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When I put my foot down it sounds like the gates of hell have opened !!! ( In reality when I'm parked on the drive I can hear them clicking as they open and shut .... Thats how I know they are there but HEY !!! It's cool ... Right ? ) Edit to Say ... If you own a 272 DO NOT read the text in brackets please ...

Maybe that's because nobody here has any feedback? ... because we don't agree with the concept of "ambulance chasing"?

If you haven't suffered any financial loss then you aren't entitled to any compensation for the loss that you haven't had - to claim otherwise could be taken as fraud. When have any lawyers been trustworthy?

My car I bought after the scandal was common knowledge, it turns out to have had the emission fix, I genuinely did not know before buying because: 1. I did not bother to check 2. I would not have given a flying **** whether it had or not, it was a very cheap project car written off for stupid insurance reasons. 3. I can get the "fix" rolled back when I have the engine remapped. So I had no hurt feelings but on reflection I realise that I am simply unaware of having any hurt feelings so I am going to consult one of these lawyers so they can tell me if I do in fact have hurt feelings and how to become compensated for them. Come to think of it I was traumatised at having to do this job:

Oh FFS... That attitude is one of the things that is wrong with the world these days. Once again WHY do you personally deserve compensation? You've already said you've experienced no impact at all, nor are you aware of any suffering you've experienced as a result of the issue. You are therefore simply 'trying it on' to get whatever financial gain you can with no good reason. Sorry but that is how it comes across and I'm not a fan of such behaviour - it stinks.

If I remember correctly, the 1989 UK regs state "The total wattage of any one reversing lamp shall not exceed 24 watts". However, your car will actually be covered by the ECE regs rather than the UK ones. In this case, it's R23 that covers reversing lights and it's got much more complex requirements. Just for example, 6.1.3 states: That being said, there are no brightness checks/requirements for the UK MOT

Save yourself a few bob by just shouting brum! brum! as you accelerate

Thanks for the chuckle.

I think you're completely missing the point. I'm driving out of my way now to get 99 ron. I'm getting a stiffer roll bar fitted to improve handling a little. I want the car/exhaust to have a nice subtle note to it that I can here in the car when I'm driving (for my pleasure), that is well within legal noise limits and in a way that doesn't appear chavy and keeps the car looking and sounding as stock as possible. Which part of that is anti-social and makes the car no longer a sleeper? I've asked for some advice/suggestions, and so far your posts have been about as helpful as a box of matches in a forest fire.

Funny thing is the 280 comes with a valved exhaust to (supposedly) provide extra noise under acceleration in Sport mode. However, unlike the same system on the R, you can't tell if it's on or off since they apparently over muffled the resonator and rear mufflers to give it more of a comfort/cruising character, makes you wonder why they bothered with it in the first place... Now don't tell this to @Nick_H ! He's convinced all hell breaks loose when he's flooring his

Greetings from Croatia!

If you look at the bonnet a couple of these are usually screwed into it at the front, one on each corner. Not entirely sure it’s purpose but it adjusts the height of the bonnet when shut and acts like a cushion of sorts I expect. The screw thread at one end allows it to be screwed into the holes and height adjusted

Rear camera is a super easy retrofit. The SportLine is an odd trim level, the initial release was a single spec, for MY19 the range diversified with SportLine getting a spec reduction and the Plus model picking up where the old spec left off and added some essential options like heated seats. Where the SportLine lacks for me is the lack of lane assist as standard, this is such an omission on a car of this price, especially as the Mk3 Octavia vRS which is several thousand £ cheaper and an older model of car got it as standard. Only the Plus gets heated seats as standard and the power bootlid, heated screen and front sensors are other essential options IMO. The facelift cars have the A5 camera for Dynamic Light Assist as standard from SE-L and above so that’s an improvement. Don’t discount the L&K, the spec is killer, there’s a reason they are so desirable.

After 3 Skodas ( 2x Octavias & 1x Karoq), ALL 3 giving faultless service and having been great transport, I've opted to go all electric with a Kia e Niro in 4+ spec. At the time of ordering details on the Enyaq were sketchy, with a starting price of £40k without options being mooted, so that was out of the question for me. I know its a lot less now, but too late, I've just taken delivery of the fully specced e Niro and so far very happy. My Karoq , in immaculate condition was returned to Skoda today via BCA ( it was on lease like the Kia is) therefore its goodbye from me, with best wishes to you all, and onto another motoring adventure !

I had mine changed at an Indy who uses genuine parts and cost me £385 for timing belt and water pump.

@SkudMissile21 I didn't know too. I discovered that "accidentally"...

I think that a custom exhaust is the only solution, and it will be costly. I had to modify my stock exhaust but i wanted it to be quiet. Now it's silent at low rpm, inside you can hear it only when pushing hard. You have to ask to a exhaust specialist what you want, it's the only way you can get the sound what you're searching for. Here's mine:

Pimoroni.

Modern sealed Lead acid batteries are filled and sealed at manufacture, they use calcium to prolong shelf life and reduce self-discharge. As soon as such a battery is filled it is immediately available for use and requires no charging beforehand, it is conceivable that a battery that has sat on the shelf for a long time would need a top-up charge but it's very unlikely. There is no accurate way to determine charge capacity of a lead acid battery but if it's new then it'll be VERY close to 100%. Close enough to fit and forget about.

I simply lined it up as it came out, pushed & wiggled it in.

Go here, click Download this file, select 0A8 gearbox, download that and there's probably some relevant info in there that may help

I used a Lithuanian Ebay seller in the London area, cost about £60 to cut the key and clone the immobiliser chip. It was an interesting area to say the least, a multi-tenanted terraced house with lots of seperate doorbells, guy came to the door & took my key & dissapeared inside to do the business, after I while I began to wonder what I would do if he didn't come back with the only key to start the vehicle I was relieved when he came out with the electronic box of tricks after having cut the blade, relieved that my key still started the vehicle & even more relieved when after doing his stuff with the box of tricks the new one did as well. Money well spent.

Tell you what... Just make something up... That's what the 'lawyers' will do... Anyhow this thread is now giving the impression of trolling...

Im exactly like you @TheBinarySheep im also wanting to improve sound of my 280 exhaust. I believe car that's pushing close to 300bhp should make more noise at least in Sport mode. But being the type of car it is, i believe there is very fine line between improving it and spoiling it.... Been looking at cat back system from Golf R estate 7.5, the can be had for about 300quid in decent nick but not sure how labour intensive it is to make one fit, but has to be adjusted so i was told on Skoda Modderz on FB. Other than that you looking at £1000+ for half decent cat back system....

Roll up roll up and try your chances getting paid for buying a car after a scandal was public knowledge. https://www.ft.com/content/7f881c88-8981-4691-8040-06a25cdc0e3f

Would something like the R600 intake, elbow and a muffler delete lift it any without fiddling with the exhaust, and causing drone/boom while at motorway speeds. Personally, i like my motors to go like stink in relative silence, as i get more entertainment value from it that way.

A rear work lamp is a perfectly valid solution even if you don't like it As would fitting some motion triggered lights to your driveway If you do fit an LED, my only suggestion would be to buy a decent quality branded LED rather than generic Chinese stuff. If it causes a bulb out warning, have the car coded to suit (ODIS-e or VCP only, VCDS can't do this on a Yeti) or fit load resistors. If you do use load resistors, remember they will get warm so attach them to the metal bodywork to help with heat dissipation. I'm not sure what bulb the Yeti uses but these tend to be well liked: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-x-tremeultinon-led-gen2-p21w-6000k-twin

Check on the MySkoda app and it will give you the build date. .

You're asking us from Greece, and the majority of us on the forum live in the UK so are not familiar with Greek law. If you read the small print in your warranty, you'll probably find that you're only allowed to have your car serviced in an approved Skoda dealers, and unauthorised modifications of any kind are forbidden. In practice, IN THE UK, modifications that could not have affected the fault that you wish to be covered by the warranty will be overlooked. For instance, fitting different wheels will not disqualify a claim for defective paint. But you will be relying on Greek case law, and the Greek Skoda importer,

@TheBinarySheep Why would anyone else want to hear any more or a different noise from your car as you accelerate, why not just open your windows and listen to the noise it already makes.

@Lakisof Welcome to the forum. Best read the Manufacturers warranty, T&C's and exclusions. The ones on Non Factory approved hardware or software / engine management. You are not doing that, just changing settings / codes. I can not see anything about activating or making changes to features you have provided on a vehicle you bought and paid for by enabling them. If the features are detrimental to the efficient running of the vehicle and might cause failures of parts that are being claimed for under warranty that might be an issue. Changing the function of the dash, lights, wipers, door / hatch openings etc and maybe even accelerator / brakes / steering for choices available already built into the car will be something that would have to be shown to have caused the failures i would hope.

I think there are too many that try to get on the gravy train while there are actually people that bought vehicles and have lost financially because of VW, that was with faults that were because of the components and before the scandal broke, and then that had cars that had the fix and failed but were not covered by the VW Peace of mind 24 month guarantee.

Hundreds of us have made changes to the setup of our cars using VCDS et al, I've been making changes to my VAG vehicles since 2003 and never had any comment or problem from dealers regarding affecting the warranty - I believe that others have the same experience. What's the legal position? Who knows as AFAIK there has not been a test case.

Guessing is rather a bad plan here. If there is a faulty wheel speed sensor causing the light, it might be a rear one rather than a front one. Front ones can be hard to remove due to corrosion in the hole they fit through, so don't replace anything without being certain that item is faulty.

This has actually changed my opinion on it, I'm quite liking it. Still don't like the stupid electric parking brake, which I think is too easy to forget to activate, unless it activates automatically when you turn off the ignition and it's in park.

I am more or less of the same mindset but really a remap and some cheap suspension mods that I even carried out myself (no installation cost) don't count as serious modding in my book. All in all their cost is more or less equivalent with having ticked a few more extras during ordering plus I always considered these the basic/minimum mods that I would have to do anyway to be able to live with this particular car as it left me a bit underwhelmed as stock (for my standards), then see what I'do from that point on if it weren't enough. I am at that point now and in reality I only consider the real modding to be starting now (if i keep it), when every new upgrade will come with a 4-digit price tag (shocks, brakes, stage 2, haldex controller?), which is why I want to be sure about it, that it will take me where i want to and not act as a temporary stage before blowing it all away for a different car. When modifying a car, you build something personal which might be just right for you and you alone so you shouldn't be expecting to get any significant amount of that cost back (not without going into lots of un-installation trouble anyway).

Not sure but it's possible... It's not a good period to sell anyway and winter is starting so I will soon enter "standby mode" with fast driving and mods which means this decision will move to next spring unless some car that really attracts me comes along... M340i is more tempting than the RS4 to be honest, I feel it would be better to drive than the Audi despite being a bit slower, but that would be more money that I am currently willing to pay for a car that will still be used/abused for daily purposes.

What wattage are the standard reverse bulbs? A quick Google search shows they are 21w, so that won't work. I would suggest taking one out, seeing if the Bulb Failure comes on, and if it doesn't fit some LED ones.

Jesus. That noise generator. Put it in the bin.

Where do I start with my Karoq 1.5 TSI Sportline, engine problems. On the day on picking up the car, call from dealership this was damaged to the bonnet, it’s was that bad, bonnet replaced, was this a bad omen. Just after picking up the car from the body shop, travelling to work overtaking a Octavia on the bypass, loss of power and no acceleration. Managed to regain power, carried onto work when entering into the car park area, loss of power and no response from the accelerator. This fault happened three times, along with poor fuel consumption and EPC light lit on starting the engine, meanwhile the car is only 6 weeks old. Fault diagnosed with a fault inlet cam sensor, known faulty batch of sensors, the sensor was replaced, drove the car felt fine. About week later, entering a roundabout had no response from the engine, had to change down a couple of gears before getting a response from the engine. No problems for couple of weeks, fault appeared again with loss of response from the accelerator, poor fuel consumption (27 mpg), kangrooing and hesitation in acceleration. Contacted the dealership, telling me return the car ASAP. After delivering the car, I told the sales manager I was rejecting the car. Heard nothing from the dealership for couple weeks later, had a telephone call from them, saying they were unable to find fault with car. Told the dealership, I was not accepting the car back, so they drove car for another couple of weeks, not updating me what was happening with the car, with the rejection and fault finding. So after listening to the dealership, they were waiting for the south west area manager to contact them. I started researching about how to rejecting the car, so googled the fault with 1.5 TSI engine, definitely few complaints across the VAG range. So officially rejected the car under Consumer Act 2015 (Not fit for purpose and safety issue) emailed the dealership, waited and waited, then dealership advised me to rejected to Skoda finance and Skoda customer services. Two telephone calls later and emails received to confirmed rejection, this can take up to 8 weeks, now 5 weeks left and still no case manager allocated to the rejection. Meanwhile, this week spoke to Customer case manager and found out that she had spoken to the dealership and found a fault, EPC warning light lit on starting the engine. The fault was diagnosed with faulty inlet cam sensor again, from the same batch from the original fault sensor. Dealership offered me a replacement car, same engine and model, rejected the offer not wanting the 1.5 TSI engine. Now buying another car from the VAG range, but not 1.5 TSI engine.

Try and drive both engines, regardless of trim level or bodystyle. Make your decision and then find the right car. Personally I went straight for the 280 and haven't looked back, I'm sure the 220 is fine for everyday driving but I did get tired in my Leon 1.8 TSI with ~220bhp after a remap which spun the front wheels a fair amount.

Thanks guys - I will certainly provide a review / views of my Kia. I've been getting it organised today, re- stocking (!?!) it with stuff I always carry around, plus installing my radar detector & dashcam whilst hiding the cables under the trim etc. First thoughts ; great build quality, unsure about the view outside from the front which divides opinion that's for sure; the "toys" are a revelation, from the heated steering wheel to the drivers seat automatically moving rearwards when you open the door which eases egress, yet returns to the correct position when getting back in, to the spacious interior, and the boot is a good size too with loads of cubby space under the boot floor. The touch screen has a multitude of items that I've yet to fully explore. No spare wheel in the Niro which is a shame, just a compressor & "gunk kit" so not even a jack or wheel brace provided either. Only very limited driving done as yet, but as soon as things allow, I'll provide more info, but so far so very good, even re charging at the free Pod Point Chargers at Tesco's is a doddle, although I'm getting my home charger installed on Monday if all goes to plan. With a realistic 250 mile range on a full charge, once per month (about £8 ) should do me, costing FAR less than my Karoq did, which itself was pretty good doing about 40mpg on average. Anyway, more to follow as things develop........

Check spark plugs' condition. Buy a spare coilpack.

Ok, I think water is coming in the front passenger side. A couple of people on the forum had similar problems with different causes. One person removed the wheel arch liner when the front wheel was off and it was full of leaves. I tried the same and it was full right up to the top. This would make sense from where I think the water is getting in. Photo of the bottom bit where it was compact, but there were leaves right up to the top. Cleared it, hopefully it solveds it and helps someone else with a similar problem. Poured water on the car, it goes through the drains and onto the ground almost instantly, before it took a while

Have just booked my superb in for its first service next month and the service guy told me it was on a two year service plan, before I even mentioned it.

I had mine replaced by the local dealer. Fornthe cost (about £120) I thought it easier to get them to do it, and have a comeback of it were to fail again...

Not physically impossible, but not financially viable by any means.

Oh, and the fish n chips I had..

Mine is this one from a UK retailer https://audiotechdirect.com/pba-vw5115v-8-android-10-0-after-market-radio-for-vw-seat-skoda/ Great customer service too.

Had mine in for 18 months, all buttons on the steering wheel worked as soon as it was plugged in.