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Due to the potential problem in using clone cables, Briskoda has stated in the Site Guidelines that discussion regarding these is not allowed. When an OEM cable is purchased then people will be able to assist further.

Brake Energy Recovery in detail. 3 seperate recordings of voltage and current on the VAG “Smart” alternator. Very interesting the wide scope of both voltage and current across the 3 seperate runs. Equipment used to takes recordings was Fluke AC/DC Volt meter and Fluke DC current meter. Both meters able to record live data. Voltage data recorded directly from battery positive terminal and negative earth connection on the firewall. Current recorded directly from main positive cable 100mm from positive battery terminal. All three runs were over a total of 100+km distance incorporating Urban, highway, and back street roads. SKODA RUN 1.pdf SKODA RUN 2.pdf SKODA RUN 3.pdf

There is a lot of confusion here... A 2016 car can’t be a 1.5, they didn’t come out until the 2018 model. Front assist (where you have the radar on the front for emergency assistance) is a separate option to ACC, though all cars with ACC have it, many cars only have front assist. Front Assist is standard on the facelift SE-L and I believe the MY17 pre facelift SE-L but ACC never has been. The only specs that had ACC as standard were the FL SE-Tech and L&K. ACC isn’t a plug and play job and even though you have front assist you will still likely need a new ABS pump, rear ABS sensors, a new radar, stalks and ODIS-E activation as the MRR radar’s have FeC’s to deal with. If the car has 2 stalks it has regular cruise. If the car has 3 stalks it has ACC. Unfortunately the odds that your car does have ACC but has the wrong stalks is vanishingly slim. ACC settings are adjustable in the driver assistance menu in the radio and Maxidot. Far more likely the dealer who sold it to you thought that presence of the radar meant it did. You can check with a Skoda dealer who can check the cars PR codes and that’ll show if it has the PR for ACC. As for making an ACC equipped car behave like it has normal CC, (for the avoidance of doubt in case this option is considered) it cannot be done without swapping the radar back to an FA only radar, extensive recoding and even then you will likely be faced with an array of fault lights. ACC coding is present in at least 6 modules on the car.

my friends response when i told him i had phone mount ordered...

I used a website called Ledperf. And got and got led side lights which I'm very happy with, always bothered me that my model, 2016 vrs had all led lights bar the side light. Not sure if meant to share links etc. here but I'll pm you

Hi Nick, Those cheshire farm dogs I was welcomed by a wolf hound many years ago.... I was like 6 and it was odd looking up at a dog. I got back in the van PDQ. Sandbach was my old school Now as to scratches, umm, t-cut likewise only ever used on older solid colours, when they applied a decent thickness of paint too. I'm going to move this to styling/care as it's more likely to get a wiser pair of eyes than mine. Scratches after all are universal across all models.

Thank you

Today`s job.

Yeah its something that has never bothered me personally so I would never even think to turn it off.

Surely if it's just bad contacts then either adjusting them or adding solder pads will save an awful lot of trouble and be loads faster to do?

I've just been to look again when I open either door only the red marker lights light and not the interior light .But the centre switch when in the on position when touched lightly get the lights on but flickers so that defiantly faulty and when pressed to the switch position no lights with either door open . So I'm going to get another unit with the switches

In Germany doing 200 or 250 kph on the autobahn is just a trip to work whereas in the UK it could result in prison driving that fast. No wonder it is not much incentive to buy are car or motorcycle than can "ton up" in the UK. As ex-Department of Transport I appreciate roads have design speeds and the UK has road pollution issues but some relaxation of speed limits ie 80 mph plus 10% plus 2 mph ie genuine 90 would be nice in good conditions on certain UK motorway at certain times.

My previous car came from Audi with an oil temperature related rpm limiter - the OE setting was 40 Celsius before the 4000rpm limiter was lifted to the 'normal' rpm limit of 8250rpm but several tuners changed the setting to 70 Celsius.

I honestly think you have some grounds for some goodwill from Skoda then. Have you contacted them?

Just to add to the 225/45R19 suggestion...the Kodiaq has a 7Jx19 ET43 rim option. These look similar to the VEGA 8Jx19 ET45 rims from the Karoq. See the two links below for photos of the 19" CRATER rims from the Kodiaq. CRATER 7Jx19 ET43 Rims from the Kodiaq in Matte Black https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-crater-19-pro-kodiaq/p/565071499++ZG6 CRATER 7Jx19 ET43 Rims from the Kodiaq in Anthracite https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-crater-19-pro-kodiaq/p/565071499++ZG6 225/45R19 tyres fitted to 7J rims will ride a lot softer than when fitted to 8J rims.

no this is not a standard feature

The efficient Oil temp is around 92*oC, that can go up to the low 100*oC plus in summer in the UK, under load etc. Maybe take a cold start easy for 5 miles or more and until 50*oC shows as an indicated temp. That will change in winter and might take longer. 70*oC & above is OK. The engine is not made of chocolate and really does not need treated with kid gloves, especially since the NSL is 60 and 70 restricted speeds. Be sure to have your oil level in the Area A as shown in the Owners Manual when checked at Normal Operating Temp, so that is around 80-90*oC. Do not wait for Low Oil Level Warning Lights. Know where the At Operating Temp / Hot level is, then check where that shows when cold.

Not sure on Skoda's but first port of call on my Citroen C5's was a '3 pin' reset.... Pull the battery and let it settle down and then re fit, cured all sorts, cheap option if nothing else?

Sorry, but in blunt terms, without spending money, the basic answer is no. In theory can change tyres or shock absorbers, but ultimately 19 inch wheels are to look good on billiard table smooth roads and showroom floors. The electronic DCC adaptable dampers (if fitted) can mask road imperfections. Unfortunately, the looks part of 19 inch wheels is a case of style over practicality, there is a reason why versions of Karoq come with 17 inch wheels (and 16 inch in some European countries), and it is because you can fit deeper sidewall tyres to absorb road imperfections. There are basically 2 ways to absorb road imperfections, primary suspension (rubber tyres sidewall) so fine ripples don’t get to the metal wheel rim, and secondary suspension (which is really for bigger bumps) which is the springs between wheel and body. This has come up before, but many posters would prefer an option to specify smaller wheels with all season tyres instead of large wheels with summer tyres

Hello, I got this beauty and i would like to share some pics of it with these nice summer wheels and the Maxton diffuser i just installed some day ago.

Hi 👋🏻, I’m a new Skoda owner and have VCDS. Being based in West Wales, if you need a hand with VCDS coding, just let me know 👍🏻

Seasons greetings to you all firstly!! I am in the process of composing a detailed snail mail letter to the head of Customer Services ( I think it is someone called maxine jenning but will check for certain later) regarding the dreadful customer service and lack of information we all seem to be experiencing regarding, in particular around the MIB3 Sat nav. I would like to think that, if they were really on top of their job, then they would peruse the Briskoda Forums for issues that they should perhaps be taking a detailed interest in, but maybe i am being too optomistic!!! When i think about it, when i was looking round for a new car five months ago,( considering VW, Peugeot,Seat and Skoda,) I e-mailed customer service with a question about the Karoq and never got an answer, not a great start! I have another question outstanding as yet un answered! This is all such a shame as I am delighted with the car itself, cant say the same for Customer relations!!!! I intend to the send the letter after the holidays and when ( and If !!!) I get a reply, if there is anything meaningful in it, I will post the relevant info here inthe Forum. If any more of you can be bothered i dont think a deluge of letters to Customer Services would do any harm at all. Regards

Err @FrankLK - your photo leads to a 1000 questions..... Its either your 'other' person and you enjoy your gender fluidity and dressing up or you have an amazing other half - or worst news of all.....you go and pick up certain ladies of the night - just to pose with your downlighters.....disgraceful!

There are several threads on this. Some people advocate cleaning the glass with this or that but the general consensus is that you need the Bosch Aerotwin wipers.........

Got a call today to say the car was fixed and did we want to keep it and cancel the rejection of the car. We had a thought about it and have decided to have the car, so will be a happy Kodiaq owner again at the weekend.

I'm currently running My Skoda and Connect Lite on my Karoq built in the July to November 2018 period. I have an Android phone, I use something called Hotspot Automatic that creates a hotspot when my phone connects to the cars bluetooth and the car uses this for the navigation traffic information and the other limited bits like weather and news on the Amundsmen infotainment unit. Using My Skoda, I don't have to connect with a usb, it seems to connect to the car via the wifi hotspot but I do have to start the My Skoda app and go into Logbook if I want a trip recorded. It then sits there telling me not to close the window if I want the trip recorded. As it takes my phone and the car a hundred yards to get the wifi hot spot activated and the car connected to the internet the journeys start recording a short distance from home. Using Connect Lite, this connects using the bluetooth dongle, it's automatic, I don't have to start the Connect Lite app, it connects as soon as the phone connects to bluetooth which is almost instant. On a recent jouney, My Skoda says it was 19 miles, my average rpm was 1668 rpm, my average speed was 9 mph and it took 40 minutes (19 miles in 2/rds of an hour was 28 mph when I went to school). Efficiency was 78%. There's a few bits of info on the map, highest rpm 4122 rpm. Maximum speed 15 mph (totally wrong) Also some other info about left and right lateral acceleration (0.3g), not sure if that's the car telling me or if it's using my phone. Some of the information looks decidedly wrong. Connect Lite agrees 19miles, average speed was 30mph, max speed 55 mph. duration 41 minutes. Fuel cost £2.Exhaust gas temp 673.6 degrees C, oil temperature 41.1 C (I suspect that might be an average didn't check). My efficiency taking everything into account was 93%. I should soon have enough points to add coolant and Intake air temperature, but a while to go before I get to see Throttle Valve position. The map has little red lines which I suspect is when I was accelerating. As Connect Lite is completely automatic and seems to offer more accurate information (it does come from the cars OBD port) of the two it seems the winner and if you're into apps worth a fiver for the bluetooth sender unit Neither allow me to see the Digital Service History though which was a feature of the app My Skoda replaced. Both apps no doubt send loads of information back to VAG but Connect Lite probably a lot more as it's in touch with the cars electronics via the EBD, just like in a plane though I don't suppose there's a technician watching the performance like there is for Rolls Royce aero engines.

That is exactly what Skoda did from the turn of this century and it gained them market share and many loyal customers, having got them then they changed strategy to exploit them and the reputation that they had built up. The winners (or the least losers) are people like me that buy second hand and attend to the faults that caused the vehicle to be sold cheaply, the faults that could so easily have been resolved with a little common sense instead of playing parts bingo with the customers money and/or fobbing them off, keeping the car for ages doing work & never resolving the issue & damaging their reputation and the customer loyalty that they once worked hard for in the process.

@havik Yes! just price increased in last few years, first edition device with Pro licence in far 2016 costed €75 forum - https://forum.obdeleven.com/

Regenerative brakes have been around for a long time in trains and earth movers. They used resistors to burn off the electricity generated so easy to address. Regen is fine at higher speeds but doesn't work well at low speeds. Worked on a mine in SA where they had coal haulers with all up weight of 360 tons, the friction brake could only be used below 5 kph or they burned out. While I was there the regen brake failed on a loaded coal hauler, it took a couple of miles for it to stop. Not something you want to happen in a car.

I have read that one too mate! Nothing on that page says it remembers anything about the way you drive. It reacts to your use of the throttle "on the basis of pre-defined driving programmes" as you do it Each model using the DQ250 will have a different set of values so comparing any Octy model to anything else (including a different Octy) is a bit pointless. Only way to change those pre-defined values is to remap the TCU. The guys who remap them for a living are not aware of any changes to the maps. What they map is fixed I have properly driven 5 DQ250 cars and still have regular access to 3 of them (jumped into many more for a blast). They all react exactly the same as last time I drove them to how I mash the throttle. There may be differences due to the self-adjustment of the clutches to maintain the bite point but I cannot see anything else that is stored. Nothing else is changed by a "Basic Reset" other than that bite point adjustment. Like I say I would still like to see something different in black and white