Leaderboard

It’s also had its first wash in 7 weeks and 1500 miles, got acquainted with the chips and handful of smart repairs that I need to sort out and I’m a bit disheartened to see one wheel starting to develop some white worm but I’ll see to that when I can.

I’d be fuming at the supplying dealer. Begs the question what else have the not done.

I don't know if I'm more embarrassed than angry at the moment

I was going to leave this till tomorrow but I’m too excited! Phases 1 and 2 of the ambient lighting project are now complete, first job was colour palette upgrade from 10 to 30 colours and the second job was the colour changing floor lighting to match the screens, doors and dash strips. More is to come but for now I’m super duper happy 😃

Dunno fellas but one of the hundred-odd search results in that link I posted must discuss the rear end, I'd've thought? Send a photo of the offending items to your respective dealerships and invite comment? Put the ball in their court, see if they're suitably embarrassed?

It's best if you leave everything assembled. Just remove the driveshaft nut and use the puller to start the driveshaft moving, then you can remove track rod end and bottom ball joint bolts. That way the hub is held solid while you get the driveshaft moving.

There are likely other customers out with new cars cursing Skoda. The dealer principal needs to check who did the PDI on the OP,s car and see what else they did and signed off. Then they should personally call each new owner to apologise and ask the owner to bring their car in to get checked and offer to pay for their time and fuel or they can send the Master Tech and the fitter out to check vehicles properly including wheel bolts, pressures and transport blocks as well as coolant and oil levels. Too many incompetents are working in dealerships and not being supervised.

Go angry; that's someone at the dealership not doing their job!!

Measure again in September Gaz, changing too early is both financially and environmentally wasteful.

Also check the tyre pressures. No car dealer I have purchased a car has ever got the correct tyre pressure. Most are massively over inflated. Sometimes it can also be the brand of tyre that is fitted that has a stiff tyre wall. However with all that being said and if everything else checks out okay. Don't forget you are comparing a brand new car to your old one that has suspension that is bed in and will now be softer than when new.

My neighbours tree looks rather vibrant against the stormy sky

That is your problem, tires are only for fitting to American cars and in exceptional circumstances to Audis and Vws sold on the North American continent. They should never be fitted to a Skoda which was never designed to work in America or run on tires. They wear terribly on roads with bends and even worse roundabouts which they are just not designed to tackle. When you get a decent set of tyres fitted get the car properly aligned on a Hunter rig (as said above) by someone known to be able to use it.

It's not at all unheard of for dealerships to fail to remove the 'transport blocks' from the suspension before delivery. Showing results for '"transport blocks"'. - BRISKODA

Some front wipers don’t work if the bonnet is open. I would check the bonnet is fully closed or not showing open on the maxidot

Just a final update from me. Got the car delivered yesterday. Ordered on the 5th of Jan... estate, petrol, DSG, DCC. 😍

Collection day has finally come around and I’m super stoked to be a Superb owner at last! I only grabbed a couple of pics as I was hoping it would be light and dry when I got home to take more but it was neither. Here it is on the forecourt It’s a MY2020 Facelift Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 190 DSG with the following options Exclusive Dragon Green paint Supernova wheels Virtual Pedal Reverse cam with washer Spare wheel Virtual Cockpit All of which put the list price at pennies under £40,000 which is nuts considering what I paid and the paltry 6560 miles it had when I collected it this morning. The 260 mile trip home was fabulous and I look forward to a much quieter build thread compared to my Octy as it has so much spec there is little to do, but I’ll be sorting a few things for sure! Badges are a start and some cool lighting mods too. More soon

I think they are a wonderful car and great value for the money and so reliable.

To be honest I'll be happy with that, It's a warranty where I can take it to any garage of my choice and then make the claim, I know that's a bit dangerous but it's a possible water pump failure so I'm not leaving it for them to tell me what to do. It's a warranty so I know it's going to be a fight!!

sure i can . will do tommorow morning .

I have it and run few scans, it's nothing fancy and i don't think you can do a lot of things with that. I will post some screenshots to help you but i think i would be better to go to a programmer after setting a new ECU.

Are you sure your fan pack hasn't died? It won't show an error (apart from the overheating) but will store a fault code. Would definitely expected to hear the fan running at 100°+ Edited to add: Taking it on a run will get air through the rad. Slow driving will show up the issue. Take it for a run and get the engine up to temperature. Pull over, keep the engine running and set the AC to LO. Does the fan kick in?

I've got the same one you have anewman, but it did splay out in use, would be better with some normal bolts that would sit down flat across the slots, where radius seat wheel bolts will only touch at a pair of points either side of the slot and allow the thing to distort under load. I managed to squeeze it back into the original shape in a big vice, then acquired such bolts for next time (which hasn't happened yet). Are the thread knackered? Doe sit just turn and turn without progressing? @TMB's one looks a better design, and good value.

T -Cross is closest you are likely to get to a direct replacement for the Yeti. Honda's new HR-V looks like another contender but is a bit bigger. Left field possibility I am looking at is new Honda Crosstar, slightly smaller outside but big inside. Hybrid drive system as well.

Hi all, I thought I did, but I did not ! Here is the final conclusion, I wanted to share: The recoding is OK. Lane Assist / Blind Spot Detection / Rear Trafic Assist are fully operating now! I haven't had any error message since that time. I also made a test with a carton box. The RTA works fine! Moby **** (yes, the small nickname I sometimes give to my Superb3, since it makes me think to a White Whale ) stopped on it own ~2" before hitting the box. Well everything is fine now and it didn't cost me a single €! Happy with it! The other good news, is that I don't need to upgrade my Micro-CAN VCDS to a HEX-V2 version, at least for a while!

The thread title reveals all! He is trying to push the driveshaft back from the hub, I would advise giving the force screw head the good news with a hammer but its more effective if the balljoints have not been removed, a kettle of hot water might help.

Water pump sleeve sticking.

It came from Airskinz, I got one for my Dad too. Just a wee bit lol 😂

Hi. There are and I have checked through all of them but can't find any that have the same message - driver assistance menus unavailable. Quite frustrating so hopefully it will be a sensor that is faulty. Remember the days when you set points and re balanced carbs. Seemed easier then! Thanks for responding 😊

Just offering up the lightbar to check I have the correct length mounting straps. I need to strip the lightbar down to check it over and make some changes inside so that the POLICE signs luminate.

This might be complete nonsense; what alessa wants to do is increase ground clearance, and the only way to do that with a wheel/tyre package is a larger rolling radius, which doesn't require lower diameter wheels.

That Thread title got me hooked straight away .... Anything that involves rough roads and im in !! Welcome to the forum and good to see an Italian without a Fiat ..! You wont regret a Mk1 Fabia vRS I went with this set up 4 months ago and it has made mine a right riot to drive - And it will handle the rough surfaces no problem https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/uprated/bc-racing-v1-series-coilovers/skoda/fabia.html As the lads have said above the standard TDI springs will give you that bit of extra clearance - Put in decent quality shocks while you are at it as I suspect that these will be shot with the car lowered which is causing her to hit the sump . Maybe 15" steel wheels with a taller profile tyre might help ? There might not be any call for a sump and tank gaurd just yet....!

I had not imagined it. I prefer to heighten all corners, but it's for consideration.

Maybe I must find someone the city to make some exchanges with It might be enough maybe, with this a small difference can make a big difference. I will create it to a project yes!

There's a lot of reasons the VRS doesn't do well on bad roads and mud. Dad has a standard SDI, and it's far better than my VRS on bad terrain. The VRS bumpers are lower, the wide, lower profile, tyres don't dig and grip like his 185's, but just scrabble on the surface instead.

It's rubber with gripper pads, really stops things like shopping bags sliding around.

I always replace at 3mm.

Well yes, but my other method of navigating rough roads is to be careful and drive on the side of the ruts rather than down the middle of them where they're deepest.

My 2018 1.4Tsi needed new rear discs and pads at 27K due to rust, scoring.. Otherwise only issue was brake pad rattle fixed under warranty by shims being fitted. Known issue.

Looks fabulous .

I use all-season tyres so replace them when they are down to 4mm of tread depth remaining.

I'll be honest, the black roof completes the look on these mk2 fabias, especially since the roof 'wraps' around to just on top of the doors. Wonder if its possible to get a metallic black wrap? My cars roof is a metallic black to match the Monte Carlo trim, really pops in the daytime. Contrasts well with the white of the rest of the car.

Firstly hello and welcome to the forum. The Fabia vRS has slightly lowered 'sports' suspension compared to a normal one, changing the suspension to a normal Diesel fabias suspension will raise it a little. What wheels and tyres are on it? Going for a higher profile tyre would marginally lift the car higher. Would a previous owner have put lowering springs on it? If they had then you'd want to put some original springs back in to raise it. What part of the car is too low? It could be that the undertray is not sitting right and is dragging along some rougher parts of the road. I know of a car locally that kept bottoming out on our dirt roads and it turned out that the previous owner had fastened the undertray to the car with zipties! Good luck with the car, from my experience with my own mk1 (non vrs) they can absolutely tolerate rougher roads, my car put up with me constantly thrashing it through fields and its still going. These cars are built tough even though they might not look it on first glance.

Developed a fault with xenon headlights, orange exclamation with something about steerable headlights. Headlights not doing their usual dance but pointing at the ground a few feet in front of the car. Just as well it's nearly summer! Hmmm, out with the VCDS. Headlight module reporting "databus error", not helpful! So one thinks-bubble later, I had a look at the suspension module and sure enough "front nearside suspension level sensor" broken. This sensor is of course used to vertically adjust the headlights according to load in the car etc. I had a good fiddle with the connector but to no avail, as soon as I cleared the fault code it popped up again. So on to ebay, sourced a new sensor for £55 and it arrived today. Off with the wheel, popped the connector off, removed one nut and one bolt holding the old sensor on. Despite these being located in the wheel bay area and the car now being 5 years old, both came off amazingly easily! New sensor installed, connector popped back on, fault codes cleared and good to go. I wonder how much all that would have cost at a dealer?

Haha.. maybe in 2030 that will work. Since english is not my native, I had to add “special” tags to the names in phonebook I usually call. So when I say “call Prometheus” I know the car will call “Turcsányi Lajos” (the real name in my country) 😅

And then they charge you. Thanks, AG Falco

Finally got round to fitting the S3 front brakes and wow what a difference they make. I was a little concerned if they would fit or not, but can confirm they fit under 17 inch zenith with 5mm to spare.

Hey!! soo I received my H&R springs and Eibach spacers (10mm/15mm) and had them done yesterday 😈😏 My car has DCC and I did all works in Skoda official dealership. I can say I thought the ride will be harsh but to my surprise - it almost did not change!! What i noticed is no more stupid roll-overs on comfort, car handles tight and awsome. As sport car should handle 😈 regarding DCC settings - feeling is that every mode got a lil bit stiffer, like 10-20% tops. For me - its advantage and nice thing 😅 of course springs need to adjust properly over the week but overall - car looks SO MUCH better now 😍 Now waiting for my Maxton kit to arrive 😅 below pics before and after + some extras 😈 Insta @vrsmk4

You could get a solar panel & wire it into the accessory socket if that stays live. Otherwise wire to a permanent 12v supply wire via an in-line fuse. That will keep the battery fully charged.

. I realise I was getting a bit dog-eared, but now I feel positively decrepit. I thought this was the old-fashioned way. .