ but that of course is illegal and licence robbing speed in the UK. Its not too bad if it hits a bump, provided its on both sides straight on and going fast enough. But if you are go over a speed hump on just one side, its not pleasant, I think the arb has some blame here. If the road conditions make left and right sides do things out of sync over a certain level of unevenness, it gets messy. In its defence, DCC does seem to assist sudden changes in direction and taking corners at reasonable speeds, more than a simple arb would. And thats regardless of mode. Very little lean. Maybe thats the Dynamic bit of DCC. All in all it's a noisy affair, road roar is loud and constant (P7) and highly surface dependent. Road joints, manhole covers etc usually are loud slapping affairs. Potholes do bang loudly and can be very disturbing, but I doubt its the suspension bottoming, its just that the front setup in particular is not well isolated from the body. Stupid low profiles just make it worse, would not buy a car with 45 or less profile again. In summary, its a large barge with big armchairs on squidgy springs/dampers and in my case, hard wheels/tyres. Its size and wheelbase is never going to make it sporty, not that that interests me a great deal. Road noise and a tendency to wallow are its most annoying traits for me. There is a short stretch of the M1 somewhere near Sheffield where everything is bliss, super silence and calm, sadly less than a mile or two. If only all UK roads were like that.

Be sure there are no split pipes for the rear washer. Known problem for these to break and come apart and leak where the CD changer is.

Well the fabia is sold! Got offered a friends car I couldn’t refuse. Hopefully the right decision 😬

I'm interested to see if other garages match our local Skoda dealer Meaden's of Sway. To declare an interest, we've had four cars from them, and continue. But last Wednesday I had a bump in my six month old IV L&K, in our village. A young lad in a red Polo ran into the back of me while stationery. Lot of dust and dirt, but beneath it some scratches through to the bumper plastic. Not worth an insurance claim though. But the driver looked very scared, I figured he's already learned the lesson and I was friendly and calm, we chatted, and I let him go. This was witnessed from across the road by one of Meaden's garage owners. He dropped me an email that afternoon, and said if I popped the car in, they'd sort out the damage free of charge. Which is what happened yesterday (I donated a large tub of chocolates). But how nice, friendly and efficient - do others have Skoda garages which are as valued?

It's this one but it's in German for example ( I do speak German)

The problem with the IV vRS (245BHP) and in fact the whole VAG hybrid 245BHP line up is once the battery is empty in 20 minutes you're left with an rather expensive 150BHP 1.5L TSI engine. What's the point of it? If you want a performance car , the performance has to be there all the time. If you want to save and poodle along on battery might as well buy an electric car. Would never buy this PHEV, either the full TSI245 or an electric car

Been road tripping, down to C & M, lovely and quiet on a Tuesday

Just to remind people who have a 2wd multilink rear...so VRS & L&K...you can bolt on to the existing holes the part that was made for that rear subframe...all info here in the how to guide I wrote on the MK7 Golf forum https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-the-rear-subframe-harmonic-damper-from-the-audi-a3-saloon-2013.369369/

DSC_0059_1 by Silvio Ulovec, on Flickr