Leaderboard

Late to the party again.... missed earth day too :( Hint set reminders on calendar, add alert. So March... 300 trees, here are your trees -> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=607aa701fdf35d5e57ae5c82 Due to a bug in the ecologi site I can't do the UK tree draw/assignment. However we did get 10 trees as part of a bug bounty This means that next month, someone will 'win' a UK tree. By win I mean, it will be yours in a virtual sense. So each month I'll add one of these UK trees, £3.55 at the time of writing to our monthly pot. Each month I'll randomly mention a freedom member whose tree this is very loosely assigned to. I cant' actually alter the tree on the ecologi site; a feature request logged, so it will just have to be a here and now mention. Although if I was smart, I'd make it a table in the first post More on that next month. Now I did miss earth day... I had grand plans! For his month, so what's left of April, any purchase of a clump of trees: I'll match from our advertising/sponsors pot(not freedom). So your 25 becomes our 50, and I'll tag them as yours I know the pubs have opened; saw my first queue of 2021. Anyhow, a clump of trees is less than a pint, and you don't have to queue up for it Thank you for your support.

Send me that driver's side circuit board, I may well be able to fix that. PM me in the morning.

Wood mouse from todays walk

So a final update to the thread... Today we fitted the new (second hand) replacement ABS pump / module (MK60EC1) to my 2011 petrol VRS Octavia. We obtained the module code from the existing module using an autoscan with VCDS before removal. Fitment wasn't overly strait forward with the biggest issue being fitting the brake hoses onto the replacement module without cross threading. We had an issue with the back top hose engaging with the module thread and felt quite tight. It did leak a little but final tightened it enough for it to stop. Run through the re-coding on the new module using VCDS which went fine and now all warning lights have finally gone out with great relief. I want to thank everyone who contributed to the thread particularly Langers2k and Wino.

It happens with various models. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/416477-cracked-panoramic-roof-update http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483672-panoramic-roof-crack http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/474300-panoramic-roof-crack

Hi from Slovakia 😊 first Skoda here, had BMW before Škoda Superb 3, 8/2017, 2.0 TDI, 140KW, L&K

Functionally? Probably not much, Morally? Massively... Carista, OBDeleven, Ross-tech and VCP are creating, updating and supporting their own product. It takes money and resource to keep these things working as VAG change protocols/modules. When buying a genuine version of any of these tools, you're effectively helping that company survive, profit and continue supporting/developing their product in to the future. When genuine, I don't mind which interface people use, they all have pros/cons. A cloned version is someone stealing the hard-work and investment that one of these companies have made, reproducing and then selling it for their own profit. That's where the difference lies. Even more so when they claim their cloned version is genuine as they did with you Ross-tech and others have certainly have done lots of reverse engineering to understand the VAG protocols, I'm not sure if they have any insider knowledge or have purchased an official dealer tool to figure it out. I expect the latter as they tend to play catch up and the next VCDS version will add support for newer vehicles. I certainly wouldn't class it as a 'hacker' product. I believe that some 3rd party diagnostic companies have used Ross-techs label files in the past which is why they are now encrypted. I'm not sure if Carista, OBDeleven or VCP have ever been accused of this but I expect there will always be a degree of copying and reverse engineering between these companies. It's always easier to copy... You also need to remember that VCDS is primarily a diagnostic tool, the fact we can change coding and adaptions which makes enabling various hidden features or retrofits possible is pure luck As you may have seen, VAG are introducing ways to prevent any none-dealer tool from changing things with SFD tokens. Hopefully Ross-tech can come up with a solution to this, I know other companies are although they are of questionable legality and my be short lived. That I agree with completely The one touch functions are terrible in my opinion and destined to mess up many cars given the lack of checks! A well written set of instructions are much better, if nothing else, it should be clear when something isn't matching which is a sign to stop

I haven't noticed this topic so far so please excuse me if it's already been mentioned. Has anyone ever removed the rear seats or at least the squab so that the back can lay flat? Cheers Simon

Blimey, I can’t remember the last time I posted anything meaningful here, so firstly sorry! This feels a bit odd as I don’t know many of you guys these days but for those that are around from a few years back... sorry! I guess I’ve been away for a while, but not without a Skoda.... until now. For nearly 10 years I’ve enjoyed our Octavia Scout, it’s simply been the best car I’ve ever had. Our family grew up with it, it took us to amazing events and on life changing holidays. It never broke down and was the only car to ever get off our 15% street in the winter snows but this last year it has hardly moved. like many I’m sure, this last year had been a challenge and a change. The mantra of “stay at home” really meant that for our family. So with 3 cars across our family doing nothing we have taken the decision to let the newest/biggest two go to new homes and this sadly means the Scout has departed. It’s not “good by”, but more of an update on my absence/silence! It’s highly likely that we’ll have another Skoda before too long (thoughts at the minute are Fabia again or Citigo if the lack of travel continues) but for now it’s a Skodaless home. Take care folk

Never would be my answer seeing how virgin like mine was after 82K miles.

All TPS sales staff are working from home since a long time, in normal times they spent 99% of their time dealing with phone orders, it was only people non trade people like myself and the taxi drivers that would ever go to the trade counter, they dont(or didn't) mind dealing with me because I knew exactly what I needed, gave the part numbers & could confirm the suffix numbers if there were different trim colours for instance. Tthe taxi drivers in general were a real pain in the backside for them but were tolerated because they were businesses and collectively made up a big market, they knew that they were buying the parts & paying Fred in a shed cash to fit them, Fred not wanting anyone to know he was moonlighting would not have an account with them and would have bought the cheapest parts on the internet, so they accept the walk in taxi drivers, I would phone my orders & have them delivered or collect if it was urgent, they always sold to me under either "Generic trade counter sales" or "Generic Taxi" I reckon at the end of this like many businesses they will continue with sales staff working from home and closed doors to the warehouse so as not to have to put up with the great unwashed walking in. Now is perhaps the time to get a foot in the door if the dealers parts counters are closed and to try and build a relationship to remain with them, in my branch its them that do the relationship building because that is what you should do to retain customers.

Wheels look clean 😉

Hi all! I've just been trying to recode the '3C Lane Assist' controller. And... Gooooood news ! It seems to work! At least I don't get anymore fault code on both '3C Lane Change ' and '10 Park/Steer Assist' controllers! I even can tick/untick all boxes (Lane Assist / Blind Spot Detection / Rear Traffic Assist) from the steering wheel without any biiip (error like). Thus, here is what I've done: First, I recoded the 3C Controller with its original coding 02012103. Then I made a FIRST scan. There I started to get cold sweat, since I still had the fault code on '10 Park/steer Assist' Controller and on top of that, though I had recoded the '3C Lane Change' controller, I had a new fault code saying it was NOT coded... Gasp... Very disappointed. I even thought I had made a mess! I cleared all fault codes. Then I've made a SECOND scan: Oooh?!? No fault code anymore on both '3C Lane change' and '10 Park/Steer Assist' controllers. Hmmm... It starts smelling good! At this time, I tried to tick boxes from the steering wheel and... I could tick/untik all of them without any biiip or error message on the cockpit. Great!!! I than made a THIRD scan: Still no fault code, but... a "Park/Assist function temporarily unvailable" error message popped up on the cockpit... I already had this message sometimes and when I restarted the engine the error message disappeared... but not systematically... Well. I think that's it for today, since I have to wait for tomorrow to have a check drive and see if everything has come back to normal. Anyway at this time, I truly thank the VCDS support on their forum. I keep fingers crossed. I'll come back to you to give you the conclusion of this solution.

In my case I rang first, mentioned my local main agent was closed so could they help in any way (which they already knew) and the guy sorted me a click and collect. They did make it clear that when the dealer re-opens, then it was back to trade only. Hope it helps.

Hi Wino, I used the 'collar' tool that looks a bit like an orthopaedic knee brace, to draw the bearing in. It puts all the load on the shoulder behind the spring clip, so no pressure on the hub face and no load being put through the bearing itself.

I had this on mine (droning) so as a matter offcourse replaced as you did both rear wheel bearings as it sounded like that from previous experience........., made it "better" but not perfect. Anway tracked it down to the continental tyres in the end. You could try swapping front and rear wheels and see if that helps / changes the sound and maybe narrows it down. REF ABS fault, unfortunately there is far to many aftermarket hubs for ALL makes of cars and many of them simply do not work as advertised. Messing with the sensor probably won't do much, the fault will be latched and most likely needs A) plugging in to see what the fault is and b) clearing it if its not a current fault.

iV indeed has a sound generator, because it is a hybrid. If I remember correctly there is a legal requirement for electric cars to have sound generator. Also electric Citigo should have it. I can confirm that eUp has it and is really annoying, because it has poor sound insulation.

Thank you so much for that! I had tried eBay searches whilst racking my brains to recall what the name of the damned thing was and without anything turning up. I shall send away for one of those later on now that I know what I'm looking for!

From a meander around our local pond this evening: Greater spotted woodpeckers are nesting in the trees over on the left too. They're still a tad shy of being photographed though. Gaz

I wonder if the person that swapped that capacitor has damaged the pad that the positive terminal goes to? I'll just make a little demo of a possible fix for you and post a photo.

The surround clips on the grill doesnt ,i think ,plenty of info on the site about replacement grills

Bumper off job ,believe the grill is plastic welded in place

@Patrician, I have made DIY tutorial on how to repair electric struts. Even if your struts are working well at the moment, then it’s wise to maintain/repair them as I did and you don’t have to deal with this issue never again.

Try this post. Thanks, AG Falco

628- currently own that in Shropshire

You only need to remove them once or twice a decade so dont commit too much time, money or headspace to it, cutting a slot with a hacksaw or dremel is the quickest way to get back to the real challenges in life. And yes, I know the service schedule says the element should be changed more often but my remarks are based on 15 years and 250000 miles of experience, if you keep a weather eye on the fuel consumption display you will soon know if it ever may need inspecting.

If the heads are corroded or chewed up just cut a slot in them for a flat screwdriver using a Dremel?

Aircon pipes run the same side doesn’t matter if it’s left hand drive or right hand drive, easiest way is it’s the left hand side of the car 👍

Koni fsd or bilstein b6 are your best bet. From what I've seen the fsd will be more comfortable (but still an improvement) and the b6 will last longer.

Great updates, colour looks incredible on those photos!

mine works great remembering driver keys, i dont have to mess with seat buttons anymore, positions are saved on key.

FYI previous post from earlier this year.

Hi Wino The window switch on the front passenger door ( single switch ) Lift the switch up window goes down. ( Passenger window only operates ) Push the switch down window goes up'( passenger window only operates ) The switch on the front drivers door (double switch ) If you sit in the drivers seat. The left part of this switch operates passenger window only Lift up window goes down. Push down window goes up. The right side of this switch operates drivers window only Lift up window goes down Push down windows goes up. Both rear door windows operate manually on my vehicle. If you lock or unlock the drivers door with the key If you hold the key against the locked position both passenger and drivers door windows go down If you hold the key against the open position both passenger and drivers windows go up. As Edbostan said I can get used to this. Hope this helps. Rob

And I’ll keep this as a track wheels vw (borbet) take five wheels 17x7 et38

Hi thanks for that, I'll give that a go later, I've been trying to start it like my other older octavia and you just flick it on the starter position and it cranks straight away, I'm glad I asked on here otherwise the dealership would have thought I was a right fool... 🤔🙈😂 You guys were right, seems like it's working the way its supposed to, it just seemed a bit strange compared to my mk2, thanks everyone 👍

No sign of MM93 throwing his bike at marshals in free practice and under a double waved yellow then?

Now that is good thinking.

7 speed dry box is DQ200 only fitted to engines under 250Nm torque, so only 1.4tsi, 1.6tdi or 1.5tsi engines in the Superb. 7 speed wet box fitted in cars with 4x4 I think, 6 speed wet box in 150ps diesel until iirc sometime around 2018, then changed to 7 speed wet box. Some 7 speed wet boxes after around 2018 went to 80,000 mile oil change as opposed to standard 40,000 mile. There is a table somewhere on the forum showing this information all in greater detail and clarity. Perhaps someone can point it out.

I guess it's personal preference. It's just fine for me. I don't need a subwoofer in the car that will just make everything rattle.

I understand the need to lower your insurance costs, not sure I'd try to get around it that way though. Insurance companies being what they are with their reluctance to pay out, always been 100% honest with ours, just not worth the risk of them finding out . Surely if you say you live in NI, have a bump in Southern Ireland , you'd have to prove residency in NI? Council tax form / utilities bill etc?

Yes, I mean small spare wheel. Not sure about the full size wheel though. In my opinion there is not enough space there to fit the full size one at all.

@SashaGrace @Bap33 I like the appearance, but I'd not order a new car in (anything) green; I actively prefer yellow, blue or red!

Looking closely at yours it definitely looks like the pivot is seized as the end of the bowden cable is loose instead of being against the spring loaded lever which looks stuck back.....

Yeah it is pretty close - fitting the tacho is easy. Coding it needs expertise. Track how much I spend? lol never, otherwise this page would never exist.

Yes - found a tacho with maxidot and replaced the original one. Yes - and still got plans in mind.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cx4etquhs1p33lc/IMG_20210404_133933_450.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/pw03juo3g4yb2cp/IMG_20210406_135731.jpg?dl=0

I've personally been polite with my dealer and haven't even hinted at not wanting the car (as I do, just not in the way it has been behaving), but whenever it is returned if even one error comes up I will instigate requesting a return...although my preference would be a swap for a zero mileage replacement...I am not paying the amount I am per month to have month upon month of going back and forth with issues. It is simply not the car that was advertised.

Right, four of a kind for the Green Machine today having remembered with about 0.15 of a mile to go and a parking space on left that was long enough to roll into and it to tick over just at end of it. First pic, then after a short wait....

Out of laziness and convenience I've always taken our cars to the hand wash place but we just got a nearly new black car for my other half ( i30 N line 1.4 t-gdi ) so I decided to start cleaning them myself to avoid the otherwise inevitable swirl marks. There's been a plus and minus to this as far as my car is concerned. It's never been so clean. I even clayed and waxed it today. However, I'm now aware of the state of the paint and wheels. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad for a 17 year old but it's a bit depressing discovering all those blemishes you never noticed and now have to worry about. still, scrubs up ok from 10ft.

Went to collect my new exhaust today. All good it seems. All the part numbers match ETKA. There were a few scratches on the tailpipe but they polished out fine. Taking it to be fitted Wednesday. just for information in case of people searching in future I'll list the part numbers below. Rear silencer - 1U0 253 609A centre silencer - 1J0 253 209Q clamp - 1K0 253 141M clamp - 357 253 141A