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Hmmmm. Just what I was thinking.

Just been out to the car (-3°C). Light dusting of frozen snow melted by heated windscreen alone in 5 mins. Success!

Its all about the tyres.

Hello, I made an account to reply to the owners not getting their AA wireless to work. My 2021 Octavia got delivered last week. And i'm in the same boat. But I got a lot of info today from Skoda. So the wireless option is only available on the Units ending on D and E with SW 1788. In other words, the vehicles PRODUCED after 23 nov 2020. Mine has 06 nov as date of birth. But i'm not leaving it like this, it was offered as a function when I ordered the car and it is described in the manual of 07/2020. I'll keep you guys posted! Kinds regards from Belgium, Wes

Thank you @e-Roottoot for pointing this out. A screen shot from owners manual.

My 2005 Fabia Mk1 was suffering with a stiff gearstick not returning to the centre position. Other than that the gearbox is fine. Fix. I pulled open the gearstick gaiter and could see that the spring was not broken. I then unbolted the battery and removed. The battery tray was unbolted and swung to the right and over the cars wing so I could gain access to the gearbox selector cables etc. On Top of the gearbox you will see the two gearbox cables coming from the car and connecting via swivel connectors to the gear selector arm on top of the gearbox. If you take hold of the large alloy arm (point 4 in picture ) you can move it right + left and up and down and it should be smooth. Take note of the white plastic guid which slides back and fore on the large alloy arm Not easy but if you use a large screwdriver and pry off the gearbox cable connectors from the knuckles on the gearbox arm on top of the gearbox. Marked as number 1 in the picture below. Now take hold again of the alloy selector arm on top of the gearbox and push down to see if it pops back up of its own accord. If it does not or slow/stiff then here is the simple and cheap fix. If you look at the bracket with the two swivel ball joints on it. This has a metal arm (top swivel joint number 1 is connected to the arm and it fits into the cst allow point A in the picture) which fits into a cast alloy section of the gearbox. To remove you will need to look to the right and unclip a retaining clip (number 3 in picture) which simply pulls/slides off by hand or long nose pliers. As this metal arm is stiff going into the cast alloy (part A in picture) , then gently pry out to your left and towards the engine. Once out clean up the metal bar which now should be obvious. Now go back to the cast alloy section (point A in picture ) where the metal bar came out of. On either end take a flat screwdriver and pry out the two plastic sheaths which have been pushed into the alloy cast at either end. of alloy cast A. Order two new ones from the internet or TPS part number 1J0711067L at a cost of £2.20 + vat each. When they arrive coat them with a very thin layer of vaseline inside and the metal bar/rod. Very thin! Now start to refit the bracket and the retaining clip. Be Careful making sure that the white plastic guide fits correctly over the large alloy arm on the top of the gearbox. Once done, then push the alloy arm downwards and when you leave go its should pop back up on its own. Therefore not stiff anymore. If you are at this point and all is well then brilliant. Refit the gear cable swivel joints back onto the knuckles. For the left one I used a hammer to knock a screwdriver (upside down) so the handle pushes the joint back together. The other one I squeezed back together with large pliers. Once done just revisit and test the return to centre of the gearstick in the car. If all is fine then put the battery box back on and refit the battery. The light bulb moment came once I disconnected the swivel gearbox cables. At that point it allowed me to form the opinion that it was the bearbox arm and not in the car and the spring being tired. Hope this cheap fix has been some help for someone before you start to consider more expensive issues.

Still doing plenty of miles in the Yeti, but no chance to use the Audi due to lockdown situations. So just done a deal for something which could well get me banned from Briskoda (if it weren't for the Yeti). However, it's not for my use, it's for the girlfriend so she can get shot of her lease / Motability car (for the daughter).

Well, I went for it at the weekend. Two freezing cold days on the drive. I could have squeezed it into the garage but I'd not have that much room around it and it would still have been freezing. I pulled the driveshafts as it looked like it would make life easier. I had a polybush set for the arms I was saving for Spring, but since I had to pull so much of the same stuff I figured I might as well do it once, so another reason to get more working room. I dicked about with the drop links for too long before deciding the hexes were too worn and ended up grinding them off and nipping out for new ones. The wipers took about an hour to get off. Couldn't lever them off, get a puller in or manipulate the arm free. Large tools to put pressure on the back side and a gentle tap of the shaft finally worked. Then the last top mount captive 'nut' decided to become uncaptive and took another hour with help from my brother, who then lent a hand with removing the arms. That pretty much ended day 1 with stripping it. About 6 hours work with three hours of faffing. Old spring was broken very near the edge of the seat. https://flic.kr/p/2kvCyv2

probably because they cant give a cost as it woll depend on how much the customs etc tallies on whats inside the order

I'd earth it to a suitable point on the chassis. That's how the originals would have been wired in. As for the light switch, I believe it's pin 5 on the light switch to connector A, pin 21 on the BCM

Here are some quick pictures of the new Philips LED H4. I have an old Philips bulb for comparison. The new one is much smaler and it doesnt need an external box. The new one does have a fan on it, and on one of the bulbs its so loud that you notice it if the engine is of. Here are comparison of low beams, Philips LED(right) and and Osram halogen 120%(left) Low beam with led on both sides: High beams, Philips LED on right side and Osram halogen 120% on left side: High beam both sides LED: Even tho i locked camera to same settings it stil makes the differense seem smaler than it is to the eye. Maybe it would have been better if i took the pictures outside instead of in the garage, but its narly weather so meh. I went to the parkinglot of the local supermarket and adjusted the low beams with the tape-on-wall trick and then headed out for a long drive. After one hour of driving with these ledbulbs i did not get flashed bo oncoming trafic. They light up alot more than the halogens i tried so far and im really happy with them.

Window regulators always go in mk1 fabias, my car's the same. I've gotten good at finessing the button to use them or I just put the key in the door to put them both up or down. For the cigarette lighter it could just be a blown fuse or the connection on it is loose. Mine never worked and I only recently noticed its fuse was gone, works fine now. You'd be amazed what some interior cleaner and few hours of scrubbing can do to refresh an old interior, if you're ever in Asda get the carplan 2 in 1 upholstery shampoo, i've had great results with it. My cars starter sometimes drags too. Might be one of the connections like Wino said because both the old and the one I replaced it with did it.

I have replaced all the interior lights with these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079GPKQDB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 no error codes for the interior. I have also used them on the number plate lights but they needed coding. Fitted superskoda wing mirror puddle lights and boot lights as they are super bright.

Swap it for a Yeti?

Unless you have north of 200 bhp the 288's are really all the brakes you need on a Fabia because it's quite a light car. If it's R.I.C.E you like then knock yourself out. Ricer.

The oil won't get very hot in this situation, because the engine will be doing very little work. Do a search; this question about what oil temperature you should not exceed, or similar, comes up quite regularly.

Charging occurs when the car wants it to. On older cars the alternator runs continuously and is always charging. Newer cars can effectively switch this off so the alternator doesn’t charge unless needed, reducing the load on the engine. When it does charge, it can do at a much higher rate and present a bigger load on the engine (thus charging the battery faster). So when you brake the alternator can present a bigger load on the engine to help slow you down and also charge the battery. Ideally it will only need to charge when you’re braking if you’re doing stop start driving. On longer journeys it will need to charge whilst driving at steady speed. Modern batteries are also more tolerant - they can cope with the car discharging the battery further (so it can longer with the alternator off), and also cope with being charged at a higher rate (so charge up more quickly when you brake). It all helps.

It's the Bridgestone tyres they are crap In the cold weather and on snow my dad got them on his SE L 1.5 DSG

The car will warn you. (Just as long as the warnings are not broken. Un-coded maybe because you were messing about touching stuff you do not understand.) If it gets to 170*oC in the UK in the Summer on a track then be sure to come into the pits and open the bonnet and let it cool down. (keep the engine running.) It will cool it's self even if you switch off, that is why the Coolant shows at 90*oC, that is the coolant, and the oil is a coolant, and the fans will run and the pumps pump. If you have the correct oil in and the correct amount and get it to 115*oC at this time of the year in Kent i would be concerned. For you keeping your licence. Maybe your Octavia 1.5 TSI 150 PS will be better with 0w-30 FS in for your trips on the Continent. But then you have a Warranty from the Czech / German car maker, so maybe stick with the recommended VW508 , so 0w 20 FS IV. And have the Servicing done at a VAT Registered place using the Factory Approved Fluids and Parts.

Welcome to the forum.

Probably spent far too much time thinking about this relay, but thanks to everyone for their help

I just looked on the GLS (Czech) site at the package cost calculator tool and Ireland was listed but UK isn't. No idea what's going on. https://gls-group.eu/CZ/cs/prilezitostna-preprava/kalkulacka

Definitely not going to do it every week haha, but will try, thanks! I recently bought the car, dirt in there seems to scratch the window a little at this point, so will try to clean it asap!

You only have to accept it if the cars was not prepped for winter as many are not. Lots of manufacturers vehicles can be issue free, with Skoda it can be a common issue. So many just run the car in winter as they do anytime, Tyre pressures never checked, washer fluid not topped up with strong enough winter screen wash, the coolant / Anti freeze / corrosion inhibitors strength unknown etc.

The procedure needed to 'reset' is in the topic shown here. I did the reset and it didn't seem to have much effect. I have to admit that I did nothing further but the heater seems better now. It's now winter and it does warm the cabin satisfactorily - which is good enough for me. Maybe, at the time, it simply wasn't cold enough to get the heater to get particularly hot.

Interesting- thanks for that. So a fill up probably sensible first step. The rear air con is cooler than the passenger side, but not as cold as the drivers side when all are set on 16 degrees; so could be preferential for the driver. Thanks

From when I had mine, Engine: 2.0 TDi 150 Type: Scout Mileage: 127k Cambelt/waterpump changed 1 time 6 Speed Manual 2 x Haldex oil change, Brake fluid Any other major work done? New Aircon compressor, normal servicing regimes, new battery, KESSY remotes literally ate batteries!

It’s has one AC system. It controls the temp on either side and rear if fitted by using control valves and flaps. Your probably hearing one of the motors on a flap cycling when you start the car. It may be sticking and transferring the cold air to the other vents. the other thing to note is that a lot of systems are set to prioritise the driver when they are running low on gas, and run reduced cooling to the other zones.

Absolutely..Gave the Kopchec parts a miss. Went for some OSRAM buibs at 8.99UKP from ebay for a pack of two. The interior lighting is now awesome. FYI - you need three packs of the above if you do thw whole car (6 bulbs)

And DPF soot ash values

Ye, you've got to have a flashing red light. On previous posts alot of people were fitting 2032s.

I didn't put anything on mine. Still OK to remove. Better than vaseline, I would recommend graphite powder. Since this is a dry lubricant, it will prevent dust and dirt from sticking to the vaseline...

Something like that ? But be careful, the cabin filter is in the wrong direction in this video. The arrow shall point from top to bottom.

I think MY16 cars (Octavias) were all fitted with MIB2? Note MY16 cars started production summer 2015, so even a car with a 15 or 65 plate may be an MY16 and have an MIB2 system.

Happened to me. Replaced all the aux belt tensioners and pulleys when getting the timing belt replaced and it went away.

Unless they airfreight the goods then they have to create an Indirect Export Declaration ie a T2 movement as part of a less than container movements ie a multiple parts shipment and compiling all the customs documentation for this has gone from virtual zero to a massive trail of paperwork. was glad I got my tail-fin exported from CZ well before BREXIT and the additional cost over the goods cost was less than £20 I recall. They need a proper EU agent now really as buying these sorts of goods from EU countries has become much more complex and the Fast Parcel Operators, particular some of them, have incredibly demonstrated they were nowhere near ready to so EU to UK shipments and this has resulted in goods delays of day and weeks and large demands for money, extra customs fees, customs duty and import VAT. Might settle down in a few weeks but expect to see extra fees displayed on consignments to the UK as Superskoda cannot just use EU Acquisition and VAT rules and have to obey the customs export and import customs rules.

Whatever was there 5 years ago is probably superseded anyway It is a shame @the_worrier have only worn 2 tyres (which is why I always suggest a front-back swap around 13k -14k miles), as I would have said replace the original summer tyres by all seasons It really depends on what you want, a summer tyre that is hard and Eco (useless in cold rain & snow), a sporty summer tyre for spirited drives (also useless in cold, and won’t last as long) or something that will get you home whatever the weather (an all season). My current suggestions are Goodyear vector 4 season generation 3, or Continental all season contact. If you have obscure wheel size then Vredestein Quatrac Pro If you pick a summer tyre, it’s rating will be based on a temperature of 20+c so rating is irrelevant in winter months where you will often find wet grip falls off dramatically below +10c and can be dreadful below +5c. Do you really want to be on a wet salted motorway at -2c (or colder) with virtually no grip

You'll only lose the time and trip mileages, all fault lights on startup will go out within a hundred yards or so.

I tow a Bailey Jive with a manual 1.4 TSI 150PS. It copes just fine...

size doesn't matter, friction does. i'd put money on my car out braking your leon.

It might well be a future classic but it'll tank in value for the first 10yr like any other mainstream model. £40k for a Yaris! Unless you desperately want to be the one and only owner in the book wait 18 months and pick it up for £25k if not lower.

That is the secondary lock that prevents the bonnet from flying up if the primary catch is not engaged or releases, you need to get access to the cable and pull the outer, it runs along or possibly under the slam panel to the NS inner wing, if you can get the NS headlight out you might have the access you need, you should be able to get to the release lever but not sure about the knurled retaining nut, I no longer own a MK2 to go out and have a look at. Suggestion to access the starter motor or even the alternator is a good idea.

It’s most likely grit and dirt caught in the weather strip on the outside. Put the window down and use a cloth with some all purpose cleaner or shampoo from your wash bucket to clean it along the entire width of the channel (from mirror to pillar). I do this every week when cleaning the car, but I’m slightly weird so that might be overkill.

After New Spar plugs NGK BKR7EIX-11 IRIDIUM I still fit misfires on cylinder 1 and 2. Now Just Got New Bosch coil plugs for Audi R8 latest revision 06E 905 115 G Didn't drive much but for now it seems problem solved. Will test more in upcoming dys to be sure. Hope that's iz. Badger5 reccomends that coil also.

@benbro I think you are concentrating on the snow performance of the winter/all season tyres. The NZ climate is perfect for all seasons unless you are driving a sports car in summer. It's definitely taking on board what @SurreyJohn says and maybe spend an hour on youtube watching reviews. TyreReviews is particularly good.

Okay, so a year (nearly) on and the Audi is being sold. I did a shade over 500 miles in the time I owned it, so realistically it's dead money. Considering it costs £500 a year to tax and insure before it even turns a wheel I can't justify keeping it when I have better things to spend my money on. So, watch this space for the next chapter..

Small brakes with very powerful calipers will overheat, so size does matter.

I think it doesn't matter if it's 1.6 or 2.0 the important thing is when you speed up. Have the feeling that you will stay at a safe distance. I just come to here 3 month ago I have no experience snow and so much rain have on the road. My last two mk3 1.6 tdi seat leon increased to powers over 200 hp and both car brakes upgrade 340mm.