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The difference about Park, is selecting P on the flat or on a slope. Apply the Parking Brake / E-Brake before selecting 'P' / Park, and do not leave a vehicle held by the Pawl on a slope. It has been this way as long as there has been Auto boxes / DSG's etc.

Sounds like whatever way you're parking is letting the car roll onto the parking pawl, hence the clunk. It's not an issue in itself. To test, when you park up, put the car in park and turn it off, then release the footbrake. You should hear the handbrake wind on as soon as you turn the car off. This should ensure the handbrake does the holding rather than the park pawl, unless you have the auto hold turned off?

Hey, this guy from Croatia tested the red ocravia rs with eibach spacers fitted - in my opinion it looks really good. Link: He has nice RS videos...

This one is lowered with Eibach springs and has front spacers 10 mm per wheel and back spacers 15 mm per wheel.

Some did have rear discs.

I thnk so but it's getting on for 5 years since we traded in that car. We certainly do on both the current Karoq and Yeti, both fitted with 7 pin coded electrics. With respect to your comment about ASC, probably more commonly referred to as ESP now but I remember it as ASC from my old Mk5 Golf; what you describe is more akin to the function of XDS. My understanding of ASC / ESP is that it provides a measure of yaw control via the car's brakes.

My 2016 2.0 tdi manual states it's always active in reverse with a 5% slope that is really not alot by all accounts. I notice it activating going up into my driveway from a road.

The second Tiguan, the one where I was present when it was coded was a 7 pin. The third one was 13 pin. I'm pretty sure that with dedicated electrics, the rear brakes wouldn't have been working overtime when the ASC thought the car was sliding around. No such wear was experienced on the second or third Tiguans, even when towing a larger 8 x5 trailer.

You should never have the car holding on the gearbox parking pawl on its own, without the handbrake being on. When parking, the handbrake should be applied before selecting park, and when setting off you should select drive before releasing the handbrake, or just use the autohold system.

Does my show?

Love how it looks without the lettering. Less is more. [img]https://clickpix.org/images/Z49EGJ.jpg[/img] Simply clever

good idea re the fuses, i will do that. i've also called out the AA man, see what they can do.

Loved reading this thread @DeanVRS20VT. Got things dried out and have managed to get time to strip the door down. There was more of the panel film there than I thought there would be, but it was torn in two. The window regulator was swapped out last year and as you can see from some of the photos with blue arrows there is wet that's caused some of that replacement to corrode. The cable near the red cable tie with the blue arrow was wet, and to the right of it I appear to be missing a clip. I'm going to see if I can get replacements, not convinced sealing it up will make much of a difference though. Suppose the best approach would be to seal it then put a hose on the car before I reassemble the door? Only other thing I wasn't sure on was whether there should have been something in the hole toward the top of the door where the arrow is.

It says next to the relevant pictures in my post. Me too! It's mainly because of your help which is greatly appreciated. I do not know who they were, but apparently they didn't mind too much about brake performance...

So its fairwell from me guys im over on audi now (order placed) and my octavia has gone because of the danger with this stalling whilst driving and cant risk with other people in the car, truly gutted as its one of the best looking and practical cars i have ever had but the issues are just to much of a joke, these cars should never of been sold until they knew there was no issues, wish u all the best of luck and hope you get your cars sorted soon

Brilliant, A genuine big thanks. The link is still valid March 2021.

. It does, doesn't it? And not least because the blokes who fit it won't be going anywhere near a Scotchlok. .

They look like BBS but may be replicas.

Agreed - not normal. As a matter of course, It could a couple of things that come to mind: 1) The DSG gearbox oil is low or the gearbox oil/filter is dirty. This may be affecting the action of the control actuators. It will cost you an DSG oil change £215. 2) The control module is slowly failing (bad). Is the delayed action just between Reverse and Forward? You should have a DQ250 box if I remember right. 3) The DSG control selector position sensors are slowly failing - its taking longer than expected pick up an electronic signal to say that the gearbox needs to change gearing according to the selector position. Agreeded with @e-Roottoot - what is your driving style and what kind of mileage have you done?

Seeing as how there are a couple of recent posts from different Octavia types about a sudden worsening of consumption I thought I might suggest something a bit different from the others (very plausible) suggestions. A lot of people just set and forget the climate control A/C so it is on all the time, and there is nothing wrong with that. However climate control A/C also controls humidity and I'm just thinking that if the weather has changed from just cold, to wet and cold, then the A/C might be operating both heating and cooling to reduce the humidity which would increase consumption.?? I've not experienced this in the UK myself (none of my UK cars had A/C 40 years ago) but relate it to an occasion when I got my worst open road consumption in unusual local (South Australia) conditions in my 1.4tsi Octavia. It was very overcast but hot (32 deg C) and very high humidity and very uncomfortable so naturally I had the manual A/C on (not climate control) but even on the lowest fan setting it made the inside of the car far too cold. So I had to put the heater on as well to offset the cold air and the combination meant my average consumption plummeted by over 10mpg for that specific 250km journey which I had done many times before in all sorts of weather conditions without the punitive results.

Not normal, or a characteristic or really something that needs to be happening, attention needed someplace with the DSG. So what miles done and has there been any Warranty Work required or Servicing / Updates?

Read this..... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/482774-honeycomb-grill-install/

I could have a go at repairing it if you can be without it for a few days? PM me if interested.

NO valves.

20-30 miles less really explains nothing if you are not saying how much fuel that is used. What is that based on, as in how many litres are being used. How far car the can go on 1 litre or 4.46 litres (or maybe 45 litres), so a gallon or 10 gallon is all that really matters for where you drive and how you drive.

Replaced the air filter today. Seems to have done the trick. I feel like an idiot The car had 60000km service 3000km before I bought it, around 12months ago. Just after the Australian bushfires. I presumed they replaced it at the time, given Sydney had some of the worst pollution in the world over that time. Wasn't until I bought the new one that realised how bad the old was. There is no chance it had been replaced. I had assumed it was some fandangled fancy Skoda filter. F##k Skoda dealer mechanics!!!!!!! My car is never going to a dealer mechanic.

Same issue. I just pulled them off, cleared off the old adhesive from inside the seal, cleaned the mating surface of the wheel arch (front and back) and used a good bead of gutter sealant i had spare in the 'hollow' of the seal. Simply pushed back on firmly, which sends the bead of sealant up the inner and outer edge of the arch lip. They should have been done at factory like this, the adhesive on the oem part is rubbish. They will certainly not be coming off again! A good cheap (free) fix. I wouldn't personally bother replacing the parts, they will just come loose again. Save your £40+ and just clean up and refit the originals with some good adhesive sealant.

Why is the sky blue. Is that some sort of strange Scottish weather phenomenon?

The manufacturer of the battery does not matter. You need to make sure it is coded as fleece for AGM batteries, that it is set at the correct amps for the battery spec and just alter the serial number by one digit to tell the ecu a new battery has been installed.

Wherever you take it for a service, ask for a printout of the service record.

It is only Skoda UK, VW UK, SEAT UK and Audi UK that is handing out that "5 years replacement" requirement or advice about the cam belt on these EA211 engines, the official workshop manuals point out that it is a "belt for life" (of the belt?) and after so many years, maybe 6 or 7 years, the belt should be examined in place along its entire length annually, and replaced as soon as damage is observed. So, with that in mind, maybe revise your thinking over changing it right now, I plan to get it replaced at 7 or 8 years as that will mean only replacing it once within our ownership, I certainly do not intend on leaving it until it is showing signs of damage. That is just my thinking on this subject as my wife's car, an August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, has only run 33K miles from new, others might feel happier to replace at the 5 year point and walk away from worrying about a belt failure that would cause severe engine damage, I have been checking the inlet variable pulley every year from year 4 service, so checking the belt along its length does not take much more effort while I am servicing the car. VW Group, and maybe other brands dealership's workshops, or service point, are also a bit guilty of handing out "your belt must be replaced before an MOT because the engine is rev'd to the rev limiter a few times during the MOT, it is the law!" - I had heard that this is said, but only got it said to me once, to which I answered, "this car does not have a DERV engine" to which the answer was "sorry my mistake".

Thanks! That’s a shame, I might be sent home soon but even if I am I’m still glad I have the car. It’s a massive indulgence but to our bitter cost as a family we learned that tomorrow isn’t a promise a week before Christmas and thus I wasn’t going to miss another one and even if I just stare at it and know the keys are in my hall that’ll do me. The car is like new all over, in person it’s perfect, there literally isn’t a mark on it anywhere, inside or out. I suspect the prep for that review wasn’t as well done as it could have been as Marshall’s presented the car to me exactly as a new car should be presented, never mind a year old one. It’s much better than the Octy! The Diesel engine is still a bit gruff when it’s working but starting up and at idle it’s much more refined. I know from fitting cameras to these cars how much more sound deadening is in them vs the Octy and its a huge improvement.

The software version error can be cleared using VCDS or OBDeleven... No need for ODIS 👍

Titan blue + ceramic coating

You're having issues trying to get navigation working on a retrofitted Amundsen. The way this works on a stock system is the headunit checks the SD card CID is valid. The CID is basically like a serial number that's programmed into the SD card which is designed to be one time programmable and unchangeable. This means you have three choices to get nav working (as far as I'm aware), you can either: - use a genuine Skoda/VW SD card - use a non-genuine Skoda/VW card with the CID changed to match a genuine card (only works on very specific SD cards!) - hack the headunit to accept all SD card CID's I believe you're trying to use a non Skoda/VW SD card? This won't work unless you either change the CID or hack the headunit... The second question is how did you get component protection removed? If a dealer did it, there is a good chance navigation won't work as a dealer can only activate features listed against your VIN which won't include navigation. Obviously if this is a hacked headunit then this shouldn't be an issue.

No specific interval for water pump, but always use the correct anti freeze as some pumps will fail with the wrong type on certain models and as said you will soon know when the chain needs to be looked at, my only advice is keep your oil changed every year and only before this if you go over the mileage interval, this keeps the chain and engine parts in in good condition

Might be a good idea to contact Skoda and see what they know about the car. I believe they have a full record of a car's service history if they have serviced it. Any dealer should have access to this info. (Assuming Skoda have serviced it.)

It doesn't need anything, the mechanic was 'trying it on' to see if you'd wear it. Avoid.

Legally spaced the rear plate and put it on 19" VRS wheels. Much as the 20s were forged and technically brilliant, the style was a bit marmite. Legally spaced the rear plate and put it on 8j 19" et45 octavia VRS wheels with pirellis. Much as the 20s were forged and technically brilliant, the style was a bit marmite, these are a lot more oem obviously (even though I don't believe technically ever offered on the superb)

Easy option is to simply keep your old lights, Put them back and on for MOT day, Job done. Your other option is to split the lights like others have done in the past and swap the components.

I've got the 1.8 and whilst the 1.4 is a good engine the 1.8 is in a different league. It has double injectors so it does not suffer from carbon on the valves, it is still a EA888 Gen3 engine, same as the vRS, Golf R or Audi S3 but slightly less capacity, smaller turbo and a lot less stressed. Only down-side is you still get the DQ200 Dry DSG7 and 180bhp is a lot for that gearbox. I would go manual or if you can find one go 1.8 4x4 and get the DQ250 DSG6 which is bulletproof

Check to see if there are any stones/obstructions in and around it, on my last car a Yeti, the accelerator pedal had to be replaced within a short time as a small stone had worked its way into an empty space in the pedal. The pedal basically broke and the car literally limped home. These cars are I think drive by wire rather than a direct connection to the throttle but it certainly shouldn't behave like that, definitely needs checked out by a garage.

Mine's the Toledo and no rust issues. It does affect the Toledo too as the Rapid with the water in the door problems, reportedly the rear doors but I had a problem with my passenger front. It had about a cupful held in there. Can confirm that they do spray a cavity wax in the doors near the base, I reckon it was that in the drain holes blocking the one.

The part numbers are - 1U0867260C - side of trim clips 1U0867260D - base of trim clips They are about a fiver each from the dealer, if you can't find a pattern part with a part number search

I've had good dealings with the following company - https://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/ ususally just type reg in or select make, model & spec etc and will normally give options for nearly every clip on the car!

I did replace window seals but had to remove door card and loosen the wing mirror. But you can put a 10mm wide and 2mm-4mm thick strip of adhesive closed cell neoprene foam tape on the outside in the seal, behind the brushes, to press them towards the window. The strip is not visible unless you look very closely, and might provide enough pressure to clean the window fully. The driver side window was smashed during a break-in under previous owner of my vRS, and no matter how much you straighten the metal parts afterwards, the window would not seal fully at high speeds until I put that extra neoprene foam tape (on top of a new set of seals). Until then I had extra wind noise above ~110mph, quite annoying on autobahn trips.

I think there might be two types of clip, depending on position on the door. Search for part number 1U0 867 260. I've sourced these on skoda-parts.com previously.

At last and after a long break - here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( February, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams February, 2021.zip

I have no idea where you're getting your figures from but my Map is custom ( changes to AFR/ injection cycles / boost pressure) I know this was done because I saw it, this was also backed up by 7 dyno runs over the space of 3.5 hours this cost is nowhere near £1000+ infact it wasn't even half that. It might be worth being better informed before commenting. Tuning boxes have their place (for me that place is the bin) but each to their own and sometimes it might make sense. To the OP The point of the original post was about longevity really, if you want something reliable long term(not saying tuning boxes can't be) and getting the absolute best go for a remap, ideally one designed on the dyno for you from someone who knows what their doing with a solid reputation. Mines a different engine but running 230/450nm covering many thousand miles now and it's fine my MPG went up, it's a better car to drive and loads of fun.